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I had been thinking about possibly building a carb, Holley style 4150 maybe a Dominator. And mill down leg annular booster nearly as large as the venturi with wire EDM to make the holes about .005"-.010" maybe . 015"-.020" after testing on multiple engines, some like more raw fuel into the cylinders I'm thinking make an attempt to get the fuel entering the cylinder in the form of a fog to basically gas like propane mixed with air. And having a idle circuit that uses a needle similar to a motorcycle carb allowing the position to change with a 1/16"-3/8",1/2" total travel with about 1/8" adjustment in that range without modification. Also having two screws, one changing the depth of the needle, the other changing the location of its position on the lever that opens/pulls it out and pushes it in. So the position is adjusted as well as the ratio of opening. I would like to build a 2bbl Dominator, around 600-650cfm, as well as a 550 and 700cfm. And a Holley inspired side draft carb. 4150 parts with the(basically )same bowl with the bowl either over or under the throttle valves the asymmetrical Holley bolt pattern to miss the fuel bowl.havent thought too much about that one. However the dominant 2bbl, Having a double pump two 30cc pumps with one squirting nozzle and one spray must nozzle. With the fully adjustable, to allow a little squirt 😂, then a mist, to a big squirt 😂😂and a bigger mist or a squirt and little mist or vise versa. *(Having a 4150 double pump with spray nozzle on the secondaries could be beneficial. Make the secondaries come in hard and clean on a street engine just pouring raw fuel into a engine, the fuel could just run into the nearest cylinder basic flooding it washing down the walls. I'm thinking have a CNC mill carve the parts from wax and high density foam and cast them in aluminum alloy. Although a titanium carburetor would be cool. But likely cost about $10k to build so bolts and air cleaner or velocity stack from titanium is all that is almost practical. And magnesium is a possibility, but if there is a fire there could be issues there! Having a fire you can't put our sux! But having a single barrel Holley looking side draft carb on a Harley with a 40-50, possibly 60mm. throttle valve with a single 30cc pump setup with a double nozzle , squirt in the center, spray from it's perimeter. With tiny screws allowing it to be adjusted. Restrict the squirt and allow the spray to take over. With the excess fuel being bypassed returning to the bowl. With the bowl being about 1.5"-1.75" x 2.5"-3.25" and 1"-1.75" deep. With the float and needle and seat inside , with a brass filter, and a 1/4" inlet, 1/4"-5/16" the bowl under the throttle bore. Using a fuel enrichment circuit instead of a choke. Allowing the idle circuit to supply about 20% more fuel and the booster getting about 20 jets additional fuel using a small electric solenoid and a small thermal switch. Requiring 12v 100 ma. (9-16v And about 2-4 watts of power, until it's warm The little actuator possibly supplying more fuel the colder it is, a long with a small passage supplying additional air. Basically like a tiny, 1mm carburator without a throttle it's either on or off! To have a fast idle on cold start up. With the down leg annular booster with ultra fine fuel delivery holes, possibly as small as .002" likely .005"-.010" and around 50-100 of them with the edge of the booster where the fuel and air leave at the edge. Have a rough surface, consisting of a 90°-120° cross hatch pattern about .005" Deep and about .0025" wide on a .005" center roughly . Making the edge surface similar to as having it wrapped with a ultra fine screen mesh. Like a window screen, allowing the air to mix with the fuel as it as the air flows across the cross gatch pattern Pulling the fuel from the small trenches. Creating a ultra fine mist similar to a stream of water hitting a window screen, or the water in a sink faucet going through the screen airaitor. The ultra fine hole pattern along with the Cross hatched edge should Have the fuel nearly vaporized as it leaves the carburetor. Maybe not the best for all our performance however tuned properly, it should perform well, and provide excellent fuel economy, and a E85-E100 carburator possibly having two boosters. A large thin booster and a small diameter thin booster being about 1/8" thick or possibly 1.5-2mm thick and 4-5mm tall. With the material being about .6-.8mm thick. With a 2.5-3mm tube feeding it fuel. The small one being 20 mm dia. bottom, and 23mm top the large booster 40mm and 38mm having a funnel slape and placed just above the venturi the bore beining large enough to compensate for their placement. A 65-70 mm upper most diameter, with a 45 mm venturi, having a 50 mm throttle valve. A booster being 3-5 mm thick it's not going to disrupt much flow. With all carbs having a similar dimensional ratio. A venturi being 5-6mm smaller than the throttle valves , and the velocity stack entrance being about 15mm larger at its largest point. I'm thinking having a long runner high ram intake , like a tunnel ram traditionally having 2x4 bbl carbs. A similar intake with the runners crossing sides entering a large wide plenum with 4 2bbl Dominator carbs to equal a pair of inline 4bbl carbs, with 2.125-2.275"throttle valves two 30 cc pumps each and capable of having 50 cc pumps with a spray or squirt nozzles and a bypass for excess fuel. A large diameter long intake runner from 2"x 2.5" at the head, to a square oval under the carburator with a 2.5"x3.125" with a long sweeping 12"-14" runner each 2bbl flowing about 570-625cfm with 2.125" throttle valves to the eliminator having a single valve, 2.5" x 5.375"-5.400" the 3/8"+ about .020"-.030" between the valves being removed. The flow being 700-730(+/-) a 500+ CID 8500 rpm engine probably will be required 2500 cfm is a lot for a naturally inspired engine. Or a large screw or roots blower pulling through them making 60psi on methanol and 20% spice! 🤏 just a wee bit! Taking about 300 hours to doing the boost maker the methanol playing intercooler! Enough rambling, it's basically just a dream. But dreams are free , (for now) I love Holley carburators, seems Holley is giving up on carbs, (everyone else is going Holley style, even edelbrock!!. It's a bit strange to me :•) Holley carbs are nearest to fuel injection the way I see it. Anyway love the videos , have an awesome day🎉‼️

5 year old video now, Beautiful Concept in booster design, but aerosol discharge when properly pre-emulsified to high efficiency... is Damn hard to put down from a performance view. C & S, Pro Systems & others have aerosol discharge products that will run N/A with anything on the market. The old down leg aerosol discharge is hard to beat when the fuel is pre-atomized to ideal droplet sizes for delivery. Your new found design might be 1% or 2% more efficient which is not enough to change the market, that's the problem.

8 year old video, Area = r² x pi You present a .046 main air bleed with 4 main well jets at .035 each... I believe that is a 9.27:1 differential in potential area from main air bleed jet to the 4 emulsion well jets. Sounds highly restrictive to the main well air delivery into the emulsion chamber. All about the droplet size & delivering ideal air fuel ratios.

Great booster , contact info on FB ?

It would be nice to see a video on emulsion mixing for boosted application.

Very good info from the past.

Which carb are we looking at?

i have a ford 331 with manual and quickfuel brawler 650 doublepumper my half throtlle curve is flaty but my full throtlle(seconfaties) fuel curve starts at 2000-2500rpm at 10 afr and goes from 3500rpm to 12.5-13 and stays here until 6000rpm can i lean out low rpm 2000-3500 with the upper emulsion jet to put a bigger one in?(or drilling because i cant change them) there are 3 hemulsion holes each side excluded anti syphon jet

Smoke another one.

Would like to have them booster on a vacuum secondary street carb

I have some questions about emulsion and Rochester 2 barrels I would be willing to pay for you time on the phone to answer them

👍👍👍

My track warrior 850- I just pulled the metering block and the second from the bottom- is not drilled thru. It is blinded! Is that common practice and for what? Or is this a flaw??

Do you modify Holley Dominators ?

Very good information easy to adjust. I take it the level should be the center of the sight glass

Where does your squirted shoot it.

What is the difference in using TALL emulsion tube holders? Any benefits?

@dambest1 Do you guys make/build any carbs that are optimal for street performance type application? More specifially a 408w with AFR heads, custom FTI Cam, 10.5:1 comp., etc that is in a Lifted 97 F350 4x4 truck that is used for performance street, offroad, Towing, etc. I know you guys pretty much do just race stuff, but im asking because i like your booster designs and would like a carb that is strong in all RPMs at different loads without wasting a ton of unburned fuel. I would prefer a carb with a choke and probably in the +/- 650-750cfm range, and prefer a well tuned vacuum secondaries but mech. Would be fine aswell. Sorry if this is an asinine question, i just like your technology and thought it'd be worth a try. Thanks. -Jeremiah Fiek Ps- the engine will be in the ~500hp & 600+ft/lbs and from ~1000-5800rpm. Low/mid rpm fuel atomization will be important in my case, which is why im asking you.

Be good if he could stop whining and "oh poor me" and actually provide some data

I... resemble that remark. So thanks for the lesson. As an enthusiast, I don't find a need for a third circuit - I just knew they existed. The how and why of it was not something I had to pursue before. Booster tech has come a long ways since I first tuned a carb. Anyway, there are those that have to see something visual to grasp a concept, and beyond that I find most people learn by doing. Not too many out there with hundreds of hours of wet flow testing under their belts.

You didn't tell us anything we didn't already know, what we wanted and expected was how these holes changed the curve you obviously didn't know.

Gaskets dying from overtorqueing... might be occasion for some schwag: Dambest logo inscribed in-lb [fixed setpoint] driver to include with carb or metering block/bowl combo for people that chowdered theirs somehow & need replacement? Personally, I keep a wera 7400 in the box for odd things that need to avoid a typical ratchet set - I do electrical work and breakers with metal screws in plastic parts do not forgive bad judgement. It also comes in handy working on my carb 😃

Awesome John

That 360 access is cool! I always wanted to try and get a Willys Superbowl (but in clear/see through) and test with it. Get it set up where the fuel dropped just enough for the emulsion stack to work but not so much it leans the inside bank in the turns (use a camera at the track). Guess it could not matter as much if you're using lambda w/ an idle air control valve and controlling a vacuum leak via pwm. But if rules don't allow... good volume/flow bowl and pressure adjustments. Like your videos, thanks for sharing

Nice details - I like not having to undo fuel fitting at the bowl. My old 3310 has just enough room to get bowl bolts out, but I am hardpiped, so fitting diameter is smaller than AN. To take just one bowl at a time, I cut rear feed tube in half and put a swagelok fitting tying the two tigether. Not exactly a racers option on account of weight, but handy for altitude changes.

Fantastic for boosted apps on the N&S design. 💪

Glad to see someone is still doing real 'engineering'..! Most carb's on the market still have the crappy straight or downleg booster, which as you say are garbage. People should really try an annular, there's a day/night difference in performance. The new Edelbrock 4150 is interesting, but I believe the metering blocks are just too complex for anyone to grasp and, fuel flow, who knows with how complex the blocks are...? I'd really like to try one of your smaller 4150's on a street driven hot rod, I don't mind paying for good engineering and quality parts. I'm thinking the 680 would suffice. Keep up the good work as there's still people who appreciate it.

If you had a video/dvd explaining this emulsion stuff ect...I would buy $$$$ it.

Oh SNAP! I think I am starting to get this emulsion stuff after all these years. I got just street stuff but I guess it still matters. There is a lot going on in there and after 100+ years of carburetors it;s still amazing. How do I get more of this emulsion 101 stuff?

I have a question about where the fuel level is in the emulsion channels from idle to full power. Does the level of fuel get pull UP the circuit when air flow increases, or does it get pulled down as air flow increases? Where is it at idle? Does the fuel level in the float bowl change the level in the emulsion circuit?

GREAT VIDEO, THAT BOOSTER IS A WORK OF ART, WHAT BOOSTER WOULD YOU RECOMEND FOR A SBC TUNNEL RAM STREET ENGINE WITH 2 600 HOLLEYS

Wow, a really great product! I just saw this and have a question for you. Can you make an annular booster for an Edelbrock 1406? I'm building a 355 SBC street engine but would like to infuse some modern technology without going fuel injection. Thanks!

#midweststreetcars

When I see someone tryna ram air thru a fuel make it happener... I ask myself. Are you bran new?

Is this a circle track asphalt carburetor?? Very smooth off the corner, and easy for the driver to feather it off the corner??

Does moving the boosters around make them better?

Excellent video. It'd be nice to find one that explains the Holley emulsion jet tuning in-depth, I can't find anything on the topic. It's be especially nice because a lot of the new Holley performance/race carbs are coming with the 5 hole blocks (Ultra XP, Track Warrior, etc.) but it seems that amount of tuning isn't really necessary for a street car and just causes issues. It's difficult to find advise on what to do, or how to modify/jet those blocks for a street car. I've scoured the internet to find recommendations and have actually spoken to Holley tech's about it, no one seems to have much advise. I spoke to Holley just the other day about it, the tech didn't know much, but I did get some spec's for the different carbs (750/850 Ultra XP, Track Warrior) which seem to use the same 5 hole blocks, Holley was able to let me know that they install the same bleed jet stack in all of them, which didn't surprise me... The stack from bottom to top is .029, blank, .029, .029, .029. I was told by a guy that knows Holley's pretty well to go with this stack for the street - blank, .029, blank, .029, blank, so basically a 2 hole system. It would be nice to find an explanation on what each hole location and size would affect the fuel curve.

Super nice atomization

Thanks for all your R&D all this years. Everything makes sens

How or does this change on draw through supercharger set up such as a set of 4150 on an 8-71

These are so different from the $79 Holley 780 cfm carbs I was raised on.

I've always had a great experience at PRI Indy. Good video.

Can you tune your fuel curve with the emulsion bleeds? So when you are doing your Dyno testing you can achieve a flat fuel curve. And what bleeds control what part of the fuel curve?

I heard pit talk about picking up 100hp thru your carb and spacer plates set up ?

Are they running your fuel delivery system?

People just don't understand carbs. It's a monkey see monkey do deal. I still have problems trying to explain to people there's no such thing as a bolt on carb off the shelf that works in every situation. They think they aught to just turn the idle screws and set the throttle opening and go. I HEAR YOU!

Every video is an education....Thanks!!

Looks great!

Like what you are doing! About time someone did this! Carbs dribble raw Fuel, im this gals hubby. I build hot rod engines have a live stand to run Them on, i have a curious mind an have wonderd how to make the fuel Atomize better ,great job,! Keep up the good work for guys like me!

Price is too high…far less expensive brands are winning races…