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Keep on keeping on Owen!

Update on the monitor Updates in general ?

If both your forward and aft stays are slackening, and all fittings seem OK, it might suggest your mast foot has sunk a bit. possibly consistent with water ingress in that area. I would check the mast step support structure (probably after pretending I hadnt seen it for a while)

Its a good idea to double your clamps on thru hull fittings.

These videos are extremely useful. Thank you! and good luck

Nice to see how well it is running now🎉

Learn her prop walk tendencies also

Jus picked me up this exact motor today, barnyard find in mint condition and runs!! Original tool kit and spare shear pins and cotter pins never been touched. Glad I found you and TY

Nice. So 173 in-lbs torque on the injector hold-down bracket. I better get one of those wrenches before I swap out my injector. Also did you have to bleed fuel at the injector after doing it at the high pressure pump?

one my motor it was the rubber grommet that is installed on topp of the waterpump that was leaking water inside the lower unit and not pushing it all the way up thru the engine i solved the problem with a stainless steel zip tie around the rubber grommet slightly narrowing the grommet so it did not leak and it fixed the problem

Nir is cool and with a great sense of humor. Nice find on the chart plotter.

Great update as always. We adjust the backstay on our boat while racing, and when let off completely, the rig looks not unlike yours (loose forestay and rear lowers). If the mast compression exploration leads to naught you might harden up the backstay a little further to see if the rig comes back into shape.

I lost you for a while but it is good to have you back, Thanks

Good to see you again Owen, Thanks for the video

Enjoying the content

Does your dory include an engine access panel via the cockpit locker ?

Owen, with modern graphite flax for stuffing boxes you should not drip at all when the shaft is not rotating. None, zero. When you're motoring you should only have 5-6 drops per minute. That's really all it takes. I know it always feels to me like there should more but that is not the case. Don't forget that the tranny is reducing the engine rpm by at least half, some even more. So the shaft is only making a few hundred to maybe 1500 rpms, which is not much. And with graphite flax there is almost no friction at all. Tighten it up to where it doesn't drip at all when stopped. And then while you're tied in the slip put it in reverse and give it some rpm's. Watch it and adjust to a drop every 10 seconds. And then feel the stuffing box. It should not even get warm, and I bet it won't. Give it a try, I bet you'll be surprised. I was ! Lol. And it keeps your bilge much dryer. I have a habit of sponging it dry after a long motor. When I'm sitting, it stays dry, and that is good as it helps keep the boat drier and cuts down on possible mold.

Thank you Owen. I was impressed by ghe chart screen on the new Garmin. It looks clearer and beter than the much more expensive Raymarine unit I installed on my boat. Best wishes from England. James

Just my two cents for what they are are worth ; use a tape measure and a halyard to be sure the masthead is centered on the boat. Then establish tension between the head stay and the back stay. Go sailing in a variety of conditions and collect your experience as this will instruct your how far forward or aft to adjust your masthead. Then you can adjust your lowers accordingly. PM me if you want to talk about it, I would be happy to noodle with you .

Could your mast base have compressed? thereby shortening the mast to chainplate distance.

Thanks for your normal guy commentary. Couple of years ago it helped me get back into sailing. So thanks!

Hi Owen. I just acquired a Cape Dory 25D. I am learning about the joys of seacocks. I have a question: In the cockpit compartment, on the port side, what is that seacock used for? The former owner thought it is for pumping out the holding tank. However, when I showed a photo on the Cape Dory Fans Facebook page, everybody swore it is for the cockpit drain Do you know which it is? And if it's not for the cockpit drain, there where is the seacock for the cockpit drain? I realize you video is a few years old, so I hope you're still around. Thanks.

Nice! I fell behind in the videos and had to binge watch to catch up. Great work, per usual, Owen … Patience pays off!

Ain't life grand.

He’s back

Congratulations, and it is good to see your friend with you. She looks like a nice person to be with.

Well done old chap!

Congratulations! Can't wait to see you out on the river. Would you be interested in meeting up with a few more Cape Dory owners in the Portland area?

Excellent!!! I will admit to enjoy the closed caption comment regarding the state of the fuel bleed early on…. Been there don’t that, and done it again. Still doing it. No bubbles allowed at the bleed sight; bleed until flow is solid. But you know this, and I repeat the same mistake. Get a pack of disposable diapers and keep one under the engine maybe, that is what I do. Fair winds and following seas!

Congratulations 2

Hi Owen!. congratulatios

Owen, so very nice to see the completion of the engine project, you did a great job. I have three tips I would like to pass on from my experence. Take it with a grain of salt cause you heard it on the internet. Packing gland- I also have a traditional gland that dripped excessively even when the engine was off. I was able to adjust it (after a repack) until it only drips a couple of times a minute when the engine is running. I inspect it frequently for drip rate and heat build-up but I haven't had to adjust it now well over 100 hours. Fuel lift pump- my system came with a similar pump hard wired to the ignition switch. I highly recommend doing this as you will never have to use the manual pump again. To bleed with this setup, I just turn my key to on (not started) and crack open the first bleed point downstream of the pump and work my way out toward the injector. There will be slight pressure increase so check the copper washers on the bleed points and hose fittings, technically they are a one time use and seep a bit after multiple cycles. New regulator- I also had to change mine and yes, my first effort ended up with F and R swapped. I did learn after referring to the engine manual that the adjustment of when they are in F and R is critical. Apparently with my model the transmission will engage but slip slightly if the adjustment is not correct. I found that the easiest way to verify the shift arm is in the correct position was to disconnect the cable from the arm, mark the position on the transmission case for each position F-N-R. Then reattach the cable and make sure the regulator cable is not holding the arm slightly off of those marked positions as I put it in each position I have no reason to believe yours is wrong but passing it on as a precaution. Enjoyed the video as alway, Dan of S/V Drifter

Congratulations on all the engine work. The motor sounds great. Must be a real sense of accomplishment.

I was trying to tell you to put the heat shrink on !

Having spent the day in my lazarette, replacing my diesel heater, i am glad to see a fellow contortionist at it! Well done Owen. All the best from England. James

Can’t wait till the next video

so enjoyable, real life owen, makes it so watchable. keep them coming.

Can you give us the dimensions of all elements?

Very nice tour. I'm looking at buying one. I like that it's a full keel and can go offshore. I like the designer of it too....

I really appreciate your project. And I am glad to you posting more again. I have been on board from the beginning and am looking forward to more, wherever it takes you! Fair winds and following seas!

Well done Owen! A bargain, i think! Best wishes from England.

You should've unbolted the coupling after you pulled it together, THEN checked alignment. I think your shaft just slipped aft, as yet, you haven't actually aligned everything so it will likely vibrate.

This is the most honest review on this motor I've seen. I have recently purchased a similar model and I intend to give it a full overhaul, I think they are great outboards. Thanks for posting. Best wishes from Northern Ireland 👍

Hey Owen I enjoy watching your videos as I too am wanting a Cape Dory or an Alberg 30 for a restoration project. I have to ask what is the headroom in the cabin? I am 6’1” and don’t want to stoop down to walk around inside. I am in central Washington aways from sailable water. If you have a line on a project boat, I’d take a look. Do you currently still have the 3 boats?

owen, you've overcome the big hurdels, all easy sailing from now on in. thx, always enjoyable and llok forward to many more.

Glad to see you back Owen. Please post a little more frequently.🚢

Owen, Scanmar Marine has the Cape Dory 25 on their list of boats they've had Monitors installed on. They could probably make up the mounting tubes for it.

Am fixing to refit a 25d myself so thanks for the info and ideas.

Owen, you can get a welder to spot weld those corrosion points with stainless stick/tig/mig. Then grind smooth, and you'll never even know they are there. Nice score. Good too see again.

Good to see you post again 🎉