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yes and no. In reg water at a lake or pond 900mhz should be able to go deeper. However in a pool, there are to many chemicals. I dont have access to clear lake water pass 6 ft. Yes I tested at 6 feet running at 2 watts and it worked. that being said, I had to use a external battery to power the module as it was using a ton of power.

I do have a Focke-Achgelis Fa 330 for this U-bost. I had it in the water that day, so I didnt have it on when I made the video. But when its being displayed the Focke-Achgelis Fa 330 is on it.

If your Water pump is over heating a ESC and blowing fuses, then the problem is the motor on the pump is going bad or is being over taxed or you got a short. I used 25amp ESCs with the old pump that came with the sub with no problems. Also if you replace the pump controller, you can't use the pressure switch. You need to watch out not to over fill the yellow ballast bag. As for replacing the Pump, some people have used the INTLLAB 12V DC DIY Peristaltic Liquid Pump. It's bigger and heavier, but can be made to fit. Or other people have used a Keenso SI-AT23011 12V geared pump with a small 12v Solenoid Valve. As for Pump controllers, a 25a or higher ESC or a Deep pump controller from mr-rcworld.co.uk in the UK with a Active FailSafe. If radio signal is lost if auto blows the ballast tank.

problem is the oem big orings are not flat, nor just round. They are both, some proprietary oring thunder tiger made in the day. Ive searched oring companies and found some stuff that is similiar but just not the same and something id like to experiment with lol.

Sounds an odd arrangment, that offers no advantage. Can't you just use a flat seal or modify the end caps to suit. RUclips seem to have removed my other comment about using joke IV blood bags for a new bladder.

@@subculture84 I dont know, ive not tried using anything other than the oem orings.

Yea I have another Neptune coming soon for repair. I will be replacing the Ballast bag, pump, all the electronics and also replace the rudder and add a larger prop like I did with this one. Will be running a very large lipo, with a Magnetic on and off switch

That was the first version of the I400 that I printed. Well that version is good, someone on thingiverse posted it there. I decided to I designed my own version. What a huge learn curve CAD was. I design this new I400, what pain. I printed most of it, but that is all. I may make a video showing what I have printed so far.

Hi there, Yea I also own a radio like that, a Futaba 12FG. The reason I own that is for the 14 channel receiver. So if I ever need that many channels on my sub I got them. The transmitter doesn't really matter much when using the TBS crossfire, as it can work in many transmitters. The Radiomaster TX16s has many versions and the firmware is being updated all the time to add new stuff. Even has a touch screen that you just need to activate. I personal think the TX16s is over kill for sub use. Radiomaster came out with the Boxer transmitter at half the price of their TX16s. For now I am just testing to make sure it works under water. While the lake I test at is deeper then 4 feet, 4 feet is the deepest I can see even using a light in the sub. The module I use will work in most transmitters that have a Standard JR module compartment in the rear if it. Also in the video you see me holding up a single antenna receiver, that is a crossfire 915mhz receiver also but with 10 channels.

LBT (look before transmit) is the european standard. Frsky has LBT and FCC versions of their firmware, as well as "Flex" version that can do both. most r9 submariners have standardized on the Flex version, it seems to be the most stable firmware for r9.

@@timsenecal1727 On the Radiomaster TX16s, I have open tx on it, but could put Flex. The TBS crossfire module I use Is open, So i could do up to 2 watts, but it works fine at just 500mw. I tested the crossfire module and receiver in my neptune sub, 4 feet down 300 feet away. But I cant test it in the deeper part of the lake as the water is black as tar. One draw back with the TBS crossfire module and receiver I use is that its the best one they sell and cost more then Frsky stuff.

Yea I had to have one, love the sub, but not the price it took to make it. over 4k

Thanks

Спасибо

Your help was a god sent. Thank you!

Yea I had the Engel sub kit shipped from Germany to the US. Also this is not a standard Engel U177. Everything including the deck, from the deck up is not Engel. Yea I bought the Engel U177 kit, but I bought a ton of optional stuff to make it more scale and real. Also I designed and resin printed all hatches, storage contains, antennas, basic most of the stuff on the conning tower. Cost alot to build. I will added a video of it out side the water.

I did same way using two bolts - leaving one grub screw in as well. then use screw driver to lever adjust - tighten grub screw, remove bolts fit other grub screw

The video was made at like 3am in the morning and I was tired. As you can see by the date of the video, i was one first in the US to get this New printer and they didnt get any instructions the new rail system at all at the time. Even when I sent a email to customer support they said at the time sorry we have nothing. Lucky one of the customer support guys figured out that if the rail wheels are not perfect, problems can happen. He was the one that said to use a pair of needle nose pliers. I really do need to make a updated video of 16 months or is it 17 months of using the printer. As the Hotend is a E3D Hemera direct drive now, its in a temp controlled heated enclosure with electronics outside. I been moving more over to large resin printers, but this is still my favorite printer.

@@steamcastle2473 Well their manual still doesn't tell you how to adjust them and this is the only video I could find that said "just do this". My comment was on how to improve the adjusting experience, so thanks for the knowledge it was helpful.

@@TheShorterboy I still remember that night I was so mad at the printer. I thought I had defective belt motors as they were running so hot you couldn't touch them. I was told a few times by Tronxy support that the rail wheels do not need to be touched as they were set at the factory. But once one guy over there figure out what was happening and sent me a video on how to set the rail wheels. After setting the wheels correctly my printer was golden. It was like night and day.

in your slicer use Z hop setting. it will raise the extruder when it moves. Also make sure the Blue sensor is level with the bed. With the printer off. put hotend at center of bed and manual raise bed till Blue sensor touches bed. It should be flat on bed, not with front edge or back edge touching first

@@steamcastle2473 i think the probl is the z settings because i have set de sensor on different hights or the print is not good or the nozzle scrub the bed every print again the sensor touch the bed when i auto level all value are less than 0.8 so i think i need to set my z axes

@@davyneven4295 Ok from the sound of it, you must have a X5SA and not a X5SA Pro. However setting it up is basically the same On my pro i auto level a few time till its down to between .1 and .3. However with you X5SA you should be able to get it down to .4 after a few tries. Then after the last Auto leveling, set your z offset by putting a piece of paper on the bed and hit the z offset control. then slide the paper back and forth and move nozzle down or up till you feel friction on the paper and hit the set button. The I use the control and set the printer to home. Then try to print something

@@steamcastle2473 is was the z to zero that was the problem i have set the sensor and the nozzel to the same high than autobed level en than with a paper the z and save to zero and it Works Thanks men

Yes the bed is heated, has a 24v heated bed. The hottest I have used the bed is at 110C.

@@steamcastle2473 is the whole bed heated or just the middle part?

@@kimballwiggins3976 I would say the heat pad under the bed covers the bottom of the bed about 70 to 80%

@@steamcastle2473 thanks so much buddy!

SELL IT

@@ianyancey2919 Believe it or not, I finally got it working right. And my main problem was interfacing via OctoPrint. My Prusa prints a thousand times better, but it is working and printing ok

@@ldboehm How did you got it working? All my Tronxy except for one have massive layer shifts.

@@elmexicanoforlive I finally figured out that the main issue was going through Octoprint. the TronXY proprietary interface acts differently and was replying with errors on some commands. It took a while, but I finally found the Octoprint patch, applied it, then it started to work reasonably well and not skipping/shifts. Then I got used to how to level it, and to be super careful with touching the sides so it didn't mess that up. I also added a piece in the back to hold up the gantry better. I still don't like it. Don't us it much. I use my PRUSA and Ender all the time with no issues.

Is the red light on the autoleveling sensor turning red when it nears the bed?. Also did you adjust your Z height in the settings

@@steamcastle2473 i give up with it.... now one z motor only works. So wired them up to work on one conection into the motherboard. Now they both go up and down. Still can't get the bed to stop crashing into the print head. Ive reset Z of set more time than I care to imagin. I can only conclude that i have a faulty printer.

Yes red light comes on on the auto level

@@FishEyECameraKits What version is you firmware? My is V1.4.1RC24m4

@@FishEyECameraKits Also you have the blue leveling sensor slide all the way down correct? As i totally forgot that when i had the blue sensor slide up on the 2 screws that hold it, it went into the bed. I totally forgot that happen to when i first turned on the printer. it was so long ago.

Any MK8 nozzle will fit. But f you want a tronxy just go to Amazon and search Tronxy nozzle

First when you set your printer to home, does it home correctly? Next when you do a auto level, does that work correctly? If that works, go to www.thingiverse.com and Download the XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube and try to print that.

I don't know if they fixed the hotend rail adjustment problem(the center rail). On mine you can only adjust the hotend rail wheels by removing the whole dam hotend and hotend mounting plate as it covers one of the rail wheels.

I will be soon as I was busy, plus I am making a cheap enclosure for printing ABS and ASA filment.

Hi Jan, I've been running the X5SA pro for a week now and have to admit it is excellent. Printed excellent out of the box but now I have got the belt tensions dialed down can print 250mm calibration prints accurately. (1) The new rail system is excellent and I cannot fault it. I wasn't happy with the roller adjustments from the factory so I spent some time adjusting each carriage to get them running smooth and without any movement. Spend some time doing this to get it right. To adjust the carriage wheels tension you can use some right angle circlip pliers and insert them in the loosened grub screws rather than removing them completely. this gives more control when tightening the wheel post bolts. (2) Re Octoprint I have my Raspberry Pie ready to go but haven't tried it yet. I've just been loading prints onto the Micro SD and running off it. (3) I designed a new fan cowl for the hotend which works much better than stock. It is lighter but also eliminates cool air blowing downwards onto your part, important when running ABS. Link is here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3965016

For the 330mm bed the 24volt system probably works ok. Likely just slower to heat up than a mains voltage heater. Might benefit from a larger MOSFET or relay if they are using a single on board transistor for the heatbed from the factory.

The one I have is the X5SA Pro. The X5SA Pro is 330x330x400, the X5SA 400 Pro is 400x400x400 and the X5SA 500 Pro is 500x500x500mm Bed. All have the same options other then the size of the bed is different. All three have new rail system, Titan Extruder, Auto leveling, Filament run-out detection and power off resume print. Please note if you live in US, they are finally here in bulk, the X5SA Pro is anyway. The X5SA Pro is selling on ebay from US sellers as low as $350 with free shipping when they have sales.

No, I just used PLA and PLA plus so far. I will be trying ABS and ASA soon as I get an enclosure build for it.