Second Autobot lamp with RADAR sensor.
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- Опубликовано: 25 ноя 2024
- It was only after I got the first Autobot "deformable" lamp that I discovered there was a version with a microwave doppler detector built in. Obviously I had to get one, and it's got a very different internal arrangement. It's not just the addition of a detector.
The "LED" on the detector is actually a light sensor which is shielded from light inside the case.
The sensor chip does appear to be a PIR chip, but didn't yield much data in a quick search.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...
This also keeps the channel independent of RUclips's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Truly robots in disguise.
(which proved to be their downfall because Clive took them to bits)
dirty usb power into recording device? I got a cheapiecharger that locks my phone up if i try to use it while plugged into just that charger, others r fine
throw it away as far as you can and buy a proper one :D
It's quite hilarious how they've made those to look like the Autobot logo, but it's just china flouting international copyright laws as usual... :P
And unreliable software is why I used a camcorder, even if it's a base model, for my video making, phones are okay as a stopgap or for a "camera 2", but you can't beat the proper kit for doing the job... :)
I love it when Clive takes on something. He has no problems with tearing into something to see how it works.
Phrases that Clive uses that sound dirty but are not:
Spudger
Stick it in there
buck regulator
Bridge rectifier
POUND LAND
Fun fact, #4 is sometimes referred to as a "bridged rectum fryer," at least in certain chillier parts of North America.
Ya dirty fecker!
@@floobertuber keep your rectifier in a vise
If I do this will it go bang?
Clive never says anything that sounds dirty
ruclips.net/video/FiRqJ40a1Ak/видео.html
Coming from a world of concurrent engineering (or whatever we call it these days), where everything is well integrated - it is amazing that this kind of "engineering" works at all. A bunch of off the shelf parts improvised into an existing enclosure. How could a Phillips or Cree ever expect to compete with this kind of thing on price? I guess you have to hope that people can recognize the value of quality engineering.
_Messy Manufacturing Moments_
I love the alliteration
Hey!!!! Where are the schematics?? We need to know if its A FULL bridge rectifier or just a single puny diod! 😂
FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER!
7:50 - The sound of a RUclipsr dying inside because of technology malfunctioning... Good recovery though! XD
It's all good practice for if I ever do live TV.
Is that where the reject Spacex grid fins are being used? The relay might be switching only 72 Volts or so. Just a thought. Thanks BC
13:40 I'm glad I'm not the only one who gets a fright when the device under test does something unexpected when I'm gingerly trying to take a measurement without getting shocked
Couple weeks ago I was probing a RF transmitter to look for a voltage drain, just as I carefully touch the meter probe to the board my weather alarm goes off for a storm approaching...nearly died from the fright
@@matthewmiller6068 That's hilarious! Speaking of which, I've never understood how people have the uncanny ability to slam car doors, honk horns, or make other loud noises *right* as you are doing something potentially hazardous, like taking a risky measurement or testing a suspect device that might go bang. Their timing is so often impeccable!
Thanks for another fabulous video Big Clive. I'm not sure about anyone else but personally I have never minded the bits where you're taking screws out or anything for that matter.
I'm not exactly sure why but yours is one of the few channels where I can watch and listen to you taking things to bits for extended lengths of time. There's something soothing about it. We're pretty close to the same age (I have a few years on you) but as a kid, I used to hang out in our basement with my dad while he created circuits, talked about them and answered endless questions.
Maybe it reminds me of that. Not sure.
The gauge of those wires look questionable. Are they silicone insulated, they look rubbery.
Why? There's little current flowing in them?
7:33 I think I produced a bit of my own thermal paste.
Thermal Interface Material covers all options.
Ahh, you mean “white gunk”...😁
@@Mark1024MAK just call it Android sperm
I like it when they watch your reporting videos and modify the unit to make you happier. I'm liking the radar sensor in that unit. Next they need to make a solar power unit? I'll have to try and make one like your PIR/Radar light switch, I was impressed with that. Glad the phone recorded and didn't leave you waffling er instructively reporting to the ether.
'In cinemas this week, Thermal Paste, if you can't handle the heat get out of the light.'
In your best gruff voiceover style.
john morgan 😂😂😂😂
3X the noise on Amateur radio and CB radio frequencies... I'd love to see an analyzer on this.
Can you show us some of noise in effect? Not in this light specifically
If you think electric led lights mess up your radio frequencies.. just wait.. motor manufacturers are wanting to use inductive plates to recharge electric car batteries! They will be out putting kilowatts of RF under cars with an approximate 6" gap (150mm in new money)
Besides the roasted cat likelihood they will knock out not only amateur radio but all DAB radios and likely most 4 or 5g wifi!
I keep mentioning this when inductive charging is being promoted but no one is listening.
If you are part of the amateur radio group you need to organise and ensure the Government departments that deal with Radio Frequencies get involved.
In France they are proposing (they have test strips in roads) putting inductive charging plates all over the place in KM long strips to recharge cars on the move!
I cannot see this is ever going to be efficient, the losses will be colossal!
The radar module only transmits a very very very narrowband signal (a pure sinewave) somewhere in the multi-gHz band (usually 2.4G/5.8G/10G/24G) with only a few millliwatts of power so they're not going to generate much interference. I would rather be concerned about the switching power supplies.
@@williamarmstrong7199 The plates would likely run at 50hz. I would be more worried about the power used by plates that are not occupied by a compatible vehicle, and losses due to inefficiency.
Alex Jamieson Consider the effect of an unpowered iron/steel vehicle placed in a high power inductive field. I don't think it'll like the inductive heating. Examples of such vehicles include any kind of trailer pulled by an electric (or other) vehicle, as well as anything relying on plug in charging or liquefied energy (H2, Ethanol, organic oil, liquid batteries, any other such tech).
The pictures on the box show someone wearing gloves to adjust the lights, I'm assuming it is because it gets hot but it is Chinese so probably not. The hand model was probably tired of getting shocked.
10:25 - I think the only difference between thermal paste and heatsink compound is their intended uses and target market which could be the reason for the between the two things being... well a thing.
LOVED the old movement sensors on lights...
you have 2-3 adjustments..
Sensitivity.
Duration.
Time on..
and you really dont see them anymore unless you go for the High quality ones..that cost Allot.
"Thermal dissipating sludge crap that sticks to everything but where its supposed to paste".. that's a better name lol :-)
Interesting lamp, good video Clive. Your commentary is awesome. Keep up the great video's.
The 3 metal frames remind me of the grid fins for controlling the descent of the Falcon 9 reusable boosters.
Sometimes life just calls for a massive bang.
With lots and lots of thermal paste.
Nice to see that the current is not that much, so they do drive the LEDs not that hard. 100mA into a High Intensety LED is just nice to have a reasonable lifespan.
woo radio voice! Those have the same lamp modules I purchased for my RV, 12v with a bayonet plug added to the wires.
I would say thermal compound or heat sink compound -- thermal paste would be the stuff that is bonding glue with heat conducive properties for small heat sinks that have no mechanical clamp to hold them on the chip.
As for adjusting the lamp, wear insulating gloves while adjusting it, just an idea. Follow up question, You said a few times that the Doppler switch unit had a good power factor, but when the lamps are off (only the doppler unit using power), the factor drops from high .9 to low .4, doesn't that mean that the doppler unit power factor is bad not good?
I've watched a bunch of John Ward's uploads about switching contacts. I've seen the failure of the wrong switch in a circuit first hand, and have taken apart several relays and switches. A lot of the domestic stuff here in the USA seems to have specific (small separation) AC or (large separation) DC type contacts. However, of the dozen or so cheap Chinese switches and relays I've taken apart, all of them had large switching mechanisms with a wide separation. I started taking a bunch of them apart after going out of my way to source DC rated (cheap Chinese...//yeah I know) switches for a couple personal projects. One "DC rated" order came with different color rocker switches. Half of them only had DC rated markings and half only had an AC marking. After disassembling them, they all had the same internals.
*Don't take this the wrong way. I'm not stating or implying that all contacts are the same or that Chinese relay/switch contacts are universal.*
I'm just curious if others have noticed these types of contacts as well. Maybe I don't understand the subject well. Isn't the AC vs DC switch rating/contact issue a one way problem? If the subject is limited to just the switch contact, and it's separation point, a switch contact rated for DC should work for AC as the gap is wider. I don't think this works the other way around as the DC arc needs the wide and quick separation to be extinguished. I don't see how a wider and quicker separation of the contacts is a negative attribute for AC. Does this mean the only issue with a DC rated switch used with AC would be the generally higher voltage jumping ability of a larger AC voltage as it relates to the electrical insulation of the device as a whole? Shouldn't this be a (likely) mute point as the insulation for a DC current should also account for the larger heating potential of a DC current and require a more robust housing design?
Of course this doesn't really have any relevance to a 125v relay on 240v, but it got my mind on the subject for whatever reason... it's early and the coffee is weak...and I'll probably wake up and delete this in regret of rambling
It seems like the wild east likes to make things a little more robust than the label in many cases, while our western, more domestic markets prefer to build as cheaply as possible and label accordingly.
Upcycle Electronics Please be aware that the rating of contacts also depend on the exact material of the mating points, the force and speed of contact movement, the ability of the housing to handle splattered metal from the contact points and of cause insulation, wire thickness etc. Certain switch mechanisms also include arc extinguishing features like the ones in overload breakers.
I ordered the non-sensor one of these, arrived today and it also has the sticker over the transformers logo, 3x transformers and small vent holes top and bottom of the unit (like this one)
Hey Clive, why don't you call it Thermal Grease?? 😉
(I go by heat sink compound too)
pasty compounded thermal grease for heat-sinks
Perpaps you should place the LENOVO logo in the corner of the screen as an advert for the phone.
They they could compensate you for taking it down. Big bux.
They could make you pay even for that.
BC, you should do a test of heat sink compounds. I would not ever use the white silicone paste in any computer or situation where heat dissipation were important.
Do those three grid fins give it as much stability on re-entry as the four fins SpaceX use?
Of course...
...I still love you.
I just checked by landing the light on a drone-ship. But it fell over and exploded.
Would not Hopi flicker, if you had filmed it in PAL(25fps)?
when that happens to my phones there is a connector that needs reflowing, in my case there is a connector on the motherboard that plugs into kind of a breakout board where everything connects, that connector tends to get broken solder. the digitiser is one of those things that if there is an intermittent connection it goes dead till reset
Clive has more gadgets than Batman, or maybe he is Batman? We may never know..
All I have to say is I've never seen Clive and Batman in the same room.
Clive's more of a Cat Woman!🤣
That Servisol heat sink compound is not a paste. It's about the same viscosity as tatty water.
@@johncoops6897 tattys are UK slang for potatos
John Coops the slang (regional) tatties for potatoes is pronounced like batties in the UK. Not the same as the Aussie “tay-toes” pronunciation that probably has a different spelling. Potato water is in reference to the thicker starchy cloudy water you often have left over after you have boiled potatoes. Hope that helps.
@@markparker5585 Aye, it's a euphejism.
BigClive..Can we "see" Doppler sensors....No? then how?
"pause for a moment" - you never need to, even the disappearing to find screwdrivers and attempting to unscrew is worth watching, remember for a lot of us watching can be quite cathartic!
I second the possibility of there being a dirty USB power supply running your phone, I've crashed my phone since it froze from a noisy USB supply and it automatically rebooted itself. Try a TCL A502DL with Open Camera. You will be pleased.
Now I'm curious about the voltage rating of the capacitors in that little power supply. I've seen them underrated too. If close it won't go bang right away but will fail early.
Hi Clive. I guess you’re in the middle of the TT right now. Enjoy!
I just bought the clamp meter, it seems the E variant as shown has slightly tighter specs and the most expensive compared to the A variant which is half price.
If it's the Uni-T meter it measures DC current with the clamp, which is quite special.
@@bigclivedotcom I bought the exact brand and model. I have a couple of multimeters but no clamp meters.
Clive, if you were to buy small electric screwdriver (they are great as one gets older) you could review it as well? great videos.mate
I have heard good things about the Xiaomi Wowstick (despite it's provocative name, it's not a sex toy lol)
I've started looking for Chinese suppliers who offer Speedpak. It's amazingly fast, I think they must use air freight instead of the usual container shipping.
Why do these style lights exist, was it a transformers tie in, was someonw just bored?
They exist purely because people are buying them.
@@xenonram that is a logical fallacy
@@johncoops6897 that's like saying the chicken came before the egg, the question posited was to ascertain if there was a reason for this specific design or not, you don't always see movie tie in lights, I've not yet seen sponge Bob light bulbs and chicken run standard lamps.
Ventilation holes, or spider holes?
Tiny, so probably low risk of insect ingress.
Holes for the smoke to come out
Clive you are sounding so much like Captain Crimson, all in the best possible taste.
I wanted to use this in my office but want to convert it to indirect light. Do you think I could flip the "wings" around so they would aim up at the ceiling?
Was the sensor under the sticker? How does it even work from there?
"Thermal Paste" is the new "Full Bridge Rectifier". ;)
FULL
BRIDGE
RECTIFIER
Huh, I was looking to buy one of these for my garage. Go figure!
Could you screw this v2 version in to a standard ceiling fan light socket and use the air from the fan blades blowing down to cool the heatsinks on the LED's?
What's with the Transformers Autobot logo on an industrial looking light unit?
...it's china?
It's amusing how the eBay description shows it illuminating a supermarket, warehouse, factory, parking garage and a sports arena. Whatever happened to truth in advertising?
Truth doesn't sell as much as lies
Neon indicator screwdriver? Oh clive...
You mean the bonus pry-bar that comes with every set of insulated screwdrivers? ;)
Phonotical Very useful with proper training and proper internal resistor. Dangerous only in the hands of people that shouldn't work on mains anyway.
If I wanted to power the leds from this unit, what type of power supply could i use?
Why on earth dont you buy a proper video camera, like a Panasonic with a remote app on your phone so you can view what's being recorded at all times and zoom and focus at your fingertip.
...... did you try turning it off and on again............. and then bash it with a BFH?
What do you mean by charging by apparent power? Charge for power that's not actually getting used? That seems scammy to me. But what can I expect from utility companies..
247 volt from ac network ? Like australia... 231 volt In central europe at this time. Little bit too high right?
Also Clive is an island dweller and the voltage there tends to be higher than the nominal UK 240V due to generating most of its own power.
I ordered one. is it possible to change the on time? Hey BC, schematics?
Is the power factor leading or lagging?
I would just use it without the clear panels over the LEDs. Better cooling and more light output for the win. At least when used in places where people are not going to poke their meaty bits in there.
You would never be able to detect an increase in visible light intensity just from removing those clear plastic covers. Not only that, there are not any places that the light would be usable, that wouldn't also be a hazard.
@@johncoops6897 Just normal screws without the plastic in between would do. Maybe nylon washers if you use the original ones.
@@johncoops6897 Well hence the nylon washers and the "when used in places where people are not going to poke their meaty bits in there" bit originally...
3 separate supplies allows piece-use and is probably a LOT more reliable
Is there a way to modify the detection/timer module to allow for adjusting the on time of the light? I'm just wondering if it's as simple as putting in a variable resistor for a 555 timer or something.
It should be viable to swap the timing capacitor on the detection chip. Easier with a better documented chip.
When the screen freezes up and doesn't respond, does the volume button still work as a shutter/record button? In OpenCamera that might not be enabled by default.
There is that option. I'll probably enable it for the rare times it happens.
I'm curious about something: Does a Class Y capacitor limit leakage current enough that it won't trip the Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor (or whatever the UK term is for it)?
The class Y capacitors are usually a really low value like 1nF, so they don't create much leakage. Typically around 100uA (one tenth of a milliamp).
have you thought about getting an S8+ or an S9+? big screen, loads of room, and very nice camera settings.
You could call it "thermally conductive paste compound" or tcpc goop
The doppler module actually looks like the kind they sell advertised for use with arduino.
there's no adjustment pot for the radar detection timeout, is there a resistor to be replaceable with a different value ?
There's probably a resistor or capacitor that could be changed to modify the delay.
Hey, Clive, I am in need of a current clamp and see this video is perfect timing! What can ya tell me about the one you used here? Is it the UT210E model? What do you think of it? Love your videos, keep um coming. Cheers!
I like the UT210E. It's a versatile little meter. Does initially take getting used to the need to zero out the DC current reading relative to orientation and objects. (It senses ambient magnetic fields.)
@@bigclivedotcom Thank you... An Amazon click and mine is on the way.
Will these work at 120v? Some on ebay showed 170v-265v, but others showed as little as 85v-265v... They appear to be the same light fixture...
Seth The internal modules may be for either range with same outer casing. 85 to 265 V is a common rating for universal mains PSU modules.
Clive man you should get your hands on a Gekken ex-150
I'm amused you bang on about the switching supply in the radar sensor and how it has such a good power factor when its power factor was like 0.42. It's the other (LED) supplies that had the good power factor.
I'm pretty sure that when the main load was on the lamp drivers had a good power factor. It was much less critical with the ultra low standby current of the sensor.
How much does that thing weigh?!?
do you work the TT race and do you like it as a resident or is an annoyance
I like the buzz it creates.
I can't remember if I've ever asked this of you before, but if you get a situation where the video gets corrupted, is there any way you could send me the corrupted video file? I basically want to see if there's any way I could fix the file. This is a problem that happens to a lot of RUclipsrs, and I want to see if I can help, just for experimentation.
My guess is that because the file doesn't get closed properly it can't be read.
Bigclivedotcom
I don't remember the other one flashing.
Where does one get the cheapest Potassium Permanganate on eBay?
Just search for it and select lowest price including shipping to narrow it down. It depends on where you are in the world.
You could have carried on for the remaining 10 minutes Clive, we wouldn't have minded.
Big Clive I know ur more about taking things a apart but cud u make solar light and power itself and still have charge spare. I believe it can be done but wudnt be able to get my head around the mathematics. Surely balanced ever so finely solar can light and power themselves. And still have spare power. I'm like if anyone cud build it big Clive cud.
I would love to know the design history of these things that resulted in their having lamps with Autobot emblems on them.
I think it can be summed up as "geeks".
@@bigclivedotcom but was it one lone geek or did everyone involved know and chose to keep it? Were there dissenters or discussions? An arcane corporate approvals process? I suppose it is really just curiosity about how these companies operate and how much the people making decisions know or understand (or even exist).
How accessible are the individual LEDs / connecting tracks? I'd consider getting one of these if I could mod the whole thing for 12V
Just change the drivers for ones that take a 12v input.
To mod for 12V you could make custom LED PCBs.
doesnt the heatsinks look the the transformer logo? Maybe thats why they call it autobot...
Have you considered that maybe the phone is just chuck full of crap and needs to be cleaned and optimized? Also, just saying, but a phone isn't exactly camera video worthy yet. You should consider just using an Arduino based alternative. Cheap, easy to assemble. The camera module is the most expensive bit. I'm saying Arduino because once a module dies, you just chuck it out and replace it with another. So much simpler.
I thought bigclive used an iPad to record videos... He mentions a “Lenovo phone”. Is that what he’s been using to record videos now?
Dont trip out my friend we will bare with ya no need to worry dude !!! :)
I guess the Hasbro Lawyers finally caught up with the manufacturers use of the Transformers logo
Great video Clive
Where is this light suppose to be mounting with radar detector?
Anywhere you want a motion detecting light.
how did they get that PF ? thats good work for an led fitting
Buck regulators tend to "ride the sinewave" instead of converting the incoming AC to DC and smoothing it.
@@bigclivedotcom well theres a new vid for you to make! because many (and i'm included) are really confused to hell by PF and how a full bridge versus bucks change it
I love these dang videos...
A special ep will be when Clive takes apart the HOPI gingerly.
I was thinking about doing a Hopi video today.
Are you sure it's not you're SD card causing the recording problems ... I'm still using my Moto G4 for 1080p recording with no problems...I did have problems..even when using Open camera and with the Moto camera app but this was all resolved with a new 128GB A1/A2 rated SanDisk card.....My daughter also had problems with her G6 camera app crashing with very strange crashing ranging from app not opening to crashing mid recording...that was also solved with a new SanDisk 64gb A2 card... Avoid the high speed Toshiba and Samsung A1/A2 cards with the Moto series I've had problems with both makes with 1080p recording....both the Toshiba and Samsung cards works fine in my dash cam's ..so I suspect it's Moto thing not a Toshiba or Samsung problem as such..
I still want to rebuild my floresent garage light to led strips and you keep showing this one. Will you knock it off already? Now I am on the fence. That 20 second sensor will not happen however. I cannot do that. "Oh look dear, I've cut my fingers off with the saw because the garge light went off." So ,no auto off for me.
It has a bypass switch. It could also be adapted for a much longer time.
The faces are still upside down. For a while I was thinking does the Chinese transformer knock off lighting company subscribe to the channel . Maybe Motorola should consider it.
Optimus Prime has fallen a long way
Clive can rebuild him.