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@@navpreetsingh8156 to put directly onto the monitor? For a directors monitor, sure, on camera, that's a bit much. Or you power it how I do and use a V-mount battery on the back of the rig to power everything

@@luthandogalada748 it's been up for over a year, but it should not be hard to find on my channel

@darkexpose5153 it's almost as if action cameras are designed to have ridiculously good stabilisation, be tough and that's about it. It's also way easier to stabilise smaller sensors and action cams are also heavily digitally stabilised, rather than mechanically. Different tool for a different purpose

@@BangkokExplorer as far as I know, that isn't an issue that can happen with HDMI. I haven't had any issues with either powering everything from the battery or the plate

@FranzMetrixs go check out the video I made about those a couple of months ago, it might answer your questions

@SethDunlap glad it helped. If you are planning on getting it from Kondor Blue directly, if you use the link in the description it does help me out. All good if not, hope it works well for you!

@@itmeremy you got it!

@@LoveUniqueStudios that could be one way to do it. In run and gun settings, I generally use the zebras at 94 and then go as bright as possible without clipping, unless it's a bright light that has to clip

@castmaven I've never used the FX6 but I'm pretty sure it doesn't have the same metering settings as the mirrorless cameras because that style of metering is more of a photography thing. Most people use the waveform for exposure that's in the Video Signal Monitoring settings

@@itmeremy ah I see thanks!!!

@LaloRacer1 yeah that's a pretty standard thing with mirrorless cameras with IBIS, definitely not just the a7IV, and definitely not an issue

@@lordwindsor fair enough, I have heard similar things before

@elaroussinoureddine9801 VNDs are generally also polarisers, which can cause issues sometimes. You cannot control the polarisation separately from the ND, though. If you add a separate filter, you could see some vignetting because you're stacking filters further away from the lens. I'm not 100% sure about this but adding essentially a 3rd polariser, may add to the ND effect, making it significantly darker, maybe

@@itmeremy so, what would you recommend to get the nice blue colours of water and sky in a sunny day?

@elaroussinoureddine9801 For video, an ND is kind of necessary for outdoor shooting. There are other VND/CPL combo filters which could work. Or you could go with a polariser and a set of solid NDs

The Air 2 doesn't have a native vertical mount so you'd need to mount the camera vertically by attaching the QR plate to the side of the camera. To do that you would need either a cage or L bracket, or one of those horizontal-vertical rotating mounts

@BillAshtonNelo compression will always be an issue with wireless systems. If you have a Pyro S and the image doesn't look good, maybe make sure you're in HD mode, unless you care about latency more, but it sounds like you don't. Higher end systems will of course be way better but a Pyro S and Terdek Bolt are so different, don't even get me started on the price

@Sky_633 not what I've found with the handles I have. It was a point I was going to bring up because the Tilta handle I have doesn't fit on the Smallrig low profile NATO rails, but the Smallrig NATO handles that I have work fine on the Tilta plate. I think it very much depends on the handle since for some reason there's some variation in the NATO mount

@armondobbabone8556 oh ok, interesting. I wondered what that was for. I might try that to see if it works, but on my other rig, I use the Kondor Blue V mount Pro so I want all my batteries to work on both my rigs

@ethanrhanielle2474 absolutely, that pretty much sums it all up. Your point about image quality is similar to what I said at the start of the video about it being about features, rather than specs

@@itmeremy yah I just wish more folks on RUclips said this you’re just a breathe of fresh air. There’s two camps and they’re either “you HAVE to have this x piece of equipment to be “cinematic” or there’s the camp that tries to say their GH5 is basically an arri if they put it on rails and add a vmount.

@ethanrhanielle2474 fair enough, I've definitely seen both of those camps before and I agree. Glad I can be a breath of fresh air, I am the type of person who appreciates nuance and context

@@audioarkitekts that's probably something I could organise, but I've never really considered selling LUTs since I don't do anything special with my grading. You could quite easily make your own to be very similar by using the same steps I did in this video. But I might consider making and selling LUTs if people are genuinely interested

@ChinaUndiscovered that makes sense. Using a gimbal is also it's own skill, and of course has it's own look. I don't like setting up gimbals and I much prefer using a handheld rig over gimbals as well. As long as you can handle the weight, a solid handheld rig I think is much more versatile too

@@itmeremy generally speaking the weight isn't a major issue. though after long hours, I could see how it is inconvenient. would you still say handheld rigs provide a decent amount of stabilization? natural movement and such is fine but I certainly don't want every shot to look like a chase scene in a horror film.

@ChinaUndiscovered yeah it definitely does make a difference. A heavier rig will have way less of the little shakes that a super light rig will have. Plus there's other ways to add more stability if needed. Actually, one of my most recent videos is on that topic, maybe go check that out, it might help more than whatever I can say here. Here's a link to it: ruclips.net/video/43p9j5rnm2M/видео.html

@@itmeremy great, I’ll be sure to watch soon thank you!

@benjamin.kelley very true, I do that most of the time now too

@dspoet1 I'm curious why you "had to quit watching" just because there's no timestamps. What were you looking for that you couldn't find by just skipping through? Also, each segment is a different shot so you can visually see the difference. I appreciate the suggestion, but I don't really think it's necessary, it's not that kind of video

@@Coach_Oyama glad I could help

what the hell are you talkin about bro? god damn it you're weird

@owenjenkinsofficial totally fair. I've never had that issue with the HDMI clamp but I definitely hear you about the NATO rail on the left being too short. The new Hawklock one from Smallrig might be better but I haven't tried it to know for sure

@@Filmmaker593 superior as in cleaner? Because I wouldn't be surprised about that, although a couple of the Athenas apparently have some noticeable CA. I think the Arles look more pleasing, which I'm not going to say is better, but it kinda is.

@@laurenaguayo if you're talking about the screen, then that's clearly a different camera

@Buwuhbuwuh well you can't put it behind the VND, you could definitely put it as the 2nd filter. Is there a particular reason that you think it should be the closest to the lens?

@@itmeremy just based on what I’ve read online that diffusers should be closest to the lens. If it’s not a problem then good because I’m waiting for my swift set to arrive in the mail lol

@Buwuhbuwuh fair enough, there may very well be a reason for that, I've never tested it or really heard anyone else mention it so if it does make a difference, I doubt it'd be a huge one

@@itmeremy sweet, thanks for replying!

@outfitterdigitalmedia433 yes, I generally run it powered from a V-mount battery using the D-Tap to DC cable that comes with it. You can also run it off 1 or 2 NP-F batteries

@anthonysosa6792 that can happen on wide lenses when you stack multiple filters. The further out the filters are from the lens, and the wider the FOV of the lens, the more likely you are to see some vignetting. There's not really any way to avoid it apart from not stacking all the filters, or not shooting on such wide lenses.

@domenicavalencia3815 I've never used it so I can't really recommend for or against it. It doesn't appear to be particularly heavy though, but you can get it with a support that attaches to rods so if the weight is an issue and you have rods on your rig, you should be fine. If you're going for a much smaller rig, maybe a simple filter might be better than a mattebox

@itmeremy appreciate the quick response. And, thank you for the advice! By the way, I love your channel-your content is both entertaining and informative 👏

@domenicavalencia3815 no worries, good luck with it. And thank you, I appreciate that

@juanthyme1569 open gate would be great but for some reason Sony only puts that in the Venice and nothing else

@CompositionProductions Absolutely, controlling your breathing is super important. And yes, that one of the things I like about the Sakk, how it keeps that natural looking handheld movement, but gets rig of the jerky, unpleasant ones

@@elmachin5933 I don't think so, I don't know much about the a7II because it's pretty old, but I don't think it would have CFexpress Type A card slots

@RITHFF I already did, it was posted back when this one was

@dragonredlodge no, that's not how that works. The adaptor is so you can use other Swift filters without the VND base, because the VND is the one filter in the system with a thread, so you have to screw it on no matter what. You could do that with the 4 stop solid ND, but not the variable one

@@itmeremy Thanks for the quick reply. Should I expect some loss of sharpness if I leave the VND on for still photos?

@@dragonredlodge that I'm not quite sure