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@@donkeh_content2192 yes I believe that has the electric trigger unit

@ thank you so much 🙏🙏🙏

Sticker for the optical sensor, included in the box with the mosfet.

It has to be one with a g&g etu trigger unit

Around 6-8 months if you use like 4 times weekly if once a week like for 2 years prolly

Yes the only difference is the magazine

@@airsoftscientology8885 wow I actually did not think you would reply this soon. Thank you very much.

Only if it is made by G&G with the built in mosfet

Simplest way is to use a weaker spring. This gives you the best of both worlds; the weaker spring will lower your fps as well as increase rps and response as the motor has to do less work thanks to the decreased load of a weaker spring. If you want to stay in the 300fps range, go for an m100. An m90 spring might bring you into the 200s due to the arp9's short barrel but if your compression is good than you might be able to stay around 300 with it.

how

Get like a 30k motor

@@stayredeyed Thank you! I was doing some research and a higher torque motor like a 30k seems to improve the fire rate as you said.

@@stayredeyed Also I heard switching to a lipo battery improves fire rate, but then I should probably get a MOSFET to help with the current.

@@vvjgee4g yup! All of those should help you improve fire rate, but be carful you don’t go over your fields fps limit.

@@stayredeyed I will keep that in mind! My AEG already performs consistently under my fields fps limit.

In would get a new aluminum trigger sum are slightly faster than this and they do look better in my opinion

@@ZaxhzzOk thank I’ll get it then it’s red and only $20

you can try replacing the mosfet

@@matthefat9445 yeah bro I tried that. Gave up on wasting money on it a while back, thank you tho

The pull should feel very similar to stock since it is under the same spring tension. If it is hard to pull, I am thinking that the trigger spring was maybe not installed correctly or the trigger isn’t sitting right. Another cause could be that the plastic extension you put may be a little too wide, making it touch the gearbox or other parts which could be making it hard to pull. Sorry to hear it didn’t work out too well, hopefully these tips are helpful though.

@@airsoftscientology8885thanks for the reply bud, will take apart soon and try to fix it

Getting 35 on a full battery

Great analysis! I have actually looked deeper into this topic and found that the micro switch is extremely durable against any direct perpendicular force applied to it. It seems as if the micro switch itself has a built in mechanical limiter that prevents it from being pressed into failure. I’ve had this hair trigger mod on for tens of thousands of semi auto shots and the micro switch is yet to break. Also important to mention is the relationship between the micro switch and the metal tab with respect to their individual maximum allowable stress - the metal tab has a lower “failure” point than the micro switch. This means that, in practise, when you pull the trigger really hard (beyond the point of switch activation), the metal tab will actually bend backwards, allowing the excess force to be distributed away from the micro switch. The only downfall of this is that, overtime, the trigger pull grows larger and larger. To solve this, I cut out a small rectangular plastic piece from the same card in the video that sits in the space behind the trigger. It’s a bit difficult to explain in text but this plastic piece acts similar to the small screw you mentioned, providing a true mechanical stop that limits the trigger travel from exceeding the point of activation.

​@@airsoftscientology8885 today i was finally be able to put my mods to the test. i am using the chipcard-mod you mentioned at the end of your comment. glued two small pieces on top at the right spot and did some fileing, because they were just to high, resulting in ~2mm of trigger travel. i had this and other ideas a while ago, but didnt wanted to tinker around to much, because i broke my first gun doing that :D i did a few mods and they worked well for being at an alpha-stage. for the g&g semi-only i need a better way to tighten the screw of the dropstock-mod and the hop-up tracer mod needs more leds. 14 volt lipos in the cut down(like literally, 39 cm and i could go shorter), FA-only short stroked stock internals cm.621 were really fun to play with. i am quite confident, that the internals will survive that for a while. in germany ~230fps/FA is the maximum we are legally allowed to play and the gun is made for up to 1,5j FA. i use only reused stuff i collected over the years of tinkering. it is actually impressive how much money one can save by using stuff from home depot alone^^.

It will last a very long time. I’ve had mine in for over a year now and it’s still going strong.

@@airsoftscientology8885 thanks

Yes, this works for the G&G complete ETU gearbox with mosfet. It’s the exact one in the video actually so it will be exact same as yours

@@airsoftscientology8885 awesome I appreciate the response 👍

I have tried doing that but the metal loop is not long enough. When I bent it as much as possible, the travel got a little bit shorter, but no where close to what’s in the video. Also, I’m gluing plastic, not paper. (Plastic credit card) the plastic lasts very long, definitely don’t use paper lol.

@@airsoftscientology8885 right on, thanks for the quick response!

I don’t think so, it works only on g&g etu like the one in the video

Oh yeah they’re a pain to work on at first, especially if you’re used to working on higher end aeg’s, but you get used to it after a while. And I agree, for the price, they definitely should have added a quick change spring. If the one you’re working on still has the stock piston head, I would recommend changing it since it was the first thing to break on mine. But overall, it’s still a great gun. The one in the video has been abused for almost 4 years now (and still going) and it’s never failed on the field.

Appreciate it!