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I use leebman24 and I think they ship anywhere in Europe. If you’re in the states, bimmerworld is a good bet. The BMW CCV was around 65€ a year ago

I did, but unfortunately I don’t make them anymore.

No - the control unit is electronic and should be dry. If there is oil, you have a damaged hydraulic block that is leaking.

@@FullgasNoTraction I see, ty 👍

I think I got it from eBay - I’ll have a look and post up the seller details

@@FullgasNoTraction thank you!!!

@@FullgasNoTraction ive looked everywhere on ebay and i cant find anything..

Yeah, honestly me too. The seller I bought it from doesn’t have anymore it seems. I’ll keep looking, because I think there is an European dealer somewhere

So I found the email address of the European dealer, in the Netherlands. Try them here cimcool.nl@duboischemicals.com

Yeah, they are hard to come by. As soon as they online, it seems they sell out 😂 But here is the link to the eBay seller and he does seem to make a batch at a time. Hopefully you’ll get a chance soon!! www.ebay.de/usr/haugers-werkzeugshop

@FullgasNoTraction still looking for the tool... Maybe we can do a video together? Aussie driving from Spain to do subframe bushes 😆 🤣 😂

Hahaha! Sure, that would be a truly international video!!

But you’re in luck! That eBay seller has just put one up for sale: www.ebay.de/itm/135235059456

I can't believe I missed this reply 😮 Tool already sold... I managed to remove them without the tool 😅

@@mr_ali3692 yes, in the video I mentioned that I had just replaced the wheel speed sensors a few weeks earlier

@@bigj198 I got it locally from a guy who scraps BMWs and takes the good parts off. It is an original part and yes, they are hard to find. Try eBay Kleinanzeigen if you’re in Germany

You’re welcome! Oh good success with your touring and yes, financially, it also didn’t make much sense, but I love driving it every day and I agree, the experience alone was worth it for me! I finally reached mechanical perfection with mine (some more videos planned), but now rust has caught up to me and I’ll be doing bodywork restoration soon 😂

@@FullgasNoTraction yeah rust is a huge issue on mine as well. If it wouldnt have been my dream car i wouldnt have bought it but they are just so damn good looking. Im also really looking forward to driving it at one point as it doesnt have tüv and needs alot of work to get it done again like the brake lines and so on. Keep up with the good Videos though they help alot!

@andreasstrauss5194 oh yeah, I had to replace all the rear metal brake lines around 5 years ago and I only made pictures of the work! But I also disconnected the rear subframe which gave a lot of access to the lines. This year I replaced the rubber lines and rebuilt all of the callipers and filmed it - so I just need to edit that into a video! I also filmed any kaputski I made, so hopefully you can avoid my mistakes 😂 At least with old BMWs, there is no shortage of RUclips content 😂😂

@@FullgasNoTraction i noticed it when i used to do stuff on my skoda youd almost never find anything although its a much newer car so im guessing they dont break as often yet. Im really looking forward to these Videos!

Yes, I agree completely! You can still buy the “ATE” brake calliper rebuild kits from Leebman 24, which are OEM! The availability of e39/46 mechanical parts is astonishing! I have also found that mine (and my friends 39/46s) have all encountered very typical problems. I’ve assumed it’s the same for other owners, because it seems that the part suppliers know what to keep in stock. So I’ll definitely keep making these type of videos to help keep them on the road! Thanks for watching and commenting!

You’re welcome - I appreciate you watching them!

Yes, I believe it was never replaced. What I meant by “second time” is that it also happened on my e46 330i (which is parked outside). Both cars have the same engine and the radiators were both BMW originals with the same manufacturing date as the car’s build date. I felt it couldn’t be a coincidence

I think I may have edited it out of the video, but I discovered that my 330i has a lower alternator current rating than the 530i (90A vs 120A). This might be why the deflection pulley is needed for the higher amps.

Thanks so much for watching and leaving such a nice comment! I just did a power steering refresh on my 330i and I’ll start editing the video for that soon - I hope it will help you as it includes a change of all the hoses and the reservoir 👍🏽 Sorry to hear about your 530i troubles! I’ve experimented with non OE electrical parts and they don’t seem to last (I don’t want to assume what brand of steering angle sensor you have) - so on the 330 cooling system refresh, I just bought BMW. Yeah, I changed the plastic bleed screws for brass, as they can be used many times without the head of the screw getting mangled. I also had a case where the plastic screw failed on the highway and I managed to exit just in time. I think the brass replacement is about 5€ and both the 330/530 have them and they might outlast both cars 😂 There’ll also be an episode out soon on rebuilding the brake callipers on the 530 and while I was in there, brake hoses and a fluid change 😂 Thanks for watching and joining me on the journey of keeping these e46s and e39s on the road!

hello from spain my 330ci likes you :P

Hey, Graçias!!! I really appreciate it! Yeah, there’s lots more to come - BMWs always provide content 😂

Check out part 1 where I take the glass out (the tab is normally on the bottom, but if it’s been replaced, it might be on the top) ruclips.net/user/shortstkcxL8L4pDU?si=BQ3OMeU8-Lkk4S5T

Yeah, that’s the oil drain pipe from the ccv and doesn’t go into the main bore of the dipstick tube. If you look directly at the bottom of the tube, you’ll see that the bottom of it, is made from two separate tubes. The outer portion is where the oil drain feeds into. So it does stop anything coming out fast. Best thing is to blow compressed air into the oil drain after putting in some brake cleaner. The wire brush won’t be able to fit into this outer portion of the dipstick tube.

@@FullgasNoTraction Oh ok, I will try that. By the way, what bad symptoms do you feel when CCV is clogged.

@@doodledo5226 In my case, excessive oil consumption and a rough idle when cold. The membrane inside the ccv can lose elasticity and also tear - this is another reason to change it. In part 2, I cut the ccv in half to look inside…

@doodledo5226 Generally, high oil consumption, a potential „whistling“ noise and you might also get idling/running problems as it’s part of the vacuum system

I thought I had explained it, but if it wasn’t clear in the video, here’s what I found out. You have the “prime” the pumps first and you can do that by unplugging the water pipe while the tank is full. While water is running via gravity, then replug in the pipe and that primes the pump. I’m pretty sure that’s in the video, but it was a while ago so apologies if it’s not clear. The breather pipe just ensures that during filling, you don’t get air pockets and a bottleneck effect while filling. I haven’t had any issues with the washers since

Unplug the output pipe from the motor to let gravity draw water through the pump

@@FullgasNoTraction ✅👍🏼.....thanks.

Hi there - I used an aluminium foil sheet designed to reflect heat. It was around 0.5mm thick, so easy to cut. I finished the edges with rubber safety edging which just slides on. All available on Amazon and cost me about 10 bucks 👍🏽 The aluminium sheet has indents pressed into it to increase surface area.

@@FullgasNoTraction brilliant thank you mate!

Thank you very much! Yeah, I can’t remember how I found the time, but once I started, the ball just kept rolling 😂 If you ever manage to find the time, at least you know it’s good for another 200k 😎

I would not advise doing that- but it will still drive, however you might not be insured

Hi - that sounds like what happened to our e39. You might be lucky and the motor shaft is just stuck and a quick lubrication might get going again. But the motors are not expensive and most of the work is already done, when you can access the motor. Sometimes the impeller can also fail, so even if the motor spins, the water won’t flow in this case. Best thing is to access the bottle behind the wheel arch, then test the motor in a bowl of water with all the hoses disconnected. You’ll see I do this test for the intensive washer, which is actually the same motor as the main windshield pump

@@FullgasNoTraction ok will see tomorrow :)

Thanks so much for watching the series! I’ll definitely keep the videos going as there is always something to be done haha! I’m with you - let’s keep these e39s on the road!

You’re absolutely right! I learned from my mistake and reset them about a week later 😂 Thanks for taking the time to comment!

Thank you very much for your kind comment sir! I wish you great success on your e39 and I’m happy to know that another touring is being saved! Sure thing - there are more videos in the pipeline, I just need to be better organised with my editing schedule 😂

@@FullgasNoTraction No thank you! You doing fine just keep em comming ...i didnt know in deutchland people have irish accent ...well i live in austria and iam half yanky :)

Thanks so much! Haha - yeah, it’s a rare accent round these parts for sure! When I speak German, the locals tell me I sound like a yank 🥰

Hey thanks for checking out the episode! Yeah, I would love a set of M18 Fuel power tools! Nice to know that it worked well for you! Aaaah, I’m so pleased to hear that another e39 is living a long life! I wish you continued happy driving! Yeah, our touring doesn’t get to see too much rallying - but I still think it handles better than most modern “sport” cars! I’m on the lookout for a 540i to restore and will probably go with a sedan, so thanks for the tip!

@@FullgasNoTraction Indeed , very good cars , but in Europe , y live at the border with Spain and more and more cities old cars are forbidden to enter, too old they and to much pollution... so they send them to the graveyard :(

Yeah, it’s the same here in Germany. But if you have a 30+ year old registration, you can apply for old timer status. Once you have that, you can drive in the emission controlled cities. They are trying their best to destroy these classics, so it’s up to us to keep them going in my opinion 😎

Man, I just shed a tear for you… Sorry that you lost the belt!

Thanks for checking out my channel and for commenting! You have a great „fleet“ indeed 😊 Ahh, I appreciate you seeing my mistakes as a positive - thanks! If you still need to use the car, I would suggest that you take extra care with accelerating and braking. You may have a problem if you have an accident for example - your insurance assessor could see that as a release of liability, because you know they’ll use any excuse! I didn’t let my wife drive ours until it was fixed and I only took it for a test drive to help diagnose the issue - you won’t have traction control, abs and esc available without that ecu. I easily felt that during the wintry conditions at the time. Take care and I hope you can get the ecu diagnosed asap

@@FullgasNoTraction Thanks for the reply, yeah you're right, should probably play safe. My other upcoming jobs are fuel tank purge valve and gearbox position switch on the E46 and brake light switch and replacement headlight covers on the E39, fun and games. Good luck with yours.

Thanks! Part 2 should be out in a couple of weeks :)

Sure, here is an updated link (currently the last one available) : www.ebay.de/itm/134557275796?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0&ssspo=gMcdDJZqSfe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=WfCTilxOS_i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks for commenting and watching! These tools are not easy to find to be honest - but the link above is to the exact tool I used from the same seller. I would simply call it a subframe bushing extractor and installer (or pull/press tool)

Found it. Link works. Thank you very much !

Great! You’re welcome 👍🏽

The garage is surely my happy place but my body only works when the sun shines 😂

It rides like butter now! Totally transformed the car’s ride and now my m sport e46 feels like a flintstone cart 😂 Well spotted - the nut was already removed from the end of swing arm bolt. I was trying to get the bolt to rotate within the bushing sleeve, because it was completely stuck. The steel bolt had corroded with the aluminium sleeve - so I was trying both C/W and anti C/W to see if it would release. My cutting disc outlasted my patience 😂

Thank you! Was very cheap and easy! Hahaha - all my mistakes are shown on this channel, so my audience can avoid doing the same! Thanks for checking this episode out 😊

Heat isn't the cause of the failure. Perhaps it contributes slightly, but it's a manufacturing flaw combined with vibration. The DSC unit has internal bond wires, similar to those which connect integrated circuits (silicon chips) to their lead frames (pins). It uses very fine gold wires and thicker (roughly 26 AWG) aluminum wires between the connector board and the control substrate (ceramic printed circuit board). The thick aluminum wires have a fracture failure immediately adjacent to the board welds. It appears to be caused by excess bond wire length that forms an omega shape with acute bend at the weld. The higher mass and leverage breaks the wire. The thin gold bond wires don't fail, nor do other locations with the same aluminum bond wires that aren't formed into high loops.

@1djbecker Thanks for the explanation. I watched a few repair videos and decided that it was beyond my skills to try and resolder mine. The repair company said that mine failed in a typical way - i would conclude that your reasoning is why they typically fail. The repair on mine is still sound.

@@FullgasNoTraction It is a very difficult repair job. It certainly isn't a beginner project. You need to clean away the silicone gel, far enough that it won't flow back. That will, very likely destroy the adjacent fine bond wires expanding the repair to all of the bond wires. The pads have the remains of the welded wires, which are inconveniently in the center and reject solder. The ceramic circuit board doesn't use copper foil, so you don't get the intermetallic layer of copper dissolved into the solder that makes for a good joint.

Wow!! Sounds like you’ve had a lot of experience repairing them!

Thanks for checking the series out and for the sub! I take on some private jobs for friends and family usually. What level of work do you need completed?

Give me a few days and I’ll see what I can dig up. I’m currently working on the e39 and filming the process. So a new episode will be released in a week or so. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! I actually did contemplate doing the engine mounts, but I was planning to drop the rear subframe and knew that I would run out of time. But that’s a great idea you’ve given me for a new series! I’ll drop the front subframe and clean it while I’m in there refreshing the lower parts of the engine 😎 In February I am filming a short top engine refresh (CCV, OFGH and VCG) Thanks for watching 👍🏽

Haha, yeah I was born a stone’s throw away from you! Born and bred in Belfast! Ooh, Imola Red Msport Touring in an E39 sounds lovely! Health to drive and keep her between the hedges! Thanks for checking out the videos and let me know how you get on 👍🏽

Thanks for watching! We also love these cars 😍

Hey, have a look at this pdf download: www.bimmerfest.com/attachments/bmw_torq-pdf.231605/

And for BMW E46 330ci m54b30 facelift? Thanks

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks for the tip! I’ll keep that in mind next time :)

Haha, that's really cool to know - thanks! Mmm, now I have a good idea for a 16th Birthday present to my son (if you can still buy them lol!)

Hey thanks for the message and for checking out the series! Yeah, I replaced the valve cover gasket after I bought the car as it was leaking, but now I wish I had cleaned out the baffles lol! I think you’re right, next time I have the cover off, I’ll clean it out completely. So far, the engine hasn’t used any oil at all and I’m recording it every week at the moment. I did think about doing the o2 pilot mod, but after strenuous research, I decided to keep it OEM as everything I removed was date coded 2003, so all original parts. Thought I would give OEM a chance to prove itself again first. I actually did watch that Polish lad on RUclips as well and when it comes to eventually needing a head gasket (etc) I’ll consider it then. Right now the car is on over 120k miles and running well, so I’m letting sleeping dogs lie right now lol! Nice to hear that you owned a 525 - e39 I presume? The 50s kid sure has a large following and I’m a big fan of Jason! Thanks again for checking out my channel!

@@FullgasNoTraction I am really glad to hear that it is no longer consuming oil. Yes, it was e39. My brother has it now and it may be coming back to me at some point in the near future. As you can imagine I pinched watched your mega refresh of your wife's e39 with interest. Keep up the good work. I Look forward to what is to come.

Thank you! I hope your e39 comes back to you again soon!