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I wouldn't worry about the stock fuel system, i ran e85 with no blending just fine. Are you planning to get a 4port aux fuel kit if so get it thru elliot specialized performance, its a radium kit that he sells and its top notch and the price is cheaper than the rest.

@@WhiteblurrST okay cool , i appreciate it i will. been using your videos to knowledge myself more lol haha appreciate the content man!

Yea i appreciate you, thats the idea for my videos is to provide my experiences with this platform. Ever since owning my st for 12 years its been a constant evolution in different setups.. testing things out.

Definitely wont forget

My first 2 oil changes was Rotella T1 sae30 conventional oil, i had +1 extra oil clearance, the Rotella T-4 15w40 isnt a synthetic oil, its 90% conventional. I would run 5w40 conventional sure, t4 Rotella has 1300ppm of zinc so thats why i ran it after the initial break in stage. Hopefully that helps buddy.

@@WhiteblurrST i’ve been using royal purple full synthetic 5w30 i have 51k miles now, also i have a f150 with a 2.7 ecoboost i’ve been using the shell rotella t6 5-40 would that be fine to keep using and is it a good oil for both my engines ? even in the winter ? i’m not sure if the t6 is full synthetic or not cause u said use conventional, and yeah it helps a lot i’m 18 and i’m somewhat hard on my car and truck and maintain the hell out of them so i want to keep them healthy and run as long as possible my f150 has 150k miles so far and still runs amazing ( i used to drive far to work )

You run 5w30 in a 2.3 ecoboost? I believe 5w50 is what you should run in those, the 2.7 i ran 5w30 or in California id run 10w40 personally.. turbos love 40weight the best. We had a 2019 2.7 stx love the truck, i recommend getting the cvf intercooler for it and if you want a discount let me know ill hook you up. Easy install on the f150 its like 15 mins.

@@WhiteblurrST yeah my oil cap and owners manual and everything says 5w30 for the 2.3 including everybody else runs that’s also so i will switch over to 10w40 for both or i could do 5w50 in the 2.3 and 10w40 in the 2.7, what oil would u recommend per that weight ? would u go rotella or something else

5w40 would be fine for the 2.7, but the 2.3 ecoboost in the RS calls for 5w50 but the 40 weight works good too. Honestly you would get better protection running Pennzoil platinum or Ultra platinum from Walmart 5 qt jug, its better than T6 in my opinion because it has a cleaner base oil stock which is refined from natural gas and it has Tri-Nuclear Moly in it which is 3x concentrated than regular moly and protects better. Idk if you can get 5w40 in that but i would.. Rotella T5 has better additives than t6 like zinc.

The subaru, it was racing a fiesta ST which was behind. I had a iwg 7163efr and the blue st had a gtx3076 g2 panda built motor, we both had around the same power on oem fuel.

Yea thats how it comes, you catch the fluid in the plastic container and pressurize the brake resevoir to 15psi, idk how anyone can mess this up unless you over pressurize it then yea.. just dont go over 15psi. I dont put fluid in the big pressure tank either, you can but i rather fill the brake resevoir up with fresh fluid until the old stuff is flushed out and clean.

​@@WhiteblurrSTawesome. Thanks for the info. It seems extremely straightforward. It only seems like you can mess this up if you don't keep fluid in the reservoir, which shouldn't be a challenge 😂

Yea, dont let the reservoir go dry basically. Its not hard at all, appreciate the support.

Thanks 😊

Yea im just wanting to change things back to simple.

@@WhiteblurrST I'll be tuned in to the 'rebuild' as that sounds like the way id like to go.

@@WhiteblurrST thoughts on the Clayton performance offerings?

Buy my turbo, im selling it for 3k as a kit. Identical size as g30-770, only 2100 miles, spools great, comes with clayton dp, scooter manifold, tial 44mm wg, lines, dump pipe. The turbo and manifold equal more than 3k alone lol

Im wanting simplicity, going back to my roots of having a 7163efr which i still havr sitting and which i ran from 2015-2019. Its my favorite turbo for this car.

@@WhiteblurrSTwhat type of power were you getting with the old setup 7163efr

The 7163efr can make 520whp on a 2.0 setup and 2.0 head at 29psi, but i liked the 360-400whp range honestly. It spools like 2867 gen2 but flows like 3071gen2.

@@WhiteblurrST i have 3071 gen 2 gonna get xdi pump and injectors and go to max her out

Nah im done doing that stuff, my g35-900 setup was gonna get me into trouble lol. Im gonna keep it mild

I wanna go to oem+ , i still got my 7163efr kit. I just wanna calm down on the car and have it close to what i had from 2015-2019.

Build didn't last too long eh

I wanted to go back to something simple, everything is in great condition.

I wanna go back to a more basic setup, like i had from 2015-2019 so i can enjoy my car more.

Thought you were selling the car for a minute. Haha whew! 😅

No fuckin way lol! Im dedicated. I just wanna simplify the setup, its all about learning and testing things for myself.

@@WhiteblurrST fair enough. Haha

Yeah no worries, im not going anywhere. Im most likely just gonna have my shortblock run h beams, manleys, oem bearings, new st head, oem fuel system 93 tune, act clutch, 7163efr which i still have sitting around.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Its funny because i do have a couple small oil leaks i need to fix, appreciate the support buddy.

Thanks!!

Thanks!!

Thanks

I appreciate it buddy.

Appreciate it man.

You need to remove the passenger axle and shave off the top portion of the axle C bracket to fit the compressor housing since its huge. Other than that check out the "How to Videos series" i got turbo setup and prime turbo oil in that playlist.

You can tighten it without tuning absolutely, thats why its free horsepower. It holds boost better this way. Keep an eye on your monitors obviously to make sure your good!

What kind of climate do you live in? I would do 5w30 for winters if its cold and 10w40 for summer. Use m1-209a or FE-3600 Oil Filter itll fit 6qts this way easy.

@@WhiteblurrST thank you, I’m in the Central Valley in California it’s still kind of hot daytime but i work nightshift so it’s around 60 Fahrenheit night time driving

@@WhiteblurrST also i still haven’t done my transmission oil at this mileage and I’m not too sure which brand i should use, should i run that amsoil fluid?

Yea get amsoil XL 10w40 being in California its warm there mostly year around. I would also get 75w90 amsoil manual transmission fluid. Its definitely gonna protect better than any dctf fluid.

www.fswerks.com/products/pbe100?srsltid=AfmBOorMOSHL949ppandwesEnHyDZOXxQeQO924RJxtB10gW4WiK-wZ-

I got this one from fswerks.com

Thanks man

Which one did you buy?

Motive Products 0107 Ford Three Prong Power Bleeder w/ Adapter

Stock internals but around 420bhp ish

Heat definitely doesnt help correct, wmi i would highly recommend it. Did you watch my aem water-meth video? Go check it out.

@@WhiteblurrST i did my friend thankyou 👊🏻

Awesome

Its not needed, you can disconnect it from the solonoid and the pump, put a small rubber cap on the quick connect on vac pump. Being a short i cant explain everything unfortunately.

That avalon is also a v6 3.5, they are great cars but that doesn't mean anything in comparison. This video explains the best way to reach 280whp-300whp, not crank hp like the 267hp avalon, the st stock is 252 and 270 in 2013 with a 2.0 and tiny ko3 turbo. This is a starter build video providing info for new ST owners.

Btw i own a few toyotas and love them.

@WhiteblurrST I tip the hat to you sir your completely right.

Appreciate it, i love toyotas so its all good buddy.

Thanks!

Who is Colin Mcrae?

ruclips.net/video/hL6PtbfZlfA/видео.htmlsi=eThBjtI1FUDF04Wa

Those rally guys are a different kind of breed for sure. Appreciate the support!

Appreciate that!

Why would i do that? Its a fun car.

Yea exactly, push down gas pedal all way down and clutch at same time, you can compression test your car like this too.

@@WhiteblurrST really!? Thats so convenient. It doesnt spray fuel ?

No it doesn't, it disables the injectors! Its very convenient. Here is a link for doing compression test which explains exactly what i mentioned basically. www.stratifiedauto.com/blog/how-to-perform-a-compression-test-on-a-ford-focus-st/

Ive owned mine since 2012, its not a normal ford focus but in your eyes maybe.. i tell everyone its just a focus also... its definitely more fun that way! 😁 🤣

Gm is actually more notorious for this problem especially on the malibu

Yeah, i figured eliminating a potential problem is a good move and it cleans up the engine bay.

Sounds interesting 🤔

Its possible, ive never owned a Mercedes tho.

I have no brake issues, feels like oem.

That’s for your brake assist under low manifold vacuum situations.

Bc a turbo engine dosnt have vacuum for power brakes all the time

Turbos create positive pressure. Brake booster uses a vacuum diaphragm for assist.

Every company has a motor that puts it there, there's a reason for it to be there

Exactly true, i don't hit my brakes under boost typically.

The focus RS block shatters at 450whp correct being open deck and weak design, not the ST block which is semi closed deck like the MZR speed 3 block which can handle 700whp until it needs sleeves. * My ST makes 550whp at 27psi and typically the rs guys use st blocks or speed3 blocks or the new ts block. www.enginelabs.com/news/2-3-liter-ford-hits-770whp-shatters-stock-focus-st-block/

Ummm no they don’t. Plenty of guys pushing that number with stock internals forged internals can get you 500+ reliably

RS block is definitely weaker but not the ST block, the weak point on the ST is the cast pistons, the RS weak point is rods bending or blowing out because of the stock turbo tq curve.

No honestly, but i didn't notice much with a bsd either on the revs, but im sure it helps a certain % if you compare.

No problem