Instant Vortex Plus No Power issue diagnostics or bulb replacement
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Instant Vortex Plus No Power issue diagnostics or bulb replacement
This Instant Vortex Plus Air Fryer Oven had no power when plugged in. It was used 2-3 times a day for over two years as a primary cooking device.
The video shows you how I accessed the
Bulb compartment screws to replace the bulb
And
Accessing and resetting the Thermal Switch / Thermal Fuse on an Instant Vortex Plus
Model: Vortex Plus 10
Volume: 10 Quarts
If you need to replace your thermostat please see
johntube2525's video • How I fixed an Instant... where he posts the thermostat part number he had at about 14 minutes and 10 seconds.
I site I found that talks about oven diagnostics… no association…
applianceassis...
Content:
00:16 Safety
00:30 Access Overview
00:48 Accessing the first Corner
01:12 Prying the lid off
01:44 Releasing the front
02:00 Cable Disconnect
02:45 Removing the top
02:57 Relay Board
03:16 Lightbulb Compartment
03:25 Door Switch
04:00 Thermal Switch
04:50 Head Damage
05:20 Possible Causes
06:00 Re-Assembly
06:45 Install Top-Panel
07:48 Plug-in final Test
08:00 Design Notes
08:40 Fan comments
09:10 Cooldown Example
09:40 Power Comments
You saved us $$$ just like everyone else! After 3 years it stopped working and then would intermittently work and not work. I think the thermal switch wire was just loose and then it actually triggered. I crimped one wire and pushed it down and it came right back to life. The bulb blew long ago but we don't miss that. Glad to hear that you see high quality design in this product because we love it.
You saved me about $150 to replace my Instant Vortex Plus! Thank you so much for sharing - every steps and what you shared helped. I have used my unit several times now with no issues. Thank you for sharing.
My fryer was inherited from a friend who said he had gotten it as a gift and it never worked. Upon investigation I found no signs of life when power was applied. Used your clear, close up; video I identified a wire disconnected from the thermal switch. I dug around in the wiring and found the wire that either had never been connected, or came undone. Reinstalled the wire and just like magic the fryer started to work and has continued to work flawlessly. Thanks for the clear concise video.
This video was spot on accurate. Don’t be super afraid you’re going to break the clips. If you pry them up with a flat head screwdriver at the exact locking point and push in towards the device flat under the lid, they pop off.
You are awesome! Fixed the air fryer with a simply reset of the little button! My pizza is now perfect!
Thank you very much for this video. I was able to fix my vortex thanks to you.
For anyone wondering. This is almost exactly the same air fryer as the Farberware digital XL air fryer oven. This video helped a ton. Had to replace the master door switch in mine.
This was super straight forward and easy to follow! I'm not handy by any means and was able to fix this within 30 mins tops! Thank you!! Saved us nearly $200.00 and we didn't have to throw out a perfectly fine air fryer!
You just saved our bacon! Literally lol My kid only has a few foods in his rotation and a lot of them rely on this air fryer. Thank you :) From the bottom of my heart.
Thank you! Mine went out today and I was able to fix it with this video by just resetting the thermo sensor. Thank you thank you thank you!
AWESOME It's 2023 and this still helped me trouble shoot my fryer, Working Good as New,Thanks.
Great video! Just what I needed. I have exactly the same model, we were in the middle of cooking dinner and it crapped out. I figured it had an internal fuse or something. I found this video and learned about the thermal switch location. I wasn't as thorough as you were, I just took it apart and un-tripped the thermal switch, threw it back together and got back to cooking. Down time was maybe 10 minutes! We had it too close to the wall this time while in use, causing it to get too hot. Lesson learned.
Thanks. Good point you make for others... good air flow in back, not too close to the wall.
@@alwaystinkering6972 Well an update, the thermal switch started tripping again. Last night it got to where it would trip about every 3 minutes, so I was just leaving to cover off and un-tripping it every time so we could finish dinner. Today I closely inspected everything throughout the air fryer and could not see anything wrong - everything clean, no obstructions in air flow, no burnt-looking wires or areas of the circuit boards. So I made the decision to just bypass the thermal switch, with the intention of closely monitoring the appliance and never leaving it unattended while in use. I just soldered the two female spade connectors together and shrink-tubed them. I ran those wires away from the hotter area of the machine where the thermal switch is. Hopefully it'll work this way. I know it's not ideal to omit the safety device that is the thermal switch, but I'll be keeping an eye on it.
@@oakenshielddufresne2494 Potentially not good. That is the don’t burn the house down protection. Do the screw holes next to the thermal sensor look empty? If you see metal then there may be a skirt holding it in from the other side... that would mean a lot of work. If they are empty does pushing on the sensor from inside the oven pop it out? If it does you can look to see if there is a like rated replacement.
@@alwaystinkering6972 look for this in ebay “4 Pieces N/C 220ºC 428ºF normally closed Thermal NC Thermostat switch KSD301 A21”
@@alexisechevarria8536 FF
Legit vid! I also had my thermal switch tripped, but in less than 5 minutes, I had it back up and running. We'll see if it was a one-time event....'
Thank you so much! I assumed mine was dead, but I just had to push that black button and it's up and running again.
This was very helpful. My air fryer stopped working on the middle of cooking something and I was just a month out of warranty. Your video helped me understand the issue and how to open the cover. I managed to reset the thermal fuse with a long stick and it started working again.
Cause of this video today I was my wife's hero 😂 I fixed the dang air fryer
Awesome, I'm thanking God for your selfless act of kindness to share your wisdom. This video was very helpful, I did it myself in about 20min. It was that thermal button thingy. God bless you, I was about to get discouraged. I've subscribed to your account for future reference.
Great clear and concise instructional video. I was able to fix my Vortex (tripped thermal switch). Thank you.
On mine the light would come on when the door was open, but the front panel LCD would not come one when closed. So I checked for continuity in the front switch above the door and there was none when closed.
So to verify the switch was bad I swapped the cables on the right so it would be on when open, and off when closed; and thats exactly what happened. So I had a bad switch, so I replaced that and my fryer is back in working condition.
Thanks again for the detailed video
Sounds like my issue exactly. How did you replace the bad switch above the door? Did you order a new part? Thanks!
Thank you for showing me how to fix this. Mine died mid roast. I was beside myself and my extended warranty was no help. THANK YOU!! Happy girl.
Fantastic video full of concise information and handy tips on how to open up the plastic mechanical latches. Very well done!!!!!
This was amazing! Got ours working again in 10 minutes (those clips are the only tricky thing).
Best video!! Perfectly described every step i needed to take to get my unit woring again. Exact issue I had. Thermal Switch popped right back on. Had some similar coupler melting/discoloring, but not as bad as seen in video. Everything went back together perfectly, and cooking some chicken breasts as I write this. HUGE THANKS for the assist!!
Thank you, this video was on point. I was able to fix my air fryer in 15 -20 minutes. You saved me money, I can return my second air fryer.! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Thank you i was able to fix mines, I didn't smell smoke like it was fried but, when plugged in it wouldn't come on, so I followed your video step by step, got it open found the little black button and pushed it, plugged the display back to the board, plugged it into the wall and bam it lit up and was back on, I appreciate the information and thank you.
Thanks for sharing, I fixed mine as soon as you explained how to open the top
Nice work
Great video, my switch was tripped, now working great no discoloring to any of my wiring Thank You,
thank you very much! i managed to fix mine thanks to this! my thermal switch looked exactly like that. i swapped the heat shrink and put it back in place before closing it up. pretty sure i know a potential cause. not allowing it to cycle the heat out of the chamber when you turn it off. all that hot air trapped inside would likely cause the heat shrink to harden and crack overtime causing a short during a surge which my place can be prone to. gonna watch it carefully but i have a feeling the heat shrink could be the culprit just by how well the rest of the components seemed. i admit to being one of those idiots who stalls the heat evacuation.... not doing that anymore.
Helping others to learn, how it should be, thankyou, regards from the UK. 😎
Brilliant video! Ours is not the "plus", but everything is exactly the same
Triggering event was trying to crisp cauliflower after roasting them in oven. I think the issue was humidity.
Great instructions!
Thermal switch was the issue! Getting the top off and on was more of a pain then the switch but glad it was an easy fix. In the past I would have just gotten a new one but this time I saved money!
Brilliant, thank you for uploading the video, very helpful.
Looks like screw heads mounted under inside top plate, more disassembly. Unit clean but possibly poor air circulation on my part couldn't damaged the thermal switch over time. Great video, thanks!
Thanks for the video. My problem was the door switch. I had another unit that had wonky problems with operational heat and some of the lights were out. Anyways, I took the switch off the wonky one and fixed the newer one. Works like new.
Great Video and clearly spoken! I, too, seemed to have the tripped thermal. This was the second time it occured and I went back to the video - I was even able to shorten it by merely popping off the top, using a flashlight to see the switch from above, and then using a long thin screwdriver to slightly push down on that switch
This was spot on. Ours is back working again. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video....just fixed my air fryer in less than 10 minutes
YAY! Thermal switch was popped up! Thanks for helping me fix it
Thanks so much for the video, great instruction and explanations. Very helpful and information about repair on these Vortex Plus air fryers is not easy to find. Again, excellent video and I appreciate the intel and education!
Very helpful and easy to follow along. Thank you!
Great video, easily diagnosed this thermal switch as the problem but can’t get it to reset. Gonna have to find replacement part (or two) and then figure out why it tripped in the first place.
Warranty did replace it but they told us just to throw this one away...literally never been used! Tripped the first time we tried to use it after first power cycle.
Instant fix. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video! My Vortex just died one day, no beeps, no lights, nothing. I watched your video, tore that sucker apart & reset the thermal switch. Tada! It works!
Great help
perfect , We had a brief power outage which apparently cut off the fan and left enough heat to trip the temperature switch . This fixed it .
Excellent video, very helpful!
However the problem continued until I decided to replace the thermo-sensor. Very cheap at ebay “4 Pieces N/C 220ºC 428ºF normally closed Thermal NC Thermostat switch KSD301 A21”.
Thanks. That will be very helpful to others that have repeat tripping problems. The one I reset had not tripped again so I never took the thermostat out. For others to reference did the thermostat just lift out or did you have to take anything else apart?
Thanks, mine keeps tripping, how do you replace it? I see this does not have a reset switch.
@@eugenepaden1001 I never removed it as it did not trip again. The screw holes on top were empty on mine. Look into the screw holes and make sure you don’t see the ends of screws. If you don’t see any I would try a light twist and pull. If you look at the pictures of a ksd301 a21 it looks like the bracket holds it down, not up. The question is can it come up through the hole or does it have to be removed from the front.
😒
❤ Thank you so much for this video! Ours is working now!
Thank you. Saved me like $150
Awesome video! Very clear and concise. Fixed my problem.
Got mine going, thanks so much!! Obviously a design flaw
I feel like freakin Wonder Woman for fixing my air fryer myself! Thanks for a great tutorial!!
Thank you thank you thank you! It ended up being the reset button.
That worked! Thanks!
Great video. It's 21st century, these product design should be designed for better access to fixing/cleaning after warranty.
Thanks I'll take mine apart tomorrow
Thanks had to figure out how to get in
Saved me $100
this is very easy to follow and helpful.
mind stop working in the middle of using it. checked everything that’s shown on the video. everything looks good wxcept the light is permanently on when plugged in but no display.
what else do ypu rhink is the issue?
That sounds like the door switch. I demonstrate that behavior in the middle of the video. The limit switch is of a common type. If you have a meter you can test its continuity.
Thank you video very helpful Thank you😊
A bit long for my tastes; 0:00 to 2:48 and done; thanks mate.
Great video, followed directions and had it running in less than 5 minutes, reset high Limit.
Thank you
Thank you! Just fixed mine!
USA bulb = G5.3, 120v x 20 watt. No one carries but Amazon.
(cotin iued) - the switch has very little feel such that unless you are very sublte you can't feel the press down with slight click - I did here that. I think the situation arose when the unit was again pushed to close to the wall and the vent in back may have resulted in a 'short', and /or the toaster was turned on at or about the same time. For your other viewers I was surprised that when I leaned the unit on its side, I noticed probably about 1-2 ounces of oil leak out on the table from the bottom of the unit. Why the manufactuer gives no instructions in this age of DIY does not make sense. The unit works very well, when its working -thanks again!!!
You are a cool dude. 😎
Thank you! Thank you!! 😊
Thanks for this. I found my door switch is not working. I now have to wedge a paper clip in door latch ever time i use it.
It is a common limit switch style. Go to eBay or Amazon and look through limit switches. Match the dimensions, plug design and rating.
In my case, the thermal breaker trips if I set the temperature to 400F, but it doesn't at 350F. So, it seems to be a bit out of calibration. I won't be able to use the device at the higher temperatures, unless I find the replacement thermal fuse/breaker. The control board, temperature sensor, and relay are functioning properly. It is also possible that my temperature sensor is inaccurate (reads low), but Resistance Temperature Detectors (RTD) are generally known for their reliability.
My istant vortex doesn't want to turn on. I tried to clean it inside and when I use it again it doesn't turn on. Can you tell me what the problem would be? I disassembled it completely and I don't see anything burned
For those of you that don't have the instant pot vortex plus and just have the instant pot vortex air fryer sometimes all you have to do is take the lid off and there's a black button behind the two blue wires on the right back hand side of the air fryer there's a black button sometimes all you have to do is reset that button this has happened to me twice now and both times I've hit that black button and it's worked good luck I saved myself a little bit more time but let me tell you this is going to continue to happen again but for now I'll fix it until I got another $250 to replace it
My door clicker where 3 wires connect under the 2 pieces he took off in this video was the problem for me i had to tighten the 2 crews a little
That thermal switch is tripping for me pretty often, more often when plugged into outlets with a built in breaker. Does it need to he replaced?
The switch could be protecting you from a fault or it could be bad. Others have stated they replaced theirs to find out. I have some notes in the comments regarding another video with the part information.
Great video can you tell me what is the resistance on the temperature probe I'm trying to get a replacement on mine I just don't know what it is
I have not seen that and I have not seen it posted anyplace else. Best of luck.
okay after reading through a BUNCH of these does anyone have the information on what switch to get to replace the thermal switch... mine has blown enough times that i think it is faulty and the reset isnt lasting very lo9ng anymore and i want to replace it but as mentioned in the video you didnt replace yours so you dont have part info... does anyone else have the part info?
I just added to my video comments a link to johntube2525's video where he displays the thermostat model he found just after the 14 minute mark. It may be getting harder to find the manual reset models but I still see pictures in google searches.
I have seen in other comments that some users have found the thermostat replacement fixed their issue.
Best of luck
THAAAAAAAAAAANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
Great video I have a problem with my airfyer , the light works on the front and in the inside too . But the heating element is no longer on no wonder I can’t seem to bake any more and the fries are just coming out very soggie , is it time for a new one or can I reset it , if you know anything for me to try please let me know thank you.
You would have no power if it was the thermal switch. You would have the interior light and no keyboard if it was the door switch. You have some other problem. Unfortunately it could be one of a couple of things from relays, to control chips or the element. That would make it hard to diagnose and fix without the right test equipment, knowledge of the machine and parts. Best of luck.
Thank you for your information I truly appreciate it.
I apologize if this was asked earlier. Does anyone have the size/type/link for the lightbulb?
I never removed the bulb to look at it. Do you have the bulb out and it is not marked? If you do remove it, kindly post what you figure out. Someone in the past has asked the same question but nobody ever posted what they found. Best of luck.
Hi
I have the same model with you.
My issue is when I turn it on the time will end right away. Non matters how many minutes I set, it turn on and end it time right away.
You know what happened to it? And how to fix it?
Thanks
The timer is likely on the logic board behind the touchpad and that has nothing you can service. Maybe there is a stuck button or loose wire causing a voltage shortage. I would say not likely. Now I can’t see what it is doing, but if you had a bad door switch, if it breaks contact it would reset the panel… since we know that when you open the door the panel goes dark. You would see the entire panel flash resetting the time… I would think to be the symptom.
Thanks for this video.
This looks similar to mine, same brand different casing.
Mine does heat up, but the fan doesn't come on. Any suggestions for things to look for?
Thanks again
The fan itself would be first to check. Look for a power rating. It is likely AC. Does it turn freely? Can you disconnect and test it? If it does not turn freely, it could have frozen and tripped a fuse or burned out. There looked to be a relay that turns the fan on. It could be bad or damaged if the fan froze. The last item would be what turns the fan on. I would think the thermostat but it could be electronic logic where a couple of conditions need to be met. And check none of the wires are damaged.
@@alwaystinkering6972 Well, Firstly thanks for your response.
I've been out and tried to carefully prise off the lid as you've shown. However mine has a slightly different design. The lid is a square plastic piece with clips similar to yours. However, the lid is recessed below the top edge of the outer casing on all 4 sides. Thus making it even more difficult to get anything under the edge. First corner resulted in a small crack in the lid, then the clip came free from the lid resulting in a small hole in the lid :(
Obviously designed to prevent access for repair, the clips need to be sprung towards the outside of the machine to unhook them, but anyway once I had that one off, the others were easier.
Next was the top frame. I removed the 4 screws, but it still felt very solidly attached to something. Maybe I was nervous after cracking the lid, but I didn't want to force it.
However, I did a visual inspection through the holes in the top frame (seemed to have a lot less access to below than yours)
I spotted a lead that had come off of its spade connector on the relay board. The wire was barely long enough to reach, and the connector was very loose. I crimped it with some pliers to close up the spade connector slightly and pushed it back on.
Plugged in, switched on and the fan fired up. - Success!!!
So now I have a working air fryer with a few battle scars.
It shouldn't be this difficult to get into it, obviously intentionally designed to make it disposable. but at least it has been saved from going in the bin for now.
Thanks again
Hey, is possible for me to DM you a picture of something and you could help me figure out the next best move?
Thank you for your help but I still can't find my source off a issue I opened the whole machine up reset it and everyt it's still just saying open even with the door being taken apart cleaned and all any ideas
I would test the door switch first. Do you have a meter? If it meters ok is it engaging when the door closes? The switch has a common and one or to connectors. Basically with the door closes the continuity should be from common to one connector. When open it should be from common to the other.
Are you familiar with this type of test? Continuity is a test done when power is disconnected.
If you don’t have a meter you can replace the door switch as a guess. Do make sure it is engaging when the door closes.
I don’t have the exact switch. It is a common ‘limit switch’ layout. You match the appearance format, dimensions and amperage when finding a new one. Take a picture before disconnecting and put the wires in the same place. Others have stated in previous conversations their door switches have failed and replacing it fixed the problem.
Hi. Great video! However, mine is powering on but not heating up properly. My guuess is it is only getting to around 275°, if that. Any, thoughts?
Thermal switch only if it was not clicking off but breaking contact. Thermostat not reading the correct temperature, failing burner, relay clicking off too early and last malfunctioning control board. Without spare parts most are hard to diagnose.
Any idea where I can find a replacement thermal switch? I tried to Google atleast 40 different terms it just keeps popping up with the door switch. Thanks
At the end of johntub2525’s video he post the model of the switch he found. As you search for a switch it is important you match the rating of the switch you have. His was a 200c temperature rated switch. The reset button is a hard cut feature. I would expect most without a button could auto reset. You should always try to match the features and rating used by the original designer.
That ksd series part number and rating he lists will improve your search. While word thermal is in most descriptions, the rest vary with words like cut-out, protection, limit. There are even some with mfg replacement part numbers for the fixtures they came out of. Here is that video. ruclips.net/video/2TDSjjb9ct8/видео.html
My issue was the door switch but even after replacing it keeps melting :(
Hi, looks like the circuit button is not the issue. I know electricity is connected bcs light is on, but display panel isn’t. I don’t see any problem with any circuit boards. What could the issue be?
Door switch? As I recall the panel goes dead when the door is open but the light can stay on.
My pinsoon air fryer is brand new and will not power on. Do you think this will fix it? Or can you recommend anything else to try? Please and thank you!!
I am not familiar with the brand. I always recommend pursuing warranty when available. The only other item would be the most basic of tests… make sure the outlet has power and the fryer plug appears to be engaging with that outlet properly. You might also be able to see that the door switch looks to be in place. I would think the panel would show power with the switch door engaged or not.
Hi, does anyone know which light bulb may be used to replace a faulty one on this unit? Thanks!
Sorry. I never opened the lightbulb compartment once I got to it. If you do please share the bulb model you find in there so others can benefit from the information. Best of luck.
Don’t forget it looked like there was a relay controlling that light and a circuit to activate it. Hopefully it is just the bulb that needs replacing and fixes it right away.
My unit says open but the door is definitely closed. Will not allow me to use at all. It was working fine. Was in middle of cooking and it was time to flip food. When I went to close door and did close it the open appears on front. Have had it for 7 months and contacted manufacturer. They wanted me to send avideo and my receipt which I did today. Hopefully I will get a new unit.
Others have posted that their door switches went bad. It is a common limit switch style and would be easy to procure and replace if needed. Of course it could be any item related to the switch and delivering that message. The switch, wire to the switch, relay, wire to logic board or the logic board. The switch is sways to test with a meter and easy to replace. Good luck. Always pursue warranty first when still under coverage.
@@alwaystinkering6972 warranty replacement was approved and being shipped. 😁 I don’t have to return mine so I will take it apart and see what I can do.
It was my Thermal Switch! Pushed it and instantly regained power! THANK YOU!!!! 💯🫡
It’s the switch for the door that malfunctioned, but when I opened the switch it fell apart and I don’t know how to reassemble it. There is a copper piece and two other pieces.
Limit switches are readily available and that one looked to be of a standard variety. This is a spdt variety 16amp. You want the switch style (the button) and the dimensions. Search spdt micro limit switches. Look for one of that body style and check the dimensions and voltage.
Would you know off the top of your head why 'CLOSE DOOR' error would be showing when the door is closed? Airfryer won't work because of this. It's a INSTANT VORTEXT SIDE CLOSING DOOR. Thanks.
If it is not this particular model then I am not familiar with it. You are looking for the door switch. It may be visible or it may not. At some point in the door closure it is expected to make contact with some part of the moving door and trigger the switch.
You can inspect for the switch. You would be looking for a cut in the plastic around the door or a protruding piece of plastic. One side of that location would have movement.
The switch could also be inside and be triggered by an interior motion. This model had a standard off the shelf limit switch which made it replaceable.
Best of luck.
@@alwaystinkering6972- THANK YOU. From over the pond. 🇬🇧😊
Hi, my light comes on but the display isn’t working. What could be the issue there? Thank you!
If the light goes on and off with the door opening and closing it is likely not the door switch. If it does NOT then it could be the door switch. The only other thing you could possibly do is just inspect all the wires are in place and that the thermal switch is not tripped. I don't recall verifying if the bulb worked with the switch tripped. Actual electrical component problems will be hard to evaluate if it is not ether of those. Best of luck.
So my dad took mine all apart checked it with the gadget, ticked it. Or so I thought was cooking opened it twice, and the third it stoped completely 😩 help.
If the thermal fuse keeps tripping it is an indicator you have a non transient problem. Keep in mind the thermal switch is to help protect you. The switch could be bad or you have some electrical problem causing the switch to trip. If you don't see any visual damage, then replacing the thermal switch would be a guess. If you do see physical damage in the unit, that would indicate a larger issue and for safety you may not want to try to replace anything. There is a link to a video in the comments where he references the switch model he found. Verifying what you have is usually a good idea to do first. Best of luck.
Could you possibly point out where the speaker in the unit is? I want to rip it out
Too funny. It could be the black cylinder labeled buz1 soldered onto the board. That is a speaker of sorts. They could have one hidden in the keypad. Since I did not remove the keypad from the frame I cannot confirm if that is the case.
@@alwaystinkering6972 ah so if it's soldered in I'm assuming I won't be able to remove it easily? Thanks so much for your quick reply!
@@madelinelewis813 it does have a hole in the center of it to allow sound out. You could put some hot glue over it. It will muffle it. I would not stick anything inside it since you don’t want to create a short. A dab of tape over the hole and hot glue which is non conductive.
@@alwaystinkering6972 awesome, I'll give that a try! Praying this works so the damn thing stops scaring my dog
Unfortunately no luck it sounds about the same. What's the risk on me cracking it with a hammer?
is it normal for the handle on this unit to get hot
For the two months I had it after I fixed it the longest cooking cycles I did were about 20 minutes. So for my experience no. Others that do longer cooking times may know better.
I would check that you are not blocking the back of the unit. If you look at the back you will see a fan vent. I could see where if that was blocked it might force the heat out the door.
kalorik 10 quart air fryer oven not working how to fix
Thank you so much for the video!! So I think my problem is the door switch, I googled the KW-16 16A 125/250VAC like the one that’s in the air fryer and nothing comes up.. should I just choose one that’s similar and just make sure it’s a 16A and same dimensions? The air fryer one doesn’t have that button switch at the bottom, ones online do.
It is called a “limit switch” and they come in many formats. This one is common. Match the dimensions, connectors and amperage. You can find them on Amazon, eBay and other sites.
Helpppppp mine goes to end of cycle right after pressing start, what could be the problem, not even able to cook one second
The program logic seamed to be built into the keypad which I did not remove from the face. I am not familiar with this problem.
Try pressing each key on the front to see if any of them sound stuck. The fact the keypad is responding suggests it is not any of the items I reference in the video.
There is likely very little that is serviceable on that keypad logic board. The only thing you could do is visually look for issues like an incomplete solder joint, grease/liquid damage, cracked board or wire issue. Good luck.
How to get the thermal switch out to replace?
When I posted the video I could not find any content. Around the same time someone else was doing the same thing.
Some months ago his video popped up in my feed. In his video he gives the thermostat model and talks about how he got it out. ruclips.net/video/2TDSjjb9ct8/видео.html