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Thanks for sharing! I hate that you have to do a chest compression on the citadel paint pots to get them to close all the way. I've been using pro acryl more and more as our GW paints get used up.

@emperorshobby Exactly. I used to spend ages clearing out the inside of the rims with a screwdriver to get them shut as well... definitely not hobbytime well spent.🥴

It is really hard to not print all of them.

Appreciate the sub! Let us know how it goes when you try them.

Thanks for watching! Next week we'll be working on the Shattered Plains, a project we started a year ago but never finished. We'll talk about D&D probably the week after.

Glad you liked it!

Thanks! We'll show updates as we go

@emperorshobby what other topics are you planning on talking about in coming weeks?

@@HungryBarbarian37 Episode 3 will be about terrain. We want to sort out the existing terrain for wargaming and see what needs to be added. We have a bunch of half printed projects plus chat about making more.

Oh?

Dremel is a good idea. Just purchased a battery powered one a month ago for cleaning 3d prints.

Glad you like it!

Appreciate the feedback and the sub! Glad you found the information useful, ask questions if you have them.

Going to try for weekly, but schedules and what not might get in the way.

No, not yet. We are working on a video of a huge city scene we did that is playable. Not a battle board, sounds like a fun idea!

Is the film tearing from the vat or are there holes in it from material pressing through? Without more deals here are somethings to check and consider: 1. It is actually recommended to do a tank clean after every print using the clean function. I personally don't do this but it might be a good idea to try to be safe. 2. Make sure the print plate isn't damaged (unlikely but with a check 3. When you replace the release film how are you putting the screws in? If tearing is happening it could be due to the order you are putting the screws in i.e. just going clock wise verse the alternating method. 4. Have you recalibrated the print plate? If there is to much distance it could cause extra stress on the film 5. How well are your models supported? Pre supported models aren't always good. If they are supported poorly bits can pull off and wear on the film. 6. Check your exposure settings, it is possible you are over exposing the material making it to hard. It should be pliable just a bit but still snap back to its shape. You can tell by scratching the prints (before curing) with your finger nail if material comes off you are good, if non at all you might be over exposing during printing. 7. Check your release settings, if tearing this could be another cause. If you pull away to quickly especially on the first few layers it is possible you tear the film. If you are using after market film the settings could be different than Phrozen's release film. Let us know and we can dive in deeper!

@@emperorshobby well i get holes generally and scracthes i m New with resim printing but after i get the print ör fail the print it really become too hard to peel the resim from the film and what do you suggest about m7 or MS 5 pro or anyqubic photon M3 Max im really very confused about deciding

If I was buying the M7 Pro is the way to go. Has a large build plate and and the auto resin refill is an awesome feature. A 14k resolution is nice as well. The M5 is fine for the money if you have less to spend. The M3 looks ok but is way more expensive with less features and less resolution. Concerning peeling the resin on a fail make sure you do a clean which makes it all 1 sheet. If you have to dump the used resin back into the bottle (using a funnel with a filter) then get the sheet off. Print some of those print pull tools, those will help you considerably. I use had problem getting failed prints off the smaller printers cause of screen size compared to the vat size and used that tool.

@@emperorshobby tyvm for your help so ilk go for m7 then and i can barely afford above 900$ if its change the idea pls hit me

Glad you like them!

Worth mentioning again!

True, there is some misinformation here. Normal use won't likely cause the issue. The caution should be using these for an extended period of time where your fingers feel numb and or tingley after. I've experienced this after mixing a half dozen or so paints in a row for a bigger painting session.

@@emperorshobby you only mix lab samples for 5 seconds or so, it's mostly watery fluids with something suspended in it like cells or DNA not thick paint

Thanks! What till you see the finished product!

Thanks! Hoping to release a detailed video in the next month :) Was a fun project to plan out and do.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks for the reply and the pending link up! We've got a huge project coming up where we use this paint handle. Basically a 4ft x 6ft size display board with about 80 models on it. The is to drop it on September 20th the morning of the tournament. We'll have plenty of teasers and previous prior though.

Thanks for watching! Glad you found the video helpful! Good luck with the jigsaw mixer.

Thanks for feedback. We talk about that and flute end at the 9:24 minute mark.

​@@emperorshobbyHahaha! I should have watched the whole video before commenting

@@InvisibleAvenger no worries!

Glad we can entertain you, that is the goal :)

Thanks for the recommendation. How do they hold on the model so we don't have to repaint the part it is attached to?

Here is the link if others are looking: www.lethalshadows.com/product-page/paint-scepter it is $80 and only holds 1 model at a time.

@emperorshobby it is great. And no, I don't work for them nor sponsored by them either.

@@meatbyproducts Putting it on the wish list to try. Thanks for the recommendation.

Subbed. Looks like you care about painting properly.

@@meatbyproducts Thanks!

No worries we got you! We just opened up the shipping to the UK reach out if you have problems.

Good suggestion! We'll give it a whirl.

Update: We tried a handful of washers from the hardware store today and they didn't perform nearly as well as the magnet. In some cases the model spun around while attempting to paint with it. Most washers have plating, so my guess is it is interfering.

The part was cut from the video but one our requirements was to remove the model from the base so we can do the base separately. Really though if you magnetize the base there is no reason you couldn't use the handle for that as well. I do like your idea for the plastic shot glass. Could work. Our Tau diorama video we do a similar thing separating the model from the base to speed up basing and make it consistent with the display board.

Guess that is the same concept of a D3 where you roll a D6 and 1 or 2 is a 1, 3 or 4 is a 2, and 5 or 6 is a 3. You can extend the concept to D12 and D6s. But like D6s, a D10 is common enough roll you don't want people thinking about the math. We play a lot of Warhammer 40k. The less calculations the better when you are rolling a 100+ times a game.

Thanks Mini!

Glad you like them!