Видео

In this case, where I listed all pros of odroid comparing to chinese cwwk, yes, I said that (:

Controller - standard 3mm Allen key Deck is Secure torx T20 (with pin/hole on the center)

@@HobbyWithAdam Thanks so much!

I haven't replaced CWWK yet (thinking about migration procedure) but I must say that until installing proxmox, playing with some benchmarks, BIOS settings etc it worked flawlessly.

@@HobbyWithAdam Can't wait for the follow-up video where you demonstrate the populated Proxmox server. Currently I'm debating with my self whether I run Proxmox or TrueNAS SCALE 24.10 on my two H4+.

@@69152h Proxmox gives you versatility, Here is video after 7 months of 24/7 usage cwwk n100, I'm showing there how i populated it ruclips.net/video/dnKJwBVLp30/видео.htmlsi=V7ZQJoLDWvCyCQ7E for another video where I show populated N305 we will have to wait, Unfortunately currently I'm focused on totally different topic which unexpected popped up (electric scooters...)

Zapraszam tutaj wszystko mówię/pokazuję/protipy daję ;) ruclips.net/video/dnKJwBVLp30/видео.htmlsi=NrmogzOkgNOy9eS2 proxmox, mini pc omowiony w filmie, za niedlugo przesiadam sie na odroid, dongle Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus - istnotnym jest żeby był w najnowszej wersji firmware bo bugi, wersje HA Z2M najnowsze i aktualizuje regularnie

Comparing to CWWK, price is similar for N305 but quality/support etc odroid has better. Regarding AMD 5825U, AMD would be no go when thinking about jellyfin hardware acceleration, and maybe some problems with opnsense, aand it's hard to find minipc with two intel 226 NICs which are essential for opnsense I have spend too much time for searching a decent replacement with better performance/power efficiency :)

@@HobbyWithAdam "Regarding AMD 5825U, AMD would be no go when thinking about jellyfin hardware acceleration" Wiki shows that the 5825U has a GCN 5th gen iGPU, so I am not sure what hardware accelerated decode/encode engines are available for that APU. "and maybe some problems with opnsense, aand it's hard to find minipc with two intel 226 NICs which are essential for opnsense" You USED to be able to get a Topton mini PC with 4x Intel 226 NICs and the 5825U for around $336 USD. It's more than the Odroid H4 Ultra, but it also comes with two more ports, a case, and power adapter (the latter two are things you'd have to pay extra for the Odroid H4 Ultra). So, it depends on how much traffic you are looking to put through the 2.5 GbE NICs. (I just googled it to try and find an AMD mini PC with Intel 226 NICs.) "I have spend too much time for searching a decent replacement with better performance/power efficiency :)" You can get better performance/power efficiency if you are willing to spend more. I'm always looking to try to get the lowest $/(performance/Watt) as I can. There are systems that are > $500 USD that are more performant, and therefore; have a lower $/(performance/Watt), but if I am trying to buy three of them to make a cluster, it ends up being quite expensive all said and done. Conversely, I can get three of the 5825U mini PCs, cluster them together, and depending on how much RAM and storage I put in to each node, the barebones themselves are only $191 USD each. I think that I calculated that you can outfit each node with 64 GB of RAM and a 1 TB NVMe 4.0 x4 SSD for around something like $330 USD all said. So it's about $100 USD more than the Odroid H4 Ultra, but it's got more RAM, more storage, and the CPU is more performant. (I've tried transcoding 2160p movie down to 1080p with Plex, and it doesn't do particularly well with the Intel N95 Processor, which I know, the UHD Graphics in that isn't as powerful as the UHD Graphics that's in N305.) So it depends on what it is that you're trying to do (and how).

I have one of these waiting for video, eaton 3s mini, well, you need to know that there are offline/line interactive/online UPS, I would say if you have use case for this little guy thats fine - for example you just have router and thats it, its offline type, so you should test if router remains stable when switching, when you need to power switch/AP/ONT or anything more at once, UPS is the only way to go I own two CyberPower UPS and I must say I love them, imagine power outage, darkness everywhere but my salon where lights are on, music plays lol

interesting, I haven't heard this Eaton UPS 3S Mini before, it looks a reliable brand. In a quick search I couldn't find any store selling it here in Brazil. The first I found is from an uknown chinese brand and powered by a Li Ion Battery. Then a couple others made here, national products, that uses Lead-Acid batteries. Are those available where you live too? Are they "oldschool"? Let me know if my thought is correct: even though these guys only output DC, there is a chance that when switching the power could go down for some seconds? Would you trust powering a mini pc with them? That's awesome lol, that's something I'm trying to achieve but these well known international brands are hard do find here. Nowadays, I think due to importation policies, we have lots of national brands, so it's harder to find reviews and recommendations for it. And I find somewhat a power waste to have two inversors at the same time to then convert AC back to DC in the end. What do you think about it?

I think switch refers to ASIC on the router boards which you don't have on mini pc if you are on mini pc I would suggest you proxmox with opnsense - way more powerful, unbound recursive dns server, adblocking (like openwrt) and much more ;) I have no idea how configuration in openwrt would look like in your case.

@@HobbyWithAdam i'm doing the opposite way hahah I was using pfsense and then switched to openwrt, indeed I'm struggling now because of it. I think the problem is Linux overall that changes it's moving parts faster FreeBSD causing stuff to break more often.

@@titocito I'm using opnsense since about 8 months 24/7 with PPPoE and its rock solid (on proxmox), I had few routers (some really powerfull with ipq806x, 512MB ram) with openwrt and they always had some random issues, it was just not stable to leave it 24/7 without attention

​@@HobbyWithAdami'v been using OpenWRT in LXC using Proxmox around 5 months now. It dials PPPoE too, it was a little bit complex to set it up but its boot time is lightning fast. But if you have a UPS there should be no worries with boot time 😅. No troubles with it so far but I haven't installed anything too complex in it yet so it's not a good benchmark.

I have ONT, authorization is made by ancient PPPoE protocool, sometimes you can ask ISP for ONT instead of crappy router. Opnsense acts as a firewall, recursive DNS server (unbound - cool thing), blocking ads based on DNS, DHCP server

Bo jedni mają zablokowany sterownik, a inni wyświetlacz :)

@@HobbyWithAdam wiesz jak to poznać ?

@@jasiegehe6149 BLE 1.5.5/1.5.7 = zablokowane, DRV nie pamiętam szczerze, zależy też od hulajki, kwestia wejść w scooterhacking i to powie czy jest zablokowane czy nie

​@@HobbyWithAdam Dzięki, takie jeszcze pytanie, wiesz czy można sobie potem wrócić do oryginalnego softu ? Bo mam gwarancję i nie chce jej stracić

@@jasiegehe6149 Gwarancja w przypadku hulajnóg elektrycznych jest generalnie taka jak z rowerami... często jej nie ma bo jak już coś się zepsuje to nie jest to obejmowane. Szczerze to nigdy nie wracałem to nie wiem :D no ale po wgrywaniu programatorem masz ślady lutowania więc trochę podejrzane...

If you have R02 in BIOS (9:40) you can put 7700t or standard 7700, both will work with same power (35w)

​@@HobbyWithAdam Thanks, dont know how i watched through most of the video and still missed that haha

looks very similar, It might work, I would give a try somewhere with free return option

@@HobbyWithAdam chat GPT told me they are compatible...exactly same size, only difference is capacity 🙂 Some sites also show that sbta90 fits jet 75...so it probably is true.

BLE 1.5.7 = restricted, bms is fine, drv I'm not sure, might be restricted too

Hej, Film o samym miniPC jest tutaj: ruclips.net/video/cLcHokYOXZc/видео.htmlsi=D4FjgE9iXoVwLFZN i kolejną część (omówienie, protipy, co i jak działa po pół roku) planuję wypuścić 7 września, Czy jest coś co chciałbyś abym omówił? Niestety konfiguracji opnsense/pfsense nie będę pokazywać gdyż jest mocno indywidualna i wszystko zależy w jakiej postaci masz internet (skąd), ja osobiście powinienem mieć liveboxa i konfig był na tyle zawiły, że go nie powtórzę :D na już co Ci mogę polecić to: tteck.github.io/Proxmox/ wrzucaj opnsense zamiast pfsense, różnica w funkcjonalności znikoma, ale to pfsense się sprzedało i zabrało darmowego plusa, a opnsense jest open source od początku

@@HobbyWithAdam Dzięki za odpowiedź i link do skryptów. Świetna sprawa, poczytam. Film o minipc już widziałem dlatego też napisałem. Jak będziesz omawiał to fajnie by było jak byś pokazał jak to wszystko podłączyłeś, jak skonfigurowałeś sieć z proxmoxem i opensense, tak by mieć dostep do miniPC po sieci, bo tam masz tylko dwa porty 2.5Gb przekazane opensense jako WAN i LAN. Pytań mam jeszcze sporo. Pewnie będe jeszcze pisał :D Pozdrawiam!

Hello, Very very strange, never experienced that behaviour, only 2 states: working OR burnt (not working) :D Issue is very complicated, first I would investigate firmware on controller, SHFW for example has option to simulate BMS so you could have totally different readings than original ones from real BMS. I would try to update firmwares what are possible without locking the speed/install SHFW etc. I would say issue might be software related because there is serial communication bus between dashboard/controller/battery, so if something is cut, nothing would show.

@@HobbyWithAdam Thank you for the quick answer! I will focus on the firmware then.

@@HobbyWithAdam You were right, I've updated the firmware and it fixed the issue. Thank you, Adam! I was about it buy another controller lol.

I Agree, I finally ended with roborock Qrevo Pro and its next level of vacuums

It might be same situation as I have spotted in jet bot battery, replaced all cells but somehow BMS was locked ;/ If yes, I was very lucky in this video...

@@HobbyWithAdam i think bms lock , i try to use on jet90 but they not work just have led blink 2 time , do u know how to unlock bms bro?

@@HobbyWithAdam There is another video on youtube where some chinese guy is changing elements in this battery, he has extra wires soldered to the battery so the board never loses electricity while removing elements. Seems he does it like that to prevent locking the battery. So basically the safest way to replace a cell would be soldering another cell and then remove and replace the bad cell. ruclips.net/video/7P16NXYoluw/видео.html

0:35 It is located on the top of the battery

I would bet it is controller fault, I had something similar with damaged ones.

It depends on router and its support

no idea, sorry.

He is telling you how to do and what to understand and make sure you don’t fuck up your escooter

He doesn't talk too much. He actually doesn't talk enough. For some odd reason speaks as if he's lagging. Half the video is ehhhhh, uhhhhhh, ummmnn, aaaaa, theeeeee, ughhh, it's like come on bro just say the thing that you're saying. I don't know why he doesn't just talk at a normal pace, he'll say half a sentence normally and then get hung up before spitting out the second half normally. There's some type of latency or malfunction in the speech engine. This isn't a language barrier thing either, he knows all the words, and probably speaks like this in his native tongue. Feels like there's not enough RAM to handle full sentences 🤷 Not shitting on him just to shit on him, the video content is fantastic, but the delivery is torture

@@nocandopdxmaybe because he is smarter than you and actually learned a second language 😂 he could have done it in his native language in Russian and f everyone who does not understand but still he took the energy to do it in English for most people to understand Maybe you can say thank you instead of shitting on him ?

kwestia czy aktualizowałeś soft, ściągnij apkę scooterhacking i zobacz ;)

@@HobbyWithAdam nie aktualizowaalem ale jest wersja DVR AT32F 1.8.7

@@lukaszsiarkowski5531 czyli masz zaktualizowany do wersji zablokowanej, została wymiana sterownika lub zabawa programatorem

Jak ustawić czułość manetki gazu żeby od razu po lekkim wciśnięciu nie jechała z pełną prędkością

@@skarabeuszthc8817 4:54 sport mode settings, what max amps to set ustaw łagodniejszą krzywą czyli np. zamiast 1 kropka na 15000 to na 12000 itd.

MiDu pobiera firmware z internetu, potrzebujesz dostęp do internetu/skrypt potrzebuje praw do zapisu, może z serwera zniknęło, nic więcej mi nie przychodzi do głowy.

try to install st-link drivers: STSW-LINK009

I have but it still wont work

@@emyyl2997 then run MiDu as admin, check wires, there is no other way :/

@@HobbyWithAdamig i cant do it but does it matter if i have a nordic version?

@@emyyl2997 no idea ;/

You need to install drivers for the st-link

Which ones? I cant seem to get any to work

Hallsensor Defekt

You should check what model you have and buy same, if its version 2.1 you should have NCEP85T14 if other, it may be random. With trembling motor issue you get no guarantee that replacing mosfet will fix it unfortunately :c

Make sure you have stlink adapter drivers installed (STSW-LINK009 for example)

@@HobbyWithAdam i install the drivers and it worked thanks

@@achillissssss which one did you use and how do you make it work?

@@emyyl2997 what do you mean I used the usb or the driver ?

Numer seryjny zmienia się aby móc odblokować prędkość (chodzi o region). Nie jestem pewny czy czegoś nie zepsujesz, osobiście bym nic nie robił bo ta niezgodność numerów seryjnych nic Ci nie robi, jakby oddać na gwarancję do serwisu to różnie mogą podejść do odblowania więc no.. :) Masz naklejkę na hulajnodze z poprawnym numerem seryjnym i tego bym się trzymał. PS jak masz SHFW to zorientuj się czy serwis wymieniał ci konektory od silnika (pokazane w filmie z tej serii), bo może być psikus jak się przetopią itd... I w sumie już chyba i tak masz kilka wykluczeń gwrancji, która jest taka sama jak w rowerach, czyli generalnie za dużo nie obejmuje :)

if you have firmware version which locks modifications, you must use st link

@@HobbyWithAdam vale muchas gracias

There is PWM FAN header inside. Out of the box you will get 5v fan which you put on the top and it will be fine. I saw people were adding fan inside the casing (30x30 or 40x40) and it will still work because case has mounting holes for fan. Best and enough be something quiet on the top, but if you don't like how it will look, smaller fan inside would be good too (pointing air up, cooling SSD and mobo from down) This thing is so energy efficient that it needs just anything extra