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@unclejohn5012 Yep all good, I'll get to doing more videos in the future. I like doing them, just doing other stuff at the moment. Thanks for asking.

Hope you come back mate. Loved your videos.

When my unit failed there was no boards available to purchase, so I had to resort to having a crack at the repair, which worked out. As far as I know the XLS range is still made under different revisions but mine was well out of warranty at the time. If you aren't handy with electronic repair, small third party repair shops should be able to handle it.

Thanks and i wish you and your famile a great weekend 😎💪👍

You too!

Thanks 💪👍👌

Well, I hope the world has moved on from the old K8200, I still use mine for certain things. I mainly use my X1C and Sovol now.

Visuals are gh5s, audio for the test via my samsung note 9.

Thanks! From memory yes some form of connector could be a variant of JST, but not hardwired. Cheers.

@@xyzconceptsYTthanks! I’m going to try adding a JST switch as I hate coming back to my speed editor after weeks of non use with a dead battery.

And its carbine pins so i cant drill in them

Not again. try this - discord.gg/8mCP95Ws - it's now on the About page. Thanks for the heads up.

Cheers! It became a side project so I could use up all my remaining 3mm (2.85mm) filament. I did upgrade my control board to the MKS Gen L (sourced from eBay), as the stock controller was only good for 15 volts and I wanted to shift to a 24v System. Works well. I will convert the really agricultural extruder and hot end to take 1.75mm filament once I have used up the 3mm stock. As for your questions, 1 - Z lead screw is 8 x 8mm pitch, 500mm long, 2 starts (2 separate thread paths) from eBay, changed the OG belts to GT2 (2mm pitch) with matching 16 tooth pulleys then a full re-calibration, so far so good. 2 - No, the OG board is only good for 15v, so the board upgrade is a must. Hope that helps 🙂

@@xyzconceptsYT - thanks heaps! I would have been very surprised if the stock board could take 24V, but at least I know from your adventures that the bed heater will. The servos have a higher current rating than the Ender "high torque" servos, so I think they should stand up to 24V. Will the standard hotend have any issues with 24V, or should I just bin that and get something modern when I do the board upgrade? I'm aiming to get the mechanicals on the K8200 sorted out and learn the principles of 3D printing as I wring as much performance out of the old girl as I can. I worked with industrial lasers and milling machines for twenty years in a former life, so now I'm having fun tinkering and melting plastic. I'm seriously considering jumping straight to a Voron build in coming months. Keep up the good work - I slung you a few bucks on Paypal by way of thanks.

No worries at all, your plan sounds solid. The hot end should be fine as it is under PWM control. It is pulsed with 24v so power gets averaged out once at temp but will heat up quicker, keep a spare 24v heater just in case and remember to re-tune PID for the hot end once you go to 24v. The Voron build will be fun and super rewarding. Super appreciative of the dollarydoos it helps a lot. Cheers, Adam. 😀

@@xyzconceptsYT - hehe. Maybe I should finish renovating my second hand K40 laser before I think about new projects. I will need to do a board upgrade on that to get PWM power control. It's not good to have too many projects on the go at any given time.

Inspired by the best. Hopefully you watched 55 mins of it. You can do it again if you like, that'll help me out. 🤣.

Yep, it was a salvaged cap that was also glued to the donor board, hence the torn sheath. However, the rubber gasket in the bottom of the cap protrudes about 0.5mm so shorting or contact with the PCB is highly unlikely. Still works fine to this day. 😊😊

Yep, it was a Hall effect sensor from memory. Definitely wasn't an optical or rotary switch-based solution.

Agreed, my full-size editor KB is also "ID". It makes some sense to diversify manufacturing if not more economically sustainable. l'd hazard a guess design teams are primarily based in AU and US.

@@xyzconceptsYT Blackmagic's first products were the "Decklink" cards for digital video I/O to computers. I bought one of these back on 2006 to use with Adobe Premiere on a PC workstation. Previously had used Decklink on the FCP 7 systems at Channel 7 Melbourne. When my Decklink fan carked it within warranty period, I phoned BMD directly to ask if they could replace it (instead of time consuming wait, via the local computer dealer). A bloke said I was welcome to drop by their modest little 2 storey office building in South Melbourne. While a techo replaced the fan, the bloke showed me the wave soldering setup which was used for the PCBs for the range of Decklink cards. Since the success of Decklink products BMD were able to buy the ATEM switcher brand and the DaVinci Telecine and more recently Fairlight and develop other products, eg the cameras. More recently I did see a PCB fabrication room at BMD's Port Melbourne "Campus" (it's huge), but have no idea what they make there. At a guess it's still the Decklink range. Grant Petty is the engineering guru and he's based in Melbourne AFAIK (he was a couple of years ago when a friend worked at BMD HQ). Blackmagic also has a post production facility in Singapore and I think a lot of ideas and development might come out of there too. The acquired companies like ATEM would have offices overseas I'd reckon. One thing, BMD's "critical" products, the high tech, high quality kit, like the I/O cards, Cameras, etc, appear to avoid China for manufacturing. Plus they seem to rely heavily on Field Programmable Gate Arrays. This means significant improvements in firmware can be supported, and a reverse engineered pirate copy of hardware (see "China") , is utterly useless if it doesn't have the fair dinkum firmware installed. Oh and my ATEM mini 4 input HDMI switcher is also SG manufactured.

Wow, you have some history with BMD! Great read, I don't know if I am more impressed with the engagement or your experience with BMD! Just awesome either way. I have become a bit of a BMD fan switching from Premiere Pro to DR is a no-brainer choice from my point of view. I think any of my future hardware will be BMD in some way too. I think the customer focus from BMD is something that should weigh heavily for anyone getting into this field, even if just a semi-serious dabble. The ecosystem is just the right fit and priced according to even the modest budgets for serious contenders. Agree with the FPGA point and the IP protection stance, but does increase cost overall, but happily pay the premium if the simple "core" or firmware update can potentially reinvent the product. (Within reason from a product roadmap consideration of course)

@@xyzconceptsYT I understand Grant Petty worked for "Bluefish 444" (or similar name) a company which made video I/O cards for early NLE systems. The prices for those I/O cards was utterly ridiculous, thousands upon thousands and they had special drivers and all sorts of issues interacting with different editing software, the OS and updates on the computers. He must have seen the light! DeckLink cards cut through a lot of that crap and, in my experience after switching from an expensive "Pinnacle" I/O system on HSV7's FCP systems, to Decklink, things worked a lot better as BMD were far more responsive to OS and Editing software updates. I had one bug fix done overnight, whereas you'd be waiting months for foreign companies to develop new drivers and updates.

Sure, though the controller seems robust enough in any case.

Hi, thanks for the congrats 😊. I don't recall seeing a backup battery, however, there may be a rather large capacity capacitor on the FM board reasonably close to an IC that may be responsible for maintaining memory for a period of time. Keep in mind though, as this is not a real-time clock there is no "real" standard on how long FM station memory needs to be kept. It may only need to be a few days at most (if you're lucky), some units don't hold memory at all.

@@xyzconceptsYT Hello and thanks for the reply. OK! I got it. It not only loses the stored fm stations but also the last input selected and output speaker i used. Many thanks greetings from Italy😊👍🏻

i used an alan key, it was a pain

Yeah, the long end of an allen key with a ball end. It's tricky but doable.

The material may be drifting up the rollers as it rotates causing the misalignment.

No, this should be separate from the primary earth.

@@xyzconceptsYT thanks. because the mini version , the gnd of the 24v pin is tied to metal casing, and on the gx12 connector, the gnd and pe(protective earth) is connected together

The Sculpfun S9 - from Banggood.

The specs only reference 8-ohm speakers, with no mention of a 4-ohm load not even for testing.

@@xyzconceptsYT back side of the amp it says 4ohms but it is not clear what is said there. It says A, B - 8 Ohms. A+B - 4 Ohms. Whats does that mean

@@gehandx I was going to ask the same!!! look: in the back it says 'A or B 8ohm min' and 'A+B 4ohm min' wtf??? is this right???

@@xyzconceptsYT I was going to ask the same!!! look: in the back it says 'A or B 8ohm min' and 'A+B 4ohm min' wtf??? is this right??? how a+b is 4 ohm??? it suposed to be 16ohm!!! unless A+B are in series?!?!?! makes no sense...

@@sergiobisonte exactly no sense at all

Yeah, it's not a bad amp sounds really nice, in my opinion. Plenty of power and great dynamic range with a warmer tone. The Pioneer speakers I have are the S-P760V.

Ah crispy is no good, must have been running it hard aye? Hope you can find replacements without too much hassle.

Check out my video #8, I do a review on it.😀

Did you confirm the brightness settings are ok?

@@xyzconceptsYT i think it's the lcd problem, not the setting. It was fine until one day when i power it up the display just black, no light whatsoever, everything is normal but the display.

Hi!

The soldering iron is only set to about 310C on purpose to help prevent overheating, dwell time is relatively short for the large tabs on this capacitor.

Do you know anyone local to you that is able to help?

@XYZ Concepts yea, I will give it to them , I saw some parts are removed and there is a poop stain in one place (not actual poop stain lol)

@@gtcreeper Let me know if you get this unit up and going again. 😀

Hey Ian, I don't have my instructions handy either and can't find anything online, but have you tried pressing and holding down the tactile button on the screen you wish to reset?

Yep, works on my RCD/GFCI @ 240ac, I believe it will work on 120ac no probs.

​@@xyzconceptsYT i did a case grounding mod exactly like yours and it works through mains differential protection device. so its ok, i guess

I prefer truffle. 🤣