Видео

Thanks big bro!

Yes, mine was very cheap thanks to our insurance companies being lazy! However prices here are a lot cheaper mostly thanks to people believing the stories about Maseratis being unreliable. It’s a bit like searching for a solution to a car problem on the internet, all you see is other people looking for similar solutions, so it feels like that type of car is really bad and unreliable. People in the UK can be a bit doom and gloom or look for reasons why they should not buy, so the stories of unreliability stick in their heads.

Yes, I suspect too that these controllers speed up gear change by making the ECU think the pedal is really being pushed down quick so it speeds up the reaction of the gearbox ECU… that may be wishful thinking on my part, but the car seems much easier to drive in manual now. Beforehand it had a lag in manual gear change that was hard to deal with.

Thanks very much. Yes for some people, paying large bills at a dealer is a way of showing status. Never had an Alfa, but always wanted one. Have a good Christmas!

Thanks very much!

Also I used the Skoda Superb part…£15!

@ I suspect they are better quality too!

Thanks very much!

Thanks very much! That’s really kind. I really appreciate that, I will take boy for coffee and cake.

Apologies for getting you stuck in! I think know what you mean. If you have removed the shock absorber bottom bolt, it should lift out. However there are two sleeves down there, one on each side that the bolt goes through and one of them is floating and can slide so that when the bolt is tight it pulls that tight against the bottom shock bush. Mine was seized, I think I showed this here: ruclips.net/video/VcBaYpIyn3w/видео.htmlsi=lQUPA8X57PM7oPvd It’s at 22:46. Now I removed it by cutting with hacksaw, but that won’t be possible if it is stopping the shock from lifting out. You might try a pry bar to pry the shock out, I think I had to do that to get mine out too. There is also the hole in the bottom control arm that you could push or tap up on the shock bottom through. That bottom fixing is just the bolt though and with bolt out, it is just a matter of prying it out. Once out, you may have to do what I did in the video and buy a new sleeve, but they are £8 or so. Hope that helps!

Just to add, unbolting the anti roll bar tie rod link lets the bottom control arm drop a couple of cm more and helps with space. The upper control arm bolts on mine came out easy, I have heard they can seize. Worst case is that you need to cut the bolt and then replace the bush on that side/bolt. Not fun but doable. I changed mine in this video: ruclips.net/video/_uvkCGRXJ9c/видео.htmlsi=3T71PizoznDQQT-k Bolt for top arms is cheap is hat £7 or so. Just use the rear cheaper bushes though as the front bushes are expensive and not very strong.

@@SailingSVPipedream Thank you so much for your prompt reply and sage advice. It's reassuring to know that there are no hidden bits or bobs that I am missing, and its just back to old fashioned grit and determination and plenty of WD40. I was afraid I was missing something, and couldn't fathom why the damn thing would not just pull up and out of its home. I don't want to risk breaking anything from brute force and ignorance and you're videos have given me the drive and inspiration to try repair the car and bring her back to her former glory. Although she is fighting me - and I am under no false illusion that it will ever be plain sailing. Rust, seized bolts and awkward tasks seem to be the order of the day! Thank you very much and keep up the videos... its a fantastic channel. My 9 year old son can't wait for me to get the car mobile again so he can travel to school in it 🙂 I'm working during the day and tackling this at night in the shed, so progress is slow but I am determined to get there... eventually!

@@SailingSVPipedream Thank you - I have unbolted that and have more room to move the whole assembly up and down. However I don't think I can remove the complete strut i.e coil spring and shock (pending I can get the bugger to release from the bushings) without first getting that top arm out. And the arm is still held in by the seized bolt which I think has welded itself with rust to the car. I think working on these is some form of S&M for mechanics!!!!! One last question - how did you realign the bushes in the lower shock mount - I cant even refit the shock now if I wanted to as the bolt does not go back in. I think the bushes you were mentioning popped out of alignment when I undid the bolt. But how will I get the bolt in after I refurb the shock arrgghhhh! More fun...

@ yes, the top arm needs to be unbolted from the subframe - but do not unbolt the ball joint end in the hub as that is fine. Then the top arm can swivel round as you lift the shock out. With that seized bolt. If it is the rear bolt, then the rear bush halves are solid and you can attempt to twist it out. The front bush is weird and shaped and could tear - if it does then replace it with the rear type of bush. The Quattroportes had the same solid bushes front and rear in the arm. I did the control arm bush video that show how I did mine: Save Money! - Changing Control Arm Bushes on my Maserati Granturismo 4.2 V8 Project car - Part 14 ruclips.net/video/_uvkCGRXJ9c/видео.html Hopefully the bolt will twist out, but if not it can be cut and then bushes replaced. Eurospares has the new bolts. Standard bushes can be obtained cheaper in individual format rather than the complete kit from Superformance. Toole Auto do a complete kit if polyflex bushes too which look good, but then you would need to do all the bushes which may not be an option or bearable now!

No, all the throttle pedal does is send a voltage to the ECU telling the ECU how far the throttle pedal has been pushed. Literally it just sends a voltage. This WindBooster just (depending on programme selected) increases or decreases that voltage to make the ECU think the pedal is pushed more (or in econ or valet or anti-slip setting, pushed less). In essence you can get the same result by putting your foot down more or less on the pedal. Now one could say well why not just do that then and don’t buy the booster, but as I said later in the video, a mushy pedal that requires lots of application and has a wide band or arc of change makes you feel like the car is unresponsive and I believe I am also right in saying that by speeding up rate of change of voltage in the signal from pedal to ECU, the ECU senses that and speeds up response and even the speed of gear changes. This is also the reason why if your gear changes seem slow, you can do the gearbox learning reset procedure to reset it back to base spec again and the gearbox feels significantly more responsive. Finally it is the ECU that decides air fuel mixture based on mass air flow entering the engine and checking the lambda sensors before and after the catalytic converters to make sure fuel is burnt and the cat is working.

@ Thank you. Awesome RUclips channel keep up the good work and the wonderful videos. I very much appreciate the information you share👍

@ thanks very much!

I’m wondering when you have time if you can make a video about the speed limiter how to program it how it works I think it would be interesting.

@ Do you mean the speed limiter cruise control fitted as OEM on the Maserati or on the WindBooster? I think the WindBooster just has valet settings to reduce amount of throttle available so someone can drive the car but not get more than for example 50% throttle. You can also lock out the throttle pedal with a pin so that no one can steal the car.

Yes, before I could not really use the flappy paddles as they were so slow to respond, now they are actually fun and I am sticking her in manual more. Only slight issue is that my mpg has gone down… However that is kind of a measure of fun, so more fun is worth it!

Yes, after messing with Race 9, my mpg dropped by about 4mpg on the computer down to 18 (UK gallons) and that was only after doing about 20 miles. Then I turned it back to normal and it felt so sluggish. I have noticed or at least feel that the gear changes are faster now too, I read somewhere that the quicker throttle input into the ECU then makes the ECU speed up the gearbox ECU. Not sure how true that is, but she feels more fun to drive in manual now, whereas before it was just too slow to respond to the paddles.

Merci beaucoup! Oui, C’est ca. Bon courage avec le vidange! j'ai oublié l'aimant donc je vais devoir le refaire… mais apres ca, l’huile est parfait…

Hi Barrett, will do. The standard pedal is so mushy and the main tune so wound back on these. There is a lot of tolerance there. I am using Race 5 which is where I think I will keep it, I have quite a soft foot with mechanical sympathy, so tend to be overly gentle. It is such a big difference. Still need to get tracking checked… maybe next week.

@@SailingSVPipedream Hi Bob im the same with a soft foot, These cars have engough power under a soft foot no need to hit the pedal hard. Im getting my cam variator job this week by a know garage in High Wycombe collection and delivery included in the price. He will replace both cam cogs and crank tensioner also all the seals and gaskets. My air pump developed a fault this weekend he will check that too. As for tracking i know which way the front and rear camber bolts should be facing i did it my self then got the toe done, its perfect now! Car is very nibble and hugs the corners at high speeds. I can tell you which way to face those camber bolts then all you need it front and rear toe set up, ive also got the angles for that. My car is lovely and tight now.All camber angles are equal ! Hope your new toy is going well, have you still got your cam rattle?

@ Hi Barrett, that was quick with variators! I will do mine next year, the oil accumulator is working well so I don’t really get rattle at all. I need to fit stainless flexible brake lines this week and adjust suspension up a bit, then will see how far out the camber is.

@@SailingSVPipedream Ill be happy to meet you just before xmas Bob and show you my set up on the camber, drive mine and see. I must say you are a full of magic Bob with your accumulator. I can do the cam job myself but dont have a warm garage to do it. Ive got a little rust on my front subframe which may need a piece of sheet metal welding its by the top wishbone arm. Cool pedal sets ive got the part number for it thanks to you! When i get my car back we must meet before xmas Bob. Love your self explained videos !!

@@SailingSVPipedream It didnt happen with my variators, i read this mans review and turns out to be a con man leaving customers car open and completely stripped for months! many have tried to take him to court, he now wants me to pay for the cam parts which i refused ! I told him to take a photo of the parts live photos he wont answer, shame really the website reviews were excellent for him. im a bit worried in a way because i gave my address to pick up my car last week. Ive cancelled the job with this man and now will take it to a proper special company. The oil is not getting through in time leaving the variator dry.

Thanks and good luck. It’s not a bad job to do, but if you can get access to a ramp that would make it much easier. Having said that, doing it on the drive like I did took longer but was more relaxed than having a set amount of time on a hired ramp.

Thanks very much. I am not sure if the FD links into gearbox ECU or not, if it did then it would possibly make a bigger difference, but at 5 times the price, it’s out of my price range really (or I would have other priorities that I would pick instead). I do suspect that the WindBooster speeds up gear changes too. That maybe because the increased throttle voltage output may contribute to the gearbox ECU thinking it is being driven much faster. It does feel much better using the manual paddles now, before there was a bit too much lag I feel - but that maybe just feeling rather than fact! Now FD do the upgraded ECU chip which is only a bit more money than DBW, but would make an actual torque/hp difference to the car. So if I had the money, I think I would go WindBooster to improve throttle response and FD ECU Chip to get another. 20-30hp and 12-32ft lb torque.

It’s a strange name for sure. I guess it was one of those cases of a Chinese person looking through a Chinese-English dictionary and just coming up with random things that might make sense in Chinese. Hope you are well?

@@SailingSVPipedream I'm clawing my way back... thanks for asking. Cheers

Yes, it just started doing it the last few weeks… I think some people have retrimmed in real leather. That might be my plan one day, perhaps a bit of beige, but retain the black seats, carpets and headlining.

@ I’d keep it black. That’s easy to restore or replace

Thanks very much, although sometimes -off camera- I swear and shake my fist at the sky and sound a bit like Tuco in the Good, the Bad and the Ugly… Neighbours then scurry past avoiding eye contact, shut doors and bolt windows. On the plus side, I don’t have those awkward conversations anymore about weather and such with the guy three doors down.

Thanks very much. I have not had any issues with the Skyhook. It might be that the wire has bad connections. It is in the boot under neath the carpet. Some people have had boot leaks that usually causes issues for the parking brake by filling up the battery Bay Area. Might be worth checking the skyhook connection on that right rear. You have to remove boot carpet, (I put a piece about it in the lowering springs video I think.)

Cool, it’s a relatively nice quickish job with a satisfying outcome!

Thanks very much!

Were there any other symptoms besides the check engine light? Also, love the content, keep it up!

@ thanks very much. At start she could be a bit lumpy, ultimately that side was not injecting any air into exhaust to speed up cat warm up time. I am not sure having it not working harms the cats, I think it is just for emissions.

Thanks very much. With the crash bar, well what you see in the video was all there was! I thought there was a separate bar, but nope, that’s all that was there. Take a look on here: www.eurospares.co.uk/Maserati/GranTurismo/GranTurismo_(2008)/PartDiagrams/09_05_1/REAR_STRUCTURAL_FRAMES_AND_SHEET_PANELS I think there should be a bar, but perhaps it is certain markets. mine had no marks or anything to suggest it was missing…

Just looked here on this forum and he had no bar either… no idea, but it does look some had them. www.sportsmaserati.com/index.php?threads/granturismo-rear-bumper-removal-guide.28163/

Yes, I have been looking at it and wondering if there is enough adjustment. In someways she looks a bit too low, so I may raise the adjustable spring seat heights another 5mm. That would mean I will have dropped the rear by 20mm and front by 5mm. Camber should be better then.

@ Let me know if that works! Almost regretting lowering it now.

@@TheFitCEO I reckon it will, it’s easy to adjust on the back, the problem is one of my front shocks has a jammed seat so I will have to take it off and hit with a mallet again to adjust it… I do like it lower, but not this low really, however the stiffer suspension is much better as she did have body roll round one particular roundabout I use every day.

@ Just taking exhausts off to modify them and noticed that all my rear camber bolts are already at max inward adjustment. I will go ask on forums as others must have had this issue. I think a cm up on the rear would make her look a bit better and get her back close in camber terms, so that is my back up plan. Otherwise I think some companies do camber adjustment bolts that could be used on the top arms - Volvo V50s have no camber adjustment, but had a lot of camber from factory and some people have bought these bolts to get them into spec.

@@SailingSVPipedreamYeah same issue as mine they are maxed and my camber won’t get any better than -3. Crazy there aren’t any camber kits available on the market. Let me know if you find a solution!

Hi, yes the cam caps can be removed without touching the timing chains or timing. I think the wisdom is that in a number of cases this helps. However if variators are worn (the variators have notches that were not hardened enough or poor design) then noise will still happen. Having said this, my accumulator has completely stopped the issue. So in reason this must be why doing check valves can fix the problem as well as if the variators get oil pressure at engine start, then they will not make the noise.

That’s a good point. In the end I got standard arms and they are comfortable. Now I am swapping out the handle bars for some drag bars.

You are probably right, I just have this fear sometimes of digging deeper! I just did my Volvo CV gaiters with out taking the driveshafts out. I dismantled the inner joint in place. Probably was also the harder route, but felt easier!

Thanks very much!

Yes, I looked too, but all too much money and maybe worn a bit too. EBay prices can get really silly at times.

That’s what he keeps saying too… fortunately insurance costs will delay any chance of handover till a point suitably far in the future!

Yes, I have tried to educate him on foot wear, but it had taken years just to get him to wear more than one sock…

@@SailingSVPipedream 😂

Yes even my Volvo has cool pedals. The problem is that once you notice them, they keep on catching your eye.

Thanks very much, good luck with the search. I think now is the time to buy as they do seem to be as cheap as they will likely get now.

Thanks for watching!

Yes my oil was bad, I am going to change it again in the next month or so. Nice thing about a GT with 45k is it’s not sat too much and you know they can easily make 180k and more without serious issues. Good luck!

Well I have to admit that I just tried to build quick and had limited money - I was 20 when I started her. If I were building now or if I ever get the time, I would introduce more ramp to the rear and some ramp to the front (not so much). I am actually about to head over and modify the bow a bit to introduce more V and although it will not change the base line, it will reduce a bit of buoyancy (30kg so not much). Basically the bow wave spreads out and interferes with the outrigger right at my cruising speed. I think (not an expert) that rocker is not so important in a multi hull. However suitable v at front and pressure recovery at stern is important (I would like to resolve this on mine). Having rounded sections near the bow on the outriggers gave me bad slamming in some conditions, I fixed that last year. It also contributed to bow drop at speed which messed up the trim.

@@SailingSVPipedream thanks for the reply I'm building a 20 metre long 12 metres wide trimaran using 200litre plastic barrels three high laying horizontal encapsulated in a 10mm mild steel rod space frame which is covered in ply sheets and csm plus polyester resin. I'll have about 2m of vee before the round on the bows of the main hull and the amas but wasn't sure about the Stern's

@@patrioticjaustralia4679 Goodluck, if I were doing stuff again, I would Aluminium or Stainless. Stainless steel is easy to weld MIG or TIG, but is expensive, but then so is paint and add in maintenance and in the long term carefully sourced stainless is cheaper overall than steel. Aluminium is easy to weld TIG and can be easier to maintain than steel. It’s not necessarily much lighter as you need more if it. Having said all this, next time I would just buy a boat needing a bit of work and save myself a ton of hassle. In aircraft circles people say if you want to fly, don’t build. Even an easy to build Vans RV will take 1600 hours. Should add my current V starts about 2.5m back and should have been 4m really, but my beam at WL is 1.6m which is just too higher bow entry angle.

@@SailingSVPipedream I hear you on the stainless Mine will be a pod trimaran so no access to the inside of the hull. Hull width is 580mm

@@patrioticjaustralia4679 That should be a good bow entry angle then. I really need to improve mine, but so many constraints…

Thanks for the advice. Yes, I was doing something similar this year with the gib and she was much better. I will try what you said with the boom. I think I only messed up one tack and that was during very light wind. Now all I need is more time to actually get out and play…

Thanks very much, 125,000 miles. Maserati originally said the gearbox is sealed for life. ZF who make the gearbox now say it should be 60,000 miles.

@@SailingSVPipedream thank you for the reply just to get your opinion I have 54,000 miles on my 2013 Sport and I can’t find anyone to do the service Per Maserati specifications just like you did in the video they all want to flush my transmission since you have 125,000 miles. Do you think I’m OK to just let it go.

@@dresslikethewineking I would say it should be done around 60,000 miles, that is what ZF says. It is not too difficult. If you are paying someone to do it, it should not be too expensive as the service kit is £200 from Autodoc (original ZF kit) and labour for just oil and filter change should not take more than 1-2 hours with a ramp.

@@SailingSVPipedream Thank you

@@SailingSVPipedream thank you very much for your help so I would like to do the transmission service myself of course I only want to change the transmission oil in this case. Would I need to change the filter? If not what would be the procedure to drain the oil and then what would I do? Go through the gear changes? Is it possible that you can share the information with me, by email or on this site, I appreciate it thank you

Thanks very much!

Thanks very much!

I'm super interested on making a furling mainsail. Looks like you may have done one as well? Would be great to see a video focused on your rigging setup and the nuts and bolts of it.

@@SAILBOATJACARANDA Yes, with mine it was easy as I just used a foresail furling system on the main. I use a continuous line Hood furling system. The sail is an old Maxi Roach sail with the roach cut off. That came off a boat with an in mast furling system. So the rig is quite straightforward, I keep all the stays just tight and not preloaded by much as it just does not need it.

Awesome. I'll be on your coattails. 🥳

Do you mean the metal panel work in the arch? Mine is all light grey from factory, lighter than the car colour, so I suspect they used some neutral primer. The same light grey is in the boot too. When I eventually do the sub frame it will be in black Jotun epoxy. They were black originally. I would probably just my wheel arch inners black too. The fabric wheel arch liners cover it all anyway.

@@SailingSVPipedream yes. mine is the same white as the car apart from the matt black chassis and the 3 black panels for the arch liners to attach to. I used Halfords stone chip black for those..an amazing match. I think i will keep the rest white. I have KW coilovers on mine and it kinda shows them up more on a white background as they are yellow and purple. My issue is I struggle taking things away from standard lol

@@ColinClarke-pb8ee I know what you mean, I like to keep it sort of standard. I would like side skirts, but think I will use the later 4.7 ones rather than add aftermarket.

@@SailingSVPipedream I have those on mine. I'm looking at a front splitter though. I have the carbon winglets at the moment. If I do anything it will be to match what has been done before on the GT3 since our shape is what it drives from. itching to get out there and finish one side but it's Peeing down..........

@@ColinClarke-pb8ee yes would like a splitter too. I am going to go to my regular speed bumps and check what the clearance is first. Am fed up with the rain!

Thanks very much. Yes, I reckon in the future, all those actors are really going to let themselves go. Would be nice to have a six pack, although I am growing accustomed to my 5 litre barrel, it gives me somewhere to perch the cup of tea when watching TV.

@@SailingSVPipedream who needs a six-pack when you have a keg? Much more utilitarian and children love it! It's like a built-in bouncy house.

@@MooMan1374 Funny you should say that, my boy has a fascination with my stomach, he just has to pat it all the time. I told him it’s a form of abuse, but that just makes him worse. I think it has become like an OCD, pat for luck type of thing.

@@SailingSVPipedream Oh no. Do you know what that means? Your going to have to grant wishes soon! This is such a slipery slope.

Thanks very much, I must admit that when I get into open water, I try not to think about seals, valves and things that could leak. I hate leaving her unattended as I get nervous of did I turn off the engine water inlet or did I secure the chain… I do seem to spend a lot of time worrying… At least a car can’t sink when you forget to shut the door.

Yes, I am fine looking down, but when I am up the mast and look up or straight out, that is when it hits. Of course all the work requires me to look up or at the same level. My fear does go after a few hours, but it comes racing back after a couple of days of not being at height. I get social anxiety too, don’t you love it when your mind conspires against you!