- Видео 18
- Просмотров 60 134
Marty Malloy
Великобритания
Добавлен 5 авг 2023
24V Adjustable Vacuum Generator in action.
Another Ixel Mech Design video..
Following my last video, lets see my compact electric vacuum generator pick up a few bits that I had lying around.
24V Vacuum Generator - Replaces Venturi (Pneumatic) Vacuum Generators
Never worry about vacuum air consumption again.
Following my last video, lets see my compact electric vacuum generator pick up a few bits that I had lying around.
24V Vacuum Generator - Replaces Venturi (Pneumatic) Vacuum Generators
Never worry about vacuum air consumption again.
Просмотров: 65
Видео
24V Electric Vacuum Generator - There's always failure on the journey to success.
Просмотров 5099 часов назад
FAIL FAST AND MOVE ON Here we have my 24V variable vacuum generator. This was born of my belief in not being afraid to fail. This was my 5th attempt at overcoming a problem for Expert Technologies Group. That's right, I failed 4 times before I achieved success. Yes, I had people say "I told you it wouldn't work" and "You're flogging a dead horse". However, every time I failed I learnt something...
Bambu P1P P1S X1C - Tricky Supports
Просмотров 536Год назад
Here I share my experiences printing a particulartly difficult part, with multiple overhangs, on my Bambu printer. Supports can be difficult on FDM printers, including the Bambu. Here I go through in detail (a lot of detail) how I solved the issues that a friend was hgaving in printing a particularly tricky tree, If you want to contact me about anything, or have any problems that you want me to...
Modular Battletech Map & Terrain - Developing the Concept
Просмотров 457Год назад
In this video I show my stage 1 development of my modular battletech terrain. The plan is to produce a couple of different modular options, that you can print at home. The modular options will be developed to suit the different needs (and pocket sizes) of people. The files for these bits can be downloaded free of charge from Cults: Tiiles: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/hex-gaming-base-tiles-1-25...
Advanced Ironing Settings?? in BambStudio
Просмотров 6 тыс.Год назад
Following on from my last video on Ironing (where I adjusted the number of shell layers and the minimum shall thicknesses) I now take a look at another couple of options and investigate how they compare to what I did in my initial video. 0:00 - Intro 0:14 - Logo 0:21 - Overview 2:18 - Increasing the Top & Bottom Shell Layers and Shell Thicnesses 2:18 - Increasing the Infill Density 5:17 - Compa...
Bambu 3D Printer - Ironing Settings - Saucermen 6mm Terrain
Просмотров 28 тыс.Год назад
Bambu 3D Printer - Ironing Settings - Saucermen 6mm Terrain
Bambu Labs P1P and P1S - Variable Layer Height and Adaptive Layers
Просмотров 13 тыс.Год назад
Bambu Labs P1P and P1S - Variable Layer Height and Adaptive Layers
Bambu Labs - P1P to P1S Upgrade - Unboxing Video
Просмотров 537Год назад
Bambu Labs - P1P to P1S Upgrade - Unboxing Video
LOL! Another one! LOL!
This is awsome i was looking exactly for that!
You can not block the intake for to long because the motor needs the air stream to cool itself.
@@Blindbrick2 the unit (in this guise) relies on air movement, not solely pressure. There are vent holes in the nozzle which ensure sufficient airflow to keep the motor cool.
Send me one
So where was the actual Ironing configuration in the Quality tab?
Subscribed
where can i find it?
Thanks so much for your video. I am like you, I want to get the best quality out of my FDM that I can. Most videos show how to get more and more speed from their machines. I am more concerned with high quality. You showed some great tips that I will try.
So pleased I could help. Good luck with your printing.
Just got a printer and I've been testing and learning so much and since I'm completely new videos like yours where you make offhand comments about functions while talking about other functions are so good! 5:02 ADAPTIVE LAYER HEIGHT!!! This is genious!. I learned about the auto orient function in the same way it's such a huge time saver for some models
So pleased you liked the video. Good luck with your printing.
Thanks for these! Super clear explanations. The cutting of the layer for different amounts of infill is a perfect solution for some tall plain parts and detail on top that I'm designing now.
Well done!
Thank you.
just watched all your vids, you do an outstanding job of describing this stuff with usse full examples. thank man !
Really pleased you found the videos useful.
Inciteful for sure
Great and thorough video. Just discovered this feature tonight. Thank you!
I really wish the videos had an executive summary detailing the changes and results of each test. Some of us just want to plug in the settings and try to tune for ourselves...
Hi Marty, I watch your RUclips channel down here in Queensland Australia- I gotta say my mrs heard your voice and actually thought it was me talking. I grew up in Washington in the North East and moved down to oz 25 year ago. So I’m wondering which part of the North East are you from ?
Hi macnet1. Just noticed your post, sorry for the delay. I'm a County Durham lad, grew up in a little pit village called South Hetton. Left there when I was 18 in 1986, still got the accent, but it's mellowed a bit. I talk to the dog in my broad north Pit Yakker accent, so I reckon she's got an NE accent too. 🤣😂 I hope that, with you being from the old County Durham, you're red and white. 😁 🔴⚪🔴⚪🔴
@@MadMartMalloy Thanks for the reply mate I used to work as a Truck driver in South Hetton for a lad called Neil Ramshaw when I lived in Shiney Row ( or RAAAA as we called it), a million years ago. Great videos, by the way, I just bought my 3rd Bambu Lab this one being the mini as it was on sale and I had a discount voucher. Its the toon for me mate even though I went too Sunderland Uni as well :)
I can't remember a Neil Ramshaw. Only haulage company I remember is Burn Haulage, who have a yard behind Front Street next to the bridge (or should I say where the bridge was). Thanks for the compliment on the videos, unfortunately (or is it fortunately) my work has become so busy that I don't have chance to do them anymore. I also have a Bambu A1 Mini. They're fantastic little machines, I was tempted to buy another in the sale, but decided against it. I'm going for a little CNC to machine aluminium instead. I'm glad you made the move to Aus, one less Durham Mag can only be a good thing. 😉 Keep printing! Remember, you can never have too many printers!
i love to use it on some parts, but its always so slow doing it .. .wonder if theres a way to speed it up..
Thank you for making these on ironing. much appreciated!
Thanks for this video! Greatly appreciated
X1C is my first printer... learning the slicer and CAD designing at the same time has been tough, but this helps tremendously!!! Thank you for taking the time to teach the internet.
Hard to hear you in this video even with volume up all the way....
I've finally fine tuned my 3D terrain, which I use for Battle tech. It's fully configurable and all printed using an FDM printer. (Bambu A1) Should I do a Kickstarter for the STL files? Lots of ideas for stretch goals too.
By far the best video on this I've seen so far! I'm not nervous about that timeline on the side any more, thanks! BTW, your camera's orbit is based on the build plate that's selected, rather than the part. So when fiddling with parts on other build plates, always click on the plate to make it active 1st. Most people know this but it helped ease some frustrations for me so passing it on to more newbies lol
Thank you so much for the comment. Thanks for highlighting your tip too. I'll try and add that in next time I do a video.
Very Cool!
Thanks. See the links in the description to download for free from Cults.
This was extremely helpful, thank you. I needed to get some products out the door and I normally print without ironing. This helped me gain consistency in my results.
So pleased I could help.
I really appreciate your videos, they’re a great help for me as a beginner to the 3d printing world!
Thanks so much. Really nice to know that they're appreciated.
Great vid, Marty. TY
What were your experiences with 0.2 nozzle settings? I'm just making some 0.2 experiments on my own and I'm not satisfied with the quality yet. Especially regarding the much loonger print time which mostly comes from volumetric speed limitation settings. Did you experience with higher values there?
Sorry but the audio is horrendous.
Your audio is very bad
Fantastic Video, Thank You so much. I really have learned a lot from you.
Thank you for the positive review. It's really appreciated. Glad I could help.
You want a better quality? Slow down the beast. Speed and quality are opposite vectors and never meet
lol who's human eye? I don't get that part at all, sorry
Great how-to video ❤❤
left channel audio only - no right channel audio
Where can we find that test print that you used for this video?
I made it myself. I've been looking for it on my PC, but can't find it. As soon as I do I'll share it and let you know.
Hi Marty, stumbled on your channel, just about to get a P1P and looking how to best take advantage of it. Great explanation. Adaptive layers look great for domed parts, so will defo try that. How did you get that coloured layer graph on th eleft side? cannot find a control for it.
Hi Andrew. Select prepare mode at the top of the screen and then click on the part. Click on the variable layer height icon and the graph should appear on the left hand side. If you click the adaptive button, colours will display on the graph and you can tweak them. Thanks for your comment and enjoy your printer.
Just about all the people in my inner sphere of Battletech use 3d terrain. It's far more popular than using paper/flat maps in the US. In the US we tend to use tiles from the mass produced tabletop game Heroscape. With that as the foundation, we supplement the tiles with community created Battletech versions of the tiles that are available for free on places like Thingiverse. Seems like your reinventing the wheel on a lot of this.
Hi Bill Thanks for the comment. As stated in the title, this is very much the development of a concept and, as such, it has developed a lot in the short time since this video. The next video, which will be done next weekend, should demonstrate this. Rather than reinventing the wheel, we are evolving the wheel. If Heroscape is the stone wheel, hopefully this can be a step on the way to the wooden wheel. It's very much designed for the maker community and as such it is intended to continually evolve over time, with feedback from users and makers. While I know it won't suit everyone, different people have different needs and I'm fairly confident this will appeal to a good number of folk.
@@MadMartMalloy At first pass it seems like a lot of the 3d stl files already in the community. I'm curious as to where things are going to go in the future. Keep the videos coming so we can see the evolution.
I got the X1c as soon a s they dropped, and the 0.8 minimum top surface used to be part of the default profile for their slicer.
Excellent video - good steady explanation , with examples. Thanks from a newbie!
One more helpful tidbit. Change your infil to Gyroid instead of rectilinear.
Thanks for the tip. Appreciated. 👍
Is Gyroid the better infill?
@@giomjava Gyroid infill is generally better all around. Better strength, less material and faster print speed. CNC Kitchen did a thing on it.
@@rjakiel73 thank you!!
In my experience. Gyroid is much slower.
Thanks for the tips. I've always hated how ironing came out so I'll have to try it again with your suggestions.
Good luck. I hope the tips work out for you. Thanks for the comment.
Question. I just got a P1S can i leave mines on even tho im not printing or should i turn it off everytime after a print ?
There are lots of different opinions on this. So what I'm saying is just my personal one. When powering things up from start there is a small electrical shock to the system as electricity flows through the circuitry. Some electrical components are sensitive and if they have a miniscule flaw this surge can cause them to fail. I believe that it is for this reason, many devices (such as your telly) have a standby mode. As your printer doesn't have a standby mode, I recommend leaving it on. The power draw will be minimal. However, to protect the printer I would recommend connecting the power lead to a surge protected extension lead or socket. Mains supply can fluctuate a lot, which can have a devastating effect on circuitry, and it is worth having this protection.
Do i need to do a bed leveling after every print ? Or bed leveling after turning it off ( i have P1S )
I'm theory, once the bed is levelled, you shouldn't have to level again. In practice, things do move a bit and removing and replacing the plate will have an effect. Leave it and you could have 10 or 20 prints before you get a leveling problem, but then you need to deal with that problem. Personally, I prefer having the 3-4 minute auto leveling cycle at the beginning of each print. This way, the risk of any issues is significantly reduced.
I totally think I understood this. Thank you dude. I'm gonna go try this on my printers accessories case
Glad I could help. Good luck.
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Speech is only on the left audio channel, making it annoying if you, like me, leave the left ear uncovered by the headphones for hearing ambient noises ...
I had an issue with the software I initially used. Unfortunately I can't go in and edit this video now it's posted. I'll have to do a new edit and replace this one.
Was really good up until it went psychadelic at 16:06.
Hi. Thanks for the comment. I've just checked the video. At 16.06 I have an inset video appear. It appears to run fine on my PC though. Sorry that you never got to see/enjoy the whole video.
@@MadMartMalloy I powered through it, but the double echo was trippy. Great videos, btw. I'm on day 2 of my 3D printing career. Just got into it yesterday. I'm trying to absorb all the info I can, and your videos are delivering it.
@@LtGrandpoobah Aha, it was the sound. Yes, I had some sound problems on this video. I'm assuming you've bought a Bambu. Great choice, have fun with it. It's relatively pain free compared to other printers out there. If you're stuck on anything don't hesitate to drop me a message in the comments section.
Very good info! You should show us how to calc how fast they are printing like 50mm/s or 150mm/s I never could figure that out :) Bambu Slicer.
Great suggestion! I'll look into doing that. These prints were done at the default speed settings for PLA. (200mm/s outer wall 300mm/s inner wall and 270mm/s sparse infill). Obviously the actual speed will depend on acceleration and the distance moved. Hmmm? You've got me intrigued, I'll have to put this on my list of things to do.
Bought a P1S. Be here in a few days. If using WiFi to send info to printer, do you need to leave slicer open or can you shut it down after the send even when not using the cloud?
Congratulations on your purchase, you won't regret it. Once a file has been sent, the slicer will jump to the device screen. This will show you the progress of the job. Once the job has downloaded to the printer (normally takes about a minute) you can close the slicer and shut down your PC.