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LOL. First time I tried suspenders my dad insisted I try the cheap ones first. $7 for a set that fell off at least 3 times a day. And I was just working at a tire store!

Thank you! That's great info! Based on it being used for that purpose, i imagine that is the purpose of the hole to begin with. I ended up moving about a month ago. I can't be sure as I haven't unpacked it, but I think the scope made it fine. I packed bubble wrap in very well, and made sure nothing could move around, and then packed more outside/around the case it too.

This is a comment...

Good idea! Yes, this is a 60s or 50s Craftsman and nothing about it is cheap except what I paid for it LOL

Well, then, the motor is dead. I tried spinning it woth the belt and blade, and with just the pulley as you see it. It did nothing either time. It would just go back to being stuck.

@@woodworkerroyer8497 Open it up and check the brushes and the brush springs, might have a stuck brush, broken spring, or completely worn brushes. While it's open, clean the commutator with some emery cloth and check the bearings/bushings for play. If you're fixing it as above, it wouldn't hurt to replace the capacitor too, they're pretty cheap. Hope this helps!

Single. I tried spinning it, but it did nothing but goa bit and then stop again. Is there any possibility that it I'd the capacitor, or is that conclusive evidence for a dead motor?

LOL. I tired that, nothing worked. Based on the other comments, the motor is dead. I've seen capacitors die, and this is more dead than that, so I'm not surprised by the comments about the motor. I may order a new capacitor too, but I'll be in the market for a new motor or a rebuild in the mean time

No such thing in an AC motor.

They sell it there and Lowes now. I'm not sure what I said about it specifically, but it was a Sears exclusive brand originally (though I think K-mart bought Sears and they sold it a while). Once Sears was REALLY on the decline (after Kmart was involved), they sold Craftsman off and basically signed away their existence. The brand was sold to Stanley, and it is now barely better than the new Porter-Cable (which used to be absolute top of the line, but is now literally the bottom of the line).

Oh, ok. Cool info! If you want the screw type ones, they're called Chicago screws.

You might try T-stak or the like. They're not nearly as expensive as packouts, and give you a lot of the same stuff. Bear I'm mind that waterproofing and aftermarket stuff will be lacking (you might be able to get aftermarket stuff, just depends. All the packiut type places would be where I'd check. Here are a couple to start. www.packibletool.com/ indyprecisionprinting.com/cart

Oh, forgot to add. My buddy has a t-stak kit that's lasted for almost a year in real construction. So they aren't AS durable as Packout, but they do work. Also, the handles on all the "packout" style boxes are wobbly. If you use them a lot, I'd consider bolting a new, fixed handle on, and maybe upgrading the tires to something better. Pneumatic tire with actual waterproof bearings, and a handle that doesn't wiggle constantly would be really nice. (You'd need a new axle, and you'd void whatever warranty you have, but if the box is $60, it's not the end of the world. My packout bottom box was $130 or so, so I'm less than thrilled about the handle and squeaky wheels, to say the least!) Another option (at least one I've thought about), is to build the roller part, and just add boxes on top. You pick the wheels and such, then build it up to the height you want your real boxes to start and add a connector plate. I'd probably go with a nice drawer system for mine, but starting with a 2-wheel dolly and just adding a connector plate to it somehow would be cheap and a great solution too.

Yeah, I think it's probably good. I have never bought one, though. If I'd have known what this would all cost, and what my end setup would be, I'd definitely have probably just got one of those.

LOL

Good to know!

I agree. CLC has great bags that has a lot of organization to them

Yeah, I ended up getting one. It doesn't work the same. Not nearly as well. Dewalt makes one that does work the same, and it's significantly thinner, almost no different from a normal bit holder.

No, you can wear a belt still. It can be a little more of a pain to put on a belt, but it just depends on where the belt loops are in relation to the buttons. They can be an issue if you were to lean against one, but that is actually not a big deal at all.

That's a good point. I'm in maintenance though, so it would be hard to do that at work. At home, though, it might be possible (but all my measuring tools are SAE, so replacing them would cost some money...

@@woodworkerroyer8497 In your situation you will have no choice but to use both. What I found when we first started making the change is just like you mentioned doing the converting in your head. The biggest obstacle to overcome is your frame of reference. I’d say tell you to grab me a piece 12” long in your mind you have an idea about how big 12” is. But if I tell you to grab me a price 305mm long you have no clue what that is without doing the 25=1/100=4 bit in your head. When I say think in metric all of that goes away. That is the only point I was making. When I receive measurements I convert to metric before I start building anything. If I do the measuring I do it all in metric. A mm is easily within tolerances for most trades and much easier to read on a tape measure than 1/32”.

The alarm is supposed to alert staff to major issues like attacks or AS scenarios. The bags are just what I had, and what fit what. But thus system evolved a lot, so now I just have a paclout wheelie box, with XL box, and half size tall organization boxes. Slight upgrades, LOL

"Flex under stress?" What do you mean; that it flexes when you push down too hard? I haven't seen any issues with mine. The only reason I got the Dewalt is on a whim, so I'd have a different platform to get different tools on LOL. It's definitely the best impact driver I've ever used, though, and definitely something I'd recommend. A 40v impact driver sounds pretty cool! I'll probably wait for them to come out with some new tools and to see whether they live up to the hype about power. Not to mention whether they last ok (new tools scare me. They seem to get cheaper and cheaper made, but cost more and more...)

@@woodworkerroyer8497 My bad, its the one with the chuck not the impact!. I have the set!

@hybridmusclegarage4590 oh, ok. Bit now I'm curious, does the drill flex too? I have two of their drills and haven't noticed anything.

@@woodworkerroyer8497 When im forcing a a screw with the drill or even with drill bits, you can feel the handle flex. You can also see it. My milwakee dont do that.

Thanks! I wish I could have filmed the actual fix. That spring was a bear to try to work with LOL.

It's not about relevance, it's about what we use. That WOULD make life easier, eventually, but imagine the hassle and cost associated with that move. You wouldn't be able to buy SAE tools from anyone but the biggest, most expensive specialty stores. It would mean everything we buy, with the exceptional of most household items from China and some car parts, would have to be switched over from SAE to metric. Everyone alive now would have to learn a whole new standard, and it would take a generation or two to finally get a handle on what was going on. And that's ignoring the HUGE hassle that swapping anything existing to metric would be. But in 3 or 4 generations, it would make it nice to fix things. 'Course, that's ignoring that the manufacturing community is moving more and more away from right to repair. So, chances are, we'll not even be able to touch anything by the time metric was 100% adopted LOL

@@woodworkerroyer8497 The UK changed to Metric in the early 70's So it can be done and we can still buy Imperial tools if needed.

@@woodworkerroyer8497 Plus it wouldnt be an instant change it happens over time as Imperial is gradually phased out. Like I said we did it in the early 70's. I was taught Metric at school, yet my parents and grandparents still used Imperial.

I know! Be careful, though. It's easy to spend a LOT LOL. Frankly, if it's getting wet, I'd think about upgrading the wheels and handle, or just building a box yourself. I've had 2 wheeled boxes start screeching in 6 months. They're good, but not great in that regard.

@@woodworkerroyer8497 - thanks for the advice.

I saw them, but never knew if they were that good. I use a packout cart now, so it's less of an issue now. I'll definitely look them up if I need a new pouch for a house project or something.

LOL. I have a penchant for finding design flaws. I always looks at things to see how they could be improved upon, but I think I've taken it to 11 and just decided everything is junk and needs fixing LOL

True. I don't really have a lot of time to do videos now, and when I do, I always do fully off the cuff. I think the only video I didn't do that with was one about air fittings, and then I just had a bunch of numbers and things I'd measured beforehand, no notes for what I was going to say. I like the look of a lot of videos that follow a script, but I just don't have the time to rehearse or script anything.

@@woodworkerroyer8497 Please understand we don't have a lot of time either . Your video felt needlessly drawn out just to fill time.

I actually added the Knipex Twins to mine. They're a little too aggressive for most jobs because they are specifically designed for screw extraction, but I think they are still a really good tool to have, especially if you aren't the one that built everything you touch (and maybe even if you ARE the one that built everything you touch!)

Man, if you enjoyed these antiques, you should see my brace collection!

Bucket, pvc pipe, and 2" thick foam. Least dense foam I could get.