I've been fighting all day to take off a rusty partially melted exhaust bolt and this tool been sitting in my tool draw for years. Never used. Def will give it a try tomorrow. Sincere thanks!
Just spray on your favorite penetrating oil and put on a blunted chisel. Let it bang using your best limp waisted style and bingo. Rust flys oil seeps in and soon it is loosened. I saw one of these dislodge a 2” pivot pin on an industrial backhoe once. It was aided by lots of oil and a big rosebud but in the end it was the silly air chisel that did the trick . These things work the best for removing rust flake from frames and rust castings. Same method, limp wrist and let it bounce👍🏻
last year i used the shake and break (it has a handle on the side so you can turn it by hand while the hammer does its thing) to remove the tailgate striker plates on my 1973 f100 . the rusty phillips head bolts , installed 50 years ago , came right out . fantastic accessory for the air hammer .
I bought my air hammer off a SnapOn truck in 1974 and it said Chicago Pneumatic on the side. It come as a kit and abs spring. I have never removed the spring to change bits. Notice the curly end of the spring? Push down on it and change your bits. Who need a quick disconnect? I don’t get it unless your changing bits 60+ times per day! I have never chipped a finger nail changing bits as I have leather gloves. I will use a latex or black rubber gloves if rebuilding an automatic transmission. The oil irritates skin in places where you don’t have 3 rows of calluses and machined sharp knife like edges when going fast against the clock. ASE master tech since 78, retired.
That spring is a form of quick change. Just push the locking bar off to the side and your bit can call out, or just hit the trigger and Yoi will send that bit accros the shopt
I make my own chisels, too, sorta. I keep a set cheapo's (from Harbor Freight) in my toolbox that I consider disposable, then cut, grind, and weld them to do what I want, when I need.
Was replacing suspension on a 30 year old truck. Nut came off the bolt but the bolt was seriously stuck. I ended up using an angle grinder to cut the whole thing out. I sure wish I had one of these. Plus you can use them on concrete, stone, auto body work, busting spot welds. wood carving. you name it. I am shopping for a good one and ran across your video.
Recently used one of these to get a tow hitch off a truck that was rust welded onto the frame. There was no way I could have gotten it off without an air hammer. I use these also to knock bolts out of strut holes, it works great.
I bought an air hammer about 10 years ago and used it once or twice for ball joints & stuff. Then I bought a school bus to convert to a toy hauler RV. Bus bodies are held together with thousands of rivets. I was sure happy to have my air hammer with the curved chisel bit to cut them off and the pointy bit to drive the rest out.
Not just to shake/brake the bolt, but also to separate parts using their own bolt, for example hitting the wheel hub on their inside bolts and it will come right off
The problem is that it doesn't hardly touch the nut or bolt head AT ALL. LOL. Instead, loosen the nut or bolt and use a hammer headed insert to hit either the bolt or knuckle. My Chicago Pneumatic long neck is still the most powerful tool in my box, and it was put into service in 1981.
They certainly do come in handy. I like the sheet metal cutting attachment. Zips through 1/16" aluminum with some cutting oil so it doesn't gall. I also made an attachment once once with a hollow tube on the end. It holds number punches for marking steel.
In aviation the "old man" screw knocker is typically used on Phillips screw heads using a rivet gun. While similar, a rivet gun has a much more precise throttle and doesn't "run away" like the air hammer tends to.
I've got a long barrel air neiko air hammer and every one of those bits.....and many more. It's not something that I use that often, but when you need it, it makes all the difference in the world
I used ruclips.net/user/postUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell
Good video. Do you know if this air hammer can use rivet attachments? I hear you may be able to use it with those attachments (solid rivets) and control the power through the regulator. Thank you.
I like air hammers because I can finally do some sheetmetal work in record time compared to passing out in the heat from banging away with dolly work and a stump.
I used the pin attachment to drive the hinge pins out on my chevy van . They were rusted in solid . Can put a flat face attachment on top of the bleeder valves to shock the rust off .
I'm going to try using mine in combination with a hammer drill, first drilling out a 6" diameter hole with a lot of small holes around the perimeter of a cinderblock, then using the air hammer to punch out the stuff in the middle.
I have cut cars all to pieces with those things in my Rescue Squad/Paramedic days. We used Ajax which were stupid expensive but they were meant to run where you didn't have comptessor etc. I have a midrange Ingersoll at my shop. Much cheaper, does the same job.
Mumblix is right - Look up the operation of an IMPACT wrench. You'll find that they do the exact same thing as an air hammer, but with a twisting motion added!
Here's one use that most don't know about... I'm lucky enough to have a nice 20-ton hydraulic press in my DIY garage. It gets used constantly. In addition, I have the SWAG Off Road press brake and I'm always making brackets and such for automotive fixes and other welding projects. Anywho, when attempting to press out a stubborn part, put enough tension on the part/press and hit the assembly with the air hammer. You'd be amazed at the number of times things then just fall apart like they should with a little rattle tap of vibration. And if going nuclear is required, heat the assembly up. Then, hit it with the air hammer. Oxy-acetylene is perfect for this. But, even a couple of Harbor Freight electric heat guns on the part will motivate stuck rather than corroded parts to get moving.
i know about the shake and break but they are expensive however there are alternatives in the uk called "air impact driver" but i cant seem to find one that takes sockets they only take hex bits. could use an adaptor but that lessens the effect the hammer has.
I was just thinking about using an Air hammer lol i forgot i had one i actually have a air hammer set that use to be my Dad's RIP never was allowed to use it since i always lost and broke some of his tools anyhow its been under my bed for years and i have a broken wheel stud on my lifted truck with 33x12.50R22 once examining it i found out that half the lug nut broke off along with part of wheel stud they are them anti theft lug nuts that come with a special socket only way now to get it off is from the rear head of wheel stud went through 2 $40 steel cutting carbide blades for my multi tool its almost half way cut off but i had to start it manually with a chisel and small sledge hammer been lots of work and time consuming today i thought about buying an Air chisel then realized i have one a good set that use to be dads is mine now i said heck yeah im going look on youtube really quick someone should have proof this will work and then your video confirmed it. Gonna Go Show this F#€KiNG wheel stud whats up
You should have just hit the stud with a large hammer, it would have popped right out. For re-installation, they make a special bearing tool and your local parts store has one for sale.
Most air tools like this want 90, but the check the specifications on whatever you're looking at to know for sure. Beyond that the psi is only good til your tank runs empty, then you'll have to wait for it to fill back up to maintain that psi during continuous, so CFM spec is also important if you plan to use it continuously. For occasional bursts of hammering at home you can get away with a smaller tank with lower CFM. Some also recommend 3/8 hoses with high flow connectors.
Harbor freight doesn’t sell that socket attachment i’ll find a link and put it in the description. There’s the name brand shake and break, or other companies that make something similar. They sell them in three eights and half-inch.
Are usually run them at about 80 psi if I get impatient I’ve turned it up a bit more. It’s got a regulator on the handle so if the tool starts bouncing off or going out of control you can take it down some. Hope this answers your question
@@F.U.andS.T.F.U 2hp real, 5hp modern rating. Even a pancake compressor is a good start. It becomes an excellent portable air tank setup for the future.
Through the years I’ve had big compressors I’ve had small ones, You just need to let the compressor top off and then run your tool for a little bit and then let it top off again. If you have a big compressor you don’t have to do that as much.I have broken off some of the hardest bolts with a small pancake from harbor freight compressor. I had a 2 hp 20 gallon tank for years, it’s still possible to get this in the car and transport it to where you need it yet big enough to barely sandblast something. One thing that people don’t think about with the compressor is they are noisy and they turn on when you’re not expecting them to. If you’re grinding some thing and the compressor kicks on it makes you jump, this could be dangerous. Are used to have a 80 gallon 5 hp two stage with an extra tank this is eally big and you absolutely can’t move it and it’s 220 V so you can see this is a difficult question to answer. There’s no right answers there’s only trade-offs. I hope this helps answer your question. If I could only have one compressor I like the 3 hp 20 gallon because it’s just barely big enough to do everything but still portable, Sandblasting is the largest challenge with any compressors
@@jordankrupp6582 all I did was unscrew the front housing to expose the hammer pin and I tig welded the largest cold chisel that would fit and it’s been a life saver. It can be a bit of a pain cuz you have to have the housing slid up on the chisel while you weld it and then thread it back on but other than that there’s nothing to it
@@CheetahBigKitty I figured out that the barrel wasn't fully screwed in to the body! Once it was tight, it worked. It still works loose, but now I know. What can one expect for $12!!??
You didn't even mention hydraulic lines, Use a flat bit on the corner of a hydraulic hose connection that is stuck on and you can get them to start moving fairly easily. FAIR WARNING: I have also used one to get a oil filter that would not come off to loosen up but do this with caution as if you hit the engine you might be causing a far bitter problem. This was after having 4 other techs try all kinds of things and an air hammer was able to get it moving. I only did this cause I had a good angle that was away from the engine.
I've been fighting all day to take off a rusty partially melted exhaust bolt and this tool been sitting in my tool draw for years. Never used. Def will give it a try tomorrow. Sincere thanks!
How did that work our for you
@@Naismith624he must still be hammering 😆
@@oxygen454😂😂
@@chevyboi0898this shid got my dying 😂
Just spray on your favorite penetrating oil and put on a blunted chisel. Let it bang using your best limp waisted style and bingo. Rust flys oil seeps in and soon it is loosened. I saw one of these dislodge a 2” pivot pin on an industrial backhoe once. It was aided by lots of oil and a big rosebud but in the end it was the silly air chisel that did the trick . These things work the best for removing rust flake from frames and rust castings. Same method, limp wrist and let it bounce👍🏻
last year i used the shake and break (it has a handle on the side so you can turn it by hand while the hammer does its thing) to remove the tailgate striker plates on my 1973 f100 . the rusty phillips head bolts , installed 50 years ago , came right out . fantastic accessory for the air hammer .
I bought my air hammer off a SnapOn truck in 1974 and it said Chicago Pneumatic on the side. It come as a kit and abs spring. I have never removed the spring to change bits. Notice the curly end of the spring? Push down on it and change your bits. Who need a quick disconnect? I don’t get it unless your changing bits 60+ times per day!
I have never chipped a finger nail changing bits as I have leather gloves. I will use a latex or black rubber gloves if rebuilding an automatic transmission. The oil irritates skin in places where you don’t have 3 rows of calluses and machined sharp knife like edges when going fast against the clock.
ASE master tech since 78, retired.
I never remove the spring either,
this never occurred to me.
That spring is a form of quick change. Just push the locking bar off to the side and your bit can call out, or just hit the trigger and Yoi will send that bit accros the shopt
I make my own chisels, too, sorta. I keep a set cheapo's (from Harbor Freight) in my toolbox that I consider disposable, then cut, grind, and weld them to do what I want, when I need.
this is my absolute favorite informative video I literally don't want it to end.
Was replacing suspension on a 30 year old truck. Nut came off the bolt but the bolt was seriously stuck. I ended up using an angle grinder to cut the whole thing out. I sure wish I had one of these. Plus you can use them on concrete, stone, auto body work, busting spot welds. wood carving. you name it. I am shopping for a good one and ran across your video.
Recently used one of these to get a tow hitch off a truck that was rust welded onto the frame. There was no way I could have gotten it off without an air hammer. I use these also to knock bolts out of strut holes, it works great.
I bought an air hammer about 10 years ago and used it once or twice for ball joints & stuff. Then I bought a school bus to convert to a toy hauler RV. Bus bodies are held together with thousands of rivets. I was sure happy to have my air hammer with the curved chisel bit to cut them off and the pointy bit to drive the rest out.
that socket attachment is badass
Not just to shake/brake the bolt, but also to separate parts using their own bolt, for example hitting the wheel hub on their inside bolts and it will come right off
The problem is that it doesn't hardly touch the nut or bolt head AT ALL. LOL. Instead, loosen the nut or bolt and use a hammer headed insert to hit either the bolt or knuckle. My Chicago Pneumatic long neck is still the most powerful tool in my box, and it was put into service in 1981.
I feel like you just saved me hundreds of hours of future work.
True that man! I honestly didn't know it can do all that... Super cool!
They certainly do come in handy. I like the sheet metal cutting attachment. Zips through 1/16" aluminum with some cutting oil so it doesn't gall. I also made an attachment once once with a hollow tube on the end. It holds number punches for marking steel.
Wow. The "shake and break"! This will save me hours of heating with a torch.. Thanks🍻
I have a lot of different attachments for my chisel and have made a few of my own. Use two different styles almost daily in the truck shop i work in.
I never learned so much about car repair in two minutes... this video is astounding.
In aviation the "old man" screw knocker is typically used on Phillips screw heads using a rivet gun. While similar, a rivet gun has a much more precise throttle and doesn't "run away" like the air hammer tends to.
That's exactly what we at work use it for. To knock the paint off. And get a better bite
@@selindagarcia 0
I've got a long barrel air neiko air hammer and every one of those bits.....and many more. It's not something that I use that often, but when you need it, it makes all the difference in the world
starting out as a truck technician, i can't tell you how much I use this tool. Everyday
I used ruclips.net/user/postUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell
Thanks for the video I purchase my very first one and watching you gave me more insight God bless you.Ken
Good video. Do you know if this air hammer can use rivet attachments? I hear you may be able to use it with those attachments (solid rivets) and control the power through the regulator. Thank you.
I like air hammers because I can finally do some sheetmetal work in record time compared to passing out in the heat from banging away with dolly work and a stump.
I've been using it to take u joints out for over 25 years ( truck mechanic) I have totally wore out 12 air chisels over 30 years plus.
Need to get that socket attachment!!!
thank you Error Code Guy. I just bought my first air hammer and appreciate the additional use ideas.
That medium barrel hammer from Harbor Freight is very strong for the price, definitely a good choice for your first one.
I have this exact hammer and it sure came in handy for removing the ends of my cv axles when I rebuilt them.
This is such a good video! Clear, concise, no fat, no bullshit. Fuckin right!
The video is great. But the voiced over voice over was excellent. Love it
Have you seen the Texas twister? It's an air hammer attachment.
I’ve seen that shake and break attachment, but I’m so torn on it. Does it really work that well? I don’t know anyone personally that has it.
I'm surprised you didn't mention the pulling attachment.
I used the pin attachment to drive the hinge pins out on my chevy van . They were rusted in solid . Can put a flat face attachment on top of the bleeder valves to shock the rust off .
I'm going to try using mine in combination with a hammer drill, first drilling out a 6" diameter hole with a lot of small holes around the perimeter of a cinderblock, then using the air hammer to punch out the stuff in the middle.
I have cut cars all to pieces with those things in my Rescue Squad/Paramedic days. We used Ajax which were stupid expensive but they were meant to run where you didn't have comptessor etc. I have a midrange Ingersoll at my shop. Much cheaper, does the same job.
Thanks! Great video!
For stuck bolts...if I can fit an air chisel in there, I can fit an impact wrench.
For a really rusted bolt it can break the rust loose and reduce the likelihood of breaking the bolt off.
Especially valuable on exhaust manifold bolts
Mumblix is right - Look up the operation of an IMPACT wrench. You'll find that they do the exact same thing as an air hammer, but with a twisting motion added!
the way he cuts himself reminds me of the rick and morty commercials 😂
You can use the socket adapter with a deep well socket to drive in 8 ft grounding rods in a minute.
Here's one use that most don't know about...
I'm lucky enough to have a nice 20-ton hydraulic press in my DIY garage. It gets used constantly. In addition, I have the SWAG Off Road press brake and I'm always making brackets and such for automotive fixes and other welding projects.
Anywho, when attempting to press out a stubborn part, put enough tension on the part/press and hit the assembly with the air hammer. You'd be amazed at the number of times things then just fall apart like they should with a little rattle tap of vibration.
And if going nuclear is required, heat the assembly up. Then, hit it with the air hammer. Oxy-acetylene is perfect for this. But, even a couple of Harbor Freight electric heat guns on the part will motivate stuck rather than corroded parts to get moving.
You don't have to remove the spring every time you change the bit, that being said the quick change holder is less of a pain in the ass
When I was in the service I was an airframe mechanic and a rivet gun is basically an air hammer.
Sheet metal cutter bit. Cuts cleaner than it sounds.
You don’t have to unscrew the spring you just spend it sideways and the bit will come out
i know about the shake and break but they are expensive however there are alternatives in the uk called "air impact driver" but i cant seem to find one that takes sockets they only take hex bits. could use an adaptor but that lessens the effect the hammer has.
You mean like an impact wrench?
I was just thinking about using an Air hammer lol i forgot i had one i actually have a air hammer set that use to be my Dad's RIP never was allowed to use it since i always lost and broke some of his tools anyhow its been under my bed for years and i have a broken wheel stud on my lifted truck with 33x12.50R22 once examining it i found out that half the lug nut broke off along with part of wheel stud they are them anti theft lug nuts that come with a special socket only way now to get it off is from the rear head of wheel stud went through 2 $40 steel cutting carbide blades for my multi tool its almost half way cut off but i had to start it manually with a chisel and small sledge hammer been lots of work and time consuming today i thought about buying an Air chisel then realized i have one a good set that use to be dads is mine now i said heck yeah im going look on youtube really quick someone should have proof this will work and then your video confirmed it. Gonna Go Show this F#€KiNG wheel stud whats up
You should have just hit the stud with a large hammer, it would have popped right out. For re-installation, they make a special bearing tool and your local parts store has one for sale.
How hard does this hit?
Removing and installing door hinge pins!!!
Does anyone know if there's a battery powered version of this kind of tool?
Got the wife one for Christmas she loves it
About to use this to remove a seized axle tomorrow.
Mines failed in approximately 6 minutes. New unit but doesnt work anymore.
Under rated tool
And....how to reduce the noise when using tis tools???
With a title like that i was expecting the sound of and seeing air chisel in action
15 bush roughly at supercheap 👍 mine's removed a few of those stubborn blade bosses off a few old mowers but I definitely need more attachments.
How many PSI compressor would you say is minimum required?
Most air tools like this want 90, but the check the specifications on whatever you're looking at to know for sure. Beyond that the psi is only good til your tank runs empty, then you'll have to wait for it to fill back up to maintain that psi during continuous, so CFM spec is also important if you plan to use it continuously. For occasional bursts of hammering at home you can get away with a smaller tank with lower CFM. Some also recommend 3/8 hoses with high flow connectors.
I bought a cheap needle scaler attachment for mine
Very good vid!
what about rivets???
Very informative
Never seen anyone unscrew the spring retainer to change bits. That’s a new one 🤣
You don't take the spring off to change bits.
Folksy voice is cool AF.
You dont need to unscrew the spring, just push it out the way
Thank you
Socket attachment never seen before. HF sells?
Harbor freight doesn’t sell that socket attachment i’ll find a link and put it in the description. There’s the name brand shake and break, or other companies that make something similar. They sell them in three eights and half-inch.
@@errorcodeguy456 thanks
Thank you Sir ✊👍
Gosh, it feels like I'm being lathered in his smooth voice.
How seductive.
Cool now I know i thought the exhaust hammer was a spot weld opener lol
How much air pressure is needed for these?
Are usually run them at about 80 psi if I get impatient I’ve turned it up a bit more. It’s got a regulator on the handle so if the tool starts bouncing off or going out of control you can take it down some. Hope this answers your question
@@errorcodeguy456Awsome yep, I'm in the process of buying an air compressor, what's a good size for this and other auto equipment?
@@F.U.andS.T.F.U 2hp real, 5hp modern rating. Even a pancake compressor is a good start. It becomes an excellent portable air tank setup for the future.
Through the years I’ve had big compressors I’ve had small ones, You just need to let the compressor top off and then run your tool for a little bit and then let it top off again. If you have a big compressor you don’t have to do that as much.I have broken off some of the hardest bolts with a small pancake from harbor freight compressor. I had a 2 hp 20 gallon tank for years, it’s still possible to get this in the car and transport it to where you need it yet big enough to barely sandblast something. One thing that people don’t think about with the compressor is they are noisy and they turn on when you’re not expecting them to. If you’re grinding some thing and the compressor kicks on it makes you jump, this could be dangerous. Are used to have a 80 gallon 5 hp two stage with an extra tank this is eally big and you absolutely can’t move it and it’s 220 V so you can see this is a difficult question to answer. There’s no right answers there’s only trade-offs. I hope this helps answer your question. If I could only have one compressor I like the 3 hp 20 gallon because it’s just barely big enough to do everything but still portable, Sandblasting is the largest challenge with any compressors
@@errorcodeguy456 Ditto
Does that central match I up to the name brands
I modified a pneumatic palm nailer to get into tighter spots 👌🏼
How did you modify your palm nailer? I’m in the same boat. Palm Nailer is my last hope before I start cutting shit out
@@jordankrupp6582 all I did was unscrew the front housing to expose the hammer pin and I tig welded the largest cold chisel that would fit and it’s been a life saver. It can be a bit of a pain cuz you have to have the housing slid up on the chisel while you weld it and then thread it back on but other than that there’s nothing to it
Thanks.👍
Used when you can t strike object with a sledgehammer.
I have to clean four inches of cured mortar from inside a mortar mixer tomorrow, wish me luck
PICKLE fork.
Skip that hobo freight one find Ingersoll Rand you'll thank me later it's not that much more! Keep an oiler on it too!
You can launch old ball joints out in seconds with an air hammer rather than using a press
How did you get your HF hammer to work?? Mine doesn't do crap. I can put it on the work and it will stop shaking. Thanks
Adjust the air intake valve.
@@CheetahBigKitty I figured out that the barrel wasn't fully screwed in to the body! Once it was tight, it worked. It still works loose, but now I know. What can one expect for $12!!??
You didn't even mention hydraulic lines, Use a flat bit on the corner of a hydraulic hose connection that is stuck on and you can get them to start moving fairly easily.
FAIR WARNING: I have also used one to get a oil filter that would not come off to loosen up but do this with caution as if you hit the engine you might be causing a far bitter problem. This was after having 4 other techs try all kinds of things and an air hammer was able to get it moving. I only did this cause I had a good angle that was away from the engine.
I use it to get rusted on brake rotors off the hub. Beats it into submission.
Just a man in the garage Strokin his air hammer… nothing to see here 😂
thats not how you use the spring. you just push the tab over to install the tool.
My $50 amazon is just good enough for pro use, not comfortable but hits
Wow !!!
Also great to give your wife some company
She’s busy making sandwiches
Great for peening welds and removing slag as well
Bet it sure as heck doesn’t hammer air.
Use ear protection!!!!!!
👍(SUB’d)
Pointless video!
After all that, we didn't see the tool really working at all.
I’m sold on it !
I started with Woodprix plans.