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@@aleksandarangelevski9599 I used a 12v led driver power supply and put a bunch of power plugs tied into a terminal block… as I recall. The led driver is supposed adjust to maintain the voltage as forward power draw changes… again as I recall from previous reading.

@@jatinkumardesai583 the switch could be bad or you are restricting the airflow out of the vents in the back (too close to a wall or in a confined space) or the switch is doing its job and protecting your unit from overheating because some other component is not working properly. The switch plays an important role in preventing an overheating situation.

@@alwaystinkering6972 thank you so much, gentle man.

Verifique se o positivo e o negativo estão corretos no detector de movimento. Alguns acenderão as luzes se forem conectados ao contrário, mas não desligarão.

Obrigado

Lets assume the same power supply. The switches are click on and off, not dim or electronic. Probably. Is it the best solution? It has problems like one switch on leaves it on. Electric will follow the path of least resistance. So it will decide which way it goes. I would NOT recommend two different power supplies, one on each end. If you had that run two strips next to each other, one switch does one string, the other switch and power does the other string. Nothing electronic controls, two switches will send power to the side of the connections not designed for that (outcome of that will vary based on device). It would require some extra wire, you could use a relay. Power to each switch back to trigger the relay. On the load side of the relay... run power to that and that hot let to your lights (ether end). Then ground LED to ground, ground to the trigger side of the relay. While not rated for in-home use, I have used car relays for such items.... oh in this model you could use three way switching, but again extra wires... but it would give you on/off regardless of side.

​@@alwaystinkering6972 Yes, the power supply is same at both the ends. The switch is same as shown in your video i.e., SPDT. The setup is for the kitchen overhead cabinets with two doors, where the switches are placed near the hinges of both the doors so that the light turns on when either of the door or both the doors are open (similar to a 2 way switch connection). There are 6 cabinets which will be connected to same power supply by running + and - lines through each cabinet connected via 3 channel connector. The strip light will be connected to the switches and the connector as shown in your video.

@@ersomesher Oh... run the power to the first switch... from that same leg of the switch run the power to the second switch using two strands... from both switches run the other leg to the light connection near the first switch. Bundle the power and power ground at the first switch. You can use the wire in wire management in plane site, or hidden above or behind depending on cabinet design. This shows some double doors done that way. ruclips.net/video/b2UO2bX0khU/видео.html and wire management is here ruclips.net/video/ZE-p_CReXgw/видео.html In this design both switches have power, but ether and both can trigger the light. Last one closed turns it off.

​@@alwaystinkering6972 I have used three point connector at both the ends of the LED light. Ran -ve line through the LED light and connected to one of the three points. Rest two points of the 3point connector, I connected the incoming +ve line and the return +ve line. Switch is connected this +ve line at both the ends. I also connected the +ve terminal of the LED light to the return +ve point of the connector. Now when either of the switch or both the switch is connected, the light glows. No short ckt.

The timer is likely on the logic board behind the touchpad and that has nothing you can service. Maybe there is a stuck button or loose wire causing a voltage shortage. I would say not likely. Now I can’t see what it is doing, but if you had a bad door switch, if it breaks contact it would reset the panel… since we know that when you open the door the panel goes dark. You would see the entire panel flash resetting the time… I would think to be the symptom.

The switch could be protecting you from a fault or it could be bad. Others have stated they replaced theirs to find out. I have some notes in the comments regarding another video with the part information.

I would assume they are not all identical monitors with the mount holes in the same spot on each monitor. The center monitor has the largest adjustment range of the three. If you cannot get them to your liking then some type of plate on the side monitors or the center monitor to increase the offset would likely be the option available.

@@alwaystinkering6972 can I send you a photo ?

@alwaystinkering6972 yeah can I send you a photo because I feel like I wasted my money with this quad monitor arm

If it is not this particular model then I am not familiar with it. You are looking for the door switch. It may be visible or it may not. At some point in the door closure it is expected to make contact with some part of the moving door and trigger the switch. You can inspect for the switch. You would be looking for a cut in the plastic around the door or a protruding piece of plastic. One side of that location would have movement. The switch could also be inside and be triggered by an interior motion. This model had a standard off the shelf limit switch which made it replaceable. Best of luck.

​@@alwaystinkering6972- THANK YOU. From over the pond. 🇬🇧😊

I have never tried it but being below the 12v lower rating it probably would not. If you look at usb led and dimmers those operate at 5v. So they may operate with 3 batteries for 4.5 volts. That would have to be tested. Maybe you can find some costume led’s that have a remote. Those are designed to work with batteries.

​@@alwaystinkering6972thank you very much! So I changed the operation of the LEDs to 3 AAA batteries (by connecting it to an old 3 AA battery holder I had) and the remote worked BUT it was not enough to entirely stop the current. My guess is that these LEDs don't have any resistors and will turn on with any small amount of current that passes. Since I had ordered two controllers, I placed them in series and managed to entirely turn off (and on) using the controller. Definitely not the most elegant solution, but at least I managed to do something with the parts I already had. Thanks again for your help!

No. These controllers make dirty power by creating the flashing to give the illusion of traditional dimming. You want a DC motor controller. I don't know if I have seen one with a remote, but they are likely out there. I have use such things on some printing projects.

You would have no power if it was the thermal switch. You would have the interior light and no keyboard if it was the door switch. You have some other problem. Unfortunately it could be one of a couple of things from relays, to control chips or the element. That would make it hard to diagnose and fix without the right test equipment, knowledge of the machine and parts. Best of luck.

Thank you for your information I truly appreciate it.

I use the brown above my kitchen cabinets... which are high. The sensor faces down into the room. There is a door opposite the sensor at about 3 meters. while not my desire... it will sometimes catch me at about 9 meters out through the door. I think you would be fine.

@@alwaystinkering6972 thanks About your time and about regard

That sounds like the door switch. I demonstrate that behavior in the middle of the video. The limit switch is of a common type. If you have a meter you can test its continuity.

Two choices... RGB as a single which requires 4 wires (a lot to manage). You could make it cleaner by buying pre-made Y connectors and such but the challenge will always be the qty of wire involved. Doing a couple of fixtures likely would not be bad. If you put a color controller (a compact in-line one), you could place one at each house. Keep in mind the color controllers would need full power as the input at each location... meaning no master dimmer on that power feed. You could do addressable LED's... that is 3 wire. You would still have to deal with connectors that might be harder to match. Unless you program a custom controller for addressable LED's you would not have the detail in color control. Personally... the individual color controller at each location would likely be the most manageable from a wiring standpoint, but a lot of on/off switches.

Some sample controllers... these are wifi controllers... so you would be able to group them together in a phone app... so they all turn on together, but you can control them together. www.amazon.com/dp/B073Y3WCKH The wifi controllers appear to be the same price as the RF controllers... so WIFI would do what you want. They would be an always on connection to the controllers. The controller would be near the fixture with the color light being attached directly. I have never tried these but they appear to do the same thing. No case they may get a little warmer to the touch. www.amazon.com/dp/B09B1WDM42 Keep in mind with color controllers you normally need the RGB connector at the controller side. You can ether solder them on www.amazon.com/dp/B01DH7VMP4 or do clip on ones... which may leave you wishing you soldered them... but should be easier to get started. Both would give you about a hand lengths of wire so you can put the controller farther from the fixture. www.amazon.com/dp/B07YFRT861

I looked back at my photos. The LCD appears to be solder on so it is not a pressure contact that needs cleaning. They keyboard is a ribbon cable so check that is seated... but since you have the two problems I would go back and closely inspect your solder joints. Make sure you do not have any solder that carried over to another contact... for instance when a capacitor trace is really close to the capacitor joint. Also visually recheck your capacitor polarity and that your connections look good. Without seeing it there obviously is difficulty. The LCD would be IC driven so ether a circuit is shorted / incomplete or there is a voltage variance would be my guess. And as always with such problems we hope that whatever caused it did not contribute to some damage. Good Luck with your task.

Thanks! I didn't touch the board yet so I doubt it's a cross trace etc. worth a shot to solder in the three capacitors you performed since I have nothing to lose. Appreciate the great video. I'll update you if it worked.

Darn it didnt work. Capacitors were replaced and the screen is still the same. Replacement board is the only option. Argh and none available on ebay etc. At least itll do straight stiches for now.

Door switch? As I recall the panel goes dead when the door is open but the light can stay on.

A search of ebay or amazon with the phrase "single color led rf controller" will display many suppliers.

Just realised ive messaged before, im only just getting round to doing it.

Are you thinking of putting the PIR sensor inside the compartment with the drawer? If you were doing that I would consider magnetic switches if you wanted to go touchless. Multiple PIR switches... lets say you had multiple PIR switches and one light... it would not matter which switch tripped, the same light would turn on . Sometimes PIR switches don't like back power... when power arrives on they expect to be the load side. If you were to use the PIR switch outside the compartment... the brand offers a lot of switches... but the PIR's were rated for 3.4 meters to trigger... that would mean anyplace close and the liights would turn on. What ever you are thinking, if you have a switch you should setup some type of test to make sure it will trigger the way you want. I think some of regular switch per drawer would be more affective... it is absolute, however without the timer attribute, it does add another way to leave the lights on in a room. Maybe there is a timer circuit that could go in before the light to limit the on-time.