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Oh bro I feel sorry for you. Thanks though

Your car must be a Japan built with an 8mm stud. The KYBs you got has 10mm studs for a USA built car.

Why can't you just put the precisely the amount of oil in that you drained?

You did it right and very good video, the only reason the D light wasn’t flashing then went solid is you have to do the shifting through the gears a little quicker and keep that quick pace for about 5 cycles of up and down the gears. Awesome job 👍

How do you clear the codes with the scan tool? I have a Nonda scan tool that connects to my phone. But I might have to get a real scan tool...

Thanks exact issue I had

Did it cause both signals to no work, even the rear?

Need to replace those sway bar links next. Looked like the boot was busted when you removed it?

Nice. I'm in the process of doing a 2grfe alt right now. This job is an absolute nightmare and my lower alternator bolt will not go in freely for some reason. I'm scared to snap it so I'm going to pull the alt and try to clean out that mount tomorrow. Nightmare

How many miles are on your crawler when you did this? I have a 2009 first year of this generation with almost 300,000 miles I don’t seem to have any extra problems rides great thank you

Do you have to get an alignment after?

The others guys use infrared thermometer and measure the temp of the pan. It should be - 104F - 113F and then drain.

Guys, I can't unscrew the lid, I already bought the key. The ribs break and the lid doesn't unscrew. Who had this and what did you do?

I had a strip bolt on my Toyota 06 Corolla . I used a strip sock set JTC brand I also used a breaker bar to help remove the bolt but it just started to spin . So I got some vice grips on the opposite end that the bolt treads into and used the wrench with the socket and a breaker bar and was able to release the bolt . Also some on blaster would help with a over night soak

Moteure vgt

You don't have to remove tha metal panel that's under the plastic cover under the wipers. Nor the wiper motor. Just remove the wipers, the plastic panel, and remove the 2 outermost 10mm bolts that holds the metal panel. The back nuts that holds the strut can be removed with a long-react ratcheting wrench.

You could heat things up with torch to loosen the bolt a bit.

How are the KYB's feeling so far? Did it keep the original ride height or does the front look higher than the back? Thanks

didn't find your links for how to rebuild it. My '08 Rioe is the same

Perfect explanation!

My toco is a 2018 same specs as yours. Is it there any different procedure as yours?

Thank you

I got P301 and found out it would trigger few months later to a P0335. Once I replaced car drove like new

Thanks for sharing I have the same car ! 189,000 and rolling great! Hopefully I get 500,000 out of it ☮️kyb are the best! Sweet

Worked well, thanks!

Great help for me! Thanks alot

FFS you're dragging it out mister

And if the code goes back off at p0301. Then what

This video was very helpful to me. Sorry to hear about the blown headgasket.

There's an aluminum upper hose, I bought mine at AutoZone it cost me $40.

Is that a 1.8 t-sport?

Doesn't the book say 9.2 to 10 quarts?

Every 20,000 on a CVT would be way more realistic.

Thanx. Coolant is a great lubricant too. Those plastic nipples snap easy after heat cold heat cold and your radiator nips on the filler neck.. best to change the radiator out after about 100-150k thx bud

Same issue on my rav4 with the 1zz engine, after removing the intake side I could access the altenator back bolt, got a nut splitter and that took care of the crap bolt.

I've got the same, but on a marinised engine, so I've got a cooling system behind where the nut sits (so no access), on the other side a firewall, and underneath the floor pan of the engine bay, so I am a country mile from getting a cutsall near! Don't understand how or why the alternator will rotate but not drift out. That's just plain bad manners people!)

Thanks a lot

Dorman makes a nice aluminum radiator hose pipe connection if you ever want to upgrade from the plastic one. Dorman 902-924HP

Gud job…thank u…for leaving all detailed…

Thanks for your video . Very helpful!

My first mistake was to use a 12 point socket to try to remove this 6 sided bolt. Use a very tight 6 sided socket to try to remove a very tight hex bolt not a 12 sided socket.

No I found a reverse socket that grips a rounded 6 sided bolt. I just pushed the reverse stripped rounded bolt socket onto the rounded head. Before I sprayed more frozen bolt chemicals on the threaded end to allow it to penetrate. I also used a huge slot screw driver that must be nearly 16" long. I placed the slot end onto the rounded bolt head in a way to loosen it digging into the metal. I hit the screw driver several times with a hammer in an attempt to shock the bolt loose. After several hits with the screw driver and hammer, I placed the reverse 6 sided backwards gripping socket onto the rounded bolt. It began to grip the bolt with a 1/4" ratchet drive with a tube extension. The extension may have been over 18" long. I pushed the long extension and the bolt moved a very little. I did not force it or hurry it. It moved slowly and gently I reset the ratchet getting maybe only 10 degrees with every reset. After a few minutes the bolt moved out more easily. I knew it was coming out. After under 5 minutes the bolt came completely out. I went to our local ACE hardware and found an exact matching metric bolt with the same fine threading. It cost under $4 when the Toyota dealer wanted nearly $8 for the same bolt. I had night mares thinking about towing my Matrix Corolla to the dealer or a mechanic to get that alternator removed and replaces and bills over $1,000.

Good tip about the duct tape.

Thanks for all the encouragement and advice.

I might consider taking apart the alternator before the saws all approach. There are 4 bolts holding the alternator together. All I have to do is get to the bolt below the alternator. I'm not afraid to take apart my car. That is what a digital camera is for, take pictures as it comes apart. It is easier to put back together.

Thanks for the help and advice. I have a 2007 Toyota Corolla Matrix. It is the same problem the bottom alternator bolt is stuck or frozen. I have used WD 40 on the back of the bolt. Luckly, I have not rounded the head of the bolt yet. I am thinking of removing the front right wheel and plastic to attempt a straight on impact hammer to turn out this bolt. Today will be more WD 40 then will try to turn the head of the bolt or round it. Where did you get the smaller saws all tool. My saws all is huge for much bigger jobs. Maybe Harbor Freight? Where did you get the replacement bolt for the lower alternator for a 2007 Toyota Corolla. Your 2005 Corolla looks identical to my 2007 Toyota 1.8 Liter Corolla Matrix.

Do the bad regulator give you miss fire

Great video bro. I have a 2013 2WD Tacoma 2.7L SR5 and the transmission is quite different than yours. To start, there’s no fill hole underneath (you fill it through the dipstick on top). I also got the same brand kit from RockAuto and I found it interesting that the gasket is not thick rubber like yours, instead mine is a thin cork layer. I guess it’s the different transmission pan style. Also, my transmission pan has the dipstick line attached to it so you have to be careful not to bend it when you remove the pan

Do you know what that yellow clip is called

Hi i have the same problem I have 2005 Scion xB the bottom bolt of my alternator will not move now it’s stripped fuck lol