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No track limits, 1 wheel still on the kerb and or technically on the track, always go for the gap, always go for the fastest line possible. not my fault, AMS2 fault. 🤣😂🤣😂 if WR time trial laps use the line I must use it too otherwise I will be less competitive.

Tenho CSP instalado, e não me recordo se nesta altura já estava a usar Pure ou era ainda SOL. Alias, dá para usar nos weather presets o SOL e ter no CSP weather o Pure como shader, assim escolhes no weather preset antes de uma corrida se queres pure ou sol para o ceu o clima as nuvens e chuva. Mas os shaders pure acho que atualmente são os de melhor qualidade e melhor performance em FPS. ultimamente tenho curtido do ppfilter C13AEGIS mas também há o Pure Life Evo. Os ppfilter de origem do pure, muitas vezes têm as luzes de travagem exageradamente saturadas e vermelhas, sendo pouco realisticas. Para o sol, se me lembro, usei alguns diferentes há algum tempo mas nao me recordo de ficar muito satisfeito, andei com um photorealistic, A3PP, Wagnum, Premiere. As vezes volto a ver videos antigos e fico lixado de não ter escrito qual o ppfilter que usei ou as configs, para conseguir recriar a imagem lol.

Thanks, I think that's why I'm so familiar with it. I've also planned to use it with a Praga R1T physics mod that I've worked on.

como as tuas 😇

@@caaarlos ❤❤❤

Well in non dynamic conditions the maxed out AI is no match for me, also on the P1 gen2 cars I even lap them if the race is long enough. But at max level, when the rain starts, my tires get cold and my grip goes down but the AI has hacks or cheats on, or something really uncanny. You see them going through corners way faster than me, way more stable, more speed more grip everything. I become a sitting duck waiting for the hunter. Very frustrating. In Assetto Corsa with CSP preview rain and pure, when it rains it afects the AI and me in the exactly same way and we are all in the same physics. Even thou people say AC ai has a bad racecraft, on many cars AC AI will be faster than me just with pure driving skill control, not with fake grip cheats.

You can make the V3 higher or shorter because there is more room for adjustment.

Amazing job man! I really enjoy learning from your laps but I was expecting you to improve it since when I did i saw tons of room for improvement 😁 On the chicane kerbs I make the car bounce so much but you go really smooth there.

Thank you. It doesnt look like you have to learn how to drive. I changed the brake balance to 65 in front, and a bit more rear camber. Give it a try...you can do a 1:45.💪💨✌️

@@hamtidamti0072 Thanks a lot, I got into this hotlap because of an online race and failing to feel the rear end of the car with ffb, that led me in a spiral search of ffb settings and adjusting trying to get a good feeling for the grip on both sides of the car. That's why I share the settings, I am also saving them for future reference. You drive really clean and make lots of great setups I really appreciate that. Thanks

@@caaarlos To be honest, not every setup was created by myself. I use setups from the leaderboard too and then tweak a bit if necessary. I have a Simucube1 wheel and standard+ ingame, FX is set to 0. No Filters in wheel software. 370° steering angle for this car.

​@@hamtidamti0072 thanks. in Fanalab "Auto" detects any steering wheel range. But in game you have Gain to your preference, and then everything else (LFB, FX, DMP, all zero?) I've noticed in some cars like the Formula USA 2023 there is violent shaking at high speeds and I need a ton of damper to remove it.

Sorry but I've sold my G923 a while ago, sometimes I think of getting another one for my GF since it was such a good wheel, my older G923 videos have settings for Assetto Corsa and Automobilista 2. I think for a wheel like the G923 you would need a higher value on mechanical trail in order to feel the rear end of the car, but maybe 90 or lower steering self alignment. You don't want to have the wheel autocorrecting itself to center too much if you can't feel the rear end stepping out.

@caaarlos Thanks! I did change some settings on Forza, but it's far from perfect and I spin a lot. I don't have the same problem on Assetto Corsa Competizione, I use the stock settings and it's almost perfect.

​@@ArthurOliveira-fd7ez The feeling for me is that Forza Motorsport FFB is less direct and sometimes feels like a delay. That is why i use zero damping on it. You can try something like: Vibration Scale: 50 Force Feedback Scale: 100 Steering Self Alignment: 70 Mechanical Trail Scale: 160 Pneumatic Trail Scale: 80 Road Feel Scale: 100 Load Sensitivity: 70 Wheel Damping Scale: 0 Center Spring Scale: 0 Dynamic Damper Behaviour: 50 Steering Sensitivity and Linearity: 50 And see how much it is clipping. Maybe try Dynamic Damper at 100 and if it's smoothing down too much every strong force, work it down towards 50. Pick up ur favorite car and track in rivals and keep hotlaping, ofc times improve with experience, but also when u change FFB. Then eventually you will have the FFB tuned in a way that you can hotlap faster, and your laps will be more consistent bettween each other. I was struggling with AMS2 a few days ago and today I'm going to post a #1 world record I just did in AMS2 while testing ffb settings. Oddly enough I was enjoying settings with some effects and damping etc but my fastest times came from ffb with everything on zero, and a bit of damping in Fanalab. But usually Fanalabs filters are really good, the damping from fanalab is better than the damping setting on any game, i get smoother ffb but i loose less details. (usually damping smooths out agressive ffb kicks but it can clean up too much detail) . Good luck and have fun, I hope those settings help.

@@caaarlos thank you!!!

not need for it anymore in the latest version of the emulator. you just go to the configuration of inputs. I think I've selected SDL for my inputs.

Not really I can countersteer quite fast, maybe it's not quite as "direct feeling" as Assetto Corsa but it's not as slow as some other games. Don't expect much of the FFB and my settings are insanely low on my direct drive Fanalab software otherwise the wheel goes crazy, needs a ton of damping filtering and pretty low FFB forces. GT4 FFB was made for very weak wheels at 2,5nm so I run my wheel at similar values. At high speeds like at le man with the fastest cars, the middle oscilations go crazy and i need to grip the wheel very well for it to not get out of control.

@caaarlos ok thanks! Now try to remove the invisible rails from ac...

​@@lv407 it's because everyone drives optimum grip or high grip stuff. it's pretty unrealistic, tracks need lowered grip settings. the most fun i've had was on a fixed setup mx5 cup with no tyre blankets in WSS 1 year ago. it was a slide fest and lockup fest until the tires warm up. and that is why so many people love low grip, drifting, rally or road cars in AC. There are a few things people get wrong about sims due to lack of experience. Old tyres were bias ply, which had less overall grip, more slidy but easier to feel and control. This is why you had people sliding Porsche Singers and F40s out of corners in real world footage, review drivers sliding them on TV it looks not to hard to control. If I saw a GT3 go sideways like that I was 100% sure it was gonna spin. Modern slicks like Pirellis have more grip, but are harder to feel and control under sliding, when you have grip drop off it's more sudden and less progressive than bias ply, and you get less warning. If i was rich I would love to get into iRacing to compare it to AC, if you config AC correctly it can be 1 of the most realistic experiences. And I've seen Algarve Pro Racing Team win the LMP2 ELMS 23 series and thank some modders on Facebook, because of helping them with Assetto Corsa, along with many real drivers that use it. But I can't afford 150€ of monthly subscriptions in iRacing every year, and then buying cars and tracks on top. If you want to feel less on rais, i think Automobilista 2 would be good and well optimised for you, but with a caveat, while you have a more progressive less grippy feel, the slides can be way too forgiving and controllable, and it's harder to tell when you're really out of control and when you're not. The FFB is a bit different to setup and feels a bit different but if you get it right it might be realistic for you. It's really fun for sure but I wanted it to drive more with the pedals and less with the steering wheel, just like it happens in good old AC. ACC is still a bit of a mixed bag for me. Maybe it's because it gets into an uncanny valley where it's almost there but not quite there yet. It's too much micromanagement of the tyres and insanely clean driving without much risk taking that makes ACC more about the specific technique to drive GT3 cars and there is a lack of raw feel and passion to it, it's like guitar hero practice of driving technique for the specific car and setup, and even cars setups to track are pretty meta. Gamers gonna game and figure speedruns and optimize the hell out of things. Which is the opposite of real life where there is a level of unpredictability, uncertainty and randomness that can never be accounted for.

Thank you for the kind words. When I started sim racing most videos showed the tecnique but didn't explain or showcase an easy way to start doing it step by step, that is why I created this video. The reason I kick the clutch on every shift, is because I need to engage a lower shift from 5 to 4 to 3 to 2 etc... You can shift down multiple gears in slow driving like in real life, you brake a lot and go from 4 to 2... but that will not give you extra engine braking. Sometimes, with paddle shifters and depending on the car, today I just drove an LMP3 endurance race and shifting down helps the car brake. You cannot shift too fast or you lock the tires, you cannot shift too slow or you miss the corner because you didn't lose enough speed, but if you downshift every gear 1 by 1 just right, it can help the car brake quicker. But doing the way you said is totally valid and can be better sometimes downshifting in a middle of a long corner while the car is under heavy lateral load.

Ahaha I forgot I replied on the wrong account 😂

Thank you for the kind words and great observations. Even in the late 80s and 90s, the way the cars were engaging was different. I remember loving to watch BTCC in late 90s because the cars weren't that powerful, quite simple and not very advanced, but a lot of close racing and driver input was needed. And as you move backwards in time it becomes more glaringly obvious why so many people love cars like the F40, or the 80s 911 turbo. But when guys like Niki Lauda later Nigel Mansell raced their formula cars were anything but "on rails". And TBH, the sims aren't fully quite there yet, but the cars in general do move quite a bunch under braking. Older cars just have so much more leeway because right now while the performance numbers are the highest, cars are asking to be driven on tip toes, with silk gloves, very smooth and always care a lot about the tire, you can't really push crazy hard as they used too and expect a good stint from the tires. Older cars provided more variation in driving style, and while the technical adjustments are still important, the driver ability used to have a much more important impact on the results. All racing is racing and I still enjoy a ton of different cars and classes but many times something like modern F1 feels like it lacks a bit of that special character that makes some vintage series so special and unique.

@@caaarlos One of the larger factors in the difference between vintage iron and more modern racing is the progression from bias-ply racing tires to radials. Bias-ply tires provide maximum lateral grip at a higher slip angle than radials do, another reason why driving styles have changed. I may have come off like an old man shouting at clouds in my previous post. "Racing was _racing_ in my day! What these kids are doing these days, *_THAT'S NOT EVEN RACING!!!"_* That's not what I really think. Obviously, Formula One and other top series' drivers are fantastically proficient in their craft. It's just that he list of skills required to be at the top of the heap has changed since "the old days," and I personally enjoy the older style more than the new, that's all.

​@@OgamiItto70 I am younger and I do think motorsports (even tho last decade wasn't that bad) motorsports in general has started falling off out of grace a bit due to the change in styles. the public wants to see raw talent and honed skill and while radials can be harder to drive on the limit, we also want to see drivers on the ragged edge. we don't mind extra pitstops, we even enjoy watching strategies unfold, etc. fans want the thrill more than the numbers. you're not being old fashioned. I grew up watching pro drivers making a wage in BTCC with a ton of contact, gloves off kind of deal and absolutely loved watching cars that I grew up seeing on the street with their unique brand designs. just 2 decades later I couldn't care less about the same touring cars series where all the "modern" street cars I see around me look the same, and everything feels less interesting. drivers now pay to race in BTCC and aren't the "rockstars" of the show they used to be. It's like the finding new Ferrari 296 brake light design a bit odd and out of character compared to everything else I've seen on their racecars for the last 20 years. and sorry if this is out of topic, but I've noticed certain trends in design when ran through millions of AI loops for efficiency, like certain structures for weight rigidity efficiency or less aerodynamic drag. It tends to follow certain nature's patterns and eventually everything from every brand ends up looking almost the same if we strive for maximum efficiency all the time. So yes, you're not old, when things were less figured out, life was better, things were more unique and had more character. When everything gets "too figured out" and innovation starts to stagnate and things become boring and stale, lose character and sometimes changes won't even make sense. (like the current F1 cars being heavy huge which is 2 polar opposites for a racecar lol)

very different from modern one :D

😁

thank you, cheers!

nope, I think there is a point where I talk and show an adjustment screw on the side of the shifter, it's on the inner side and after mounting it's not accessible to me anymore, so I adjusted it to feel heavier resistance before mounting it. Out of the box it was a bit lighter, you could make it even lighter or go much heavier, I was able to set it a bit on the heavier side but I didn't adjust to the max because I was afraid that could be too tight and wear anything out. I know there are mods and replacement parts online but I found that even before maxing out the resistance it was heavy enough for me. I think it might feel slightly heavier than my IRL car but my IRL is a cheap Alemera from 98. I wish I had the Primera tho. ahahah

220mb através de sata III e consome 5.1watts

I'd think it was 26. I gotta re-record some BTCC with better video quality and setup

​@@caaarlosyeah there a new British Trouing cars Champship game out this year or next year been a very long time between drinks 1997 and 1998

​@@kylewaddington1983 I heard about something like that from Motorsport games I think, or someone who had a license but for modern touring cars even tho I would really enjoy a historic touring cars since the 90s series already classify as a classic.

Thanks a lot! cheers

Fun time driving this wild F40 ! 😁

Thanks man. The settings are pretty scuffed because the FFB is a bit weird and designed for a very weak steering wheel. I also have high speed oscillations but they are just less strong and less noticeable, but my whole FFB is also much weaker. I will share the settings I had in the video: (with 20% FOR, it will actually work at around 2.6nm which is similar power to the original wheel for GT4) [SEN] 370 [FFB] 85% [FFS] LINEAR [NDP] 5% (can increase for stability) [NFR] OFF [NIN] OFF [INT] OFF (1 for stability, less detail) [FEI] 100 [FOR] 20% [SPR] 120% [DPR] 30% [BRF] MAX (100) I hope you find these useful. I was using PCSX2 v1.7 i think, but now I've downloaded a newer v2.1 version and I might try to tweak a bit the settings including trying to figure out other settings with the options regarding Gran Turismo 4 FFB but other than simulation, the signal doesn't seem to change much whatever I do. If you find other solutions to the FFB oscillations please share as well. Good luck and Have fun!

@@caaarlos Thanks a lot for sharing them! Unfortunately I didn't really feel much feedback at all with your settings, maybe I'm doing something wrong. I'll do more testing to try and see. This is what I use but the oscillations are significantly worse for me. [SEN] 900 [FFB] 40% [FFS] Linear [NDP] 50% (it's high, I know) [NFR] OFF [NIN] OFF [INT] 5 [FEI] 100 [FOR] 100% [SPR] 100% [DPR] OFF (I don't think this has any effect off or on, needs more testing) [BRF] This is preference, I use 80% because I am barefoot/socks Let me know if you do try these, or if you change your settings too, please! I'd love to dial them in somehow but I know there will always be limitations when playing a game this old. I have been having a super great time with it though. Thanks again brother!

​@@shaneh7946 ​ @shaneh7946 My settings rate at 2.5nm which is indeed pretty low and equivalent to a Logitech G25. There are a few things, increasing [SEN] makes you need to turn way more than it is supposed to, and Gran Turismo 4 FFb was made for lower [SEN] wheel settings. NDP isn't that high considered what you're trying to achieve, but there is something than can clean up many irregularities in the FFB, settings the [INT] 2, at least 2 or 3 in interpolation filter. [FEI] is the force from the game compared to the wheelbase settings, and usually 100 is default. When I reduce it to 20 it reduces the nm emited by the game by a lot, that is why at 85% my settings produce such low nm force from the base, just like the game intended. If I run 50 in [FEI] I need to set the FFB strength to something like 17%. and the wheel will get heavy and jolty on higher speeds but usually the FFB feeling is quite faint and we need to be light handed in order to catch slides and feel the car, almost paperweight hands if you want the car to self align and self countersteer. I'm running PCSX2.1.1 using the Driving Force Pro (rev11.02) wheel emulation, and adjusting that wheel in Gran Turismo 4 settings. The mappings come from selecting Enable SDL input source. Inside Gran Turismo, I think I have the FFB strenght option on Mild instead of Strong and not sure if I have powersteering on or off. But steering itself is set to simulation, regarding the wheel options inside the Gran Turismo 4 menu. I must say that in general, I usually have zero damping on almost all my sims, AC, ACC, AMS2, even racing games like Forza. I try to have a wheel that only feels heavy from the game's physics, but never artificially heavy to simulate the feeling of the car. Some games do that naturally like ACC; while in AC you can get the wheel to be quite light, and I like it because then I get very strong and loose FFB where any subtle movement from the rear end or suspension is immediately felt, which in turn makes me drive the car more on edge. I always apply the same philosophy where I sacrifice some stability or weight if I get useful detail. If you see my Assetto Corsa DPi race or hotlap, my FFB was jumping like crazy I was driving close to 20 nm max of the base and the wheel almost jumps out of my hands at every corner, but I'm getting as much info as I possibly can. ruclips.net/video/nV0yvIVpxaQ/видео.html GL HF bro PS - ahah I also drive a lot on socks but I'm very tall maybe my foot are too big to get hurt by the pedals at 100 Brake Force 😂 In my Thrustmaster TH8A video I'm even doing heel and toe technique with socks lol

I've activated already :) I'm even on windows 11 right now 😁

I don't know if I'm the greatest but I'm probably in the Top 1 😁

dava para deixar a transmissão o mais longa possível e foi isso que fiz nos ajustes antes da corrida 😅😂

@@caaarlos pois...limitacoes do abtigamente. Embora esse jogo ja tivesse pormenores deliciosos. Rádio c o watcher...setup nos carros e uma c9nducao ate mt para volante...raro na altura

​@@pedro.veia1977 eu fiquei a achar que esse jogo era demasiado avançado para a epoca e tentava tbm ser demasiado realista para a epoca, agora até dá muita nostalgia e prazer de voltar a jogar, mas na altura o jogo era demasiado bom, não teve a apreciação que merecia ter tido porque na altura nao havia sim racing nem era comum haver controladores analogicos. ainda hoje há jogos modernos de sim racing que nao teem coisas que o Toca 2 tem. escolher quais pneus trocar, dinamic weather, danos realistas, visão de cockpit e vidros partidos, vc pode ser desqualificado por bater com força noutros pilotos 3 vezes, e recebe avisos. no modo carreira nas corridas longas os pneus se desgastam e vc tem que ir trocar. na visão de cockpit os espelhos estao programados para refletir os carros atras de vc... é bom demais. nem o melhor jogo de playstation 2 de sempre (geraçao seguinte) gran turismo 4 tinha todas estas caracteristicas. o pior foi que devido a dificuldade e ao jogo ser tao serio, ele perdeu para algo mais casual como o gran turismo, e apos isso a codemasters foi criando jogos cada vez mais arcada e menos simulaçao. Eu so imagino se tem havido um Toca 3... ou um DTM ou jogo estilo o famoso GTR2, mas feito por eles, num motor de jogos mais moderno e com a mesma seriedade e realismo.

Isso mmo k eu penso. A mim marcoh me mt e por mt tempo desejei k os jogos de corridas tivessem o mmo k esse. Toca 2 saiu demsaiado a frnte do seu tempo. Se a malta ja tivesse volantes acessiveis tinha sido um jogao. Por mim nem PS2 tinha jogo de corridas como o toca. E gistava de ver um toca 3 dos tempos modernos. Ainda sonho com um jogo de corridas com historia. Comecares no kartings e evoluires etc. Project cars prometeu mas nao cumpriu e conducao e mt fraca

​@@pedro.veia1977 experimentei o toca 2 por volta do ano 2000, nessa altura tinha 13 anos e também me marcou para sempre. quem me dera saber modificar facilmente e criar mods para o toca 2, assim poderia pegar no engine e elevar a experiencia. o assetto corsa é muito bom para modding, até é relativamente fácil criar mods sendo 1 jogo moderno. eu ainda joguei um pouco ToCa Race Driver (o primeiro) que tinha um modo de historia engraçado mas a cada geração de jogo a codemasters foi ficando cada vez mais mainstream.

o Toca2 era realista demais para a PS1. Incrível como tecnicas de trail braking e modulaçao dos pedais funcionam bem como é possivel notar diferença entre understeer e oversteer. acontece tudo mt rapido, a sensaçao de velocidade é alta e a transição de grip para perda de grip é muito rapida. eu adorava saber re programar o toca2 para mudar algumas coisas e fazer ficar mais interessante e ligeiramente mais acessivel a controladores.

@@caaarlos sim nao era nada c9ntrolador frendly. Ate pk o controladot co.o bem tr lembras nao t8nha analogicos...portanto viraca aos tiques...haviam curvas k uma decima mais a carrgar na direcao e ja foste

@@pedro.veia1977 eu tenho um comando usb e com ficha playstation não sei se dá em PS1 e PS2 ou apenas PS2, mas creio que havia alguns controladores analogicos de PS1, até porque o Gran Turismo 2 mostrava telemetria do acelarador e do travão no replay, e era possível ver telemetria analogica (barra de quanto acelera e quanto trava) mas sim o Toca 2 era mais simulador que arcada, era realista demais e avançado demais para a playstation e para a epoca, na parte da conduçao, dá muito gozo e prazer conseguir conduzir com algum tipo de controlo e cuidado analogico e com a nostalgia de agora, mas para a epoca quando experimentei era o jogo de carros mais dificil que eu alguma vez tinha tentado.

@@caaarlos pois...vende mais sendo arcade. Eu acredito k toca saiu antes do seu tempo...se mt gente ja jogase de logitech ou algo assim tinha tido mais sucesso.

Procura ajuda no reddit, veja se está tudo bem connectado. Comprou novo ou usado? Os cabos estão em boas condições na parte inferior da base? O meu funcionou sempre tranquilo sem problema. Boa sorte a resolver isso!

@@caaarlos Acredita que não tinha vindo a fonte? Ksks Eu falei pro cara e ele mandou, mas muito obrigado msm assim 🫱🏼‍🫲🏽

thanks a lot! I'm currently reassembling the rig after moving home and I've been itching to get into the new update.

I forgot. Fanalab settings is everything at "default" or standard meaning: All game forces at 100% in Fanalab, FEI at 100, pretty much the "default". All the "natural" filters are on zero. I've recently tried 800 sensitivity, 740 or 720 for GT cars and 640 for LMP1 cars. I've also decided to use a lvl1 interpolation filter to help with stability in certain parts like that really fast corner in road america. I've tried my GF's PS5 dual sense controller for the past few days but I'm 4 secs off my wheel times. And it's much harder for me to be consistent. I'm also used to driver view (looks similar to the cockpit view I use in all other racing games).

@@caaarlos thanks I will try this hope I can match my controller laps! And for F1 and x-class cars how much sensitivity should be good?

@@DavidTRXGaming I haven't really tried any of those yet, I've been focusing on the stuff from featured multiplayer. At least LMP1 if you want to be able to correct quickly bit if it is too twitchy in the center you can raise. In theory a F1 car would be 360 degress but from my experience that might be way too sensitive in Forza Motorsport.

Glad to hear, I've been researching further but currently I'm also trying to figure out how to be quick on a controller.

I haven't driven everything yet, I have a few more videos with LDMh, DPi, GT3, Copa Uno, and GT1. For the most part I think I enjoyed all these. I haven't tried many open wheelers in AMS2 yet.

Thanks a lot, I'm considering trying a PS5 controller on PC since I'll be away from the rig for at least a month.