I started down this route with my ‘89 150 XP and found out you can actually mount the two pumps directly to the block. They left the threaded holes on the block like the early 80’s non-VRO models. You just have to run two independent pulse hoses. The top port has a plug but can be swapped for a hose barb fitting or tee into bottom. Regardless runs better than VRO!
Thanks for the video for clarification you actually show where the connections go. I’m removing my VRO and doing this tomorrow for my 86. I’m changing the primer bulb just in case. I’ll update if my motor runs better.
Nice video, probably about to do this on a 1987 johnson gt150, attempted to rebuild the vro until i saw that the plastic had split so no choice but to replace it
Nice, i went with the same one you used in the video, i also have to rewire a bunch of stuff that corroded all over the boat, fun stuff@@brianharbaugh1132
@@juniorbarker1570 Great Glad it helped. I just rebuilt a set last week. I dont relace the little freeze plug things. But, I do soak them good and pay special attention to the high speed jet passages. These are the achilles heal. One bit of dirt and they're done. Also , when you re-install the carbs , make sure you loosen the connecting linkage on each and press the carb closed , then re-tighten it. if that linkage lets just a little bit more air in on one of the carbs they run like crapola.
I want to do this conversion to my 95 Evinrude Intruder 175. My concern is it uses a primer solenoid instead of a choke. To me, this swap would delete the primer solenoid and leave me without a choke. Thoughts?
I believe the primer solenoid is a separate system. If you are talking about the black solenoid with the little red lever. You should not have to remove that. it continues to do it's thing.
Well that’s a tough one because I put a new to me 1991 , 90 Hp on the battleaxe. But the first thing I did was throw out the VRO pump and put a conversion on it.
Hey thank you for the the video I plan on doing this conversion on my 88 150xp vro when I get it started I’ve been having trouble with the voltage regulator that sits beneath the flywheel it seems there a hole in the center and I need to replace it I was wondering if this is something that you have had to deal with on this motor or one like it and how hard if at all it would be to do thank you for any help you could bring
I think I have one of those regulators used from my 88 150 Evinrude. It’s at my other house so I can’t photograph it. Maybe next week I’ll go there. Removing the flywheel is the hardest. If you don’t have a puller but I did it without. Loosen the nut and spray PB blaster in there all around the threads and stuff. Then come back the next day with a small block of wood and a hammer. Use the block as a tapping block and work your way around the flywheel. It will come off if your patient. And don’t hit the flywheel with a hammer. It has magnets in it. Let me know if you’re interested in my used regulator. As I recall it is like a square black plastic assembly the mounts directly to the block under the flywheel. Good luck.
@@brianharbaugh1132 I might be interested in it as a new one would be 247 from CDI just a question might sound stupid but that’s what I’m full of but after taking the flywheel off and replacing it with the old one would I need to set the timing again for the motor and if so what tools are necessary for doing so? I’ve been trying to find videos for this engine year and model but they are very few and far between thank you for your response!
@@calebkouth2702 I’m not an expert but I would assume if you don’t move/remove the stator assembly I beleive you will be fine. Just for peace of mind I would mark the flywheel where the timing bug is so you put it back the same.
Quick question. Just bought the boat and disconnected the vro system and it runs fine but every couple minutes the boat is running i have to reach back and prime the fuel myself by squeezing the bulb on my fuel line. Would doing something like this fix that? Or should i wire back up the vro and just keep the oil line off? A response would be very much appreciated. Thank you
If you disconnected the VRO wired connection and the VRO oil line, the fuel pump portion of the VRO should still work. It requires no wires or anything. I would start by replacing the fuel bulb. I recently had one go bad and it would run for 3-4 minutes and die. If that doesn't work I would purchase a VRO conversion. It could be the fuel pump portion of the VRO pump is bad. I recently bought another conversion for a 1991 90 horse and I bought it from Amazon (vendor Carbhub). It was different than the one in this video but is working great. One other thing. I dont know your motor but if its an older evinrude/johnson, the carbs are very finicky with dirt. If dirt gets in the jets they will drop cylinders and all kinds of whacky stuff. I would by the carb kits from someone who still has OEM kits like Crowley Marine. Take Care
@@brianharbaugh1132 im premixing but using a 6 gallon marine tank instead of the boat fuel tank just been trying to figure out why i have to keep priming by hand ill have to try a new fuel pump. All i did was disconnect vro power and alarm then put a vacuum cap where the oil line was
I would replace that fuel bulb first. It’s the easiest and cheapest. I recently had issues with my 150 Yamaha and I replaced all the filters and serviced the VST unit (which was a royal pain in the ass) and in the end it was the stupid fuel bulb.
I did not. But I disabled the system years before I replaced the VRO pump. I only did the conversion because the VRO pump developed a crack on the fuel pump side. I am thinking once you unplug the VRO wire harness the alarm is incapacitated.
Sorry I cannot. Get the model number off your motor and go to Crowley marine and pull up the VR0 drawing. Save the VRO pump number and search VRO conversion and your VRO pump # on Amazon.
I did this 20 years ago to a 140. I just plugged the oil hole and then ore-mixed. Worked fine.
I bought mine on Amazon. Thanks for watching.
I started down this route with my ‘89 150 XP and found out you can actually mount the two pumps directly to the block. They left the threaded holes on the block like the early 80’s non-VRO models. You just have to run two independent pulse hoses. The top port has a plug but can be swapped for a hose barb fitting or tee into bottom. Regardless runs better than VRO!
Thanks for the video for clarification you actually show where the connections go. I’m removing my VRO and doing this tomorrow for my 86. I’m changing the primer bulb just in case. I’ll update if my motor runs better.
Thanks for Watching!
Thank you! Tackling this project soon myself. 🙏🏼🤞🏽
You got this!
Thank you for this video, easy and straight to the point 🤝
Thanks for Watching!
Thank you for making this video, help me a lot
No prob. Thx for watching. Just did it again on a 90 hp , 1991
Nice video, probably about to do this on a 1987 johnson gt150, attempted to rebuild the vro until i saw that the plastic had split so no choice but to replace it
This was the problem I had. Dont waste your time on the pump> I just did my 90 too. The pump I got for that was a Carbman unit. 51 bucks.
Nice, i went with the same one you used in the video, i also have to rewire a bunch of stuff that corroded all over the boat, fun stuff@@brianharbaugh1132
@@brianharbaugh1132 just got it running, this video helped a lot. Now to clean the carbs haha
@@juniorbarker1570 Great Glad it helped. I just rebuilt a set last week. I dont relace the little freeze plug things. But, I do soak them good and pay special attention to the high speed jet passages. These are the achilles heal. One bit of dirt and they're done. Also , when you re-install the carbs , make sure you loosen the connecting linkage on each and press the carb closed , then re-tighten it. if that linkage lets just a little bit more air in on one of the carbs they run like crapola.
Thankyou for the video !!! I need to get a couple of these lots ordered ? Where can I get them from ? Love the kits there neat
Hope it helps!
I want to do this conversion to my 95 Evinrude Intruder 175. My concern is it uses a primer solenoid instead of a choke. To me, this swap would delete the primer solenoid and leave me without a choke. Thoughts?
I believe the primer solenoid is a separate system. If you are talking about the black solenoid with the little red lever. You should not have to remove that. it continues to do it's thing.
Ordering the V660 variation of this for my 87 evinrude V6 175…have you had any issues out of the battle axe since you replaced the pump?
Well that’s a tough one because I put a new to me 1991 , 90 Hp on the battleaxe. But the first thing I did was throw out the VRO pump and put a conversion on it.
Hey thank you for the the video I plan on doing this conversion on my 88 150xp vro when I get it started I’ve been having trouble with the voltage regulator that sits beneath the flywheel it seems there a hole in the center and I need to replace it I was wondering if this is something that you have had to deal with on this motor or one like it and how hard if at all it would be to do thank you for any help you could bring
I think I have one of those regulators used from my 88 150 Evinrude. It’s at my other house so I can’t photograph it. Maybe next week I’ll go there. Removing the flywheel is the hardest. If you don’t have a puller but I did it without. Loosen the nut and spray PB blaster in there all around the threads and stuff. Then come back the next day with a small block of wood and a hammer. Use the block as a tapping block and work your way around the flywheel. It will come off if your patient. And don’t hit the flywheel with a hammer. It has magnets in it.
Let me know if you’re interested in my used regulator. As I recall it is like a square black plastic assembly the mounts directly to the block under the flywheel.
Good luck.
@@brianharbaugh1132 I might be interested in it as a new one would be 247 from CDI just a question might sound stupid but that’s what I’m full of but after taking the flywheel off and replacing it with the old one would I need to set the timing again for the motor and if so what tools are necessary for doing so? I’ve been trying to find videos for this engine year and model but they are very few and far between thank you for your response!
@@calebkouth2702 I’m not an expert but I would assume if you don’t move/remove the stator assembly I beleive you will be fine. Just for peace of mind I would mark the flywheel where the timing bug is so you put it back the same.
What’s the year, make, Hp?
Quick question. Just bought the boat and disconnected the vro system and it runs fine but every couple minutes the boat is running i have to reach back and prime the fuel myself by squeezing the bulb on my fuel line. Would doing something like this fix that? Or should i wire back up the vro and just keep the oil line off? A response would be very much appreciated. Thank you
If you disconnected the VRO wired connection and the VRO oil line, the fuel pump portion of the VRO should still work. It requires no wires or anything.
I would start by replacing the fuel bulb. I recently had one go bad and it would run for 3-4 minutes and die. If that doesn't work I would purchase a VRO conversion. It could be the fuel pump portion of the VRO pump is bad.
I recently bought another conversion for a 1991 90 horse and I bought it from Amazon (vendor Carbhub). It was different than the one in this video but is working great.
One other thing. I dont know your motor but if its an older evinrude/johnson, the carbs are very finicky with dirt. If dirt gets in the jets they will drop cylinders and all kinds of whacky stuff. I would by the carb kits from someone who still has OEM kits like Crowley Marine.
Take Care
Also, This goes without saying but with the VRO unhooked you need to mix oil in your fuel.
@@brianharbaugh1132 im premixing but using a 6 gallon marine tank instead of the boat fuel tank just been trying to figure out why i have to keep priming by hand ill have to try a new fuel pump. All i did was disconnect vro power and alarm then put a vacuum cap where the oil line was
I would replace that fuel bulb first. It’s the easiest and cheapest. I recently had issues with my 150 Yamaha and I replaced all the filters and serviced the VST unit (which was a royal pain in the ass) and in the end it was the stupid fuel bulb.
@@brianharbaugh1132 id try that but it’s a brand new line and bulb
Do you still get alarms ie low oil pressure light
I did not. But I disabled the system years before I replaced the VRO pump. I only did the conversion because the VRO pump developed a crack on the fuel pump side. I am thinking once you unplug the VRO wire harness the alarm is incapacitated.
Can you give the part number
Sorry I cannot. Get the model number off your motor and go to Crowley marine and pull up the VR0 drawing. Save the VRO pump number and search VRO conversion and your VRO pump # on Amazon.
Thank you