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Drove 4 hours in it yesterday mostly motorway with some smile inducing roads at either end. Around 120kph crusing at 3500 to 4000rpm is not quiet but no problem leaving it in 5th and moving around traffic. The link ecu makes it really smooth and I've spent more time on the driveability mapping than any pro tuner would be practically be able to do (ie keep your car through all 4 seasons of the year lol). Torque is fine don't need to rev it out to make progress, and its a joy to drive short shifting too, but it hard for me say given I'm used to my other car which is a 350hp 2.5L turbo boxer 🤷‍♀😅

Thank you man! Mines a 350mm, depth to wheel rim is 138mm including boss, the nardi depth is approx 68mm. Hope that helps 👍🏻

Its not in Leeds no, I'll check that out whenever I'm up that way though :)

If only equipping these parts was as simple tho 😩

I haven't yet dyno'd it, the ecu is road and track tuned but would probably benefit from some dyno time when I get round to it though. At best without touching the block 100hp per liter is usually possible on a 1.6, as I've done this gradually over time the parts crossover from 1.6 to 1.8 is not possible so I'd have to start over which is quite the expense. If you are starting from scratch and looking specifically for power then I'd advise the 1.8 VVT. I just really like my original engine and how it responds/sounds, had the car for 10 years and done about 67,000km in it myself with 220k on the clocks, even when I finally overhaul the block I'll keep the 1.6 but use new pistons etc. It goes well enough even if it has half the hp the Subaru has 😅.

@@batousan_ thanks for the detailed answer you are the man!

Zoom H5 mic (XYH-5), it takes up to 140db, I think I can get it better than this with some settings if I spend more time with it :) . Its quite close to how it is in IRL. Also want to do a drive by at somepoint but its quite an expensive setup to leave at the side of the road, need an assistant lol

Thank you 🙏🏻.Max RPM is set to 7550, still on HLA and OEM valve springs so pushing it a little but the soft limiter I have set starts around 7300-7400ish.

Damn, thats such a shame. This has 220kms on it at the moment, original stock block and transmission and its been driven like the video demonstrates both on track and the road. I'm under no illusion it will last forever but I've found it really reliable and easy to work on so far due to space/access/design. I think once you go turbo and put too much boost down low it does have a habit of eating transmissions and the risk of engine issues. Its one of the other reasons I stayed NA on this, just so much lighter on the car (still using a 1.6 clutch too). I have now fitted a Torsen 4.3:1 with the larger ring gear/diff though.

ITBs were not that expensive all things considered, cheaper than a set of Equips, its everything else you need/want to do to tie it alltogether that add up. You can make up a kit from chopping up the OE manifold and using bike carbs but you will need an aftermarket ECU, and depending on which year/engine you have sensors to provide it with the information for it to run nicely/at all.

​@@batousan_ You have my dream build I did see your specs what exhaust did you have again? And guessing you had to source it from Japan?

@@lockenessmotorsports818 I was very lucky to pick this up in the UK from a breaker. The full title is in the description but it's an RS-harada, small shop in Yokohama that makes them for the AE86 did a batch for the roadster. Yeah, you'd struggle to find now

@@batousan_ damn that's insane I wanted a corns but I might go custom in that style

@@lockenessmotorsports818 they are honestly worth the money, absolutely lovely system and will really hold value on the UK market too. Go for it

The first clip and the start is a straight, maybe watch the rest? Round here that's as good corners you'll get, I wish we had better 🙏🏻

i watched the whole thing. Its mostly straight. and the corners are 20 degree turns most of the way. Go look at a proper touge as they are in Japan where theres few areas that are straight for more than 50m and the rest of it is curves. Gunsai touge and the touge course at Ebisu circuit are prime examples

​@@Agraviadore I'm sorry you didn't enjoy it, I wish I could do better but this is sadly the best we have, a touge is loosely defined as a "pass", there is no clear definition of how tight the corners need to be and it can differ depending on region. To me the touge is a your nearest road with the most corners that helps you de-stress your life. I've been to Japan a number of times and I have seen and been on roads that you are talking about, I've watched so many old BM and Vopt through my teenage years and still now as a adult, what you start to see is each region of Japan has some variation in roads as the topography changes based on region but nobody argues about what the touge means to them. Enjoy what roads you have and drive your car. 頑張って✌🏻

@@batousan_ it was a good video. I was just expecting some proper twisty roads. I kept waiting for the first tight turn and it never came. I guess you'll have to find somewhere more mountainous or rocky

@@Agraviadore Its a 8-12hr drive to mountains, this is 10mins away and I know it well, the only downside here is traffic. Do you find the roads are absolutely shocking due to poor investment? There is a longer version of this but I stopped running that section due to subsidence at the edges (the road is literally falling away) meaning you'd have to put the car at the centre of the road to drive fast which is not something I do, I had to replace one of the Work Equips due it taking a big hit on that section. If I took the 8-12hrs I'm not sure I'd have 4 straight wheels by the end of it, I have been to better places in this car but the last time, I took the Subaru instead, there are actual bits of road missing and craters that would swallow the Mazda. Also bear in mind I'm using a 10mm Wide angle lens which really straightens out the viewpoint, some of these corners.

I think you need a "project 180" as well 😅

@@batousan_ ive got the mk1 which i havnt finalized a plan with yet so maybe 😉.....

Thanks man 🙏🏻. I had the black og Casio as a kid in the 90s so thought I'd upgrade haha, indestructible 😂

Thanks, this was probably me getting a little too excited so will probably tone it down on the Mexican road. Track day booked for September but hopefully squeeze some more stuff in. TODA lightweight flywheel is up next, the response is already crazy so going to be 🤯

@@batousan_ Track day with your setup is gonna be nuts, and lightweight flywheel will take the response to the highest level. I bet it will feel magical to drive lol

The Subaru fulfils my turbo needs, in an ideal world i'd have 2 Roadsters one low boost ,comfy, slammed turbo for cruising around and this one for being a hooligan.

It was just the catback, I can see how I titled it is confusing but yeah, even 11 years ago JCM manifolds were super rare 😅

Nope, just enjoying it feeling less slow and sounding cool. Maybe next year I'll take it to a dyno :)

Are you on Link? Its better if you build up from a base map really and understand how the changes affect the car. When you say it wont start, is it cranking and catching it all? What axis are you fuel tables using for engine load?

@@batousan_ fixed it finally started! Thanks for the reply btw! I was using a 4g63 reading, only NA use mitsubishi's teeth reading, mine is a nb

Thanks, I'm using a Calumet Studio Clamp (heavy duty) on the roll bar, a Calumet Drag Control Ball Head (Large) and an arca swiss baseplate. All with a climbing grade tether. Totally worth doing man, the car is a fair bit quicker than it was last time I went to Llandow and I still have more to do.

Hp results??

@@MrTAKIS1984 Not had it dyno'd yet, all self tuned by me so just happy with enjoying the car for now. I'll get into the dyno/hp numbers at another stage when I feel its needed.

@@batousan_ would you mind doing a full overview of all the ITB stuff needed ? :)

@@humza5842 Theres a lot more than you think, theres a thread on clubroadster for doing the Toyota 20V throttle conversion, I'd start reading through there. I didn't get an idle control valve setup on mine as the Link G4X is more than capable of handling a steady idle with ignition control, I just have the throttle adjusters on the butterflies open a bit more to ensure it doesn't idle too low when cold (which means a higher warm idle speed).