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Dude, haven't you heard about editing bruh?? Waiting too long for the actual issue at hand. But informative

I no this a old video but there a easy fix for this it's called a snubber it's a brass fitting it connects to the pump then the pressure switch line . It basically goes in line. The snubber slow down the water so there no surge of water going to the switch . 💯🫡 iv installed and repaired pumps for a little over 20y

Thank you!! Very detailed! This was helpful!

Sweet I'm pretty sure this is my problem, and wanted to know if I could just remove this. Thanks this video helped.

U can lift the plastic up underneath the compressor and slide it out the front of the passenger tire

Thanks you for this video! Very helpful!

Where the connection point is off the pump housing is right at the volute for the pump. The turbulence generated there will never be a good pressure reading. Moving it farther away from that position will solve.

I have been looking into this and it would appear if the RED, positive, side was covered that it would prevent the battery from shorting out. Especially if some metal comes in contact with the either post while both are connected it could be dangerous. I am all for remvoing both battery covers. GM laid a BIG GOOSE EGG when them made the covers for the side posts battery terminal cables. I have been helping a friend with their 1999 Buick LeSabre and it has been a nightmare. Appears a lot of costly repairs could have been avoided by first checking out the battery side posts and cables (ALSO make sure the battery is secure with a retainer or something to secure it).

Video fine, but a lot of talking. Always disconnect power before unplugging computer.

Same exact car, thanks.

actually fucking useless!

I’m going to try to replace my 2001 century radiator,thanks for posting this because I wasn’t aware of Gm tool needed,and it looks like it’s going to be more difficult than I expected.But thanks again for explaining how you did yours

Why did you skip the parts after you removed the lower right bolt with the universal swivel? This would of been a perfect video but because of that. We are left to figure it out the hard way. Although it was good up to that point.

Old video but we 155’s are still out there… very dependable units. Thank you!

Suggestion: Take a Dramamine tablet 15 minutes before watching video.

Thanks for the great video! Is that ground wire not connected?

Thank you!

THANKS!! Your videos helped a lot.

You did saw how to take it off so

I found your video very informative. Can you show or explain to me how to remove high pressure line from evaporator with out removing power brake booster. Any help will be appreciated. I am wanting to replace orifice tube and hoping that I dont have to remove brake lines and booster.

You didn’t have any issues with it sparking due to the terminals touching the metal on the battery??

Pressure switch should be within 3' of the pressure tank. Perfect

Another observation...in Part 1 the thick, insulated electrical cables going to the computer in the air box are routed under the upper radiator hose. In Part 6 you have routed them over the hose. Not sure if there is any advantage to either.

My 98 had a lower bracket on the radiator itsself rather than those two plastic clips. Seamed like a better system to support the fans.

Just did this job. I bought the disconnect tool but the hard hydraulic line in my '98 Century was bent too close to the fitting to work. I had better luck (still a challenge, especially on lower connection) with a tiny flathead screwdriver.

Thanks, man! My grandson's 2000 Jimmy has the same problem and I suspected exactly what you found. I am going to get some new cables and cut that stupid piece of plastic off just like you did!

Wow thank you for this video... That was the exact issue I had to address for my truck to start again.

I like the way he showed how to remove the AC compressor

Thanks for the great info work for me:)

I definitely think this is my problem. Been having “ignition switch” problems for a while now. Replaced the ignition switch and and still having trouble starting… until I shake my battery😂

Thank you, thank you, thank you! I will bake cookies in your honor sir!!!!

It looks like the pressure tank is too far from the pump. Goulds in their video recommend 3-4 feet at most. I had terrible chatter while the pump was trying to turn on until I moved the pressure tank closer to the pump.

Looks like a royal headache.. why is the petcock completely inaccessible? How did you get the engine brackets back in place? I think I have a gasket leak, sludge in my radiator.. wanted to replace and flush clean but this might be beyond my capabilities.

Thank you! This helped a bunch.

You don’t need a special tool to remove the tranny lines. You don’t need to support the engine and you don’t need to remove the air box. Time saved.

Thanks for the tip with the mirror panel. Definitely saved me from breaking anything. Btw I also have the issue with the locking mechanism after replacing the latch.

Very thorough my friend thank you so much you took the time for all the little odds and ends and that's what really counts cheers a really good video you need to make more you got a knack for it

Well I rounded the bolts off in my early wrenching days so I think a replacement is in order anyways, plus I can see actual corrosion on the other side of the terminal. Hopefully replacing the wires is all I need now.

normal 5 way Tee would have done the job.. attaching the pressure switch "directly" to the pump (for electrical connection) may cause the problem to come back with a vengeance. good luck

why did you not show removing the liquid line cond where orfus tube goes??>>

Did you get electrical shock when you install them with out the rubber covers

Thank you buddy...I got the same car ...so you didn't have to remove the brake booster to remove the ac lines ...I like your method better 100%

Do you need to put the orange rubber back on the computer???

Do you the need to put the orange rubber things back on there??????

My fan stop working but it was working b4 we remove it

Was there a drain plug on the radiator?

Hey, I just wanted to give you a big thanks for your videos. Im not exactly a car guy, but you managed to show me enough content here where I swapped my radiator out and hit the street again within 5 hours. Highly highly appreciated. Saved me damn near 350$. I do want to mention one thing about the trans lock tool. I used an eyeglass screwdriver to take out the hairpins. Graned, I did look around for the tool in the video. But nobody carries it anymore. So if anyone is looking for an alternative, a very small flathead will get the job done. Again, thanks a ton for your time here. It saved me a lot of stress and money.

I'll try this out. Thank you.

Where is the drainage point

Good stuff. Worked for me too.