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After the process is completed, you drive as normal. The engine computer will have learned its idle. To be extra safe you can shut it down and leave it for 15-30 minutes to save any information but I don’t think that is necessary with these simple engine computers, some newer more sophisticated engine management systems require going to sleep to save it all properly

2010 tundra owner you are the beast thank you

Happy to help, thanks for watching!

Glad I could help!

Glad I could help

Elaborate on your question a little further

Friend, I am glad it was helpful to you, thats the main reason I do this. Thank you for watching and taking the time to drop such a nice comment. I truly hope you subscribed.

Glad it helped!

Glad it was helpful!

Great tips for others who might be searching for information on the newer models, and if its a challenge it will only amplify the level of accomplishment you will feel when the job is completed. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Consider liking and subscribing.

Highly possible But also dirt build up within the tracks causing higher friction

So nice of you, thanks very much.

There are many styles of diesel fuel injectors, some naturally generate small ticking noises. It’s the louder noises you have to worry about, or if one is making a different noise than all the rest of them, then that would be a good indication that the injector is either dirty, worn out and failing or has a fuel supply issue or even mechanical damage. Another thing to consider is that injectors don’t always just hard fail, sometimes they just do not meter the fuel correctly, too much or too little over long period of time, causing wear to the engine because of fuel washing the cylinder walls, fuel diluting the oil, or running lean, causing it to run hotter and work harder. Then there are also exhaust system damages which can occur. You can do an oil change, run it normally for a bit and then have an oil analysis done, but I would watch a video on how to properly collect example so that you do not contaminate it and end up with false readings. This as well as checking your fuel consumption will help you determine if you have an over/under fueling condition. Don’t just throw parts at it, there are people out there who can bench test these injectors as well. Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@MechaniclifeJDM Thank you for the in-depth reply! The noise I am talking about is fairly loud, louder than the normal engine noise (normal: ruclips.net/video/nqSxtcUhbxg/видео.html vs mine: ruclips.net/video/gbHFZZM5KLA/видео.html ). I listened using a screwdriver each injector, one of them (probably 3rd from left to right) was ticking louder, but I am not a mechanic and I am unsure if my testing was correctly conducted. As for the injectors not metering the fuel correctly, would that not appear on an OBD test while driving the car? I have done that with two mechanics and both confirmed my injectors measure good. I know my EGR valve is stuck open, it never closes all the way. Could that cause this noise at idle? I know it causes a ticking of sorts at certain loads. Analyzing an oil sample is not an option in Romania, no such service is available, except overseas and it's pricey. Unless necessary, I wouldn't resort to this. As for my fuel consumption, it's high only when the engine reaches that load that causes ticking because of the EGR valve being open. Otherwise, consumption is normal I would say. I am definitely trying to avoid replacing the injectors - they are expensive - , but I doubt my mechanic has professional tools to clean them. Depending on how thorough the cleaning process must be, I could ask them to do it. What do you advise?

Definitely take care of that stuck open EGR valve first then monitor weekly to see if your injectors sounds are changing at all. I feel safe to assume that you have changed your fuel filters

@@MechaniclifeJDM Alright, that's what I'll do, thank you! Of course, the fuel filter was changed back in April 2023 when the car was bought and in April 2024 again. This noise was already on the car when we bought it, but yeah, we weren't careful enough to notice it in time.

I wish, they never made it a recall and now I have done sooo many more its crazy. Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@MechaniclifeJDM BMW water pump recalls all over the news today so check

Before removing and buying the parts, of course

You will have to pull the panel and visually inspect. However, at the rate these parts are failing, I strongly suggest that you buy and replace both, if you can swing the cash. Go in there once with quality parts and do a careful job and it will all be good to go for a good long time. Thanks for watching and commenting, follow up with us here once you repair it.

@@MechaniclifeJDM thanks boss

You’re very welcome but there is no boss here, just a humble servant of God. Thanks for being a supporter.

@@MechaniclifeJDM amen

Thanks for watching and commenting, no timing of the pomp is necessary on this vehicle. That idea most likely comes from medium to heavy duty trucks with diesel injection pumps, a lot of those must be timed.

Maybe watch it again, friend, but only this time do not fast-forward through because….. Starting at 11:08. All the way to 24:30 I give you every detail you need. I fix failing cars, I can’t help you with your particular level of attention to detail, good luck.

There is a hole on the back of the motor for an allen to fit into so that you may move it manually, you must set it at close to the max lift position as you can get

@@MechaniclifeJDM thanks alot. Great video by the way!

No but it is easy to obtain Call BMW with the last seven characters of your VIN or go on the real OEM website with it, trust that it is incredibly easy to find those part numbers, but why is it that you have an interest in the bearing?

​@jdmtechllc6589 The oil seal is what I've tried to find but I thought you mentioned inspecting the bearing so I thought it may be something that needs replacing at some point. Was going to log the PN.

@@MauriceSamra-uc6fj Good idea, but I only mentioned inspection because you are right there, not really because I noticed any failure trends.

​@@MechaniclifeJDM Got it! 👍

Glad it helped, thanks for watching, please like and consider subscribing, thanks again.

This is the second time I've had to do it in the last year so I have to go out and buy the tools to remove the panel I bought the Phillips screwdriver Allen wrenches and now I need to know the size socket to remove those nuts holding in the window regulator

It’s all a part of the fun! Thanks for watching and commenting friend. Welcome to the channel, we are happy to have you. Consider following up here to let us know how it works out for you. Thanks again.

Welcome!

You are working with an older generation than what is shown in the video, newer the year the crazier on board emissions systems got. They made our own cars to tell on themselves 😂

@@MechaniclifeJDMOh 👌thanks. I drove a few more miles and the rest of the monitors set. 50 miles of driving total after having the battery disconnected.

Thanks for watching and for commenting buddy, I am glad you liked the video. You can pull the head and take it along with the spark plug down to a reputable local machine shop for a Helocoil, or some sort of thread insert repair like a time-cert. Don’t forget to get a new head gasket, muffler gasket, carb gaskets and spark plug; Get genuine Honda parts for the gaskets but in aftermarket I have had good results with the E3 spark plug. I would change the oil and vacuum the cylinder when the head is off and run the piston up and down by hand cranking slowly, should be fine. Don’t forget to torque the head down evenly and to specification, do not over torque it and adjust the valves properly upon reinstalling everything.

Disconnect your negative battery terminal and search online for the BCM repair for your specific model

Napa, O’reilly’s or Amazon

I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment brother and I hope your build goes well.

No doubt brother Good hack with the oil injection, as grease often dries out and or separates, especially in very hot climates. Hang a grease gun vertically on a wall near a bench in a hot garage and you’ll see this principle in action. Then when it fails to distribute while the suspension is moving with very little travel and very repetitively on the same spot, then we have the squeaking. Nice hack, but maybe clean the area and apply a little bit of some high-quality silicone like hondabond to keep it in extra long-term. another good hack with ball joints is to spray them with AT-205, it is a polymer seal rejuvenator, meant for engine oil, but I’ve used it on my boat, bellows, bushings and ball joint boots for years, it really helps out with the rubber under the vehicle lasting much longer especially in a dry climate like here in Southern California

I'd first injected a silicon spray, but it was too thin and wore off quickly. The ball joint is poorly designed IMO. Its actually upside down. The ball part and joint part is on the top, so grease will eventually melt downwards, thus leaving exposed metal-to-metal. Ideally, injecting something like Super Lube Silicone Lube would be best. I know that WD40 and any petroleum-based produce will dry out rubber parts. I usually soak all rubber boots, suspending air bags, and bushings with a silicon spray using a straw whenever I'm done with working under the car. I'll give At-205 a try.

Glad it helped, thanks for watching and commenting friend!

Same here, very noticeable improvement in the drive quality, thanks for watching and commenting friend!

You are NOT just a girl, you’re smart, nice work, thanks for watching, be careful for moving parts in the door panel when energized, let us all know how the repair goes for you.

@@MechaniclifeJDMthank you so much, that’s very uplifting ! I was following along very well up until i was just abt to install the new regulator… 🤦‍♀️ i accidentally bought the new one w/o a motor & as i tried to affix the old motor onto the new assembly, the wires sprung loose & it all unraveled 😂 i will be buying a different one w/ a motor already on it lol

⁠@@1nner.w0rld😂 lesson learned on that one, it happens, even to the professionals, at least you weren’t injured, hopefully you have it back together already and working good by the time you see this. Follow up here either way. What state are you out of?

⁠@@MechaniclifeJDM I completely failed… the entire window glass shattered 😔 just kidding lol the replacement was a success ! it was surprisingly easy, so thanks again 🙏🏼 I was also wondering can WD-40 be used as a silicone lubricant spray like shown in the video ? & I’m out of tampa, FL !

@@MechaniclifeJDM ok got’cha, good thing i asked 😮‍💨 & what a coincidence, small world lol

Debris building up in the trigger is the theory

@@MechaniclifeJDM thanks I’ll use my compressor to air it out.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Did you see part 2?

Good luck!

Sorry that happened to you friend, hopefully it wasn’t driven too long being low on fluid. Watch this one: ruclips.net/video/XW-4pC4yn0g/видео.htmlsi=rRikVqUaAz9luxHj Then ask any questions you may have It will better explain the fluid filling process although it is on an 8 speed