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Diesel Duck 48 Io Build
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Добавлен 20 апр 2023
This channel is a running video blog of my home build of a Diesel Duck 48. I started the boat in November of 2020 but didn't start uploading videos until April of 2023. Once I get caught up, I'll post more or less real time updates. These videos for the most part are a run and gun type shooting style, rarely am I in front of the camera, I usually just narrate while I move the camera to the subject at hand.
This is the original wood version of the Diesel Duck 48. Built entirely from the plans in George Buehler's book, "Backyard Boat Building". The boat should come in at just over 50,000 pounds, 48' long on deck and a beam of 14'2". The boat will be powered by an 85 Hp Beta Marine diesel engine. Fuel capacity will be just under 1,400 gallons for a range of 3,000+ miles.
Join me on my journey, first of building the boat on the plains of Iowa, then getting her launched and then setting a course for distant horizons.
Cheers,
Scott Fintel
This is the original wood version of the Diesel Duck 48. Built entirely from the plans in George Buehler's book, "Backyard Boat Building". The boat should come in at just over 50,000 pounds, 48' long on deck and a beam of 14'2". The boat will be powered by an 85 Hp Beta Marine diesel engine. Fuel capacity will be just under 1,400 gallons for a range of 3,000+ miles.
Join me on my journey, first of building the boat on the plains of Iowa, then getting her launched and then setting a course for distant horizons.
Cheers,
Scott Fintel
More Glasswork on the Bow - Engine Room Overhead Insulation
As I finish the port side bow glass work I start the starboard side glassing. I also start insulating the engine room overhead with fiberglass sound insulation and acoustic tile.
Просмотров: 162
Видео
Raw Water Intake - Sea Strainer Mounting
Просмотров 177День назад
A really hot and humid week mostly shut down boat work. I did manage to get the skin fitting hole drilled and started working on a mount for the sea strainer. Before the humidity set in I did get a little more fiberglass work done as well.
Stuffing Box Installed - Cradle Boat Supports - Raw Water Intake
Просмотров 27214 дней назад
The stuffing box is finally, permanently installed. I get all the new boat supports installed and I get ready to install the through hull for the sea strainer.
Boat Leveling - Glass Work on the Bow - Stuffing Box Work
Просмотров 36821 день назад
We finally got the boat leveled this week, it was about 1.2 degrees off from level back when we lowered the boat to the cradle. I continue work on glassing the lower bow section and try to decide how to get the stuffing box perfectly true to the shaft.
First Fit of the Shaft and Prop - Glassing the Bow
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.Месяц назад
The aft bearing housing gets installed and the first test fit of the shaft is done. Glassing of the keel to hull joint continues and the bow section of the hull gets the first layers of 1708 glass.
Plywood on Hull Done! - Starting the Keel to Hull Joint
Просмотров 462Месяц назад
Finally after about 9 months the plywood is on the hull, the boat would float at this point so that's a really good feeling. Now I'm starting on the keel to hull joint, then it will be on to the other plywood seams on the hull.
Keel to Hull Joint Test - Plywood Almost Done - Considering a Bow Thruster
Просмотров 495Месяц назад
As the plywood on the hull nears completion I ponder where to locate a bow thruster. I do a test run on a short length of the hull to keel joint. A couple of short clips on making glass cloth installation easier.
Prepping for Shaft Installation - Starting Last Row of Plywood on the Hull
Просмотров 352Месяц назад
Everything is now in place to get the bearing housings installed for prop shaft installation. I also get started on the last row of plywood planking on the hull.
Home Built 20' Cabin Cruiser Start to Finish in 3 Minutes
Просмотров 20 тыс.Месяц назад
This is a 20' Glen L designed cabin skiff I built in my garage in 2017. I started out with a used 60 HP outboard, the next year I bought a new 90 HP Yamaha for it. I started the boat in February and splashed the first time in June, I spent the next year finishing the interior and adding all the little extras.
Getting Shaft Log Ready for Bearing - More Plywood on Deck and Hull
Просмотров 239Месяц назад
I get the aft end of the shaft log machined to receive the aft shaft bearing housing. More plywood goes on the pilot house deck and the hull.
Bottom and Deck Plywood Continue - Starting to Acquire Electronics
Просмотров 2752 месяца назад
More plywood goes on the hull bottom as well as deck plywood over the engine room. I pick up a Garmin MFD to use as an extra display and we begin work on the side plywood for taping and fairing the seams.
Fighting a Flooded Boat Shop While Work Continues
Просмотров 1672 месяца назад
7 inches or rain was more than the boat shop could handle, so this past week I had to deal with drying out the shop as work on the plywood planking and deck plywood continues.
Starting the Plywood Deck - Bottom Plywood Continues
Просмотров 4802 месяца назад
I was low on 10 ounce glass cloth so I started the plywood deck at the pilot house area. With warmer temperatures curing the epoxy faster I did manage to get 2 pieces of plywood on the hull as well.
Side Plywood Done - Building Ventilation - Getting Small Boat Ready for Season
Просмотров 2302 месяца назад
I finished both forward and aft pieces of plywood on the side and now start work on the final area of plywood on the port bottom. I install solar ventilation in the building roof and get my small boat ready for the water.
Quick Weekly Update
Просмотров 1113 месяца назад
This one's short and sweet as I close in on finishing the port side plywood.
First Exhaust Port Ready - Raised Sheer Trimming and Plywood Goes On
Просмотров 2043 месяца назад
First Exhaust Port Ready - Raised Sheer Trimming and Plywood Goes On
Sea Strainer Location? - Exhaust Port - More Plywood on the Hull
Просмотров 2213 месяца назад
Sea Strainer Location? - Exhaust Port - More Plywood on the Hull
Buying Solar Panels and Charge Controllers - Plywood Continues
Просмотров 1743 месяца назад
Buying Solar Panels and Charge Controllers - Plywood Continues
Starting A Fiberglass Exhaust Port - Plywood Continues
Просмотров 2573 месяца назад
Starting A Fiberglass Exhaust Port - Plywood Continues
North Sea Exhaust System - Final Thoughts and Design Considerations
Просмотров 2984 месяца назад
North Sea Exhaust System - Final Thoughts and Design Considerations
Bilge Painting - Portholes Arrive - More Plywood
Просмотров 2744 месяца назад
Bilge Painting - Portholes Arrive - More Plywood
First Exhaust Tube Made - Sheer Trimming - More Plywood
Просмотров 4154 месяца назад
First Exhaust Tube Made - Sheer Trimming - More Plywood
More Epoxy Issues as Plywood Continues - Port Side Raised Sheer Trimming Begins
Просмотров 7204 месяца назад
More Epoxy Issues as Plywood Continues - Port Side Raised Sheer Trimming Begins
Port Side Plywood Starts - Setting Up to Make Fiberglass Exhaust Tubes
Просмотров 4675 месяцев назад
Port Side Plywood Starts - Setting Up to Make Fiberglass Exhaust Tubes
Glassing Table Built - Prepping for Port Side Plywood
Просмотров 2215 месяцев назад
Glassing Table Built - Prepping for Port Side Plywood
Shop Cleaning - Getting Ready for Port Side Plywood
Просмотров 1795 месяцев назад
Shop Cleaning - Getting Ready for Port Side Plywood
6 March 2024: Starboard Plywood Nears Completion - Thoughts on Composting Head
Просмотров 2396 месяцев назад
6 March 2024: Starboard Plywood Nears Completion - Thoughts on Composting Head
More Plywood on Hull - Saloon Cabinet
Просмотров 1886 месяцев назад
More Plywood on Hull - Saloon Cabinet
Plywood Continues - Supporting the Boat - Saloon Cabinet Start
Просмотров 2906 месяцев назад
Plywood Continues - Supporting the Boat - Saloon Cabinet Start
It's looking good and your steady progress is exciting!
Thanks, not sure about the exciting part, but certainly progress.
Sea strainer post looks pretty solid to me. If there ends up being too much vibration, I'm certain you'd be able to shoehorn in some rubber baby buggie bumpers somewhere.
I think too it'll be fine. I can always add more support.
Wicked cool build, if it were me, less cabin more cockpit. But to each his own
Looking for a place out of the sun during the day and away from the flying insects at night. Yeah, everyone has their priorities.
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn didnt mean to sound like a critique, great work all around👍🏻
13:25 Ouch, thankfully it wasn't anything worse than that. I've been using knee pads (I think they have a little bit of gel inside them in addition to foam) in my work pants for a couple of years now. Tripped and banged my knees rather hard on to a concrete floor one afternoon, guess what I went to buy the next day! They probably wouldn't have helped much but would've been something at least. Since then it's been pretty nice to have them when I'm working down on my knees. And of course I haven't tripped like that since then.
Unfortunately a project like this takes a blood offering now and then...
Good job on the stuffing box, certainly lined well now. Regarding the waveyness on the chine, I would fill and sand back to get correct as once you go through the layers of the ply you start to lose the strength of the ply etc. Cheers Ian
Yeah, that's the plan. Or, just leave it alone...
Dog is ecstatic with the quick progress being made , how much did those metal things cost the prop, drive shaft and the two forged golden things whatever they are called👌👍 thinking about doing my own boat diesel duck is ideal but immense shed needed.
The shaft, prop and two bronze housings (you'd think they were actual gold) was $11 or $12,000. The Aquadrive was another $5,000. So $16 or $17,000 running gear behind the transmission. Could have been done a lot cheaper if you wanted to save money.
Stuffing box looks pretty good for now, you should probably consider doing final alignment once it's in the water a few days because the hull is supported differently in water and will probably shift a tiny bit.
Yes, but it won't be the stuffing box that gets adjusted. With the Aqua Drive and thrust bearing, it would be the thrust bearing that gets adjusted. The thrust bearing also uses rubber mounts, so it may take just a little bit of shifting. Between the thrust bearing and the engine are the cv joints, so any change in angle there is fine.
I assume those counter sinks probably paid for themselves relatively quickly. Sure one could have jerry-rigged some hole saw contraption and then go in with a chisel to knock out the center and faff about for a while. Depends how much one values their time.
I was using a Forstner bit after gluing a dowel into the drilled out hole. So yes, much time saved and a much nicer counter sunk hole.
It would be nice if you would considering adding all the build videos to a single playlist for easier viewing. Looking forward to catching up with the build.
Yeah, all of the videos on this channel are build videos, so no sorting really needed. They are chronological, just click "videos" at the top of the page under the banner and they all show up newest to oldest, click "oldest" if you want to sort them with oldest at the top of the page. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn Thank you for replying. I've been enjoying seeing your progress and getting a glimpse of your thought process and problem solving etc. And I'm really grateful for the style of videos you decided to create. Also just to clarify what I meant, if your videos were in a playlist and one was watching them through the playlist, then the next video would autoplay and one wouldn't need to repeatedly go back to your videos page to select the next video to watch. Not useful or really needed for people who are already following you live but it's a nice convenience for the people who want to go through your backlog. Unfortunately I don't think RUclips has a method to dump all your videos to a playlist with a single click. But if you go to your RUclips Studio page and then the Content tab you could do it one page (50 videos) at a time. There's a select all box next to the word video at the top of your list of videos. (Though don't be tempted to click the select all text that shows up after selecting all videos on the page you're on, it unfortunately doesn't allow you add all videos to the playlist..) If you end up creating a playlist, you can choose the default order which in this case would be date published (oldest) and when you add videos to the playlist you don't need to worry about having to manually sort them even though you're adding them one page at a time. First video will be the first published, second will be the second and so on.
OK, I see what you're getting at. Yeah, not sure how many people watch numerous videos back to back. I'd think they'd get tired of hearing me talk before tiring of the back button... But yeah, if I get a wild hare at some point I'll see if I can do that. Thanks!
I’m hoping you can tell me what kind of wood are you using for this boat?
Pretty much all the structural components are Douglas Fir; Keel, frames, floor timbers, planking and deck beams, all Douglas Fir.
Hi, You have answered your own question, The stuffing box needs to be spot on with the shaft so I was going to suggest the thickened epoxy and bed the stuffing box in that. Maybe you shoud do the same with the stern bearing. If the shaft doesn't run true you will chop bearings out etc. The close tolerance of the gland sleeve and bore is to prevent the packing material extruding out when clamped down so I suggest don't modify it. My marine trade experince with these types of applications tells me that. I have also built boats so I understand what its about. Cheers Ian. New Zealand
Thanks so much for the input Ian! Nice to hear from someone with experience with this type of installation. The aft bearing is pretty much perfect, so it's fine. But yes, I think the epoxy is the only way I'm going to get perfect alignment on the stuffing box. No I wasn't going to machine the sleeve down, a lot of my videos end up with me just thinking aloud... Again, thanks for the input. Cheers, Scott.
Man thats a lot of work, looks great.
Yeah it is! Thanks!
Looks level from here.
You couldn't tell it from inside the boat either...
Nice, but it’s no Arabella
look forward to the fuel system and electrics and oh yeah the radar what do you think your E.T.A is on this project august 2026 ?
I think it would be possible to move it to water next Fall, but that would be rushing and pushing a bit too hard. I hope to have it out of the shed next Spring/Summer, build the pilot house before winter sets in, then work on interior through the winter. So yes, 2026 summer is reasonable I think.
Great progress.
Little jobs are starting to add up. Thanks!
I've used magnets wrapped in plastic before to hold up cloth. They were just light duty fridge magnets dealing with lighter and small cloth. But I wonder if some stronger magnets would hold against those screw heads.
I've got some powerful magnets, I'll give them a try on the other side. Thanks!
Can't watch with sound....geezuz that's bad!
Seems to be a love/hate deal with the music...
You change the pictures to the beat? W.T.F. I almost got epilepsy. I had to stop the video halfway.
Turn the music off...
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn NO, YOU TURN THE MUSIC OFF AND SLOW THE PHOTOS DOWN
I have a bow and stern thruster on my 48’ 60k lb trawler. Makes it a dream to dock in a tight marina. Definitely go with a bow thruster. Our bow thruster is a Wesmar. Our stern is a C-marine. They no longer support US market. Our stern is external on the stern. I’ve seen other single engine trawlers with a stern thruster mounted on through the keel above the driveshaft. Looks like you might have room for that too. Definitely get them in before you finish glass work. We just finished 70+ locks on the Erie Canal and Trent Severn waterways. Have control of both the bow and stern with the thrusters made it very easy. If you plan on single hand boating seriously consider both now.
I ordered the thruster tunnel today, so yes I decided for sure to put in a bow thruster. Stern would be nice but not so easy to install in my case.
Great achievement
Thanks so much!
cat speak stop messing around with that stupid boat and pay more attention to me, like to watch your progress so far theres only you, six point woodworks and bill england on youtube that i have found doing diesel ducks certainly is a whole bunch of wood involved. nice boat huge huge project many years.
That cat in the video is called Scratch, when he was a kitten he got caught up in a tree. 2 AM and all I hear is this cat outside crying. So I grabbed a light and went out to see what was up. There he was in the tree, I was reaching up for him and he just launched out the tree at me, just caught my left arm and left huge, deep scratches in my arm. Thus he became Scratch... Thanks for the good words!
Fantastic!
Many thanks!
a 20 footer is NOT a cabin cruiser,it is a bit more than a skiff and not much!
The cabin has pressure water and sink, microwave, refrigerator, table top, seats 3 sleeps one. The pilot house is big enough for a cot to sleep a second. Portable toilet as well. It's great for a couple of people for a long weekend. Maybe call it a pocket cruiser but it is what it is.
Probably go for the easiest placement the difference in turning moment might be really small 1% between 6 and 4 , might be some software out there that can map turning performance for your boat. with various different bow thrusters power output, good tip for the glass ,hang for sides and pre glass for underneath , trying to apply afterwards would be tough job (nightmare) visions of rolls peeling off and falling on you
Only real downside to moving it back would be a loss of storage space and it would require a wider tunnel. A little late to change how I'm doing the glass now, I'm on my last piece of plywood, I'll have if figured out for my next build...
I installed an Ivecco 6cyl 135hp, ZF63 2.78:1 transmission with a pto take off for my hydraulic windlass and steering. I have a 28L16 3 blade prop. I made the wooden rudder but honestly if I had a do over I might have done it in steel and maybe dialed back a bit. The boat doesn’t steer that well in reverse unless you have a few knots going in reverse. It basically goes straight with some Strbrd prop walk. My first year or two wasn’t always pretty boat handling but I’ll say this again- it really is all about understanding how your boat handles and practicing and making little mistakes and then learning from them. Also every boat is different so thinking you can apply what you see one boat doing may not apply to your duck. There’s an adventure coming up 😊
Thanks, all great information and helpful. Did you airfoil profile the rudder or leave it square like George suggested? I assume the prop/gearbox/engine combo moved you at hull speed. Any reason for the left hand prop? Thanks again!
I left the rudder square- it’s a full displacement boat after all. I did shape the keel above and below the aft bearing though. 95% of the time I run the boat at 1800 rpm and average 6.5 kts+ with a clean bottom at about 1.6 gph which is pretty good for a 28 ton boat. You didn’t ask but make your steering bullet proof. Electrically the two most important things I did was put solar on the pilot house and an HOA added to the engine. You might be a little light onHP at 85 but I’ll be interested to hear how that goes.
@@gregoryroscoe3818 George called for 70 - 90 Hp on the 48, I'll be a little irked if the 85 isn't enough... I already have a 175 Amp house alternator in addition to the start battery alternator. I have room for (actually purchased already) 2400 Watts of solar for the pilot house roof. I was looking a a Capilano 1275V helm pump for hydraulic steering.
@@gregoryroscoe3818 I just did the math, at 1.6 gph you're moving the boat using only 27 Hp, that is assuming the standard .06 gph per Hp for a diesel engine. That's not bad at all, of course that's no where near hull speed, but still!
@@scottfintel8935 yeah that’s interesting. I remember looking at graphs and analyses before I went engine shopping. Here’s the engine in the boat running it thought- I have a B rated engine at 135; max rpm is 2800 (naturally aspirated). If I had to push the engine harder for an extended time say clawing my way off a lee shore in a gale ( not good planning on my part but poop happens) . If I run her at 75% of maximum rpm (general practice for long period A equivalent running) that’s about 2100 rpm. That still gives me a little oomph option if I need it but given that I run at 1800 at cruising speed this suggests to me I am neither under powered nor over powered. Can you move the boat with less horsepower? Absolutely! The 135 gives me a cushion should I need to push hard for a bit.
I'm enjoying watching your progress each episode and learning about the choices you need to make.
Thanks, happy to share. It's a true learning experience for me as I go!
In my humble opinion, definitely install a bow thruster. Just yesterday, A bow thruster would have saved me.
Stern as well! lol
Can't quite figure how I'd get one in the stern, might just have to settle for one in the bow.
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn The Jetthusters would work great in a DD made of wood You can sneak in the jets almost anywhere
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dnAfter yesterdays debacle I was looking into what I could do and found JetThrusters, unfortunately they don't don’t make them big enough for Dragonfly. :(
The barn door that this boat has will rotate it in its own length. You just need to get experience with how it handles. Haven’t once wished for a thruster on Tardigrade in 6+ years. But if you want one this is absolutely why we are building our own boats. Just saying I don’t regret not having one.
Why not use bronze lags?
I looked at bronze, seventy some dollars each. The designer called for galvanized steel so that's what I'll use underwater.
Tardigrade here, I’ve got plenty of galvy including my keel bolts but because of galvanic issues I don’t think I would fasten bronze fittings especially below water line with galvanized lags. First choice silicon bronze, second choice stainless.
Yeah, I've got isolation washers to keep the the dissimilar metals apart. We'll see but I still think I'd rather galvanized steel.
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn that’s interesting- when I look at 1/2.bronze lags they are $25-35 depending on length. Not inexpensive but not $70 either. Are you truly willing to truth check the galvanized every couple of years? I don’t have a vested interest in what you use but honestly think the galvanized in bronze is probably not a great option.
@@gregoryroscoe3818 Yeah, OK. So maybe it was the 8" are hard to find and expensive. JD has 7" silicone bronze for about $30 a pop. So you talked me into it, I ordered the 7". Probably long enough but since I'm going into end grain I was hoping for as long as possible. Isolated I still think the galvanized would have been fine...
do you have to put another layer of plywood or does just one do the trick, certainly is an immense project
Just the one layer. The design calls for only the 1.5" planking, so adding 1/2" plywood makes it that much stronger.
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn thanx for that it makes it a lot easier I see following your build just a scary big ship with industrial quantities of timber perhaps i should start first with clcboats.com/shop/boats/boat-plans/pocketship-sailing-pocket-cruiser-kit.html before starting on the big guy
Very Kool !! Thanks for sharing.
Sure, thanks for the good words!
Bravo!! Well done! I was hooked!! I think the music played a part also! 😅 It was intense!
Thanks, yeah the music adds a sense of anticipation!
So I have been watching some of your videos of this DD build. May I make a suggestion? Your videos consist of you talking about what has been done and what you are going to do, but you show little to no actual work being done. Show us the work being done and narrate that, it makes it a lot more interesting. I built the hull of a 44 DD but in steel and had a youtube channel. Not sayiong my channel was very good, not saying that at all. Just saying what I like to watch, and all the channels I like to watch, narrate the actual work being done.
Oh and I have subscribed, I LOVE DDs :D
I only wish I had the time/energy to do that. Most well edited youtube video creators say it takes an hour to edit one minute of video, so 20 hours editing for a 20 minute video. Then it takes about twice as long to do a job when you're setting up cameras and shooting. Being pretty much a one man (and aging man) show, it's just not going to happen. It would be different if I was trying to monetize the channel, or asking for support, or trying to sell ads. I started shooting the videos just as a record of what I'd done for myself, I decided to upload them a couple of years after I started, the idea being I might make some contacts with other builders or power boat cruisers. If someone wants to come and follow me around with a camera, then edit the videos you're more than welcome! In the end it is what it is, a video log of the build...
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn Fair enough
How clever are you and where do you find the time with your trawler project 👍
Ha, yeah, not so clever far too often. But the 20' boat was built some years ago, well before I started the Diesel Duck. Thanks!
Who is the designer?
I assume Glen L. Witt, he was head of the company that bears his name. I suspect he had other designers work with/for him at times, so not really sure.
F***ing AWESOME!
dude. . . i hate to mute the music. . . holy stress panda. . . i played some enya while i watched instead, then for shitsngigglez i watched it again with bill mcclintocks' james brotorhead super kill master piece :) it fit better :)
Sorry it stressed you out!
Use some hot-melt glue to temporarily fasten a straightedge to the hull and you can use that as a guide for whatever tool you want to widen those seams. I second the idea of a small circular saw, just make two passes if one isn't wide enough. It's nice to see continued progress. If the floodwaters get too deep, well, there's your ark.
A circular saw cut/cuts isn't really what I'm looking for. I just want to rough up the surface and recess enough to get a new layer of thickened epoxy in three. I thought about hot gluing a straight edge, but man there's a lot of linear feet to do and that would make it a much, much bigger job. A sander of some sort should work and give me the results I'm looking for. Thanks for the suggestions!
I may have missed something but I'm assuming you want to open up the seams between the sheets of ply for filler? And, I do believe you said you're going to tape over those seams? There's a few ways you can do it. 1. Cut a sanding block with an acute angle. Wrap some heavy grit paper over the pointy end and use that to sand open the gap between the seams. I know it's manual work but the result will likely be more consistant. 2. If you have a compact circular saw, 4" or so just set the blad to about a 1/16" and run it up the seam. 3. You can use a portable hand planer to recess the area on each side of the seam for your fiberglass tape. I've used that method and it works really well. Depth will depend on the weight of the cloth you're using. Experiment on a scrap piece of ply. Good luck. Looking good mate! Cheers! Rick
Yeah, just want to get the joint opened up enough to get some thickened epoxy in there. I'm afraid a circular saw wouldn't open it wide enough. Planer would be too aggressive/wide. Hand sanding with a block, are you kidding? Only if you come down here to help... I think the tip of a detail sander will do the trick, if not a finger sander might work too. Not in a huge rush to figure out the best way, seems like a nice winter job. Thanks for the ideas! Scott
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn Hey! I'm no stranger to sanding. :-) Seems like that's all I've done for the last 13 years on my project. Would love to come see your boat build. Where are you located? We're frozen out here in the winter so some Sanding Insanity would be fun. I know, I'm a sick puppy. Just watched your Glen-L build. That's a pretty little boat. Cheers!!! Rick
And of course SheKon has been doing this for a bit now and knows what he is talking about! Good to see ya SheKon
Hi Rick, I'm in north west Iowa. Cold here in the winter too. But shop is heated. Hopefully only one winter left in the shop, with luck I'll be moving out of the shop next Spring to build the pilot house.
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn We're a little familiar with that part of the world. We got stranded in Minot ND when our Jeep decided to part company with our RV in October one year. I'm envious of anyone with a heated shop. No chance here to heat a huge tent. I should be able to close up our boat and heat the inside pretty easily. Just got to remember these projects are marathons, not sprints. Cheers!
My understanding about the reason for needing a foot of verticle distance to the water lift is to allow water to drain downhill while starting. Once gasses are flowing from the engine, it will push the water out the water lift. If your engine is slow to start, water can back up into the engine if it doesnt have a place to collect (in the water lift muffler). It also helps on gas engines for "flooding" or too much fuel in the cylinders. If the backpressure it too great and the the gasses have nowhere to go, your air fuel mixture will be off. having the expansion room helps.
Yes, the volume of the muffler is what keeps water out of the engine on cranking. The water lift must be sized for your engine. Of course you need it to drain down into the muffler, so my guess is the 12" is just a good number and perhaps not a hard requirement.
Fish eyes maybe down to wax on the ply it happens sometimes on the prep spraying car body work great job so far
Yeah, maybe something in manufacturing or in shipping got on them. Nothing I've done should have caused it.
imagine if the boat had floated away :)
It would be an easy way to get it out of the shop....
I just stumbled across this- she’s looking good. You sound a lot like me when I started. I’ll catch up on your other videos. Keep after it ! Greg R. DD48 Tardigrade
Hi Greg, I've seen photos of your build, exceptionally well done! I only hope mine ends up half as nice. Feel free to contact me via e-mail from the contact link on youtube if you'd be willing to answer some questions. Scott
Do you have any weight calculations for the finished boat?
Should be around 51,000 pounds fully loaded; fuel, water, food, people, etc. That would put it mid to upper 30 thousand pounds dry.
What about (for the hole saw) cutting as far as you can, using a drill to finish the center hole, and then coming in from the other side with the hole saw again? Yea, of course access is needed. Nice to see continuing progress!
Would have if I could have, but no, can't reach from the inside. I usually cut from both sides just to get a cleaner cut, not able to in this case.
good to see the interior space you have the engine room looks roomy what capacity are all the tanks diesel,water,waste etc
Diesel should be upper 1,300 gallons, fresh water about 200 gallons but I'll also have a water maker and rain catchment system. Holding tank is 40 gallons, but it's grey water only since I have composting toilets.
when the biblical flood comes you will be able to float away in your ark🚤
I had a retired pastor out one day to visit. The biblical analogies were flying fast and furious...
coming along nicely sure is a mammoth project 🦣
Thanks. Yeah, good thing I have plenty of time on my hands!
Just one layer of plywood? Just curious about what's keeping water out from between them.
Joints between sheets of plywood will be filled with thickened epoxy then a layer of glass cloth applied over the joints.
Put a washer under the lock nut on your bevel
The problem is the wings on the wing nut are too long, they hit whatever you're trying to measure.