Which Lens for Street Photography?
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2024
- What's the best lens to use for street photography? It's a very personal thing and there's no 'obvious' choice. In this video I explore the various options for street photography lenses and we look at the pros and cons of different focal lengths.
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I'm the Founder and Course Leader at StreetSnappers, an organisation which provides street photography workshops and courses in London and across the UK, Venice, Lisbon and Prague.
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So many gems of solid gold advice. I will watch this again & again. I'm just getting into street photography and very much 'finding my feet'. I confess to being a little nervous about photographing strangers and have decided to use a 25mm prime on my MFT. I like to use a square crop and your lecture gave me an idea to shoot close to people by having them off centre so it looks like I'm photographing past them. I have a f/0.95 prime and love shooting wide open for the lovely bokeh with short DoF which looks fantastic in monochrome with a super vintage look. I found your lecture very inspiring. Yesterday I visited a local indoor market (on a shopping expedition) which has a beautiful high glass roof that provides some gorgeous light, is great when it's pouring down and I'm excited about revisiting it just to do some photography and your lecture has made me feel more confident. Thank you. Subscribed and liked.
Listening to you talk about street photography I felt myself rising. Thank you, Brian!
My pleasure - thanks for watching!
I had them all, but for me the 50/1.4 is second to none. I've never been a fan of the 35, but when going wide, it's my 24/3.8 and going narrow, I'll choose my 90/2.5. But as you pointed out, it will always be a personal choice! Keep on rolling!
Cheers Paul. The 50 1.4 is never far away from me either!
Great video as usual. Good luck in the new year.
Wonderful video Brian and spot on! I’ve been so comfortably embedded in the 50mm experience out on the streets. It’s become 2nd nature. I don’t have to spend any of my mental faculties dilly dallying with focal length. I can just simply react to a shot/moment and as you so eloquently point out your composition is mostly already constructed in your mind before raising your camera to your eyes because you know what that focal length does. For me personally, it is indeed that 50. It’s not better or worse than any other lens, it’s just what works for me and I do very much so enjoy the results I get with a 50.
I have considered going to 35/40 but I have to admit that I feel I haven’t even scratched the surface of what’s possible with a 50. Lovely episode Brian!
Thanks so much for the feedback! I think 'second nature' is a very good place to be and if a 50mm helps you achieve that, then great :-)
I wanted to pop in and say how much I enjoy your channel. I enjoy your 'as a matter of fact' approach to your script writing. Thanks for the great work.
P.S. I'm a 35mm desert island shooter, too. But lately I've been finding 27/28mm pretty enticing.
Thanks Aaron - really kind comments 🙂. Like you, the 35 is my go to lens but I'm enjoying the energy from the 28mm.
I use a signa 90mm (often cropped in to 135). The small size and distance it allows both make me less distracting to prespective subjects. In smaller spaces I'd use a 45mm for "what you see is what you get" kind of anthropological view. I've never fared well with anything wider.
If it works for you, then . . . . It works!
your page caption, though...
As usual. pretty much agree with everything you said. I'm a 28mm man, love to compose in that FOV. Big fan of Daido Moriyama as well and I'm lucky to live near where he often photographs so, looking forward to your next video!
Hi John, I’ve also been using the 28 more, especially in the last few weeks and I’m really enjoying it.
Thanks, Brian! Just off to London for the day with one lens.
Such a great video, always want to know more about different types of lens and how all they were used by different great photographers, thanks!
Thanks very much for the feedback, Sharon!
Thank you for this video.
I tend to use primes when I’m walking the street. 35 more than 5omm. 24 and 28mm, for me, is simply too wide. Unless I’m in a crowd, I have to get too close to my subject. In addition, I have to be more aware of the edges of my frame compared to 35 & 50mm FOV.
I just purchased a Panasonic GX9 with the kit zoom lens of 24-120 FF equivalence. I am surprised how much I am enjoying the FOV choice. I set it to ~ 35mm. It is faster to zoom with the lens than my feet. I’ll probably return to my prime lens but until then I am enjoying this freedom.
I have moved away from buying the fastest lens I can afford. Depending on the light, I tend to shoot mostly between f 5.6-8. Unless shooting at night, I don’t use f1:8-2.8 very much. Maybe if I did more portraits these fast lenses are expensive since I’m paying for fast glass without using that feature enough to justify the high cost of the lens. Just a personal preference.
It is interesting, to me, Saul Leiter frequently used the 85mm focal length as you suggested. Right before he died I met him in a bookstore. We spoke for ~ two hours and I didn’t know who he was. A very nice man. I’m sorry I didn’t more about him so we could have talked about photography. He was using a Panasonic M43 camera like me vs. a Leica that so many great street photographers were using. I suppose it is what is behind the camera that really counts.
Mask On Nurse Marty (Ret)
It’s good that you can make the zoom work for you. Getting the picture is the most important thing?
I’m fascinated (and envious) that you spent two hours with Saul Leiter - he was a fascinating man.
This is a tricky one. I'm 100% crop sensor and LOVED my 16-55mm f2.8 during the summer, but wanted to switch to a new faster prime for winter.
I must say my new 33mm (50mm equivalent) f1.4 is exactly as challenging as some said it'd be. It takes very straightforward pics in a slightly tight frame. I think it's healthy, though, making me climb uphill a bit.
I'm very conscious that I'd probably be getting quicker 'wow factor' with an 18mm (28mm equivalent) or similar, as I'm fairly brave. But I was using that width lazily on my 16-55mm.
It's the small things that can make you love a lens too, for example how the 33mm tucks nicely against my body compared to my hefty 16-55mm etc.
As a side note, the much unloved but still effective old Fuji 18mm F2.0 is incredibly light (116 grams!) as a backup 'just in case i need it' lens for my bag. Nice glass and good value second hand (overpriced new, I'd say). Noisy, slow-ish autofocus and feels slightly like it came out of a Kinder Egg, but that's how it gets so small and light.
Thanks Brian. I use a 50 mm almost exclusively (a 25 mm f1.4 on M43). I live in a small town and the longer focal length suits me better. I have 30 mm which I use occasionally for interiors and documentary work. I tried it for street and didn't like the perspective distortion and there a few people here and you can't get too close
Terrific talk. So educational.
RS. Canada
Many thanks Richard!
Fantastic insights. Positive reinforcement. Much appreciated.
Kind of you to say so - thank you :-)
I am on a 28mm kick, but also highly enjoy the 35mm, Manual focus and new to the Nikon DF. Thank you for the thought provoking subject.
Interesting thoughts. Good video. Thanks.
Thanks Brian for your explanations regarding the angles in which we shoot. Long time ago the 28 mil f2.8 was my main lens for all kind of subjects. Why f2.8? The matter of costs but at the end it helped a lot to get the eye balls much easier sharp compare to f2 or even f1.4. But using 28 mil depends on your personality and the interaction with strangers. From my point of view it‘s most important to habe enough „sideground“ around the main subject otherwise the photographs are only useful for passports. A 50 mil f2 (again costs) i used for pub indorshooting because the field of view and background is mostly much darker than the ca subject. Now 50 years later i don‘t have the‘bite‘ anymore, but i try….. Thanks for your channel!
Great video thanks. I like the way you give your opinion with reasons, without dictating to others. 👍
Definitely you continue building your legacy as a professional photographer and as a teacher of photography; and I want to learn about the excellence of photography among the arts.
What about a 40mm prime lens for street photography? Resons why not to use a polarizer filter? Thanks for your teachings !!!!
Hi Carlos, thanks for your comments! I think a 40mm prime is great and is a good compromise between 35 and 50mm; lots of street photographers use this and recommend it.
I don't use a polariser because I quite like to use reflections as an additional layer - rather than to eliminate them.
A very good video. I tend to use my old Fuji X100s for street photography. People take a lot less notice of me with that camera than a DSLR.
Great stuff, Brian. I exclusively use my Fujifilm X100F and my Sony with an 85mm prime when I want something a little more creative as us describe.
Thanks Graeme - sounds like a very good combo!
Hi Brian, another great informative video, I was particularly interested in your comment about pro mist filters in street photography, I've considered purchasing one and wonder which strength you use or would recommend, cheers
Thanks Paul! I use a 1/2 pro mist which works just about right for my. I wouldn't go any stronger than this and for a slightly more subtle effect you could try the 1/4.
My go to all around lens is the CV 35/2 Ultron II that stays glued to my M10. The size and image quality just works for me.. If at an event like tomorrows car show I'll carry 2 cameras with one being my Leica Q (28mm) and the Zeiss 50/2 Planar on my M10... Thanks...
Sounds like you have the perfect lens combo! That 35 Ultron is a great and under-rated lens!
Four weeks after first watching this I thought I'd pop back and comment. I used to venture out with a bag full of lenses (24mm f2.8, 50mm f1.8, 18mm - 55mmm and even a 55mm - 250mm) and swap and change around never actually preferring one over the other and confusing things but after watching you're video I took on board what you advised about sticking to one lens and that's exactly what I did and now use nothing but the Canon 24mm f2.8 prime, although I will occasionally swap to the Nifty Fifty to make use of the f1.8 aperture and it's just like you said. I'm now starting to visualise what the camera will see before I've even raised my arm, which in turn allows you that vital extra time required to capture 'that' moment we all strive to catch and knowing how close I need to be to a subject to 'frame it' without putting much thought into it I'm now being far more selective in what I shoot. This, to some degree, also helps to negate the feeling of failure when after being out for six hours and having shot perhaps two to three hundred images using various lenses and focal lengths and discarding 97% to the bin. Now, because I'm far more selective in what I shoot and I now understand more about what I'm looking for, because the lens has taught me, I'm shooting and discarding far far less, which is itself far more rewarding.
I tended to shoot street with 300mm f4 on m43, love that perspective...
Rather you than me!
I used to only use a 35mm, then with COVID felt I wanted to ‘isolate’ myself on the street so purchased an 85mm. Now using both, but only ever take out one or the other as I agree, your mind and eyes need to see in harmony with your chosen lens.
Interesting point about Covid. I heard about other people using longer lenses during Covid and have stayed with them. I wouldn’t want to use *only* the 85mm but as you say, combining it with the 35 sounds like a good combination :-)
A couple of things that may help anyone wrestling with this. Manual primes: I use them by choice now but I was introduced to them initially as a super cheap way to try different focal lengths. Charity shops, car boots as well as photo shops. I have two £10 tessars! No name is fine! My go to has been a pentax 50mm f1.4 (on a crop sensor) but recently dropped to 40mm f2.8 version - probably reflecting some of the challenges you are outlining. Secondly I agree with issues around zoom but do remember the 16-55 Fujifilm (kit) lens as another key part of understanding focal length as I could see what length I was using on the shots I liked in post/required least cropping. Experiment and shoot alot before you make any big choices/investments.
In 1965 (aged 10) I used 50mm, my fathers only lens. My first proper camera (1975) I bought 35 and 50mm. It took me years (until around 2005) to settle on 40mm which I find suits the bustle of African villages, towns and cities.
You have a similar ‘lens history’ to me. I also like the 40 - it’s a great compromise.
When I started in photography I only had a 50mm for many years and got used to this focal length. Now I often go out with my X100V and ramp up the focal length occasionally when I want to, but sometimes I'll go out with my X-Pro 2 and an f.2 23, 35 or 50 in crop sizes. Only ever one lens in one day. The photos I take with each are a little different and even after a few years I can't seem to settle on just one size, even though I appreciate the advantages of doing so.
Great point about zoom lenses-I've never thought about that, tbh. Same here regarding the 35mm btw. I will say this, give me an M with a 35mm and I'll never need another camera or lens again.
Really great video. I was a 35mm guy... but becouse of my kind of photography (street or reportage) I switched to 21mm or 25 (my lovely old lens). I can tell a story with more elements in a image.
I started on a 50 1.8 then used an x100 with 35 equivalent but for last year or two it’s been 28mm love this one it’s a great all rounder
On my APS-C camera I've been using a 35mm (50mm equivalent) but I've been experimenting with my kit zoom lens at 28mm (42mm equivalent). My kit lens isn't much bigger than the 35mm lens. I'm not sure I like wider angle. I'm very much an introvert, I don't want to enter other people's space bubble.
Indeed Mr. Brian. Using a zoom lens compromise the concentration when shooting street photography. The lenses I use most are the 28mm of my Ricoh GR and a Canon RF 35mm.
Thanks Jose! :-)
The Fujifilm 18-55 is what I usually have on my camera (an X-E4). I leave it set at 23mm (35mm equivalent) and shoot without zooming when I see a moment. Then, if time allows, I can zoom in or out for a second, more thoughtfully composed shot. And back to 23mm as I move on!
Thank you very much!. It's a pity I didn't watch your video 15 years ago. It would have confirmed what I felt then already. Lately, I find that I use the 24/28 more and more instead of the standard 35. Together with the 75. Not really tele, but a perspective ideal for isolation. Also because I am too shy to get close. I admire other people's work with the 50, but it is too narrow for general use for me. I don't have one for my Leica M.
I find 50mm limiting, I've used 40mm f2.8 for some years now on Canon, and I'm used to it. Feels the perfect size to encapsule what I see into the frame. I just got a Nikon FE with a 50mm 1.8, yesterday I found myself missing shots for being too close and having to get a bit away from the action. I'm eyeing the Voitlanger 40mm now.
Always an interesting subject as you explain well. I was in the 35 camp for years until COVID hit and then in order the gain a bit more distance to people I switched to the 50. Now I am very comfortable with the 50, but at times when seeing if the 35 will again work for me I find it awfully close. It is an adjustment. Then I switched to the 28 or even the 24 and found the frame was a challenge to fill with interest, but I keep trying wider. Sometimes the 35 works for me, but other times wider works. I should stop switching around and settle back to one lens as suggested here just like I was doing long before COVID hit. But which lens?
I was hankering after a Fuji X100 since its inception over a decade ago. I finally hit the "Buy Now" button a year ago with the X100V. It's everything I hoped it would be and has produced most of my favourite images since. Why?...
In manual focus mode you can pre-focus (zone focus) using the back-button to focus. Combine this with a glass viewfinder and silent Leaf shutter, the process is instantaneous and discreet.
I've gravitated to 2 film simulations. A modified Classic Negative (colour) and a Tri-X 400 (B&W), both with a strong grain effect, to take that digital edge off.
I've been shooting 45 years and it's clear to me that I see the world in 35mm field of view. I don't need to frame through the viewfinder any more, it's there, in my eyes. The Fuji just makes it super simple to secure that image, in a truly beautiful way.
Great channel by the way.
Great video Brian, thank you. Do you have any advice regarding image storage? I use Apple and Google cloud storage mostly but am starting to think maybe having local copies could be beneficial. Any advice would be useful. 🙏
Hi Paul, thanks for your feedback. personally, I'd be quite nervous about relying just on the cloud. I have copies of everything on 2 external hard drives and the a copy in the cloud using Backblaze. Physical storage is now so cheap that I really think it's worth having multiple physical copies. I think using only the cloud leaves you increasingly open to companies being hacked and also them putting up their fees way beyond what's reasonable. Hope that helps :-)
@@StreetSnappers perfect, thanks Brian.
I use 27mm on xe 4 which is 40 mm equivalent I am very much happy with it and also use Ricoh gr iii in crowded places
Sounds like the perfect combination :-)
I have tried 50mm and 28mm and I think 28mm is a better option but if you have the courage to get very, very close. Sometimes I have it, but other times I feel like I'm missing good photos because I don't get closer. For this reason, I am seriously thinking about getting an 85mm to photograph from afar, it seems crazy but I think it could be good for me.
Interestingly, When I shot Nikon and Fuji, the 35mm was my norm. I recently got a Leica M11 and have really embraced the 50mm focal length. I could not get into anything wider than the 35mm. Great video.
Oh, and I don’t use filters, either. ;)
@@FCJOC On the APS-C sensors, I used a 24mm on Nikon and a 23mm on Fuji, specifically the X100F. Both provide approx a 35mm FOV.
We are in Rome, specifically to photograph the city and its population. Mostly use the plastic lightweight Z28 F2.8. On a Z7 Full Frame. Its super light and fast. The image quality is excellent.
I always carry my 24-120 in my backpack just in cases.😊
The focal length depends on the environment. If you are in a big city with large buildings then wide angle will always work otherwise 35mm or wider can be too wide and 50mm becomes better but I have often used 135mm and even gone up to 180mm. It also depends on the look of the lens. I have lots of longer vintage lenses with spectacular bokeh which is worth utilising.
Hi Brian
Thank for posting this information. Very much appreciated.
Am considering an xt30 ii for street.
What do you think. Is it too big?
Thanks
Hi, thanks for commenting. The XT30ii is great for street photography - it's small, light and quiet (all the right ingredients!). Okay, it's a little bigger than some rangefinder style cameras but it's must smaller than most DSLRs. So I'd say 'yes'.
Thank you
Shortest video I watched all day at :13, what works for you. J/K I did watch the rest.
Actually, there's something I've become more aware of as I've gone on in my journey as a street photographer: a lot of it depends on your personality/proximity. Normally, I like to be off to the side and not be center of the subjects attention, so I use a 40mm (fuji 27mm on crop). A few weeks ago, I was shooting a protest in downtown for a local paper and had to go prime and dressed down (it was at night), I actually went for a 28mm (fuji 18mm f2) since it was slightly wider and I could get more background. Which was important because most of the shots I took of the signs were backdropped by a massively tall memorial in the background.
I think its more about personality than it is about the lens.
I'm interested in using a 21mm for street photography but I'm worried about distortion. I'm sure you consider it to be too wide but I'd like to hear your opinion on that
Great advice, thanks for sharing. I checked out the GR III expecting to find a viewfinder. I suspect using the back LCD screen for shooting takes some getting used to as opposed to a viewfinder which is more immersive and you're more ''in the zone'', so to speak, blocking out any distractions around you. I think I read there's a viewfinder you can attach to the GR III. BTW, out of interest, have you ever shot street with a smartphone?
At night time I feel like a viewfinder is more discrete too, at least in terms of less 'glowing camera' (although the bendy LCD screens mounts are handy). But alas, I use the back screen and my glasses clunk a bit on viewfinders.
It takes a while, but you will learn to see 28mm with your eyes alone. At that point, a viewfinder is not quite necessary. It is possible to aim and shoot without even looking at the screen.
I'm a big guy (193cm/6'4"). No matter how discreet my camera is... I'm not! lol. A 50mm lens lets me stand back a bit without getting more clutter in the frame and without making people nervous. One has to consider everything when selecting a lens, I guess! When I'm shooting black and white film, I _always_ use at least a yellow filter unless I'm indoors, or at night. B&W film is a bit oversensitive to blue light, which a yellow filter corrects for. It makes skin tones look nicer. One of the reasons why rangefinder cameras are perfect for B&W film is that color filters don't turn everything in the viewfinder yellow (or orange or red, which I also use regularly), as they do on an SLR. But overall - yes, find a good focal length and stick with it 🙂
Have to agree Brian, 35mm all the time for me.
Cheers Mark :-)
24, 50, 85 in a small inconspicuous bag. Depends on my mood which one I put on a full frame mirror less body. Offers immense fun …
I love the 40mm field of view
Me too - it's a good balance between 35 and 50.
My most used lens for street photography is my Voigtlander 40mm f1.2 E mount - I definitely prefer shooting street photography with manual lenses. I was originally looking at a 35mm, mainly Voigtlander's 35mm f1.4 but the 40mm I own definitely is the optically superior lens. I now love that in-between 35mm-50mm focal length and my lens feels more like a wide 50 with a more usable depth of field.
That Voigtlander is a great lens and I think the 40mm is a good compromise between 35 and 50 🙂
Right now I have an iPhone 13. Ok for street photography?
Hi Brian,thanks for this information regarding which lens. i have a Olympus prime lens 45mm 1:1.8 which will be my only lens I will use for my venture into street photography, do you think this is the right choice?
Hi Nigel, are you using a micro 4/3 camera or is it a film camera? If M4/3, this gives an equivalent focal length of 90mm (in full-frame terms) which I think is way too long for street photography. I'd suggest ideally the 17mm (about 35mm equivalent) or 25mm at the longest (50mm equivalent).
Thanks Brian, I’m using a very old M4/3 Olympus E - M10 camera. I sometimes use a 14-42 kit lens. Would this be a better choice?
Hmm, that depends on the day for me. I sometimes have 35mm days, sometimes 24mm days, occasionally even 135mm days when I'm out and about in the city with my a7iv
That's a good point and I completely get it. I feel the same sometimes.
I use a 35 mm pancake lens on my Sony Alpha 7 III. It's lightweight, non invasive and a good compromise between those 24 mm "hardcore street lenses" and the standard 50 mm lens.
That’s a great combination - I love pancakes for street photography, so small, light and discreet.
I have the Nikon 40 f 2 small and sharp
I do think that the setting has something to do with choice. Very crowded situations have me using a 24/28 while wide open environments, more like a 50. But my, “always with me” is a X100V, a compromise at 35.
Good point Gary. When I'm shooting in confined places - the old streets of Lisbon for example - I'm much more likely to shoot wider. Thanks for your comment :-)
I think the choice of focal length also depends on the location. If I get really close to the subject, then the focal length should be correspondingly smaller. Under normal conditions I use the Voigtländer 21mm Color Skopar (31.5mm FF) on my Sony A6500. With F8 and focusing fixed at 2.5 meters, everything in the image is sharp and I don't miss a single image with focus. In an open environment I use the Sony Zeiss 35mm f2.8, a wonderfully small and light lens with AF. Size and weight are very important to me because I would like to remain invisible.
Great points, thanks for your comment :-)
When you say you should get close in street photography, how close is close, what is your recommended distance from your main subject when using a 35mm, 50mm?
I'm starting out with street photography more serious lately and I love it. 35mm is very comfy. I use a x100v for that and it's easy to use. Recently I added a Leica Q3 (28mm but in real life it's wider, almost 24mm) to my tools and it is opening a new world to me. I had to learn the perspective of it but I love it also. I always take only one camera with me. But at the moment that's only te Q3.
I think the Q3 gives you plenty of flexibility and it's a good all-rounder - if you crop to 35 or even 50mm you still have plenty of IQ to play with.
For street photography I prefer a, “normal,” lens, but the reason is not often discussed. A, “normal,” lens is a 50mm, and not just on FF cameras. Normal, in this context, refers to how the human eyes sees things, but what does that mean?
What it doesn’t mean is angle of view (AOV.) Obviously the human eye sees a much greater AOV than a 35mm lens. It refers to how the eye sees perspective, or put another way, the spacial relationship between objects in view.
We know that wide angle lenses expand the apparent distances and telephoto lenses compress the distances of the objects in view. In both cases this represents a distortion of the way the eye sees the scene.
Remember the warning which used to appear on side view mirrors that read, “Objects appear further away than they are?” This had nothing to do with the size of the mirror.
The only focal length that represents the scene as the eye does is a 50mm (52mm actually) and it does not matter what size the light collecting plane is as long as it’s flat. This holds true whether one is shooting with a 1” to 8X10 surface, “normal,” remains normal regardless.
One might think a 35mm on a crop sensor is equivalent to a 50mm on a FF, but a 35mm is still a 35mm which is slightly wide angle and will distort the spacial perspective. I shoot with a 35mm on an APSC sensor because I prefer the size, weight and cost over a FF camera, but I recognize this is a compromise.
Sorry race fans, I wish it wasn’t so, but there ya have it. Of course I’d love a 50mm on a medium format to get the best of both, but only if I had a hireling to carry it for me.
I suppose the answer also is how close do you want to get to the subject, some people don't feel happy about standing practically over the person your about to take which would mean 50mm or even 90mm lens would suffice. Saul Leiter used a 135mm as his go to lens but then it does have a less aggressive almost relaxed look to the image.
I use both the 35 and the 50. But I never switch during the day. I just put one on in the morning and that it the lens du jour. they do different things. So you can walk the exact same route twice and take different pictures.
The Leica Noctilux 1:1.2/50 is the best lens you can get ❤
My 35mm on my m4-p is my go to lens.
My first favorite is 35mm and then 24mm follows then compliment it with 90mm macro....i use Sony gear.
Sounds like an effective combination!
Just ordered a new 35mm M lens, but… it will be attached to a Leica SL2-S 😊
I must come to the defense of the zoom lens for street photography, having used one for street photos for decades. Some think it's the lazy persons lens because instead of moving your feet you just zoom in or out. This is sometimes possible but far more often you move a great deal in order to control the amount of background you want. Depending on how open the street environment is rather that dancing across a busy street you can zoom in for the picture. And a zoom gives you far more reach. Not everything of interest is going to be within 10 or so feet of you. I use a 28 to 105mm most of the time but also a 24 to 70mm in closer environments. Is there anyone else who feels this way?
Are you talking about film or digital cameras? What do you use?
Hi - I use both film and digital and would use similar lenses for both.
Could you recommend an f1.8 or f1.4 for a 35mm lens and why
If you shoot in low light go for the 1.4, otherwise the 1.8 is more than adequate.
@@StreetSnappers That's great to know. Thank you so much
While I agree that the 4o mm is a good choice to consider instead of using a 35 or 5omm i don't see to many 40 mm full frame lens on the market, it seems that most manufacturers have a 35mm and a 5omm, in my camera collection of Pentax ,Panasonic Olympus Fujifilm and Nikon cameras the two 40mm lens is a 20mm Olympus 4/3 lens and a 28mm Viltrox for Fujifilm i don't have one 4omm lens on any of my full frame cameras , now all the lens i own are auto focus glass, i don't own any manual focus glass so i can't speak to that kind of lens. I just remembered Nikon has a plastic lens mount 4omm for Z mount cameras the reason that I bought the Zf and Z6Ii without that lens is the plastic lens mount, i don't need weather sealed lens all the time but I will not spend my money on a lens that has a plastic lens mount.
I think the focal length has to do a lot with the place where you are. In busy spots where people are indifferent towards the photographer (e.g. Manhattan or Shibuya) a 35mm lens may be perfect, in narrow roads of Fès or Marrakesh a 28mm or even 24mm might be better, and in some places you can't get close enough to people, so you'll need a longer lens.
Curiously, which 35mm (23mm) do you have on your Fuji?
I understand that you don´t ask me, but I have the 23 mm 2.0 WR on my X-Pro3. It´s built like a tank and best of all it´s weather sealed.
Ives used them both extensively. On balance I prefer the f/2 for street photography - it’s cheaper, lighter, much smaller and weather resistant. The ff/2.4 is a bit sharper and contrastier but there not much in it.
Yes, that’s my choice too.
@Brian, watching the video what I saw didn’t look like a Fuji lens. I’ve had the 23mm f/2 and the original 23mm f/1.4 with the clutch and sold them both. I’m now contemplating the new 23mm f/1.4, the Voigtlander 23mm f/1.4 (manual focus), the Sigma 23mm and the Viltrox 23mm for street (day & night) and weddings. I have the new 18mm f/1.4 and the 33mm f/1.4 as well. The 33mm stays glued to my X-T5 most of the time for all things.
To be in a search is fun, too. I am still considering between 50 mm and 35 mm.
Thanks - I agree!
My go to lens is a 35mm. I used to shoot mostly with a 24mm but since switching systems haven't yet replaced it.
I did recently pick up a manual 50mm lens which I really like.
Overall I like wide lenses for street photography for the up close and personal look.
Hi Sean - 'up close and personal' - me too!
Using a zoom lens doesn't mean that you have to use the zoom function. I use a 16-35, often set at 28 or 24mm.
Maybe be you already shares your views on MP size...some photographers say that for a 20x16 photo , 12 MPs is more than enough...thanks
Personally, I think that's enough if the image is sharp :-)
@@StreetSnappers thanks
If anyone is not sure what 'their' focal length is I would say experiment. A good (cheap) way to do this is try out some vintage lenses of different focal lengths. If you use zone focusing then the fact they are manual shouldn't make any difference amd dont forget all those early pioneers of the genre never had autofocus or histograms to rely on. When you are done experimenting you can probably resell the lenses you dont get on with for what you paid for them.
Zoom lenses are not versatile. Well, I do often have one Camera, one Lens only, but I do like to have two Cameras, one with a wide angle Lens and one with a short tele Lens. I use one of two of my Lenses, which are 14mm, 21mm, 24mm, 35mm, 55mm, 60mm, 65mm, 85mm, 110mm and 135mm. Last time I visited a major European city, I brought the 21mm and the 55mm, a nice set that worked very well for that city.
Agree with all you points., except for the first one, if you have a zoom like 24-70, and shoot mostly at 35, leave there and no need to do any changes on the zoom if you really have to shoot without delay......don't really understand your argument against that ......
I live in a small town so up close is not an option a lot of the time, I use a 28-75 and tbh I could do with a 200+ in a lot of aspects but that’s only my situation.
I usually used 35mm but Im trying to change it up, now im going with 50mm.
Sadly, Brian, you ignored the 40mm lens which I prefer as it combines the best aspects of the 35 (context) and the 50 (isolation) and also offers a wide maximum aperture. I have two, a Konica f1.8 and a Voigtlander f2. I also have a Schneider Kreuznach 38mm f2.8. They take marvelous photos.
The 40mm is a great focal length for street photography.
If I keep wrestling too much with my 50mm equivalent, maybe 40mm is where I should be heading too.
@@mikefoster6018 It's worth a try Mike - probably a very good compromise between 35 and 50.
@@StreetSnappers We'll see if my new 33mm (50mm equivalent) has me whimpering from frustration first (before I fall in love with it). I feel myself backing up so often to fit things into its frame that I may meet my end going off a cliff backwards, like Wile E Coyote.
Lumix 20mm 1.7 on my GX9 is what I use most of the Time.
so?
I’d love to help but I don’t understand your comment.
28mm. Closest to what the human eye sees
28 equivalent
35 for street. 50 for street portrait ot object
While I'm not particularly interested in street photography, I find myself looking for a perfect walkaround prime lens.
50mm (equiv.) is no good. It's too narrow, it blurs background too much and you need more distant to capture all the surrounding. But it's great for portrait.
35mm (equiv.) is great. I can capture the surrounding with a good distant, not too close nor too far. It's also good for capturing a small group of people and not-too-wide landscape. The portrait is not great but acceptable.
While I do not own any 24mm and 28mm (equiv.) prime, I have tried limiting myself using these focal lenght on zoom lens on several occasions. They are too wide. I have trouble filling the frame and the distant is too close that I feel uncomfortable.
Now I'm waiting to try a 40mm (equiv.) I just ordered a few days ago. It may be a nice middle ground between the wider 35mm and the narrower 50mm.
28mm forever
I love it too :-)
for me 70-200 is optimal. people are simply less wary of you when you take random scenes.
and 17-55 for bigger fov.
I think I’d find the 70-200 too long for me, even at the short end. But as I said in the video: if it works for you, it works!!
Daido exhibition is okay, but too much junk obscures the gems. We all take 100 duds for one good shot, he's shown the other 99 unfortunately. Serious case of Emporers new clothes.
35 or 40mm, but not on a Leica. Asking to be robbed.
no more faf, faffing about is in the past.
speak lot of craps then say :i dont have lot of opiniom ?
Thanks for your comment - very insightful.
Oh boy… where to start with this… There is no right lens for any kind of photography. There’s only the lens that will give you the result you have in your mind’s eye. Chasing shallow depth of field for its own sake or that 40mm Leica lens is only useful if your concept matches those things. Your best lens might be a 300mm because your minds eye envisages compression. My mind’s eye works with lenses between 85 and 135. It doesn’t imagine especially one kind of depth of field or another. Least of all does it imagine me spending a shit ton of money on that special lens that I somehow believe will turn me into Cartier-Bresson or W. Eugene Smith.
Don’t listen to the internet. It’s worse than useless. Listen to your own brain. Without a concept, you haven’t got a picture.
There's one of you in every comment section. He's trying to guide begginers.