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Thanks. Have you made one or maybe going to make one?

@@OurBlackCatCottage I've made a couple and am currently working on one using a 48v battery and an all in one inverter. :-)

Yeah when on sale but that is not often

Yeah if you can get one on sale it is worth buying. I just wanted to show that they are simple to make and you can save a bit of money.

I agree. I wish I had started out with 48v. Of course you could get two and put them in series if you can figure out how to keep them balanced.

48v setup would be a better fit for a 240v load.

You cannot run a 240v appliance with a 12v battery and inverter. It has nothing to do with the current.

@@maurice7413 Yes I agree 12v to 240v for UK appliances draws too much amperage for a single battery. Even with several in parallel, it still consumes excessive amperage. EDECOA 3500W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter Input Voltage (DC) 12V Output Voltage (AC) 240V

Optional.

@@OurBlackCatCottage you are suggesting that a power station does not need a way to get energy into it?

​@@funkmon, umm, isn't the charger a/c plug or solar? Seems like nitpicking.

They also have a charge controller for solar.

@@mr.c6674 yeah, one of which was considered optional, the other not included. Which is shocking unless people buy these as one time use.

As soon as I get some 48v batteries and equipment.

Yes. Please move on to 48v!

Thanks for your input!

I don't. It came with my property. But I do agree with you. It is a very cool shelter.

@@OurBlackCatCottage love to see more of the inside if you ever get a chance. looks like a good root cellar for food storage like we had on the farm

Glad you enjoyed it. Are you going to build an off grid system?

@OurBlackCatCottage I have a small setup on my trailer but want to expand it and go lithium. Your video explains things very well.

Disagree. Not at 12v. I have a Class T on my 24v and I love it. But no need on such a small setup with such low usage.

I guess if you’re on your own it’s ok, but having family members in a confined space during an emergency situation might warrant a bit more safety consideration.

The purpose of this video was to show how to create an entire offgrid setup, not just running 12v out of the load output of the charger controller. That would not have been an interesting or useful video.

@OurBlackCatCottage it's a basic system, understood, but everyone messes up with running lights through the inverter, the inverter is to run 110 AC, your biggest concern should be lights inside the storm shelter, what else besides a TV, that could be ran with 12v, and a radio, that could be charged with 12v, or even a phone, that could be charged also with 12v...maybe a hot plate, but that's a waste of power for a small system.

@@OurBlackCatCottage @MosaicHomestead is just trying to suggest that you use your battery the most efficient way because with the inverter running the lights you are wasting battery in losses with the inverter. Running 12V loads off the batteries is more efficient versus running the converter on the charge controller. Almost all residential electronic equipment is DC so items like TVs, printers, radios, and etc has power bricks to convert AC to DC.

Are you guys saying that the inverter will even draw power when not in use?

@kirok3184 Yes, if it's on even if nothing is drawing power, it consumes about 15% of battery power, but with my suggestion, there is only power consumption when light is on only drawing power from the battery...That's what makes running lights off the inverter a newbie mistake.

Thanks. It really performed well.

All good things to concern. Thanks for watching.

Harbor Freight is the only one with a real issue. They suck.

Homeline are about that but for an 8 pack here. Grew up in CA.... never looked back. LOL

I know they are different chemistry. I have done many Zinc-Carbon battery only reviews. I wanted to see how they stacked up next to the other chemistries.

I have tested them many times and they are always towards the top.

Energizer was by far the best. Harbor Freight was terrible!!

They do last longer but Energizer lithium batteries are not designed to be recharged. Please do NOT try to recharge them.

They are the best at leak resistance but really Harbor Freight is only one with a real issue.

I wanted to see how they stacked up regardless of chemistry. Also, Lithium does not like cold or heat.

I have found the lithium based cells (Energizer) AA's work a lot better in the cold - they simply last longer on my outdoor temperature probes (which connect via radio to the reader). I have not tried other brands, except for the normal type cells sold locally which are typically not lithium based. Of course, these are not the lithium cells for tools like Milwaukee and so on, which are completely different. @@OurBlackCatCottage

Surprising. I have several of them and have never had an issue.

The only ones that I have seen that leak are the cheap Harbor Freight batteries. The rest all had decent build quality.

Lithium batteries corrode just like any other battery., Worse, lithium batteries can catch fire. I avoid them like the plague!

The Harbor Freight ones are the worst at that. The other ones didn't have any issues.

Homeline is sold at Family Dollar. By far the best value.

@@OurBlackCatCottage Thanks, just located a Family Dollar store about a mile away, will be visiting them tomoro

I have done this test many different ways. Really high C rate where the batteries got way too hot and it was clearly too much and then really low. Results have always been about the same. The Zinc-Carbon (heavy-duty) are about .5ah and the Alkaline are twice, and of course the Lithium can easily take .5a output, that so with four that puts the C rate in a good spot. And at .5a, none of the batteries got hot so I am comfortable with my results.

Totally agree with that.

I also agree except on one point rechargeable last way less per charge.

Glad you enjoyed the video!

Thanks for sharing your experience!

Sammy Clubs aren't that great.

Thanks for watching!

What inverters are dangerous?

@@OurBlackCatCottage some that have no ground stake or internal grounding system so a lot of cheap ones

I have never seen a inverter without equipment grounding.

@ it’s not equipment grounding it’s referencing the AC ground and neutral to the physical mass of the earth as an accidental reference could mean any metal part can shock you the one you are referring to is just about the case

1/2 inch I think. It has been a few years.

They are made by EP ever. It's a Chinese company that makes solar products. These are inexpensive MPPT controllers, but they don't have the best tracking algorithm.

I would disagree with you on the Epever controllers. I have used them for years, have many of them - 100v and 150v - and they are an excellent value. Yes, Victron has better tracking but is three times the price.

Sounds like an interesting setup. I'll check out your link.

This was the first one that blew out on me and it was because I did something stupid. What kept causing your fuses to blow?

I was kidding. nice video

​@OurBlackCatCottage what did you do?

Thanks. Turns out I did something stupid and it caused a surge of energy that blew the fuse.

It might be ELV but the fuse still needs to be rated to break the short circuit current of the battery system. 600AH of LiFePO4 suggests it will have quite high SCC. Technically BMS will try to disconnect the load on excessive current but if it should fail you definitely want that last resort option of a fuse or breaker that can handle breaking how ever many kA that may be. Can your $5 fuse break 5ka?

@@retrozmachine1189 yes it can - all these kiloamps are significant only when you have high voltage, enough to upkeep powerful arc. 5KA*400V = 2MW, 5KA*24V = 100KW. The same time of arc breaking * 10 times less power = 10 times less energy to destroy the fuse. Its the reason why fuses are voltage rated. Moreover, just to achieve 5KA on 24V system you need loop impedance 0.5mOhm which is absolutely unreal. If you connect 20 (the same) batteries in series, 240Vdc, it will be able to give out something dangerous, but not on 24V

@@antontsau I wouldn't be so blaze about it. A battery consisting of 8 280AH cells can push 10kA at the posts if the BMS doesn't prevent it. In this chaps setup the wiring length would be the main contributor to impedance but relying on wiring as a current limiter is poor practice. Ideally he should have devices rated to break at least 10kA on the posts of his battery sets. So yeah, using a $5 car fuse may not be the smartest thing ever done.

@@retrozmachine1189 10KA on 24V is 2.4mOhm. Just to compare - 2M of 25mm2 copper cable is 1.5mOhm. Cable itself. Without battery, connectors, bolts, anything. So I estimate peak current there 3KA max. And yes, these fuses can cope with 4KA, on their rated 32V, not on 240 or 400V of course. They will blow, not explode, and arc will be contained and extinguished without further damage. They are designed for such application, low voltage 400A protection.

@@antontsau 25... right. if that's 25mm I'm the proverbial monkey's uncle.

here should be well known picture "fuse replacement chart" including "fuse with sound alarm".

Not a fan of Relectix? It was the only solution that fit this need.

So true. Fortunately, I was able to track down my issue.

@@OurBlackCatCottage which means there's a video coming verrry soon, right? ;-)

Looks like the Genetry 6kW unit. They also make a 12kW unit now. They are the only ones I know of that can be changed from one voltage to a different voltage. Sean and Sid have done an excellent job creating these very high quality inverters. You can look up Sean's Genetry RUclips videos or the Genetry Solar website for more information.

I think it's all about the accuracy needed for a given job. +/-5% should be good enough to see if a battery bank is charged or empty. High end tools are sometimes needed, but sometimes cheap tools are needed. It depends.

I agree. A Fluke is going to be more accurate than a Harbor Freight one and probably last longer but for an average guy like me there is no need to spend the extra money.

Buy once cry once! There’s no better than Fluke. Always knowing you’re using the best tool for the job is reassuring. You know you’re not getting false readings in the middle of a crisis.

​@@OurBlackCatCottage A fluke is not needed if you are not using it daily in your job. What you have is perfectly fine for your situation, and actually better than what we used to have back in the day.