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It definately grows on you the more you look at it! haha

it was done using clip velocity by rasoolieditis in capcut

Thanks! intersting subject for sure. Never seen it before this one myself.

Tamiya has just reissued the Mugen version which is just about the same as the one with different wheels and exhaust. Should be easy to find now and should be about $30 I think.

Thanks very much.

Thanks for the kind words. Appreciated.

I believe the plates I have are actually 1/25 scale and the kit is 1/24 so you would be correct, the plates are a little small for the car. The kit does come with Euro plates but I tend to put CDN plates on all my builds. lol

Thanks! First saw the technique on the Scalemodeling Channel several years ago. Makes a very nice looking wood steering wheel.

Thanks for watching, it is appreciated

Thanks! It is an odd one for sure! Really enjoyed this build actually.

It has a lot of potential for some interesting thoughts for sure.

Thanks so much Shaun. Really appreciate you watching.

Thanks Karl, not the best cover up from looks good from across the room! haha.

Shifts forever!!! The movies are fun for sure but not quite realistic if you know anything about cars. Lots of eye candy. I mean the cars of course. haha. Thanks for watching mate.

The black was painted on the inside and the red on the outside over a primer as well. It did take some delicate masking to get it right but it can also be done with a brush if you have a steady hand. It was my most concerning part when building as well!

Thank you for watching!

Thanks mate. It was pretty disheartening when it happened for sure but I also think that I was only half invested in this one. It was clearly a snap kit at one time and just didn’t give me the right feels. Live and learn right? Haha.

Thanks! I probably should have cleared the new paint to really blend it into the decal but got lazy. haha.

it is true this kit is pretty far off from the movie car. Unsure of the whole histry of the kit but I believe the kit was in existance before the movie and it was modified slightly to fit the look of the movie. I believe it was also a snap kit originally and so that is why all the parts and glass have those huge pegs in them. It is not a bad kit by any means but not quite what I am used to when building Revell kits. It is pretty clear it was done just to capitalize on the popularity of the F&F brand more than anything. Still a pretty fun and quick build if you are doing it OOB as I did here. Unfortunately my extra phone stopped working and so I have not been able to live, along with me working double shifts lately, it is hard to time everything right. I want to get back to it eventually, just need to organize myself proper. Next year I will revisit it and hope to get back to a proper regular schedule. Thanks for your support and comments Brandon, It is really appreciated.

Yes, it is always risky trying to put tape over decals. Live and learn. haha

Thanks for your comment Wesley, it is appreciated.

Thanks for watching Shaun, I believe you have been watching since my beginning. Almost at build 100 for the channel now! It's been a while.

That was pretty heartbreaking watching it get all shot up. Just watched the movie again recent so it is still quite fresh!

Thanks so much! It is appreciated.

That’s a great deal!!!

@ScaleAutoGarage heck yeahhh

Sorry to hear you didn’t enjoy the build that much. As for fitment I didn’t find many issues myself other than the two lines from the radiator. I got them to work eventually but overall I am pretty impressed with the engineering of the chassis and how it fits into the body. I actually enjoyed this build a lot.

Thank you so much!

That is awesome! I am glad to bring some memories back for you.

I find that the Tamiya Fine primer usually does not need any sanding between coats, but this will always depend on conditons. If there is any dust or hair or something that happens in the paint, I will sand it down and maybe even recoat it. I do inspect between coats very carefully to make sure there is not foregin pieces in the paint. Also at times, I may re-scribe the panel lines after primer to ensure they are deep and prominant. I don't do that all the time and it can depend on the panel lines of the body. If you are using a rough primer, like the Mr. Surfacer 500 then I find it is best to give it a light sanding to smooth it out.

@@ScaleAutoGarage Got it. Thanks for the detail explanation..

Liberty Walk is a car customizer in Japan. This Aoshima kit is done straight from the box with no extra pieces.

I appreciate the comment. Unfortunately I am unsure of exactly its meaning! My appologies.

Thnaks man, I appreciate it!

Appreciated.

Thanks very much.

Appreciated. Even tho no one can even see it, it is nice to know it is there! haha.

Thank you!

Yeah, the R35 body is used in many of the Aoshima kits so kind of makes sense from a business perspective to just use a base and then allow the customer to modify as needed. It definately did need to be cut away for the front flares to even fit and then to get the wheels to tuck in there.

Nice! It is worth the build. The body on mine was a little warped but once the glass and chassis was glued into place it straightened out nicely.

Thank you very much!

My pleasure 😊

Hey Karl, thanks for watching! It is appreciated.

The tamiya cement comes with a small brush applicator in the bottle. Capillary action is used when the brush is full of glue and placed in a spot between to parts. The same idea can be done using the CA glue. Put the glue onto a piece of tape or in a bottle cap and use a toothpick or a pin. Dip the toothpick into the glue and then place it between two parts. This only works with the super thin super glue. For a Gel type you need to apply it to the area you want to stick to another part. Hope that helps.

Thank you for watching! It is appreciated.