I have no memory of how I replaced the tires the first time on my 2007 band saw but this time it was giving me the fantods. Lots of videos show how easily new urethane tires slip on with the wheels removed, but I didn't want to bother with that. I'm here to tell you that your trick with a strip of t-shirt worked EASILY the first time! Many, many thanks!
I have been putting off this job for a long time. After watching your video I have the confidence to get right on it. Keith as always thanks for your time and effort.
thanks for all the great advise Keith Rucker. Your video is helping me and my family understand this old bandsaw with no name from an old warehouse. I contacted Bobby from woodworkers tool works and he was very helpful and will be supplying me with the upgrades I need to get this machine up and running. Also he will be giving me my military vet. discount. Thank you, deeman
Thanks for the vid; I worked in a shop that had more than 15 bandsaws for cutting vacuum formed parts. The biggest (and nicest) that I ever serviced/rebuilt was a 42" or 48" Tannewitz with direct drive. Putting the tires on that one was a job, but once it was all done & tuned up it ran really nicely. Never did crown the tires, guy I learned from hadn't done it so I didn't. Next time I replace a set I will be sure to do it though. Thanks Kieth Rucker, the information you share with us is invaluable.
Here's a tire gluing hack that works for me... When nobody is looking, steal one of those decorating bags from the kitchen (hopefully its disposable), fill it with glue and squeeze the glue in front and behind the dowel as you turn it. The dowel will help spread the glue evenly on both surfaces. I found that to be easier than trying to force the bristle brush in there. Another way... Save an empty toothpaste tube. Cut the end off of it, clean out the leftovers, fill it with glue, fold over the back end and roll the tube end as you empty the glue. I'm sure you could use those hacks for a lot of other things too. Don't knock it till you try it!
Thanks SO much for making this video! I just bought my first bandsaw, and I never would have had the courage to buy a used one without all the great info from kind people such as yourself BTW, I gave Bobby a call, and even though it is almost six years to the day from when you made this, he picked up the phone right away. Thanks again!
I will give away our secret in our shop with several bandsaws. We stopped buying tires years ago. Now we use several wraps of 3m Scotch 33 electrical tape or even a top quality duct tape. We have saws from 12" to 36" and this is how they all run in production situations without failure.
Kind of what I was thinking too. Self sealing tape is probably OK too. www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B079G3XRKX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Being a woodworker i life with my 25" Bandsaw for decades. And i say: this is an awesome good explanation. Can´t be done better. Thank you, greatest respect.
Keith. I like that you want to talk about how important it is to cut the power off and place the wire where you can see this. Most people do not mention it at all. In Sweden called this "shut down and lock" we often have protection switch with locking arrangements in workshops and in the industry. Each repairman on the machine has a personal padlock fitted before the job and and removed when the job is finished for the specific worker. In this way, the machines will be unable to started unintentionally.
This is a really helpful video for me, a beginner. You went into all the details that I hoped you would. Thank you for taking the time to make and post this.
Keith, Thanks for the stroll down memory lane. I used to hate to put tires on bandsaws, unless they were the new units with the notch in the center of the wheel and the tire as well. Those tires got put on the hood of my service truck to get them nice and warm to make them more pliable while I removed the blade and old tires. Putting them on was a snap! After a couple of the flat tires came off while the saw was running that I had installed, I lost confidence and refused to replace them anymore. That's an old Powermatic. The newer Powermatic products are painted sort of a mustard yellow for lack of a better description. I have, however, never seen one with the cone pulleys for different blade speeds. The ones I worked on use a Reeves drive (adjustable pulleys) for speed control. This same method is used on variable speed mills not using a VFD. Regards, Dave
Thanks Keith! I recently purchased a Powermatic 141 Band Saw (Circa 1965) that I am completely restoring ($50 a real steal!). This video will help me a lot! I'm doing a ground up restoration, including new paint, bearings, and tires. I hope to find a blade that will allow me to cut aluminum as well as wood being that I do not have the speed changing transmission in this model. It runs at 3000 sfpm.
Thank you sir, another great video. I sure got lucky when I replaced the tires on my Harbor Freight 14 inch band saw. I just ripped the old one off and stretched the new one into place. So far so good, but after watching this video, maybe I should re visit that project. Now that I think about it, I do hear some thumping going on in there. Sure makes sense when you do it correctly. Oh well, tomorrows project :) .
Thanks for the video Keith. A few years ago I used some acetone to clean something with a rag, as you did, but noticed in a couple of minutes I could taste it. My conclusion was that acetone migrates through your skin, so I never used it again without gloves. Cheers, al
This was a truly great video. I had no idea that there was so much involved with installing these tires. I need to take a second look at the new polypro tires I put on my Delta 16" bandsaw. I did not glue them, nor equalize the tension as you did. I also used "C" clamps to help me install the tires. (Oh well!)
Thank you,. We are going to set up our Walker Turners soon. Four very happy old rust covered work horses. They have a new home....have come out of storage.
thanks for the information on crowning the tires, i bought an old Rockwell/Delta and just finished restoring it back to its original stae when it was new just needed to crown the new tires, thanks Mr. Rucker!!!
Thanks for posting this. I have to do the same thing with my Craftsman band saw. Mine is one of the newer ones that has the urethane tire. The old one was shredded to pieces. I learned a lot from this video!
I've been fixing up an old (30's-40's?) Rockwell (Delta) 14" band saw with gear box. The tires were extremely hard to remove, hard, glued, I had to chisel them off. I found urethane tires that required no glue and they worked wonderful. The wheels have a crown built in and a edge to the rim that keeps the tire from walking.
If your holding the sandpaper freehand without a solid unmovable support, you are not truing up the tire surface to be round...you are simply making a surface that is parallel to the original wheel surface at best: at worst you are humps into it from vibration and bumps. For proper truing, follow the principle of lathe turning, you need a solid rest. An old installed blade with the teeth ground down can serve as a good driver for the free wheel work without risking getting cut.
If that is contact adhesive, is usually is supposed to dry on both sides before you have one side touch the other. But I understand the dilemma of adhering a stretchy surface with contact glue.
Terrific video. I just acquired a new to me old Montgomery Ward/Powr Kraft Band saw from the 60s perhaps. I definetly need to replace the tires on it and the wiring as well. This video will be very helpful
For best results and dynamic blade tenacity it is necessary to crown the blade transport wheels to a radius equal to the radius of the wheel itself. I learned that the hard way; carving 18" timbers. I'm currently in the testing phase of my latest veneer resaw prototype. It cuts 18" deep in a throat 14" wide with a 2HP drive train. I use a proprietary rail-and-sled feed system that factors blade lead into its locked position using rails of variable length and robustness to start that first flat cut and veneer the log from there. I feed it with my pinky finger. Using two high performance Iturra tensioning springs, it runs 1" lennox carbide-tipped resaw blades with only 3/32" of kerf to produce 1/16" veneers 18" wide as long as your workpiece. Because the tracking and tension system is frictionless, there is no blade flapping at any setting and the cut finish is so smooth it looks like it just came out of a planer, not a band saw. It's ready-to-glue ! I'm trying to retire falbergsaws.com but I want to introduce this prototype first because when ya'll see what a sweet machine this is going to change the way they build bandsaws hereafter; you'll no longer settle for the antiquated designs you're now getting from the big corporate tool companies.
+Karen McBride Yeah, my wife who is an English teacher, takes quite the pride in the fact that our name is a verb. She tells that story every chance she can!
what if you took a c clamp and clamped it sideways on the wheel instead of onto the belt making a fence around the belt keeping it from being able to pop off
I replaced my bandsaw tires twice and everyone seems to complain how hard they are to get on. I wish people would take their wheel off it only takes two seconds and makes tire replacement a breeze.
I have a King-Seeley (Craftsman) band saw that my father bought new in 1948. What's interesting is that the wheels are crowned and grooved and I know for a fact that they are original.
I think its been said already. The idea of coating both surfaces is that they both dry before the 2 surfaces are put together. It wont matter as I dont think it will come off.
You’ve obviously do not read enough comments on RUclips videos. There’s only one way of doing any job and that's the person writing the comment's way, anything else is WRONG! Another great video, thanks.
Thank you! My hunch is that rubber cement would be an ideal adhesive. I've used contact cement for years on various projects and it is suppose to be allowed to DRY on both surfaces. Of course this is almost impossible to do on the tire and wheel, so rubber cement may be a better bet.
being the shade of yellow it is, and the consistency it appears to be; I would say the glue is 3m super weather strip adhesive. common uses include weather stripping, gaskets, rubber on metal anywhere needed.
I may be a little late to the party with this comment. I use the same technique but with a twist. I use an 2" rubber sanding disc mandrel in a cordless drill. Place it centered on the idler shaft and use the drill to spin the idler. Makes it a lot simpler to do the job and keeps your fingers out of the path of the spokes.
Keith I have a 1942 bandsaw delta Rockwell, wood and metal with the reduction gear, I can't find the lower bearings do you know where to find them. Thanks
Nice! I just bought an old Powr-Kraft 14" band saw from the 40's or 50's for $40. My tires are a little cracked but not too bad. My problem is I don't know how long of a blade I need. There is one on there now, but it's too long. They jerry-rigged it by adding a block of plywood under the top adjusters....not sure why. But it rubs on the top of the guard. Is there a place to go to find that information?
Thank you for your excellent video. Now I am convinced that I can install new tires on my old Crescent 36" bandsaw by myself with its wheels on it. BTW, I cannot find the contact cement(or corresponding adhesive) in the site you mentioned.
Great video. Thank you! I have an issue I'm hoping you can help me with. I recently bought a powermatic 143 from a friend that used to belong to his dad. The tires were falling apart so I decided to replace them. After reading a bit I decided on urethane tires and they keep coming off. Is it because there's no channel for them to sit in? If so then I'll just buy rubber tires and glue them in but I was hoping these would work. Thank you for any insight you can offer.
Neither of my band saws even have rubber wheels but they both seem to work fine. I don't know that they ever had them either by looking at them. On a metal saw wouldn't chips cut your tires up and embed themselves pretty fast?
***** And also a big consideration is the coolant on the rubber, All the saws I have worked on had the crown machined into the wheel and ran no rubber but they were all for metal only.
Great tutorial. Solved all my issues . I have an old Hutchinson with flat wheels. I was going to use urethane tires; but I can see the reasoning behind standard rubber and glue, etc.
Be wary about sanding it to try give the glue more grab on the tire, I once had to stick rubber and urethane to various surfaces and I did a whole lot of trials and the more shine on the surface the better they stuck, sanding the surfaces made them come off about 50% easier- failure was caused by little of pieces of the surfaces tearing off the parent material. Do some tests see for yourself
I've been working to restore my Grandfather's Craftsman three wheel bandsaw. She's a 1950's vintage with 6 inch wheels. I replaced the tires by following your method. There are three holes in each wheel, making installation easier than I thought. By tying down the tire into two adjacent holes and using a small metal rod, starting at one hole and rotating the rod as I lifted the tire edge onto the track surface, it was fairly easy to mount the tire. This astonished me because I'm not usually that lucky. The other two tires were equally easy. I did rotate the rod between tire and wheel for two orbits along the circumference of each wheel to better seat the tires as you suggested. Now I'm ready to crown the tires. I'm not really quite sure about how much surface I should remove from the tire edges. You mentioned a minimal of one or two degrees, using a stick and sand paper. How many turns per edge would you suggest? Thanks for your video. Very informative!
thank you keith, I adjusted the guides and I centred the blade, also applied more tension , and it seems to be working better. just one more question at this time, im working with a older blade given to me by the seller, probably dull, how do I know how big a bandsaw blade to buy .
+Paul Shaw The easy way to do it is adjust the top wheel so that it is about half way in the middle of its adjustment and just wrap a piece of string around everything and mark where the end meets the middle of the string. Then stretch out a tape measure and see how long it is. Or, you could do it mathematically - Add the circumference of one wheel to twice the distance between the center of the two wheels and that is the length of blade that you need.
Hey, Keith...great info! Thx! I am working w/ a Maru 16" metal/wood vertical band saw - Model 16 MWM. Cannot find anything on t/ web. T/ problem is it shakes and is very noisy at times. We thought it needed a new gear box, so, I drained t/ gear oil out - about a cup full came out, but, was very dark...and no metal pieces in it. Now, I'm thinking it might be a wheel-bearing.?
My pulley on my blade wheel (not the motor pulley) works itself loose and comes off. I have re-positioned it and tightened the set screw several times, but in a few minutes of using it, it works loose again. Someone suggested I coat the set screw and keyway with JB Weld. What would you do about this problem? Thank you.
Thanks for your great videos! What do you think of taking those wheels over to your machine shop and turning a crown on them so you can use the tires without having to sand a crown in them every time?
I have a 16 inch band saw with cast iron wheels it doesn't have rubber on wheels, the blade runs with teeth overhanging. It is Makita old model. Bought it in Saudi Arabia in 1985. Good running since then, no problems. I have not been able to find any literature on Internet. Makita is no response. I wish to know more about it can you help? In India and far east they almost all have steel wheels with no rubber but I have not been able to get any proper working details about the crowning of the steel wheels, they seem to have no crown. Can any one help. Thanks.
Keith, I'm enjoying your bandsaw tire replacement video. I just bought a Sprunger 10" bandsaw that needs work. Are you familiar with Sprunger tools? Where can I get parts for my saw: manuals, guides, rip fence, miter gauge, etc..
I always enjoy your videos, Keith. They are always a "thumbs up" from me. This one however gets a "thumbs up," for the "3S's" comment that you "made up". And why not!? It works! "Scrape. Sand. Solvent" :)
+Paul Shaw It just makes for a big mess when you try to put it all together when the glue already in place. Also, the glue has a pretty short working time so would have to be real quick....
Check out your wheels before you spend any time or effort crowning your tires. The wheels on my inexpensive import 14" saw are crowned; and the new urethane tires that I installed last night follow the shape of the wheel perfectly. Incidentally, the urethane is more difficult to stretch than the rubber used in this demo. Once on, I decided to forego using any glue at all.
Ack, I tried to recrown my bandsaw tires with an angle grinder and a sanding pad and a big piece of rubber came loose from the edge of the tire. Is this likely to happen with a new tire or might this have been because of old tires? I am unsure how old this saw is and when it last had them changed, it is atleast 50-60 years old, I think the tires must have been changed once at least. I would have liked urethane tires so I would not have to crown because I am afraid of ruining a new rubber tire now... But they don't exist for my size saw (24" wheels)
Thanks, Also, you can use rubber cork I find it smoother and easier to install. The gluing process is easier because you the cork is in length. Contact glue on the wheel and the cork, glue the cork on the wheel and cut at the join at an angle, The cork is more resistant than the rubber. Sanding and adjusting is the same process. Take a look at this web site un UK scosarg.com/accessories-spares/bandsaw-accessories DOT html I am sure those can be found anywhere around the world.
hi thereI just got my first bansaw, a vintage beaver, and I did the set up as beast I could , but I can not cut a straight line. when I follow my line , the blade goes off line. how do I fix this please
+Paul Shaw Sounds like you have issues with the guides on your band saw. You should have a guide above and below the table to keep the blade running straight. If your saw does not have them, you can purchase just guides from multiple places.
+Paul Shaw The size of the band saw is the diameter of the wheels. As for blades, try Custom Band Saw Blades (custombandsawblades.com/). They will make them whatever length you want....
***** Gotcha. I was thinking more along the lines of them slipping, but that wouldn't make much sense. I noticed on Mathias Wandel's homemade bandsaw, he used very curved wheels and bike inner tubes, just put on there. I guess for low use, that would work fine. Also, you ought to take a look at Frank Howarth's J.A. Finney bandsaw. I think it's a 36"er and from sometime in the early 1900s.
Thank You! I am restoring my Granddaddy's antique silver bandsaw. This video will help me alot. Have a Great Day!
I have no memory of how I replaced the tires the first time on my 2007 band saw but this time it was giving me the fantods. Lots of videos show how easily new urethane tires slip on with the wheels removed, but I didn't want to bother with that. I'm here to tell you that your trick with a strip of t-shirt worked EASILY the first time! Many, many thanks!
I have been putting off this job for a long time. After watching your video I have the confidence to get right on it. Keith as always thanks for your time and effort.
thanks for all the great advise Keith Rucker. Your video is helping me and my family understand this old bandsaw with no name from an old warehouse. I contacted Bobby from woodworkers tool works and he was very helpful and will be supplying me with the upgrades I need to get this machine up and running. Also he will be giving me my military vet. discount. Thank you, deeman
Very well planned video. Thorough instruction, easy to understand. Thanks Keith!
Thanks for the vid; I worked in a shop that had more than 15 bandsaws for cutting vacuum formed parts. The biggest (and nicest) that I ever serviced/rebuilt was a 42" or 48" Tannewitz with direct drive. Putting the tires on that one was a job, but once it was all done & tuned up it ran really nicely. Never did crown the tires, guy I learned from hadn't done it so I didn't. Next time I replace a set I will be sure to do it though. Thanks Kieth Rucker, the information you share with us is invaluable.
Hi Keith,
Nothing beats well maintained tools, no injuries, better precision and the tools last longer.
Thanks,
Pierre
Here's a tire gluing hack that works for me...
When nobody is looking, steal one of those decorating bags from the kitchen (hopefully its disposable), fill it with glue and squeeze the glue in front and behind the dowel as you turn it. The dowel will help spread the glue evenly on both surfaces. I found that to be easier than trying to force the bristle brush in there.
Another way...
Save an empty toothpaste tube. Cut the end off of it, clean out the leftovers, fill it with glue, fold over the back end and roll the tube end as you empty the glue.
I'm sure you could use those hacks for a lot of other things too. Don't knock it till you try it!
Thanks SO much for making this video! I just bought my first bandsaw, and I never would have had the courage to buy a used one without all the great info from kind people such as yourself BTW, I gave Bobby a call, and even though it is almost six years to the day from when you made this, he picked up the phone right away. Thanks again!
I will give away our secret in our shop with several bandsaws. We stopped buying tires years ago. Now we use several wraps of 3m Scotch 33 electrical tape or even a top quality duct tape. We have saws from 12" to 36" and this is how they all run in production situations without failure.
Kind of what I was thinking too. Self sealing tape is probably OK too.
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B079G3XRKX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Being a woodworker i life with my 25" Bandsaw for decades. And i say: this is an awesome good explanation. Can´t be done better. Thank you, greatest respect.
Keith. I like that you want to talk about how important it is to cut the power off and place the wire where you can see this.
Most people do not mention it at all.
In Sweden called this "shut down and lock" we often have protection switch with locking arrangements in workshops and in the industry. Each repairman on the machine has a personal padlock fitted before the job and and removed when the job is finished for the specific worker.
In this way, the machines will be unable to started unintentionally.
This is a really helpful video for me, a beginner. You went into all the details that I hoped you would. Thank you for taking the time to make and post this.
Keith,
Thanks for the stroll down memory lane. I used to hate to put tires on bandsaws, unless they were the new units with the notch in the center of the wheel and the tire as well. Those tires got put on the hood of my service truck to get them nice and warm to make them more pliable while I removed the blade and old tires. Putting them on was a snap! After a couple of the flat tires came off while the saw was running that I had installed, I lost confidence and refused to replace them anymore. That's an old Powermatic. The newer Powermatic products are painted sort of a mustard yellow for lack of a better description. I have, however, never seen one with the cone pulleys for different blade speeds. The ones I worked on use a Reeves drive (adjustable pulleys) for speed control. This same method is used on variable speed mills not using a VFD.
Regards,
Dave
The wife is buying me a "new" 10 inch saw for my birthday next week. Thanks for a great vid. Wish I had a mate like Bobby !!!!Happy days.
Good luck with your new saw! Have fun and make some sawdust!
you give such great explanations and see so friends. Thanks for taking time to make this video. It saved me a lot of aggravation with my saw.
Thanks Keith! I recently purchased a Powermatic 141 Band Saw (Circa 1965) that I am completely restoring ($50 a real steal!). This video will help me a lot! I'm doing a ground up restoration, including new paint, bearings, and tires. I hope to find a blade that will allow me to cut aluminum as well as wood being that I do not have the speed changing transmission in this model. It runs at 3000 sfpm.
Thank you sir, another great video. I sure got lucky when I replaced the tires on my Harbor Freight 14 inch band saw. I just ripped the old one off and stretched the new one into place. So far so good, but after watching this video, maybe I should re visit that project. Now that I think about it, I do hear some thumping going on in there. Sure makes sense when you do it correctly. Oh well, tomorrows project :) .
Especially in the winter time, it’s a great idea to run the tire under hot water from your kitchen tap to make it softer and easier to stretch.
Thanks for the video Keith. A few years ago I used some acetone to clean something with a rag, as you did, but noticed in a couple of minutes I could taste it. My conclusion was that acetone migrates through your skin, so I never used it again without gloves. Cheers, al
This was a truly great video. I had no idea that there was so much involved with installing these tires. I need to take a second look at the new polypro tires I put on my Delta 16" bandsaw. I did not glue them, nor equalize the tension as you did. I also used "C" clamps to help me install the tires. (Oh well!)
As always I love watching your videos
Thank you,. We are going to set up our Walker Turners soon. Four very happy old rust covered work horses. They have a new home....have come out of storage.
thanks for the information on crowning the tires, i bought an old Rockwell/Delta and just finished restoring it back to its original stae when it was new just needed to crown the new tires, thanks Mr. Rucker!!!
Nicely done Keith. Thanks again!
Thanks for posting this. I have to do the same thing with my Craftsman band saw. Mine is one of the newer ones that has the urethane tire. The old one was shredded to pieces. I learned a lot from this video!
I've been fixing up an old (30's-40's?) Rockwell (Delta) 14" band saw with gear box. The tires were extremely hard to remove, hard, glued, I had to chisel them off. I found urethane tires that required no glue and they worked wonderful. The wheels have a crown built in and a edge to the rim that keeps the tire from walking.
If your holding the sandpaper freehand without a solid unmovable support, you are not truing up the tire surface to be round...you are simply making a surface that is parallel to the original wheel surface at best: at worst you are humps into it from vibration and bumps. For proper truing, follow the principle of lathe turning, you need a solid rest. An old installed blade with the teeth ground down can serve as a good driver for the free wheel work without risking getting cut.
If that is contact adhesive, is usually is supposed to dry on both sides before you have one side touch the other. But I understand the dilemma of adhering a stretchy surface with contact glue.
Agree, sorta hard to let them air dry and tack up but it does work this way, just let it set longer.
Terrific video. I just acquired a new to me old Montgomery Ward/Powr Kraft Band saw from the 60s perhaps. I definetly need to replace the tires on it and the wiring as well. This video will be very helpful
Excellent video Keith. I'm surprised there are not more videos on properly crowning tires. Thank you for documenting!
It was extremely easy for me. Soaked it in hot water for a few minutes and then used two trigger clamps with rubber ends. Took about 45 seconds.
Outstanding job. Thank you!
Thanks, Keith sure a good informative video as always.
For best results and dynamic blade tenacity it is necessary to crown the blade transport wheels to a radius equal to the radius of the wheel itself. I learned that the hard way; carving 18" timbers. I'm currently in the testing phase of my latest veneer resaw prototype. It cuts 18" deep in a throat 14" wide with a 2HP drive train. I use a proprietary rail-and-sled feed system that factors blade lead into its locked position using rails of variable length and robustness to start that first flat cut and veneer the log from there. I feed it with my pinky finger. Using two high performance Iturra tensioning springs, it runs 1" lennox carbide-tipped resaw blades with only 3/32" of kerf to produce 1/16" veneers 18" wide as long as your workpiece. Because the tracking and tension system is frictionless, there is no blade flapping at any setting and the cut finish is so smooth it looks like it just came out of a planer, not a band saw. It's ready-to-glue ! I'm trying to retire falbergsaws.com but I want to introduce this prototype first because when ya'll see what a sweet machine this is going to change the way they build bandsaws hereafter; you'll no longer settle for the antiquated designs you're now getting from the big corporate tool companies.
Great video again thanks Keith. My bandsaw is extra fun with three wheels.
Loved working on the band saw way long time ago in wood shop. One day I hope to have a shop.
Perfect video I followed your instructions and was some in less than 15 min. Thank you!!!
Great how to video Keith.
Thanks Keith! I would really like to see a video of that big Crescent bandsaw someday!
Awesome you are the man! Tied off both ends of the tire and pulled down!
Great Video! Kieth!
Thanks for a great video. So nice to meet you on uTube - the man who made Rucker a verb!
+Karen McBride Yeah, my wife who is an English teacher, takes quite the pride in the fact that our name is a verb. She tells that story every chance she can!
what if you took a c clamp and clamped it sideways on the wheel instead of onto the belt making a fence around the belt keeping it from being able to pop off
I replaced my bandsaw tires twice and everyone seems to complain how hard they are to get on. I wish people would take their wheel off it only takes two seconds and makes tire replacement a breeze.
Thanks for the info - very informative.
Great video. Thanks!
this video came along just in time!!! thank you i thought we had to vulcanize our wheels but was unaware it has tyres
I have a King-Seeley (Craftsman) band saw that my father bought new in 1948. What's interesting is that the wheels are crowned and grooved and I know for a fact that they are original.
I just used a couple of zip ties to hold the tire, Enjoyed the video.
Starting fluid (ether alcohol) often does a good job removing adhesive.
Excellent video! Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks Keith, very helpful.
+Geeks Wood Shop Glad to help!
A torch or heat gun was the magic solution for me. The glue just wiped off when heated.
I think its been said already. The idea of coating both surfaces is that they both dry before the 2 surfaces are put together. It wont matter as I dont think it will come off.
A friend of mines wife got severely injured from acetone getting into a small cut in hurt hand . I would recommend gloves while using acetone.
You’ve obviously do not read enough comments on RUclips videos. There’s only one way of doing any job and that's the person writing the comment's way, anything else is WRONG!
Another great video, thanks.
great video Keith.. Thanks for sharing
Thank you! My hunch is that rubber cement would be an ideal adhesive. I've used contact cement for years on various projects and it is suppose to be allowed to DRY on both surfaces. Of course this is almost impossible to do on the tire and wheel, so rubber cement may be a better bet.
being the shade of yellow it is, and the consistency it appears to be; I would say the glue is 3m super weather strip adhesive. common uses include weather stripping, gaskets, rubber on metal anywhere needed.
I may be a little late to the party with this comment. I use the same technique but with a twist. I use an 2" rubber sanding disc mandrel in a cordless drill. Place it centered on the idler shaft and use the drill to spin the idler. Makes it a lot simpler to do the job and keeps your fingers out of the path of the spokes.
KEITH great tip from a old woodturner.
Keith I have a 1942 bandsaw delta Rockwell, wood and metal with the reduction gear, I can't find the lower bearings do you know where to find them. Thanks
Using a heat gun to soften the old glue and rubber can also be handy.
Nice! I just bought an old Powr-Kraft 14" band saw from the 40's or 50's for $40. My tires are a little cracked but not too bad. My problem is I don't know how long of a blade I need. There is one on there now, but it's too long. They jerry-rigged it by adding a block of plywood under the top adjusters....not sure why. But it rubs on the top of the guard. Is there a place to go to find that information?
Thank you for your excellent video. Now I am convinced that I can install new tires on my old Crescent 36" bandsaw by myself with its wheels on it. BTW, I cannot find the contact cement(or corresponding adhesive) in the site you mentioned.
Great video. Thank you! I have an issue I'm hoping you can help me with. I recently bought a powermatic 143 from a friend that used to belong to his dad. The tires were falling apart so I decided to replace them. After reading a bit I decided on urethane tires and they keep coming off. Is it because there's no channel for them to sit in? If so then I'll just buy rubber tires and glue them in but I was hoping these would work. Thank you for any insight you can offer.
great video Keith, I just got a Rikon 10-305 & I want to learn before I burn.
What kind of glue do you use on a bandsaw tire ? Can you use the newer urethane tires ?
Nice video Keith. Im sure someone will benefit from your presentation.
Colin
Slick idea with the rod
Neither of my band saws even have rubber wheels but they both seem to work fine. I don't know that they ever had them either by looking at them. On a metal saw wouldn't chips cut your tires up and embed themselves pretty fast?
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And also a big consideration is the coolant on the rubber, All the saws I have worked on had the crown machined into the wheel and ran no rubber but they were all for metal only.
I looked at the wheels on my old Johnson bandsaw and they are relieved so that they don't touch the tooth section of the blade.
Great tutorial. Solved all my issues . I have an old Hutchinson with flat wheels. I was going to use urethane tires; but I can see the reasoning behind standard rubber and glue, etc.
Be wary about sanding it to try give the glue more grab on the tire, I once had to stick rubber and urethane to various surfaces and I did a whole lot of trials and the more shine on the surface the better they stuck, sanding the surfaces made them come off about 50% easier- failure was caused by little of pieces of the surfaces tearing off the parent material. Do some tests see for yourself
shedasaurus Just following the advise of the manufacturer.
Cool!
I've been working to restore my Grandfather's Craftsman three wheel bandsaw. She's a 1950's vintage with 6 inch wheels. I replaced the tires by following your method. There are three holes in each wheel, making installation easier than I thought. By tying down the tire into two adjacent holes and using a small metal rod, starting at one hole and rotating the rod as I lifted the tire edge onto the track surface, it was fairly easy to mount the tire. This astonished me because I'm not usually that lucky. The other two tires were equally easy. I did rotate the rod between tire and wheel for two orbits along the circumference of each wheel to better seat the tires as you suggested. Now I'm ready to crown the tires. I'm not really quite sure about how much surface I should remove from the tire edges. You mentioned a minimal of one or two degrees, using a stick and sand paper. How many turns per edge would you suggest?
Thanks for your video. Very informative!
Good stuff, Sir!
+Mike Prell Thank you!
Thanks for the informative video!!! I got some great tips I can use on my 16" WT driver line!
THANK YOU...for sharing.
the rubber also provides grip to drive the blade.
+sc928porsche Very true!
thank you keith, I adjusted the guides and I centred the blade, also applied more tension , and it seems to be working better. just one more question at this time, im working with a older blade given to me by the seller, probably dull, how do I know how big a bandsaw blade to buy .
+Paul Shaw The easy way to do it is adjust the top wheel so that it is about half way in the middle of its adjustment and just wrap a piece of string around everything and mark where the end meets the middle of the string. Then stretch out a tape measure and see how long it is. Or, you could do it mathematically - Add the circumference of one wheel to twice the distance between the center of the two wheels and that is the length of blade that you need.
Hi sir goodmorning,I'm in the market for band saw which do you think is better to buy a powermatic 141 or a powermatic 044?thanks
Hey, Keith...great info! Thx! I am working w/ a Maru 16" metal/wood vertical band saw - Model 16 MWM. Cannot find anything on t/ web.
T/ problem is it shakes and is very noisy at times. We thought it needed a new gear box, so, I drained t/ gear oil out - about a cup full came out, but, was very dark...and no metal pieces in it.
Now, I'm thinking it might be a wheel-bearing.?
Also, wondering how much gear oil to put in gear box which is approx. 20" height, 14" width, and 6" depth.? Thx!
My pulley on my blade wheel (not the motor pulley) works itself loose and comes off. I have re-positioned it and tightened the set screw several times, but in a few minutes of using it, it works loose again. Someone suggested I coat the set screw and keyway with JB Weld. What would you do about this problem? Thank you.
Thanks for making this video.
Interesting and insightful.
+John Strange Thanks!
Thanks
Thanks for your great videos! What do you think of taking those wheels over to your machine shop and turning a crown on them so you can use the tires without having to sand a crown in them every time?
I have a 16 inch band saw with cast iron wheels it doesn't have rubber on wheels, the blade runs with teeth overhanging.
It is Makita old model.
Bought it in Saudi Arabia in 1985.
Good running since then, no problems.
I have not been able to find any literature on Internet. Makita is no response.
I wish to know more about it can you help?
In India and far east they almost all have steel wheels with no rubber but I have not been able to get any proper working details about the crowning of the steel wheels, they seem to have no crown.
Can any one help.
Thanks.
Never ever say Keith skimps on glue!
Keith, I'm enjoying your bandsaw tire replacement video. I just bought a Sprunger 10" bandsaw that needs work. Are you familiar with Sprunger tools? Where can I get parts for my saw: manuals, guides, rip fence, miter gauge, etc..
I always enjoy your videos, Keith. They are always a "thumbs up" from me. This one however gets a "thumbs up," for the "3S's" comment that you "made up". And why not!? It works! "Scrape. Sand. Solvent" :)
+rohnerw Thank you - I am glad that you enjoyed the video and enjoy my channel! Always appreciate the thumbs up!
any reason why you did not put glue on first and then the tire, would that not help in putting the tire on easier
+Paul Shaw It just makes for a big mess when you try to put it all together when the glue already in place. Also, the glue has a pretty short working time so would have to be real quick....
Check out your wheels before you spend any time or effort crowning your tires. The wheels on my inexpensive import 14" saw are crowned; and the new urethane tires that I installed last night follow the shape of the wheel perfectly. Incidentally, the urethane is more difficult to stretch than the rubber used in this demo. Once on, I decided to forego using any glue at all.
Would there have been any benefit to checking the roundness or trueness of the wheel on the lathe?
+chuckwin100 What is most important is how round it runs on the saw, which you can check with an indicator on the saw if you like.
My 25' blade on 30" wheels call for 18,000PSI. Can the tires handle the pressure? Would it not bite into the rubber?
Ack, I tried to recrown my bandsaw tires with an angle grinder and a sanding pad and a big piece of rubber came loose from the edge of the tire. Is this likely to happen with a new tire or might this have been because of old tires? I am unsure how old this saw is and when it last had them changed, it is atleast 50-60 years old, I think the tires must have been changed once at least. I would have liked urethane tires so I would not have to crown because I am afraid of ruining a new rubber tire now... But they don't exist for my size saw (24" wheels)
Thanks,
Also, you can use rubber cork I find it smoother and easier to install. The gluing process is easier because you the cork is in length. Contact glue on the wheel and the cork, glue the cork on the wheel and cut at the join at an angle, The cork is more resistant than the rubber. Sanding and adjusting is the same process.
Take a look at this web site un UK
scosarg.com/accessories-spares/bandsaw-accessories DOT html
I am sure those can be found anywhere around the world.
hi thereI just got my first bansaw, a vintage beaver, and I did the set up as beast I could , but I can not cut a straight line. when I follow my line , the blade goes off line. how do I fix this please
+Paul Shaw Sounds like you have issues with the guides on your band saw. You should have a guide above and below the table to keep the blade running straight. If your saw does not have them, you can purchase just guides from multiple places.
hello could you tell me how I know what size my bandsaw is ? 12-14-16in ? thank you, still cant find a 86in bladepaul
+Paul Shaw The size of the band saw is the diameter of the wheels. As for blades, try Custom Band Saw Blades (custombandsawblades.com/). They will make them whatever length you want....
Do you have to glue them?
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Gotcha. I was thinking more along the lines of them slipping, but that wouldn't make much sense. I noticed on Mathias Wandel's homemade bandsaw, he used very curved wheels and bike inner tubes, just put on there. I guess for low use, that would work fine. Also, you ought to take a look at Frank Howarth's J.A. Finney bandsaw. I think it's a 36"er and from sometime in the early 1900s.