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I admire your level of tenacity and patience, as this does not look an task to complete.

Hi Paul- Its great to see trains running and well done for getting there with all the trauma. Cheers Kev

.Well done for completing the Figure of Eight track to a stage where a train or trains can finally run. Now you can sit back and enjoy what has been done. Martin. (Thailand) Yorkdale LNER Preservation Railway.

Now that well worth the anguish and sleep deprivation to be able play trains again. So nice but there was face of glee. Just love what you've achieved.

Considering all the trauma and your love/hate relationship with laying the track, you made this a very entertaining video to watch. Loved the little announcement inserts, very funny. Well done for keeping your composure and not throwing all your dollies out the pram, lol. So happy to see the trains running, well done Paul for your dedication to it all 🎉 x

Well done, Paul. Great achievement, getting the first trains running all the way round and round. On rail joiners, I'm just starting a tiny TT shelf layout (to see if I like the gauge and can manage to work in it), and the rail joiners for the Peco code 55 rail are flipping tiny ... and sharp... In the hope of reducing any further swearing and rail joiner inflicted wounds, I've ordered from Westhill Wagon Works, a little thingie that's supposed to make the job easier. If they work, they could be useful for you too, as I think they do them in different gauges.

Regarding the point with the broken/ missing frog wire solder a wire in the V it will work the same if you are using insulting joiners

Thanks for the video, a very good one of yours and I'm very happy you succeeded running the first trains all around. Well done!

Another great video with the ups and downs off model railways you have so much patience I take my hat off to you 👍

Hi Paul, would love to have been a fly on the wall when you had your light bulb moment with those points....frustrating....blue air!!...but great result

I have always had trouble with insulated rail joiners. What i found to do is cut the joiner in half ( length). on the switch ( points) side. Trust me it works.

Have to sort your editing out... you keep cutting off when your talking. Finish your sentence. At least we will know what your talking about

Now it's looking good

Hi Paul. Rail joiners: West Hill Wagon Works makes something called Rail Joiner Mate that aims to make connecting track that much easier. How well it works with nylon rail joiners I don't know.

Brilliant video warts and all this hobby makes sure all your senses and skills are tested that is why it's more than just 'playing trains' !!!

Following all your videos, you finally made it, with trains running.......Well done! You have struggled up the gradient...... absolutely awesome layout.

Congratulations Paul on your persistence with the plastic fishplates and now that trains are running you must be extremely chuffed, pardon the pun 😂

Yay, the last few shots before the running session make it all worth while. I was about to say about frog wires, then you said it, yay. When you discussed plastic fishplates. Couldn’t help hear the words of ‘Obi-wan Kenfishplateby’ “Patience my young padawan,” lol. So glad trains are running Paul, a moment worth waiting for. Good job!

Wow, what very remorseful music track, I was welling up watching you😢😅. Nice though. Looks a mighty complex railroad layout!

Wow paul well done there is a lot done there ,so you can stop running your trains up and down a length of track on the bench and actually use the layout. lol.i hate insulated fish plates too especially on double slips. Loved the running session it's been a long time coming.

When we make school boy errors it is so frustrating, but when you resolve them it makes you feel great. Well done for solving your `shorting`, a real delight to see trains running on New Sandling Junction and keep them coming. Regards and best wishes Barry.😁👍

Must feel great to have trains running around the whole layout! Perseverance for the win!

gret to see you put more track down thanks lee

So what’s the cost of it Paul?

That came out quite nice! I've had my eye on the Creality for some time, no idea where I'd put it at the moment though, lol

LOOK OUT!! There's 'Nids behind you!!

Interesting, I've not seen that rust product before. I use the Dirty Down Rust effects, they have a mold and verdigris as well

Hi Paul, being as you are an Artist, I am surprised that you are using hobby products when the equivalent artist product would be better value for money, and in most instances a better product overall. Liquid Latex rather than Maskol, Hard Pastels for Weathering Powders, Liquitex Matt Medium, that sort of thing

As this is 4 years old I expect you may have already come across Boomer Diorama, He started a new layout, River Road, at about the same time as this. Boomer's Scenic and Weathering tutorials are second to none. I've been making, building and painting models for nearly 50 years and I still learnt loads of things from them. I've been binging his River Road Vlogs the last couple of months, and just watched the last one yesterday. I only meant to watch the scenery videos, I'm a wargaming modeller, don't even have a train in the house! 🤣🤣

You can glue the coal in with dilute matt medium as well

You don't remove the bodies from the running gear then? I'd have thought the airbrushing would have maybe gummed them up a bit, obviously not though. Another great video

I guess it's because I stopped using them 30+ years ago, but I'm still a little surprised when someone says they are using Humbrol Enamels. Anyway, nicely done! For water effects I prefer the multitude of Acrylic mediums that are available. Liquitex, and Golden have a good selection. They are non toxic and non smelly, lol Golden GAC500 is good for still or slow water, good for drips maybe too, can always be thinned with water. I guess you already know that if you are painting on canvas as well

Hiya, I'm just getting "model rail curios" lol. I started watching Boomer Diorama for his scenery tutorials, with the idea to improve my diorama's and gaming bases, then began to slip down the rabbit hole. Sandling Junction? Near Maidstone? I live in Gillingham

Looks great.

Good stuff, Paul. Always good when we see a bit of Paul Apps the Artist on the Sandling channel. There's so much scope for cross fertilisation from artists to model railways (though probably not as much the other way!) Worth remembering that the real world (whether the world world or the platform down your local station) is never perfect either, and there's probably a bloke in a hi-viz jacket looking at his work on a platform going "I could have done that better," though he's more likely to say "nah, sod it, I'm off to the pub. It's good enough."

Loving this series, Paul! It is great to see you working your artistic magic on your diorama board. I think I am pretty good at weathering but you never stop learning with this wonderful hobby of ours. As can be seen from your other channel, you are a gifted artist - I wish I could bring a scene to life from an image in my mind, but we don’t all have the same skills, do we?! I think perhaps you are being overly modest when it comes to describing your abilities, but such modesty should be applauded. Looking forward to seeing the diorama progress. You are inspiring me to consider a small shunting diorama of my own! Keep up the good work! Best wishes from Wirral.

Thank you for demonstrating the fine level of detail level of detail shown here. I look forward to seeing the layout as you progress.

You are an artist well we know you are but in this series it shows. More like this please.

good vid nice work thanks lee

Have a look at DCC Concepts power point alignment dowels. They might help with aligning your liftout bridge and also with powering it.

Good on you What a great shot you did walking through

Hi Paul. Lovely to see your new layout coming along so well. Regarding securing the lift out I would echo what man others have said which is to use Brass Dowels. I have used them before quite a number of times as my initial layout was totally modular in it was essential that every board line up perfectly when reassembled. Also although I know you are not keen on Clamps but I plan on using some small adjustable toggle clamps to secure them down hidden underneath the layout. Still whatever you decide, keep on with it and happy modelling 😁

Alignment dowels plus a couple of mini magnets each end could well sort it

A simple alignment set up would be to use two pairs of baseboafd alignment dowels as supplied by Station Road Baseboards (Not Julian) supplied via the eBay at a cost of £2.40 + £1.80 postage for 4 pairs, I would place two pairs, fitting into the surport section on the horizontal, being you say, you, cut the track a little too close to the board edge. The other two pairs fitted in the verticle at the opposite end, thus ensuring positive alignment each and every time. Then to stop any movement of lift untill intended, fit a couple of neodendium magnets also into the end where the dowels are inserted in the verticl. I have used the said items on my modular built layout, and fully recommend them, I dont have any affiliation with the gentleman other than, that. of a satisfied customer, Glenn,

Hi Paul, you could put magnets on the under side and then magnets in the ends to make sure they line up at each end. <Anita>

Hi Paul, I think the easiest solution for securing the bridge would be to insert a 7mm dowel on each side of the tracks at each end of the bridge. Drill 2 holes each end through the bridge into the timber ledge to a depth of about 18mm after clamping the bridge. Glue the dowels into the bridge from the top then trim and sand any protrusion on the top. this will secure the bridge so it doesn't have any side movement then fix a cupboard spring lock clasp underneath at each end which will stop any up and down movement. Once done which should be a very simple procedure you will only need to put your hand underneath the bridge to release the clasp. Hope this suggestion is useful, regards Alan

Re the droppers, I would get some red & black heat shrink tubing and effectively re colour the droppers to the correct colour, i.e. red heat shrink on the offending black droppers and black heat shrink on the offending red droppers. Re your lift off section, you could use some neodymium magnets on the underside of the lift off section to hold it down and DCC Concepts do a locating dowel kit that can de used to ensure the rails align correctly. I think it also can pass track power through the dowel pins

I see those two diesels in the storage area will soon be trundling through Kent, pulling cement trains up to Rugby in the Midlands.

Don't get the black to the back because it changes when going round a curve unless you turn with it , In my opinion its a stupid way to explain it , Maybe I'm wrong

Ideally you want the registration and clamp system working before laying the track so you can ensure the track aligns correctly. A system of dowels/holes and clamp/clips or bolts/wingnuts should work. Or bolts that you might use on a door. Edit: search for hook lock clip.