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What a cool vehicle! It's a shame they dropped the R class. Glad we could help keep it on the road!

Sorry to hear that, this may help: www.hackerspace-bamberg.de/HPCLJCP1510Repair No guarantees and no affiliation. Of course, cleaning the mirrors may be worth a shot to. Hope this helps, let us know if adjusting the trim or cleaning the mirrors fixes your issues!

The steps are very similar. On the M272 and M273 you have an Oetiker clamp that you will need to replace as part of the process.

Sorry to hear that! If PB Blaster isn't doing it, you could try ATF + Acetone. That's mostly for corroded bolts though, this is plastic / metal. Really it's a heat cycle issue with the plastic and metal heating and cooling at different rates over time. Tough to get any heat back in that area safely. If the engine is starting intermittently, you could get it running wait for it to warm up, then using some heat protected gloves carefully try loosening then. Hope this helps and they can be stubborn some times!

It's a tough one on your vehicle, really tight back there, but it's doable. The sensor is at about 10-11 o'clock on the back of the engine. You'll need a mirror or camera, plus flex and straight extension to reach the bolt. Should be e8, but may also be torx as others have reported in some instances.

we hear you brother! it was such a pain until we realized what that little piece was for. glad you made it home safely and it will be much easier in the future, fingers crossed no more blow outs.

The auxiliary battery is a backup for the SBC system on these E-class models, and also helps balance against all the consumer electronics - seat heaters, sound amplifier, etc.

Sorry for the delay in reply! Check out our follow-up video: ruclips.net/video/-eLZ-H5ESfg/видео.html This should give you more info. The internal CAN B is 83.3 kbs which is different than almost every other vehicle, that might be where you are running into issues. Not sure if CAN B will be at the OBD, it could be. CAN C is definitely there, that is for the engine and is 500 kbs. Follow-up and let us know how it goes, as we have always wondered about the CAN B from other DaimlerChrysler vehicles from the same era.

Hi, thanks for checking out our channel. Some later W211's did not have aux batteries. It may be the main battery or battery control module that needs to be replaced.

I understand, there’s no battery control module next to the main battery in the trunk, but I did see a video earlier where it’s located under the plastic cover at the bottom of the windshield, near the front wiper mechanism. I’ll check it today, thank you for the quick response. I wish you all the best!

For leather, you will want to be sure the staples are the correct type. Check also if you have hog rings instead of staples.

Thank you, we appreciate your kind words!

That's a great safety tip, thank you! We're pinning this comment.

Thank you, that's a great idea, we're pinning this comment!

For your engine, Mercedes specifies holding the flywheel and two 90 degree tightening steps. We recommend double-checking to confirm for your model and also confirming the part number before ordering as there are a few out there for the diesel.

If your rubber boot is still intact, see if you can gain access at the top where the seal connects. It may also be where the seal meets that is causing the sound. While we don't recommend it, you could slice a tiny hole to fit the nozzle in the boot. We would only do this on a rubber boot on the interior as a last resort. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Is it cold where you are now? It was always more pronounced in cold weather for us.

@fatherandsonfix yeah its currently 1 Celsius. Its been very cold here lately. Well cold for the UK. The squeek literally happened like an hour ago. Parked up, no squeek. Drove off and it started straight away.

@@rumelahmed4539 Yup the colder it gets, the squeakier it gets :) We're about -5c or 23f here in the states right now and the squeak has not returned since we filmed this. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

@@fatherandsonfix worked a treat. Thanks for the help. Youre a star.

@@rumelahmed4539 awesome! You're most welcome, stay warm :)

Guilty as charged! We actually had to return the first one because the folding mechanism was broken. Hindsight being 20/20 we probably should have invested a little more for an IKEA or a slightly better model. Ah well, that's the budget we had at the time!

yes, that model is a particular squeeze for the cps, you can try this: www.benzworld.org/threads/cps-replacement-on-2005-clk500-m113-w209-crankshaft-position-sensor.2838281/ no guarantees, and no affiliation, best of luck, reply to let others know if it helped.

you should find it in the same location as shown in the video.

You could use cotton or wool batting, but it may not have the same level of support. Fwiw, we've reused scrap cotton for padding in other projects and it's ok, but not quite the same cushiony feel. Horse hair was another material used traditionally for padding in upholstery.

Thank you...typically OBD gives access to CAN-C, we wanted to access the CAN-B network. As we were experimenting for the first time, we didn't want to send any signals that would disrupt the CAN-C engine network.

When it goes, it's typically intermittent. The brake lights can be a false positive - ie even if they light up, the switch could be bad. We recommend replacing the part when troubleshooting due to the inexpensive cost.

Si cuando das el contacto con el freno pisado las luces del tablero ABS y rueda frenada no se encienden, 99% tu problema es el interruptor del pedal.

CDI should use the same reservoir with built-in filter, double-check part numbers to confirm.

should be etorx, but check with a camera or light in case a previous owner changed the bolt

My 272 3.5lv6 version is a t30 or maybe a t35 but it definitely was not a e-torx like most of the MB community shows which made me wonder if someone lost the bolt at one time and just replaced it with a similar thread bolt that used a different head...your the first person I've seen state they had a torx instead of a e-torx

online retailers or a local upholstery shop

@fatherandsonfix I live in Germany Sir, so I think I will try to tighten the springs first 😁😁😁

@@stephenashley8431 yes, go for it!

That's awesome! And all nice and tight for the winter. Nice work!

Yes indeed!

The boot is a round rubber covering that goes around the steering shaft. You should see it near the pedals where the steering shaft goes into the firewall (the metal between the pedals and the engine.) hope this helps!

Lamento escuchar eso! si todavía hay fugas en el reten principal delantero, recomendamos reemplazarlo con OEM. El reten puede dañarse levemente y tener fugas. Tenga cuidado al colocarlo en su lugar.

heheh, yeah, it was fun waking up to the water the morning the leak happened.

You're welcome and sorry to hear that about your Highlander. That quote is outrageous! Try this first and if it doesn't work, keep researching or find a local independent shop. They only made themselves look silly :) You can do it!

It took us a moment to identify the source of the sound, it was only when we got our head down by the steering wheel that we could hear it was coming from the column near the floor. If it's coming from the top of your steering wheel, it could be the material on the back of the steering wheel rubbing against the column. You can try the same approach BUT use very little silicone spray. Instead of spraying into the wheel / column, spray on a rag and wipe any of the edges that may contact each other. There are more electronics in this area of the wheel and you don't want to damage them. Silicone spray is totally safe for electronics, but it's better to be on the extra safe side and use only a little bit on a rag instead of spraying into the wheel. One more note, be careful not to get any on the part where you hold the steering wheel.