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@@billlewis1976 The Ignition switch is turned off.

@ I have a 2011 Chevy Silverado 5.3 I did that exact same procedure with my ignition key in the on position and it did not start

@ I put the relay and then it starts

@ I’m trying to diagnose no crank no start at times

@billlewis1976 Now I didn't try to start mine. I assumed it would start with Ignition switch on the ECM. may have to see you in crank mode, so if you have somebody who can hold the key over While. you've Cranking it.

@@mattjackson3950 Thank you. I'm glad it helped.

@@flippingcarsrepairs Thank you, sir, I appreciate it.

@@dudleynisbeth924 Thank you, sir.

@@naaderho5102 Thank you. Glad I can help.

@@cassiestratton900 Thank you.

@@jefferyzundt2308 Thank you.

@@calvinsandival8709 Thank you very much.

@@frankwallace5174 You are welcome. Thank you for your comment.

@@JaunDoctorinchargeMartinez Thank you, sir, a much appreciated comment.

@@Ruby-px4ug Thank you, sir.

Did you put your volt meter on your battery bolts to make sure that it was at least 9 1/2 or above on your voltage while trying to crank? Stayed above 9 1/2 V then you know your battery is OK. Next I would move my positive lead of my voltmeter to one of the big buss fuses inside the engine fuse box 40 amp starter crank fuse and try to crank it again and see if I got a fluctuation near zero volts.

@@NobleAutomotive Loss of power is happening so fast not sure I could catch it. As soon as the solenoid clicks no power then relays start clicking like crazy, but I will try that tomorrow afternoon after work. Thanks for the reply. I'll comment back. I actually have to buy a new battery cuz I stripped the side post out, so that will definitely rule the battery out but it was at 12.6 during all of this.

@@NobleAutomotive So, I give up on life. I've dealt with 100's of batteries, it was the battery. Put in the new one and it fired right up. How can a battery show 12.6 show good on a battery charger and be bad? No, I don't have a load tester, yet. Getting one tomorrow. This will never happen to me again. Thanks again for the reply. Something must have broke inside the battery? Only 2 years old, no signs of going bad.

Somebody tell me when you got good headlights and flashers and a battery showing 12.6 and the battery be bad? Help me understand.

@@Joe6packAmerican Love that you fixed it. Good job.

Welcome!

Start the vehicle then take the positive cable off the battery, if it does your alternator is bad if it keeps running your battery is bad

Battery, not only crank your vehicle. It also controls voltage spikes. It absorbs a voltage spike, which Electronic enginears say that it can damage your electronic components. So, by disconnecting your battery, nothing. Other than the electrical components. There to absorb the voltage spikes. Plus, if your engine idol is too low for the alternator to produce enough voltage, your engine will still die. So they highly recommend not to check your alternator with this method. This is an old school method, and you'll hear old-timers say I've always checked mine. That way, I never had any problems. We're not working on T models or a farm tractor 🚜

@@billywilliams3908 Better not do that on a modern car have seen it fry a computer.

@FollowTheFood Well, instead of the neutral safety switch, you look for the clutch switch that's located on your clutch pedal. bracket.

@@roycerichards8629 Thank you, I appreciate your comment.

@Joshua_Hammer.777 I think. If it was me and it looked good with low mileage, I would do it, but I would want to make sure they would take it back if it didn't work. What would be good if you could take it to some place that can test it with it off the car, like a starter Alternator., rebuilder or one of the Part.houses.

Great video! I'm new to the channel 👍

@@larryreagan6936 Thank you.

@Otobokebeaver No, I think it's mostly a Turbo charge engine, and the volt is not. I could pull my dipstick slightly out and the engine was stalled. Thank you for your question.

@@NobleAutomotive ok because AutoZone said this regarding the valve cover: Related repair - this valve cover often fails due to a faulty intake manifold; also replace manifold if it is missing PCV valve

@@ryanortega7053 Did you jump the compressor at the relay? If you jump it at the relay and your Compressor engages. harness is good going to your compressor it should run no matter how much Refrigerant. are any of the other sensors are good or not.

@@NobleAutomotiveI did not jump from relay. I jumped from low pressure switch. All sensors have been replaced

@ryanortega7053 The ECM controls the relay. So, do you have a check engine light? Do you have a scanner that will read the engine temperature? If so, the temperature must be below 250, and I think above 40° before it allowed the compressor to run, and I think around 270 before it'll set a code for overtemp And does your temperature gauge seem normal?

I do not have a check engine light I’m sure I can get get my hands on a scanner…. Temp gauge seems normal. Needle lands right before half way point

@@ryanortega7053 I don't know if you've seen my other videos. But this video shows you how to jump across your relay.ruclips.net/video/KePp_vsRjqc/видео.htmlsi=H1DROCE81WX0lmFW

LOL🤣

@@Afrattzz1 Thank you, sir.

@@tylerjohnson1776 Here's a link. To my other video concerning your condition.ruclips.net/video/KePp_vsRjqc/видео.htmlsi=mHLzfwVi5LvpMuNS

Sense how the crank fuse sends power to, the neutral safety switch. I would think they shouldn't be any power on the neutral safety switch to that pin, they'll be power coming to the neutral safety switch for other things such as back up lights. Have you tried it with the relay out? Have you tried in any other gear besides park? Is this a 2001 1500?

The circuit for the low pressure switch didn't actually go to the ECM on your model. It goes to the control head inside your cab. What I would do with it plugged in and engine running I would take one side of my meter to the good ground. Set my voltage to 20 V scale with the engine running and probe each side to see. I should near zero voltage less than a half a volt if you're getting volts more than .5 V then the pressure switch is open. In most cases that indicate low refrigerant You can also take your meter set it to the lowest scale on resistance unplug the switch check from one side of the switch to the other side with you two probes and you should get very low resistance if your resistance is high, you either got a bad switch or low refrigerant. If this checks OK, then your problem is somewheres else.in

Thanks for the reply. I have no resistance in the switch and truck running the blue wire to the low pressure is .150-.180 and .000 on the black wire. I have lights on the control I've actually switched it with a different control and nothing changed. Also the fans don't kick on with the ac. Don't know if that means anything or not? Thanks for your help!

Thank you, appreciate you.

Thank you

Very good Nice job.

Thank you.

Thank you very much

You are welcome. I hope it helps.

I bought it used so it didn't have the bracket. It's funny you should say so. Because the coolant got low enough. I got an isolation fault, which I'm investigating now even after filling it up with cooling. I still have an isolation fault, and I did check the battery drain and found no moisture in the battery.

Thank you for watching and thank you for your comment.

Thank you.

Thank you, and thank you for your comment.

Have you checked ignition C fuse under the hood fuse block this fuse actually feeds the ignition switch to the ECM as well as the starter ignition crank circuit Ignition 1 relay actually powers up ECM 1 fuse

Thank you.

You are welcome.

Be sure to check your fuel filter. Cause it might be trying to stop up. You're not getting enough flow.

@@NobleAutomotive new filter too I thought it might ve been that but it ain't still.same pressures . I think it's m y pump

@@joeroe2839 Yeah, does sound that way or there's Screen. on the bottom of the pump sucking together? Either way, it's a new pump.

@@NobleAutomotive yess sir ima have to get it warrantied new parts are not the same nomore 😪 thanx for answering!!! God bless

@@joeroe2839 You are welcome.

Also very clear and consice video. Well shot great detail. Very informative and descriptive. 👍

It's just highly recommended if you replace it as well then. Usually, you've got a 100000 miles before. You have to do it again? I would be sure the Pulley is tight. And there's no coolant leaks from the weep hole. I personally wouldn't do it without replacing a water pump.

Slowly doing this job for my son inlaw. Engine mount bolts siezed and snapped off

@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh I have been there of course I work for Toyota. I just ordered a new bracket, but it looks like Amazon has them in stock for about 50 bucks. That would be the only way I know to go unless you wanna go eBay and get a used one. Sometimes it's just unavoidable. Sorry.

@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh been there myself it's been a while, but I I worked for Toyota so I just ordered new one and the bolts. I don't really know what they cost, but that's only option.

I would check the Ignition switch and see if that power is coming into and coming out of it Because.Ignition fuse feeds directly from the Ignition switch. This fuse feeds power to the neutral safety switch. So you need power to this fuse before it goes to the neutral safety switch. You can't have power to your neutral safety switch until you have power to this fuse first. I would especially check the connection on the Ignition switch.

@@NobleAutomotive that makes perfect sense, thank you!!! I shall check that tomorrow, pray for me that I find the problem ❤️

@@dalatina911 I will, and you are welcome.