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The first thing I’d do is line the walls with insulation to help manage humidity and temperature changes. You’ll get less rusting that way.

What an excellent study. What I find strange is Gordon's coating is followed with duck oil yet it proves worse than the duck oil disc. I can only presume it is because the coating is water based?

Many anti rust coatings require a fairly thick coat to meet their specs. So applying them requires following the instructions. Applying very thin films will usually end up with all of them having about the same rust resistance. One day is marginal. If this fellows’ product requires so much work on such a small part, think of how much work it would take for an entire table saw, or other larger equipment, which, after all, is where the problems are the worst.

I use this stuff spray it on and leave it CRC® Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor

A nice experiment, very interesting.

hi again clive great work on the locking nut & using a key to align the keyway cutting tool was the only right decision. towards the end of the video i noticed you mentioned that the holders key would always keep the tool in alignment although when changing to the alternative bars how do you plan to maintain alignment, i wonder if you could have used a second key on the tool shaft itself in the same plane of the tool bore to remove the need for a crescent wrench and maintain alignment . thanks again for taking the time to make these films.

Used WD 40 for years and worked well for me and quite economical.

Brilliant work 👏 thank you for sharing I too have an Elliott 10m and need to make up the same tool for future keyway job's. Great work on the drafting nice to see it done properly without any fancy cad software. Threads looking great and looking forward to the next episode

Thank you for a brilliant corrosion study! I have used acf 50 a lot at work as an aircraft technician. We use it on the jet engines to prevent surface corrosion. It proves very efficient as it does not seem to dry out no matter how many heat/cold cycles it takes on during a normal aircraft operation.

I was one who recommend the ACF50. I use it on my lathe chucks (I too own a Colchester Student) and I don't get to use the lathe much these days. ACF50 is very good if you leave the machines standing for a while, but you dont need to clean it off the chuck before spinning it up. So its less messy. ACF50 was recommend to me by an RAF technician.

I think you got lucky with the WD-40. My choice is the Metalguard on price/performance, it noticably out performs the WD-40 over extended periods. Better still is Rocol Rust Shield spray or their Z30 spray, both are hideously expensive at around £40 per 300ml can but perform superbly, even outdoors.

Hi Clive. Thank you for showing this well thought out, and well executed experiment. I for one am very surprised by how well WD 40 performed. Could it be that by wiping the surface after spraying you achieved a nice even film something not possible by simply spraying?? All very thought provoking and useful. 👏👏👍😀

Hi Clive, living in Philippines, sub tropical climate I use WD 40, purchase in 4 litre can and apply with spray bottle regularly and works fine for me.

That's a very interesting experiment. Thanks for taking the time of doing this.

Excellent treatise on building heating, obviously this time of the year in the UK is worst case for many garage workshop combinations. I have installed machines with a non absorbing plastic pad under the jacking pads at a customer's request, this could assist in reducing heat loss, though obviously not humidity issues. HDPE or MDPE ( Kitchen cutting boards), is excellent for this. With regard to your specif heat calculation, I think you've assumed 100 % heat transfer, ref air as a medium, painted surfaces, thermal conductivity, plus many other variables? Not sure on your roofing construction, but maybe be mindful of blocking air flow. My 10 x 16 ft shed has 16 mm holes every 18" and remains dry. Thanks for sharing. Best regards John

Excellent testing protocol; I agree on the metal guard Ultra ref suitable for finer parts, and allows handling. Thanks for sharing.

Nice work mister. Yeah rust is a pain in the workshop, especially on your precision machines.

Excellent experiment - I’m not surprised the WD-40 performed well based on personal experience. I haven’t used ACF-50 but it certainly looks just fine. One way to refine your experiment to see if there is any further difference is to repeat it but completely degrease the samples before coating. However, your control sample rusted so thoroughly that you’re not likely to detect very much difference. Also repeating the experiment several times to observe repeatability - but it would be very much gilding the lily, so to speak. Great to see your hard work on your shop paying off. 👍

A very good review on rust.

Another fine and well constructed experiment with perfectly objective results obtained. Well done!

It is my experience with WD that it dries sticky and attracts dust. Duck Oil I have found to give the appearance of "disolving" rust. ie. when using it, quite successfully, on seized nuts and bolts, the liquid becomes like a rust soup. This has made me ponder on the composition of these two products that are sold to do the same job.

One thing you have to consider is the film retention on non-horizontal surfaces. Good test nonetheless, Water Displacement 40 does live up to its name 😂

Very interesting, thank you for taking the time to do this experiment.

You are spot on. It is unlikely you can control the humidity in your home shop, this requires expensive heating. The problem is controlling the dewpoint, as you correctly stated cold to warm weatherfronts are your enemies. I'm in New Zealand and have similar problems which is heartbreaking. I have written a short paper on this subject if you are interested.

I cover my lathe with a Calico dust sheet which I spray WD40 on the sheet every now and then. I also keep the lathe well oiled with a light lubricating oil like 3 in 1.

Really interesting video, but I'm sorry to say that it will take a lot longer to heat up your equipment than 3 hours due to the efficiency of heat transfer between your radiators and the cast iron. I think the main aim you can get to is ironing out the temperature fluctuations in your workshop; keep it constantly a few degrees warmer than the outside and the metal items in there should never be cold enough to cause condensation... in theory!

Probably 20 years ago an old machinist showed me how he solved this problem. He heated the bed of the lathe with electric heat tape. If the lathe is warmer than the dew point no condensation will form. And it doesn't need to be very warm, just above ambient. I found a dew point calculator and at 2C with 100% humidity you just need to keep it above 2C. If you try it consider making a video, almost no one in the hobby space on RUclips has ever discussed heating the tool to stop condensation.

Coat with ACF spray to prevent rust.

If you’re not disagreeable to leaving a fan running in there, you might find it stops condensation from forming.

How did you get the center pulley mechanism out. I am having a very difficult time loosening the 4 bolts that hold the vertical column onto the floor unit. Any suggestions ? Thanks and thank you for the videos. Bill.

As people have mentioned, the dew point is critical here. If the material in question is below the dew point temp then warmer air will give up moisture onto the cold surface. Air changing is also important to ensure the air in the room does not become too warm and wet, I.e. from people breathing out hot wet air in the room, undermining the work already done. That’s why modern window and door frames have trickle vents. When people close them you will start to see mould growth in corners of rooms and window jambs where the wall surfaces are coldest. Modern wall construction with foil covered insulation or plasterboards or plastic sheet lining between plasterboard and an insulted stud framework move the dew point away from the wall surface.

Very nice video. Yeah rust is a problem on precision machines, tools and stock. Nice work mister.

I use a "Govee" remote unit to track humidity, temperature and dew point. The recorded information is accessible/download able and printable for tracking.

Crc p350 (liquid) and LiquiMoly wax coating also good

I wonder if an experiment with a humidity meter (they are very cheap) might be interesting in your experiments - which I find of interest. I found that keeping my workshop temperature higher than the outside temperature helped significantly. Keep up the good work!

Hi Clive, probably like you, we are coming to the end of a long sub zero period with a warm front due and last night I put bags over my lathe chuck and the shaper table as they are always the worst for rust. Cheers

I have a similar single garage workshop in the UK. I’ve insulated the walls with 50mm thick polystyrene which I then boarded with 19mm thick OSB. The roof is flat and is insulated with 100mm thick mineral wool between joists and boarded with 12mm thick OSB. I have a fibreglass up and over full width vehicle access door and have insulated that with hardboard faced 50mm thick polystyrene panels which are placed in the inside and can be removed so I can use the door to move machines in and out of the workshop. There is a normal “personnel” door and a double glazed window. My solution for condensation is a domestic desiccant dehumidifier which you can set to maintain a desired humidity value. It cost about £130 and has eliminated condensation and rust. It’s rated at 350watts and slightly heats the air it circulates. It has a 2 litre water container but can be plumbed in so condensate can be routed outside. I don’t think my garage floor has a damp proof membrane so the dehumidifier often removes 2litres of water every 3 or so days.

Just one electric heater on a low thermostat setting is enough to keep the air dry and your workshop above freezing. The heater coils help dry the air. Yes its costs but its that or rust on your sideways

With that insulation, the aluminized side should on the side where the air comes in. Otherwise the air penetrates to the foil backing and you get little actual insulation other than that the air penetration into the space itself is stopped. Additionally, the aluminum backing prevents moisture from penetrating through the insulation to the foil. It can be calculated as to how fast metal warms up, or cools off by measuring the thickness. There are several formulas to then calculate how many degrees per hour the machine will warm up. The calculation also takes the differential in temperature between the machine and the air. Just remember that WD-40 is excellent in removing water from surfaces and preventing it from coming back for a short while. I find that unless that’s done before applying any preventative, the water will actually mix with it and you’ll still get rusting. Ah, after I wrote this is see you’ve done some of the calculations.

great video and I'm going to try and spray lacquer with 2 pac any bright surfaces that go rusty and in my small machine shop I have a Chinese diesel heater which is very cheap and effective .

I generally don’t have the issue, because my workshop is well insulated, and the heat only creeps up slowly, but in the past, I have mixed white spirit with grease, to the consistency of paint, and this worked quite well

Hi , I have an identical set up to you. The problem is as follows 1/ very cold days , machinery steel gets very cold. 2/ warmer (more humid days follow) moisture in the warm air code sea on the cold steel which has not yet warmed up due by its thermal mass. 3/ flash rusting occurs. I address the problem as follows : 1 / I keep oil bare steel oiled or at least a coating of wd40. 2/ I cover my machines with packing (removal company ) blankets which stop the condensate from settling on th steel . I find this very successful and don’t have any problems with glass rusting. Obviously remove the blankets when using the machines but replace 😅once I am finished for the day. I also have a metal cabinet for some ‘bare’ tools within which I have a greenhouse electrical tubular heater (60w) connected to a thermostat set to about 2 degrees and this stops them getting cool enough to allow condensation to drop

Keeping humid air out ? The answer is right in front of you @ 10:45, no more steaming hot cuppa's, jeesh. 😂

ooh looking forward to that video in comparin rust inhibitors. was going to just buy some acf-50 and see how it was but i'll wait now. Don't forget the walls, floor etc in your hours or heater runtime calculation... though you don't actualy need to raise the remperature 8 degrees, you just need it above ambient, maybe by a couple of degrees to account for cold spots

AERO 360 DEHUMIDIFIERS WORK 24/7 WHILE YOUR NOT IN THERE. AT LEAST, BUY ONE AND AFTER ONE DAY YOU WILL BE SURPRISED AT HOW MUCH WATER IT HAS GATHERED.

Excellent subject and excellent method of using data. Graphs will tell it all. I used graphs to manage my business and they tell the facts. Graphs will tell if you are doing the right thing or the wrong thing or if you are doing nothing. Thanks for bringing us along.

Looks like you are heading in the right direction. 👍

Excellent video as always, thank you!

Really enjoyed these two videos, I have an insulated shed for my workshop and a thermostat controlled oil filled radiator set at 10°c, 9 years in and I have kept moisture and rust at bay. Based in North West England. Look forward to any further updates.

Stopping the machines from getting cold is your main obstacle. Once they get below freezing and become "cold soaked", once the temperature rises they will start to sweat, as you've seen. Insulation will help reduce the amount of energy needed to keep the shop warm, but the main goal is to keep the machines from reaching the freezing threshold in the first place. I installed a mini split heat pump in my shop and it has an "away" setting that I use when I'm not in the shop. It uses minimal energy to keep the room at a constant 46 degrees F. This allows me to turn the heat up to the mid 60s when I'm working in it but because the machines haven't been below freezing temp, they are able to warm up without building condensation.