So all plastic do-dads have to be taken off and replaced when removing a shaft? I've got a bubble head driver that I want to remove from a graphite shaft. Thanks for the vid. It was informative!
Just getting into tinkering with my own clubs, replacing shafts, grips, heads, driver adapters, etc... Maybe I'll take this further as I've done a little bit of work for friends. Having said that, any recommendations for a shaft puller?
If you take out a steel shaft and replace it with a graphite one, How will this effect swing weight since Ultimately that's what I am trying to reduce going to graphite? Also how would I know if the replacement graphite shaft should be a tapered tip?
Most heads are parallel except Titleist, Mizuno, Srixon, XXIO and some Taylor made. I keep shaft ends TT and parallel to confirm fit. If you are going from steel to graphite shafts you will need a swing weight machine to properly weight the shafts.
Are you trying to reduce total club weight or swing weight? There is a difference. Just going to a lighter graphite shaft while using the same head and grip can increase swing weight while lowering total club weight.
When reshafting from steel to graphite two things will happen. You will reduce the club weight and increase the swingweight. To maintain SW you can drill the head or add a counter balance weight.
I've learned different makers use different methods to achieve the same results. I'm a hobby club builder. Place my club in the puller (graphite or steel) before applying the heat. White-painted wood heads are the devil.
What's shown here is the incorrect way to perform this task and will very likely damage the shaft from too much un-necessary heat. The correct order: Put the shaft into the puller 1st with some initial tension applied, THEN put heat on the hosel for 10 15 seconds MAX. Just remember to apply continuous gentle pressure on the puller and the shaft will easily come off in 1/2 the time and 1/2 the heat so it doesn't ruin the graphite fibers.
Although some people do the way you do it, most advanced will do it the way I’ve shown in the video To say my way is incorrect just indicated probably not to experienced in shaft removal
I’m changing from graphite to steel iron. Shafts and would like to give the graphites to my older friend. Thanks for that
Excellent tips. thank you.
Ever use a heat gun? Softer heat and less chance to debond the shaft epoxy. Pretty narrow range between the two epoxies. Just wondered.
Thank you
So all plastic do-dads have to be taken off and replaced when removing a shaft? I've got a bubble head driver that I want to remove from a graphite shaft. Thanks for the vid. It was informative!
Just getting into tinkering with my own clubs, replacing shafts, grips, heads, driver adapters, etc... Maybe I'll take this further as I've done a little bit of work for friends. Having said that, any recommendations for a shaft puller?
If you take out a steel shaft and replace it with a graphite one, How will this effect swing weight since Ultimately that's what I am trying to reduce going to graphite? Also how would I know if the replacement graphite shaft should be a tapered tip?
Most heads are parallel except Titleist, Mizuno, Srixon, XXIO and some Taylor made. I keep shaft ends TT and parallel to confirm fit. If you are going from steel to graphite shafts you will need a swing weight machine to properly weight the shafts.
Are you trying to reduce total club weight or swing weight? There is a difference. Just going to a lighter graphite shaft while using the same head and grip can increase swing weight while lowering total club weight.
When reshafting from steel to graphite two things will happen. You will reduce the club weight and increase the swingweight. To maintain SW you can drill the head or add a counter balance weight.
If you're not a pro, it's not gonna matter much.
Does someone have the link to the video where he does this with the pings he was talking about?
I've learned different makers use different methods to achieve the same results. I'm a hobby club builder. Place my club in the puller (graphite or steel) before applying the heat. White-painted wood heads are the devil.
Put the club in the shaft extractor under pressure , then use the propane until it lets go , no guess work
You are EXACTLY correct. This allows you to use minimal heat for the process.
Interesting!
What's shown here is the incorrect way to perform this task and will very likely damage the shaft from too much un-necessary heat.
The correct order:
Put the shaft into the puller 1st with some initial tension applied, THEN put heat on the hosel for 10 15 seconds MAX.
Just remember to apply continuous gentle pressure on the puller and the shaft will easily come off in 1/2 the time and 1/2 the heat so it doesn't ruin the graphite fibers.
Although some people do the way you do it, most advanced will do it the way I’ve shown in the video
To say my way is incorrect just indicated probably not to experienced in shaft removal