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I live northern Ontario Canada and we have a lot of logging roads and snow machine trails I ride and when the trails aren't too crazy I take my fat bike(Norco bigfoot 2) so I do ride mine 4 seasons

Taking golf grips off we used to use compressed air but also put a PVC conduit over the grip to avoid the grips ballooning out.

2:21 is it necessary to change out that part between the bearings? can i just leave the old one in?

What's creaking so much on the bike?

Great video! Speaking as someone who has hip flexor pain, switching to 140mm cranks made bicycling for exercise possible again. If I am in the area, I will be sure to stop by and say hi.

Im 5'10" went from 170 to 160 cranks feels better and way less pedal strikes

Thank You!! a Million times!!!!!!

wow!! you are anabsolite genius!!!

Someone forgot to tell crank arm companies that the trends are shorter. Because they don’t exist

Does the seeker fit waist size 46-48 os fits all just curious cause i'm interested in one. Thanks for the review

I suffer from patellar tendinitis, and riding longer or harder rides can surely sometimes make this condition feel worse. I’ve been through pt and it’s manageable and strength has improved a ton and I lost a ton of weight but, it’s still a thing I deal with. I’ve find that with shorter cranks, my tendinitis “flares up” sometimes worse. I can’t pinpoint if it’s a seated pedaling thing or my stance when standing level pedals that is different from 170 vs 155 cranks. I’m 5’10” with about a 29 inch inseam. I just feel like I’m putting more pressure through my joints in ways that make the pain a bit worse. My left knee, the pain is above and slightly inside of the patella, my right knee, the pain is below and slightly inside the patella I do ride an emtb with 165 stock cranks and had 155 on it which I lived for pedal clearance, but I purposefully went back to 165 on the bike simply because it allows me to run the saddle lower which I need for clearance on steep descents. Running the 155 at the same saddle height isn’t comfortable and I’m not in the ideal pedal position. On my analog mtb, I run 170 only because the 155 i did try felt like I wasn’t as efficient and the knee pain was worse Long story short, why am I getting more knee pain from shorter cranks when all the science shows knee pain can be reduced?? Is it simple ergonomics? Or is there more to my knee issue?

I'm 5'7" with 30" inside leg, I've been running 155mm cranks for a year now and hill climbing is where I notice the gains as I feel stronger and I find myself accelerating up those hills. Biggest issue is finding affordable short cranks, but that has not stopped me from converting all my bikes.

I was in Pigeon Forge in October.. I didn’t know about this. I can’t wait to go back and ride it.

Longer cranks can lead to excessive knee compression and IT band problems, I can testify, a badly injured IT band actually ruined my summer riding in 2024, I'm 173cms tall, 78.5cms inner leg and have been on a 175mm crank, I'm doing a new XC build this year and I think will probably go to 170mm with a 34t ring

Ive seen in a few places that they still wont allow that bike even if the battery is out. I take it you havent ran into that.

Lol! Quick everyone get new crank arms.😂 Sell them part!

Yup. With squats, 1/2 range are way easier vs. full range. I went from the OE 170mm to 155mm Canfield and love 'em! Feel reduced fatique and pretty much eliminated dreaded pedal strikes. I'm 5'11 w/32" inseam. Nice vid. 👍

Fishbowl

I really like the build and how clean you cut the brake hoses and the dropper cable.. Nice and tight.. the little things do matter!!

Can’t wait to try mine. Just ordered it a week ago!

Thanks! Four years later this is the review I was looking for with the comparison between the PCS 10.2 also!

Not sure how I missed this video but I am adding this awesome looking trail to the list. What's it like down there with the freeze-thaw this time of year?

155s all day on my 2016 Levo for five years

You should try the evil following. Thing is an amazing machine. Not sure which came first but I’d say it’s definitely a contender.

i did notice you need a higher cadance in the granny gear which can bike the bike more squirelly

I really like this! There's a ton of Gucci builds on YT and they're amazing but I don't need that. This has got me thinking...

Not a doctor 😂😂😂😂😅

I love riding my CX bike on XC trails! I have a really good "regular" gravel bike already, but am looking for something for bigger, chunkier stuff- this looks like just the ticket. You made it look SOOOO fun! I need to get one of these. (Also considering the Kona Ouroboros, but haven't done much research on that yet.)

how big is the wooden drop ??

Being 6’7”and 35” inseam at 260 lbs what is best for me for my Bosch powered superior emtb

I'm 6'4" 62 yr old been riding mtb and mx for many years. Run 155s on both my bikes and no issues with feet being closer together other then when upright have keep knee bend to keep mass lower. No different then i do riding my kx 450 with feet together so normal to me.

I'm 6'4" ride 155 on Turbo Levo and Santa Cruz Heckler. No issues. I also weigh 205 and with lower bottom brackets pedal strikes are issue. Not with 155s . One of best additions on my bikes.

Would be a sweet bike if SC didn't absolutely rip off customers with their garbage specs up until you spend 7k+

This video is well done, thought out, and well explained. I’m also a physical therapist and discuss this a lot with patients! The most important thing you mentioned was definitely the muscle length tension relationship in the pedal stroke and the range of motion/overall volume. I will play devils advocate, thoughts on the shorter crank and its increase on overall volume for an individual who already has an overuse injury such as very irritable achilles tendinopathy? Obviously they can limit their time on the bike while injured, but this is just for discussion so say they don’t? Your thoughts on the increased rpm/overall volume in this case? Thanks dude!

great video, i've been adjusting my 3 boys bikes and trying different crank sizes from aliexpress, the default 175cm are just way too big. I ride 175s, i'm 5foot11 with 32" leg, i think 170 would be the next trial for me, 165 may help with my sore knee when riding

Lets talk about short people...

Just picked up a medium spur Frame only.. Beginning to think maybe I should’ve got a large 510 I haven’t built it up yet!!

Uh, what about moving the seat up to the height current geometries are designed for? That would probably negate 99% of any difference in long-term efficiency and mechanics, I would guess, while maintaining intended bike geometry. Still, I could see shorter cranks for shorter riders if the overall bike design allows for it.

your head looks like it was artificially enlarged in after effects. Great Video!!

Thank you for the review from _Germany_ ! Sadly there is currently no distributor for _TRANSITION Bikes_ here in Germany.

So much strange justification in this video. Shorter cranks = less torque, it's physics. If you're the kind of rider who just gets off your bike when things get difficult going uphill, ride your short cranks and enjoy! Don't tell me there's no difference though, that's a lie. You have an obvious bias.

In the 1970s and 80s cranks were closer to correct than they have been in the 21st century. I’ve not heard why cranks got too long. What I do know is that I can sustain a higher speed and longer on my 1986 Specialized Hardrock than I can on any of the 2010 and after bikes I have owned. All of my bikes are size M. 1986 has 170 cranks. All of my 2010 and after bikes are 175. My ability to smoothly spin is noticeably better on 170 cranks.

I'd go shorter, but finding short cranks for a Shimano drivetrain is a tall order. 5Dev doesn't seem to want to play in the Shimano sandbox.

was interested to change until I realized thanks to you that 10mm I would win toward pedal strikes I will need to add in saddle and handlebar height I'm already way high on a M bike not sure I want to make it worse, I think I'll try 155 with cheap cranks we'll see btw for people who haven't tried a modern e-mtb they work with cadence only you cannot force it to go faster by pushing hard on the pedals like a regular bike because you aren't driving the chain the motor is and thus they need you to maintain 80-100 cadence and their speed is directly related to cadence so shorter cranks seems very interesting for them, you also almost never stand as they need your weight on the rear wheel for grip

Excellent Description of how Shorter crank lengths can benefit everyone. The MTB community is finally learning we’re not riding road bikes. We’re riding mountain bikes. Going to try a set of E wings at 160mm on my brand new transition spur build. Also gonna do a hybrid drive train set up with the rear derailer being transmission Along with the shifter.. The rest is gonna be the older 12 speed eagle cassette xo1 And chain. I also like to run the absolute black 32 tooth Oval chain ring!! Should be a killer set up along with the new pike ultimate at 130mm On the front fork! Bike should be about 26 pounds along with the Enve carbon stem And 25 mm rise carbon bar!

How it compares to the smuggler?

Google is EVIL dude...

What are you doing, you dont climb up steep stuff standing. Raise that seat up and use it to climb, you'll get better grip by far with some weight on the rear end. If you dont feel you get a full leg extension then your post is too short, you want the max height of your dropper to make your toes dip down on the pedals at the bottom of each legs pedal stroke while sitting, climbing trails standing is pretty much never recommended and is extremely inefficient in general. I had to break that habit from 25+ years of BMX street riding where climbing up street hills standing is the only possible way to climb, but thats manicured terrain compared to mountain trails. Your seat should be just above your hip bone give or take a little depending on your leg length to overall height ratio, tailor it to fit you so your pedal strokes result in full straightened legs when that seats up. I'm only 6'1 and I have to run a 210mm dropper because I want all that height from the post while still being able to slam my seat to the frame like a BMX whenever I'm not climbing. Seat usage is extremely important in climbing and far more efficient, you'll get up steeper gradients too, you just have to lean forward hard to keep the weight distributions. This seemed like a well put together video at first, then the riding clips began and I had to comment, you just dont stand to climb on an MTB, its just not a thing. This is coming from someone navigating Vancouver Island trails regularly, no one else stands on steep climbs here either, and our trails arent exactly chill, especially the climbs. As for the shorter crank arm, I think it will vary from rider to rider as to what they prefer, I can see some disadvantages to both sides, the pedal strike issue is very real, but also a factor no matter than crank arm length in many circumstances, better to just learn to not strike your pedals to begin with. As for the leverage, a longer lever can be used for applying greater force in certain circumstances, like allen keys, some bolts only need to be tightened enough that you can tighten or loosen with the long end holding the short end or a T handle. Some allen bolts like on a BMX female hub you need a longboy or to just plain use a ratchet and socket to get the leverage required (you have to tighten BMX wheels very tight especially if you run pegs and like a tight chain but dont use a chain tensioner) So its no question that a longer lever has its advantages too. You just have to find out what you like, and more options is always better, shorter riders might really benefit from shorter cranks to match their shorter bikes, I know Children's bikes have shorter cranks and it makes sense for them. But we also know road riders use even longer cranks and have been doing so forever now, and there is just as much or more R&D going into every angle of road cycling for ergonomics and speed gains, so there must be something to those 180 or more length cranks they use. I think 170 is probably a great starting point for medium to large sized mountainbikes, although the medium might even consider a 165 stock, and small 160. But I dont see 155 or less being stock on any bike anytime soon, I could be wrong, but its just like how most 12 speed bikes have either a 30t or 33t sprocket, my neighbour thats been riding for 40 years or so and spent many years on the north shore uses what looks like a 25 or less tooth sprocket as he tends to mountain goat up ridiculously steeps stuff that doesnt even seem possible. I dont believe any company is putting 25 or less tooth sprockets on their bikes stock either, but its clearly has a use, it also reduces top end speed, but how hard of a gearing do you really need on an MTB considering some downhill riders have been winning races without chains lately, if you just rely on momentum for downhill then the only time you'd ever really want a hard road bike esque gearing is for cross country/gravel type riding when you want to just go really really fast, maybe going down a logging road for whatever reason instead of the trail you just climbed up to, I dont know.

I am almost 6'3", with long legs. I was always very skeptical of shorter cranks and always used 175 mm ones. But one day I tried 165 mm cranks on my heavy PropainTyee...I swear by them now, what an amazing difference when climbing and on longer rides they make. My legs just get much less tired so I can ride higher and longer. Better gorund, rocks, roots etc clearance too. And I have not noticed any drawback.

I recently got into biking and looked at the geometry on quite a bit of bikes. I thought it was crazy that there was only a 5mm difference with cranks between bike made for 5' tall riders and riders over 6'.