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Have you got the part number for the pistons and rings

@57:40 Son of a...... Been there bro! Nice job all around!

Outstanding video.. have an 07 scion tc with 290k on the clock and burns a quart every other tank or so. By “burns”, I think it’s the cat burning the oil because it doesn’t smoke at all.. which is weird

at 43:09 is EXACTLY what i was talking about below. thats why you NEVER do all 4 at the same time. you put one in first, complete it all the way then you rotate the crank to see if everything is spinning freely. and thats also why you MUST oil everything first. that sandpaper grind you hear is not good at all. you should not be hearing that at all and the pistons should be moving severely easy, gliding like butter. there should be no resistance. if all is good, you move to the next and so on. now you know =]

if u ever have to do this again or for anyone else...first and foremost NEVER do all pistons at the same time. complete each piston separately so when something goes wrong you know which one is causing the issue. 2nd of all never tip the engine upside down with loose pistons. keep it at an angle so they dont fall out on accident until all 4 are secure in place before torqing. they are aluminum. one dent and all your work is ruined! 3rd of all i noticed you never oiled up the pistons and rings before u plopped the piston in the bore. always oil them first. just a tip from an ex master mechanic. other than that, pretty solid video. good work. putting it back together with no missing bolts is the fun part lol

Yes my man! On the brake rotors, I cannot agree more. I laugh when I see people with crazy cross drilled, slotted rotors. I say, cheap rotors, put some rotor paint on it, some temp stickers, go pound some laps!

Awesomeness

Toyota sells a complete new short block assembly with all pistons, rings(corrected/revised rings), shafts and all at about $2000 plus minus, some assemblies cost about $1800 with discount, some at about $2300, depends on year and production location. So I'm just thinking what to do in my case as well with my 2008 RAV4 - to go over a rebuild or just buy a new short block assembly from Toyota and reuse my cylinder head with new valves, springs, tappets, chain and all the stuff.

That engine is a disgrace to the Toyota brand

Nicely done! Where did you order your pistons and rings?

From what I've heard, the low tension oil rings were the problem with these engines. That and the 10k oil change. Do 3k to 4k oil changes with quality oil to prevent gumming up the rings. I thought that Toyota's upgrade kit (pistons and rings) were not low tension?

Any moped updates?

My wifes 07 rav burned 2 qts of oil every 230 miles. Then a lowed lower end clanking happened that sounded like main bearings. after removing the engine I found it was the water pump. Im going to try my luck at just finding a junk yard motor and selling this

The fix is not a fix. Buy a new engine.

What size crank and con rod bearings did you use

Where did you get the parts?

What size jet did you use in it

Are those oil squirters supposed to provide additional cooling on the bottom of the pistons, or they are main lubrication source for the pistons?

Zen vid, love it. happy 2004 E46 330i touring owner.

How many km on the car?and did it help your problem?tank you

Thank for u video bro i have the same car burning oil

I have a toyota Ipsum 240u with the same engine, and while it definitely is burning oil I'm not sure how much. Enough that in the time between buying the (second hand 157K(kilometers) car and the recommended oil change interval(160K), the low oil light came on, and it got starved oil for a little bit before I could book a oil and filter change.

An actual brass float in a new carb. I'm impressed.

Your stereo dash area looks spot on. I’ve been searching for a dash kit that is a good match for the color of the center bezel with the air vents etc. Where and do you recall what dash kit(area directly around the stereo that has the AC controls) do you recall where you got it?

Great job 🫡

You have great courage and skill, although the 2007 RAV4 not worth much money.

what product did you use for cleaning the components(that green liquid) ??

Dude has to be a Toyota auto tech.

I'm surprised the 10mm single Hex didn't work for the head bolts. That or I'm seriously lucky. In 2019 I had a dealer do a rebuild for me because I was burning coolant. That didn't solve the problem and they pressure tested my head and it was cracked so they replaced that. Fast forward to 2024 and I have a cracked cylinder head again (but I'm doing the repair this time). I actually had to take the head off twice because I forgot to put the plastic water sleeve in the water jacket which unfortunately cost me an extra head gasket and set of head bolts. Each time I had no problem using my 10mm Craftsman Hex Bit socket when breaking and when torquing per spec/procedure. I seriously considered buying the bi-hexagon socket but never once had any sign of slipping or rounding. Amazing video btw! I'm still in the process of my head replacement, just waiting on some parts.

You should add an oil cooler to it from a Highlander. A friend of mine did it and should help alot.

does a HKS pistion fit inside this engine? i have an 03 camry with 275,000km

Got a link for the cam locking tool you have?

Any idea if the Frontier is the same? Looking to buy one and would really prefer wheel controls.

Great job there! Did you have to remove the cv axle on the passenger side in order to have room to separate the engine from the the tc/tranny?

You can have stuck Oil Control rings and compression rings be fine. No suction on the Filler Cap is more a sign of a non functioning PCV System. An engine needs to have 1-3inHg at the Dipstick tube running to effectively evacuate the Crankcase of contaminated Blowby gases.

Look how clean those valves were. Only problem?- low tension rings. Goddamnit!

Hey @rainvillecreative5410 I've just gone through this arduous task of thinning the chassis harness and have deleted the GM5 module as well as the ABS/DSC module. Im currently stuck and have a question about the starter solenoid poles. Can you tell me which pole was supposed to goto ground? In your video it seemed like it was the black and yellow wire, which i assume is the signal start from the cluster and the other wire was from the EWS? Thanks!

Thank you!

2years later....fantastic video on actually explaining the valve clearancing issues. I just went through the same issues where the machine shop didnt blow out 1 head very well so I dismantled the entire valvetrain to properly blow every out and found a bunch of aluminum shavings. I then checked clearances and the exhaust side was at .010" so i had to play the bucket game. I really appreciate the explanation on valve tipping and essentially your problem solving.

Excellent tutorial. Thank you for sharing!!!!!

The hell you put aroubd the cylinders? Some big plastic thing? Mine didnt have one those..

At 6:48, is that a big jug of Boones Farm wine on the floor? You sir are a TRUE New Englander 😁. Great video btw, ill be doing the same to my wife's rav4 in about 2 weeks.

Yea i had to remove the motor without any engine hoist and having never done it before.. i used ratchet straps and an iron pipe bolted to the rafters.. my 2az had a cracked rod and vvti was shot.. it got hot and was about the nastiest smell a car can have inside that aluminum block.. worse than any gear oil that Ive smelled.. made the whole house smell for a week.. aluminum and burnt oil is one bad mix..

Is it possible to install 1-2 & 4-5 overlap sleeve without dropping valve body?

Nice that you put all that work in. 100% for effort.

Low-tension rings are the entire problem, my friend.

They're like the early L20B Nissan engines - you just can't fix 'em. They'll just start smoking again after a couple of weeks. The later ones were heaps better and morphed into the Z20, etc., and were indestructible.

Seriously, I'd appreciate it if you'd report back on the oil consumption in 5000 - 8000 miles. I'll eat both my hat and yours if you cured the thing. IVMDI.

How do piston oil squirters fix a munted block?

They're kind of sub-par for a modern 2.4 engine, in that they are so-so fuel consumption-wise, and aren't particularly spritely in the performance department. Add to that the oil consumption, and why bother. My freaking worn-out PT Cruiser uses less oil than my friend's RAV4 that just got towed to the shop, and I think her car is doomed. POS. I'm told that rebuilding these things is a fool's errand. A new short-block is the only practical solution. The old 5SFE 2.2 Camry engine was amazing - unless seriously overheated. Got 400K out of one before I killed it with a heavy trailer on a long hill. Still got me home, and ran and drove for a couple more weeks before I traded it in. Oil light on the whole time, and knocking like a bastard. I miss that ugly old wagon.