Your video answered my question on whether to run the cables on the inside or outside of the handlebars. I recently got my bike back from the shop and noticed that they ran them on the inside instead of the outside due to the line hitting the brake much better. Thanks for the tips.
This was awesome and I got so many unexpected tips that I can use with other bike maintenance, so thank you! Hey, where did you get those toe straps? I'm looking for non-branded (no log) red/burgundy ones for my red 1973 Super Mondia.
Hi Joel, Sorry for the late reply. We were in the middle of moving out of State and just now getting things unpacked. I bought the tow straps on Ebay. The seller I purchased them from is no longer selling on eBay. But I'm sure if you search and enter the color and make of bike, along with the the toe strap search, you may find exactly what your looking for. Thank you for the inquiry.
Hey man, useful video, Thankyou. I’m doing something similar with a British built Raleigh, which has called for several segments of cable housing from front to back on account of the frame mounts (stupid design). I route it all fine, then as soon as I pull the lever it loses all tension and doesn’t tighten the brake. As far as I can see, it loses the tension at the front between the lever and the first cable mount on the top tube. I’m pulling my hair out trying to find put why it’s happening, only thing I can assume is it’s catching on the inside of the cable housing. You ever have this problem?
Yes, I rebuilt a 1962 Raleigh Gran Sport and it had two cable housings, one in the front and one coming off of the back of the top tube to the brake caliper stop, probably like yours. When I have had that problem it was usually the brake caliper not releasing, the anchor bolt slipping or the pear shaped cable end in the brake lever not seated properly. The anchor inside the brake lever flips back and forth. Is the cable end seated in the correct side? Are you able to squeeze the brake caliper against the rim with your hands, and if so, does it release? If you have some extra cable housing change it out and see if that works. Are they center pull brakes? Check the quick release on the brake caliper. Let me know.
Is installing center pull brakes ( putting new brake lines and housing on) for front and back brakes reasonable for the average joe to attempt doing? I have a 70s schwinn with no brakes currently, It’s the same brake setup described above by tim Doyle With two housings for the rear brakes. Also would you recommend changing out levers and calipers for new ones? Thanks!
Two questions. Do you grind the housing and inner coiled sheath flat before installing in the brake lever and the cable stops? Do you take a sharp object and open up the liner after cutting the cable housing? These two steps help immensely? Taking these steps keeps the housing from being jammed at an angle into the lever or the cable stop.
I saw that you route the back brake outer cable behind the bars but mine goes in front and under the top tube. It also hangs a bit down at the front brake. Would you recommend it going behind or in front of the bars?
Hi Jori, I routed mine that way because I routed the front cable behind the stem and you normally want to keep both routed the same way IF POSSIBLE. In your case since the back cable runs under the top tube, running the cable in front of the stem allows for a smooth bend around the handlebar. It’s difficult to know without seeing it but it may be too sharp of a bend to run it behind the stem. If your back cable is attached to the top tube with adjustable clamps, you can move the first clamp back further, then route it behind and see what the bend looks like. Or, you can spin the clamps around and run the cable on top then run it behind the stem. If you have braze-ons, you can try a new, stiffer cable which should keep it from drooping. Sorry this is so long but you can contact me through my website: classicjapanesebicycles.com and go to the SEND YOUR BIKE/Contact page. Send me some pictures. Hope this helps.
I bought those on eBay. They are early 80's Shimano AX Dyna Drive pedals. The threaded bolt diameter is 1 inch so they WILL NOT FIT ON MOST CRANKSETS. These pedals were only around for a view years. You must have the Dyna Drive compatible crankarms for them to be able to screw on your crankarms. Most diameters are 9/16.
These are the original pads. I did remove them and put some 303 protectant around the outside of them. The originals are hard to find but check out eBay. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=bicycle+brake+pads+for+suntour+superb+brakes&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=brake+pads+for+suntour+superb+brakes&_osacat=0
Im having issues with installing a Shimano exage sport brake caliper i follow all the methods of installing a brake caliper and i can't get it to retract it just gets stuck without spring back
Loosen this bolt (us this link) classicjapanesebicycles.com/images/ and the one behind (if there is one) it until it springs back. Make sure the spring is engaged and seated properly. Also check the cable housing and cable to make sure it is moving freely. Let me know if this worked for you.
Hi Pedro, first determine what end you need. Most likely you need the pear shape end. There is also a barrel shape end that is normally for mountain bikes. This link has cables that come with both ends so you just cut off the end you don't need. you can also check eBay. amzn.to/3ubfh5R
It depends on the length of the stem. If it's a long stem I run them behind the bar. If it's a short stem I run them both in front (under) the bar. That way the front cable will travel straight down towards the caliper and not at a severe angle. Normally, you want both cables to travel the same way, either in front of the bar or behind the bar. It's mostly aesthetics. It looks odd to run one cable one way and the other the opposite way.
Replace those old, stretched out cables for better shifting! Shifter Cables: amzn.to/3JPAlrh
This is perfect! Helped a lot. I have a vintage bike and a lot of online tutorials focus on newer bikes, which confused a beginner like me. Thanks!
Glad it helped! Sorry for the late reply. We are relocating.
Thanks a lot for this. It's super useful for older bikes. I have a 76 Sekine and I have a lot to learn :)
Thanks John, let me know what else you would like to see.
Your video answered my question on whether to run the cables on the inside or outside of the handlebars. I recently got my bike back from the shop and noticed that they ran them on the inside instead of the outside due to the line hitting the brake much better. Thanks for the tips.
That’s good to hear. Your shop is doing things the right way! 👍👊
Súper cool your videos from Colombia 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you like them! Thanks.
This was awesome and I got so many unexpected tips that I can use with other bike maintenance, so thank you! Hey, where did you get those toe straps? I'm looking for non-branded (no log) red/burgundy ones for my red 1973 Super Mondia.
Hi Joel, Sorry for the late reply. We were in the middle of moving out of State and just now getting things unpacked. I bought the tow straps on Ebay. The seller I purchased them from is no longer selling on eBay. But I'm sure if you search and enter the color and make of bike, along with the the toe strap search, you may find exactly what your looking for. Thank you for the inquiry.
Hey man, useful video, Thankyou. I’m doing something similar with a British built Raleigh, which has called for several segments of cable housing from front to back on account of the frame mounts (stupid design). I route it all fine, then as soon as I pull the lever it loses all tension and doesn’t tighten the brake. As far as I can see, it loses the tension at the front between the lever and the first cable mount on the top tube. I’m pulling my hair out trying to find put why it’s happening, only thing I can assume is it’s catching on the inside of the cable housing. You ever have this problem?
Yes, I rebuilt a 1962 Raleigh Gran Sport and it had two cable housings, one in the front and one coming off of the back of the top tube to the brake caliper stop, probably like yours. When I have had that problem it was usually the brake caliper not releasing, the anchor bolt slipping or the pear shaped cable end in the brake lever not seated properly. The anchor inside the brake lever flips back and forth. Is the cable end seated in the correct side? Are you able to squeeze the brake caliper against the rim with your hands, and if so, does it release? If you have some extra cable housing change it out and see if that works. Are they center pull brakes? Check the quick release on the brake caliper. Let me know.
Is installing center pull brakes ( putting new brake lines and housing on) for front and back brakes reasonable for the average joe to attempt doing? I have a 70s schwinn with no brakes currently, It’s the same brake setup described above by tim Doyle With two housings for the rear brakes. Also would you recommend changing out levers and calipers for new ones? Thanks!
Two questions. Do you grind the housing and inner coiled sheath flat before installing in the brake lever and the cable stops? Do you take a sharp object and open up the liner after cutting the cable housing? These two steps help immensely? Taking these steps keeps the housing from being jammed at an angle into the lever or the cable stop.
I saw that you route the back brake outer cable behind the bars but mine goes in front and under the top tube. It also hangs a bit down at the front brake. Would you recommend it going behind or in front of the bars?
Hi Jori, I routed mine that way because I routed the front cable behind the stem and you normally want to keep both routed the same way IF POSSIBLE. In your case since the back cable runs under the top tube, running the cable in front of the stem allows for a smooth bend around the handlebar. It’s difficult to know without seeing it but it may be too sharp of a bend to run it behind the stem. If your back cable is attached to the top tube with adjustable clamps, you can move the first clamp back further, then route it behind and see what the bend looks like. Or, you can spin the clamps around and run the cable on top then run it behind the stem. If you have braze-ons, you can try a new, stiffer cable which should keep it from drooping. Sorry this is so long but you can contact me through my website: classicjapanesebicycles.com and go to the SEND YOUR BIKE/Contact page. Send me some pictures. Hope this helps.
@@BicycleRestorationMan Thanks for the info and effort. I'll look into it. Because now it doesn't look so nice ;)
thanks for the video. I really like the pedals, do you have a link for them?
I bought those on eBay. They are early 80's Shimano AX Dyna Drive pedals. The threaded bolt diameter is 1 inch so they WILL NOT FIT ON MOST CRANKSETS. These pedals were only around for a view years. You must have the Dyna Drive compatible crankarms for them to be able to screw on your crankarms. Most diameters are 9/16.
@@BicycleRestorationMan excellent info, thanks for the quick update!
that hey viewers was straight from rj bike guy lol
Great minds think alike! 👍👊
Hey, what brake pads are those? A link or something would be great. Thanks!
These are the original pads. I did remove them and put some 303 protectant around the outside of them. The originals are hard to find but check out eBay.
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=bicycle+brake+pads+for+suntour+superb+brakes&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=brake+pads+for+suntour+superb+brakes&_osacat=0
Im having issues with installing a Shimano exage sport brake caliper i follow all the methods of installing a brake caliper and i can't get it to retract it just gets stuck without spring back
Loosen this bolt (us this link) classicjapanesebicycles.com/images/
and the one behind (if there is one) it until it springs back. Make sure the spring is engaged and seated properly. Also check the cable housing and cable to make sure it is moving freely.
Let me know if this worked for you.
Here's another video you will enjoy: ruclips.net/video/HDQdoxW2b2w/видео.html
Where can I buy vintage bike break cable?
Hi Pedro, first determine what end you need. Most likely you need the pear shape end. There is also a barrel shape end that is normally for mountain bikes. This link has cables that come with both ends so you just cut off the end you don't need. you can also check eBay. amzn.to/3ubfh5R
Shouldn’t the cable pass under the handlebar and not over?
It depends on the length of the stem. If it's a long stem I run them behind the bar. If it's a short stem I run them both in front (under) the bar. That way the front cable will travel straight down towards the caliper and not at a severe angle. Normally, you want both cables to travel the same way, either in front of the bar or behind the bar. It's mostly aesthetics. It looks odd to run one cable one way and the other the opposite way.