Appreciate your time in making these videos. At 5:43 the most valuable piece of knowledge is shared, one that only years and years of experience could provide, one that will never be in any repair/rebuild manual. Chances are if you take your vehicle in with a P0770 your going to be told it needs to be replaced when really its just a solenoid or more likely the front oil pump "bushing".
Yes, you are correct, most shops wont drop the trans to install a bushing. I just fixed a FJ Curiser with a 5 speed trans, with a similar code(but basically same meaning) and pump bushing was the problem
You cant, Trans has to come out and pump has to be taken out as well, if you wanted to try something without dripping the trans, you could try a lock-up solenoid first.
Hey dude, I need to pick up some new shift solenoids for my A343F transmission in my Hilux Surf 3.0 Diesel (same shape as 4runner) and since I cannot find A343F specific solenoids, would any A340/A343 solenoid set work? Apparently the 'F' only stands for Fourwheeldrive?
Great video, you make it look easy. I have a 1994 4Runner 4WD Auto that seems to be slipping. I get all 4 gears no problem, however at highway speeds it seems like it's slipping or possible torque converter is not locking up. Any suggestions before i tear into it? Also with Dexron III no longer available what fluid would you recommend, Dexron VI?
I’m almost done rebuilding mine for the 3.0. Forward and direct clutches were burnt. Lo and rev was burnt. One of the drums in the transfer case gets chewed up by the seals on the output shaft. Had to send it to a place in Texas to get machined. That can cause slippage even those it’s in the t case. G-cor saved my life finding me my good pressure plates for the forward and direct clutches. Very hard to find some parts for this thing. How did your rebuild go?
Ok gary took it for 2 days of test drives.. since the new fluid has hit the inner workings it shifts much much better... about a 75% reduction in the 2-1 shift when comeing to a light.. i also took out the sliding yoke and greased it and greased my ujoints.. seems i had the yoke stuck that would help it a rougn down shift too.. seems these tacos have that issue...... and axle wrap which im taking care of that next time i get money.. but i knew the tranny was never ever cared for 120k miles not one change of fluid.. so now its acting nice but the damage is done as they say it wont ever be perfectly new but its much happier now.. i think what it was was the film that acumulates on the metal like in the pan sticking that valve you talked about.. i havent tryied the passing gear thing where you jam on the gas so it can down shift to pass another car... i dont want to put stress on this old truck.. but im sure its far better off with new fluid ive got maybe 2 or 4 quarts before its 100% all new... so i need to drive it to see if it turns alittle black if not im done.... plus im out of money lol im doing this on a budget thats why im flushing with old stock i had when i was a mechanic..
That's an awesome video. May I ask, why do you suppose the od went when the rest looked so good? Could it be due to thrashing while towing? Also, you say these almost never break. I just bought one which is supposedly getting bad on the reverse. Is that likely? Also, how much is a rebuild such as the one you're doing here? thanks.
I need help my transmission is only working in reverse it is a a340e from a Lexus sc400.. it will go into gear if I hold brake a give it a Little gas it will move forward gears an shifts good then when I come to a stop a no gears. Have to move to neutral then back to drive hold the brake an Lil gas then it will jump into gear. what could be the problem be??
Hi Gary, I've read every comment below and I am very impressed with all your knowledge and your willingness to help every person asking you for advice and help. Thank you for taking the time because thousands of people read these and find answers... I too need help... I have a 2002 4runner with the a340f , no shift cable type, that locks up and stalls the engine as soon as I shift into forward and reverse. TC lock up not disengaging... I get the P0770 Sol "E" code. On Christmas Day on my back, I dropped the pan and replaced the 3 solenoids with the ROSTRA kit from AZ. Lock up sol and both shift solenoids. Now I find out that this trans has the 4th solenoid on top of the valve body as well. The Long one. In your Video you referred to it as the "EPC" Sol. Some Videos and blogs refer to this one as being the Lock Up Solenoid for the 2002 and later. Is that true, that this one controls the Torque Converter Lock up instead. I didn't realize there even was an 'EPC' Sol in this unit, until after I got it all back together, and started looking for other solutions. Hoping you can help me. My scan tool shows "Solenoid SLT > ON.. Can a bad EPC sol keep the TC clutch from disengaging, or is there no relationship and it is there for unrelated pressure control. . Is it worth while to drop the Valve Body and replace the EPC Sol... ? Toyota refers to Part # 35290-60020 as the EPC or "Lock Up" Solenoid for 2002 - 2009 4runner. Does EPC = Lock up for this year /build? Thank you very much for all you do... and, Thank you for reading this and your very knowledgeable response.
Hi Brad, No, EPC Solenoid is Electronic Pressure Control. That solenoid controls the main line pressure. First thing to check just to make sure it's good is the Snorkel tube that is attached to the air box, make sure there are no big cracks where it would allow extra air to enter the engine and stall(have seen this before) Question, does the stalling happen hot or all the time?
@Gary Ferraro Hi Gary, Thanks for your response... I appreciate any insight I can get, but this is no doubt a TCC lock up problem and my question is about the EPC solenoid. It's not like my engine is sucking air.. The engine runs strong, But when I shift out of park / neutral into Drive or Reverse, The engine is physically / mechanically, instantly being held from turning and forced to stop rotating. The vehicle tries to lunge forward and the unforgiving strength of the drivetrain kills the rotation of the engine instantly. Exactly like if it were a standard and I drop the clutch with my foot on the brake. It doesn't stumble and stall out. Even when I give it some throttle, it lunges and dies, even harder. I know you understand what I am describing here... I am elaborating for your future readers to be able to relate to what happens when a Torque Converter Lock Up Clutch does not release the transmission and it's locked in rotation to the engine crank shaft. When the vehicle/transmission stops... So does the engine.! It's Like driving a standard with a broken clutch cable... When you approach a stop sign, the whole vehicle BUCKS and the engine STALLS. It doesn't just coast to a stop like a stalled engine normally does with an automatic trans, Even though, this IS an automatic trans. So, Back to the Transmission/torque converter, EPC issue. A friend of mine owns a transmission shop and told me it's worth replacing it before dropping the whole trans out, because if the pressure isn't getting to the clutches inside the TC, it not going to release them. Some of these guys here on RUclips that have tear down vids are all calling this EPC sol - the Lock Up Sol on the 01 and later A340F. It's discouraging to hear that you think I will be wasting my time and that the EPC has no effect on the pressure needed to release the TCC lock up clutches, but now I have shelled out another $150 for the new EPC solenoid, so this weekend, I will drop the pan again, but this time the complete valve body as well, so I can gain access and replace the Pressure control solenoid on top. I'll try it, I'll flush the valve body and look for sun gear pieces in the the o-rings of the valves... Lol. Wish me luck.. Thanks too Gary, for all you do.
For the most part, aren't these A340 and A341E transmissions considered pretty long lasting? I drive a car with the original, untouched (except for religious maintenance) A341E with 380,000 miles. Still shifts flawlessly.
I ran my lexus sc300 on dirty black fluid. Wasn't until a few days ago it refused to go into any gear. Is it worth it to service the transmission or just swap it?
Is this the same a340e in a 2001 4runner? I know gm and ford transmissions very well but my runner is slipping 1 and 2nd and I will be doing the rebuild myself?
Does anyone know what would cause hard shifting in this A340, even harder when cold? Mine has really hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear and a little softer slamming from 2nd to 3rd gear. One morning when cold the RPM's went really high until it finally slammed into 2nd gear.
Looks like there is more than One speed sensor and are both the same part numbers? And is it necessary to buy the little round gear located on the end or its not usually the problem? . Because I have a problem with my twin turbo soarer where the speed shows 0 then may jump to 150km and then lower numbers again all while cruising between 40-80km. Any idea what could be the issue. It's also not letting me use full throttle max half throttle or it will cut power till I let go of accelerator and drive normal
Love the videos. I'm subscribed. I have a Toyota with a A245E 4 speed That has shift shock going into over drive while warmed and clunkss harshly when I'm slowing down. Do you have any experience with these transmissions? Any known pattern failures? all Gears work other than that. Also, Are you from NY?
1994 toyota corolla dx model. Is that sericeable without droping the trans? Btw im in Brooklyn. Names Anthony. Nice to meet you and appreciate the info
There are 3 accumulators under the valvebody, but i would like to research this alittle more, because im also thinking about a possible check ball problem in the valvebody or there is also a anti rattle clip that can cause clunks in the higher gears as well. How is your engagement into drive?
Gary Ferraro I did already sir, and I appreciate your channel very much. Could you pump up video resolution? 360p is kinda low for your valuable content
hey gary.. i pulled the pan.. wow was it covered in film black film... there was about 2.1 quarts after draining that was black i have 120k miles they didnt once change the oil in it.... so i cleaned it all up.... added 5 quarts just above the cold top mark to make sure... i cleaned out all the 3 solenoids they have 14 ohms resistance each... they actuated when i stuck 12 volts on them i also used brake cleaner on them... one was sticking alittle the tourq converter one... put it all together.. ive got 2 quarts that needs to be changed out to equal the 12 so im there.. almost one more drain and fill.. there was one small shard of metal in the pan magnets... also tiny particles not un common for 120k miles i mean it was minute..... also the filter was dirty.. so i put it back and drove it.. the harsh shift down from 2 -1 is cut in half.... it might get better over time when the new fluid circulates more..... so if my valves are good.. what could that be? if its still doing it...? mind you its far better now smoother but still im ocd and notice alittle maybe its normal for a truck... my Nissan altima 1997 was smooth when it shifted and it had 200k miles on it... i dunno maybe im over reacting let me know what you think thanks
how do i force a down shift? i dont have a scan tool capable of accessing the tcm and activating things.. i have a matco md1000 scan tool.... and no it does not have the cable you mentioned. i wish i had access to the schematics from Toyota.. the all data versions i have does not show but 3 solenoids.. oh thts the solenoid thats long... is there any way to get to the epc valve without pulling the whole valve body apart?
@@jackoneill8585 When you driving do a couple of kickdowns(passing gear). The epc solenoid, can't really get to it unless you drop the valvebody, but try a couple of kickdowns
AHH got ya.. ill try that in a couple of days... yea i figured as much... if it gets worse id just get a whole valve body and go from there have a shop install it toyota dealer... and just be done with it...
I'm currently working on a 91 Toyota Pickup Transmission. I just put it in; but, it's leaking like sieve and I don't want to take it back out. I don't even know what model transmission I'm dealing with; but, after some youtube research, I found that it's leaking from the extension housing and it's right at the edge of the rear oil pan line. I thought it was leaking from the oil pan gasket; but, it's not. Do you know what model transmission it is and what seal do I need to replace? Plus, where can I buy that seal? ruclips.net/video/J1hxiDTvbX0/видео.html
Great video I had just done mine but upon starting and idling I put it into reverse and one of the metal tubes pop out which results to no reverse any idea why?
Next one i get sure, quick tip on these transmissions, change the molded pistons when doing an overhaul, they give problems, also the U660E is in the 6 cylinder cars, the cases wear out at the center bearing. the 4 cylinder cars have the U760E, the case does not wear on these.
Hi Gary. I have a client in south africa with a A3040 Transmission toyota. It does not engage reverse, no movement. But it drives fine all front gears. He replaced the reverse solonoid and oil. thats the info. No her did not replace the oil filter, i asked. Any advise. No scanner connected as to yet and he is not close to me so still have to get to that when i am in his area
@@GaryFerraro He says neutral stands still and park stand still as it should work. Only reverse does not engage, does not even effect the revs as it should when car is put into gear. Thanks for the reply.
@@sv_endless6340 Well, very possible the low/reverse clutch is no good. Think on that unit the clutch is on in manual one, you can see if there is engine breaking in manual one
Hi Gary I have a 2000 4Runner V6 4WD. I'm getting that P0770 code and I heard you say something about that very code in this video but I didn't quite understand what you did. Was it indeed the solenoid?
@@GaryFerraro The 6:01 point. I was going to order a solenoid first. That's what I didn't understand, the type/kind of solenoid you used. After re watching I wonder If I should just drive it until it quits. Ive just been clearing the code. When I drive it there doesn't seem to be an issue. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
@@gbrianmullinax8448 ok, just thinking maybe code would not clear which may be a solenoid, if takes a while can really be bushings worn valvebody, possible solenoid too but i don't see that much
Nice and very educative video. I have a 1996 T100 with same A340E tranny. It will go into reverse and drive but will not shift beyond 1st gear. What is likely the problem
Hi Gary. I have a A340f that I got out of a wreck . I installed it in my 4runner. The problem is that it slips badly at first when I put it in Drive. Only in Drive. It does fine in low and reverse and it shifts fine. It just slips in Drive when I try to take off. I've been told that it probably isn't the clutches. What is ur opinion?
@@GaryFerraro yes, reverse and low work just fine. Just when I put it in Drive it makes the truck move forward but not like normal ( softer) and then when you give it gas it slips. I can barely give it gas and it will go but I have to really try not to make it slip. It's just when I put it in Drive or 2nd.
gary i need your advice i got the same tranny out of a 02 Tacoma 2.7 liter extra cab off road trd... anyway it shifts fine going up.. but when i come down from 2nd to first at a stop light its a little rough not too bad but a little rough what could it be? and it seems to only do this once and a while not all the time ive swapped 50% of the fluid with non Toyota just dex 3 which Toyota stuff is.. anyway do you think it could be the shift sylinoid for first gear or should i just do a filter change and change out all the fluid? or is it something else?
im not sure.. its a 02 tacoma extra cab prerunner.. not the 4x4... just a standard automatic 4 speed trans is all i know.... what are you thinking the cable is staring to stretch? possible to adjust it? the only cables off the throttle are the throttle on the passenger side going into the throttle body and the cruise control cable on the same side... no cable other than those to come off the throttle.. not sure what else this could be.. i was thinking just put in 3 solenoids do a filter kit and 2.1 quarts and call it a day.. that is if i dont have to pull the whole valve assembly to change the solenoids and just do it under the vehicle..... it seems to hold just fine on take off meaning its not slipping the clutch pack... now that i think about it sometimes its hard or alittle rough barely that when you slow down to turn a corner and it hits second gear then has to upshift that its a tad rough.. so im thinking valve body i dunno thats why im asking you trying to save myself money.... if it comes down to it ill just buy a remaned tranny and have toyota install it...
@@jackoneill8585 ok, next question, do you happen to know if you have 3 or 4 solenoids, if you have 4 solenoids then you have an EPC solenoid, Are there any codes in the transmission or engine?
no codes in the tcm or ecm ...im not sure how many i have but its a 4 speed trans with overdrive... so im not sure how to find out how many it has.. ive seen them with 3 and 4 on all data.. it shows 3 solenoids and their location in diagram.. so i guess 3.. i just checked the program....can i get to the 3 solenoids on the ground and swap them out? without having to pull the valve body?
@@jackoneill8585 I believe you can, pretty much if this has a detent cable you have 3 solenoids, no cable 4 solenoids, but you should be able to change the 3.
do you have any videos about a SX2.0 car. the transmission sometimes will work then Rev then will drop into gear drive for a bit then do it again the last time I did try to drive it it would not work.
Im having a a pretty hard bang on my 2014 tundra at around 25 to 35 mph...when i am just cruising normally at 35 mph and let my foot off the pedal,it slows down to 30mph, then when i reapply the throttle it jerks the truck and clunks no matter how gentle i am...i flushes trans and put new filter...wondering what it could be? Any help would be great
@@GaryFerraro i have been trying to chase it down for 20k miles i think its getting worse..i ckecked all u joints and greased everything...i bought it used and the first trans fluid change was very very dirty
hello great video i have a 1999 4runner it goes into reverse but doesn't feel like it goes into gear if you get on the throttle it will go but slowly it went into the shop to replace the crank bearings and came out with a trans problem i was away on vacation a friend picked it up for me said trans felt weird got back from vacation garage was closed im thinking they pulled a fast one there was a 4runner on the lift when i dropped it of trans oil was clean when it went in and filthy when i got it back let me know what you think thanks in advance
@@GaryFerraro when you put it in drive it revs up and moves slowly the higher you rev more it will go oil is dirty reverse is fine no problem in reverse totally normal
I have a 1996 toyota land cruiser and love the car. But when i let off the throttle and coast around corners or what have you sometime it seems like it goes into neutral and then when i apply throttle again the tranny doesent seem to be in gear until engine rpms get to about 1200 1300 then bang all of the sudden.(basically what i am saying is it is not a smooth liner transition between engine rpm and vehicle speed.) What would cause this problem? Any ideas how to fix it?
@@GaryFerraro I was thinking of dumping fluid and putting new fluid and filter in. I have heard you can adjust a kickdown lever on these for more line pressure. Is there anything else it could be. Thanks again p.s. the car has 200000 miles on it.
@@Logan_H701 yes cable can adjust. I would say if low fluid level is not the problem, may have something internal but it certainly sounds like low fluid, before you dump the fluid, check the level, dump a quart in and see how much it moves, drive the car see if you still have the problem
I have a 2000 Lexus gs300 giving me a P1755 lock up solenoid. I changed it and checked the plug for power and it came back ok. Lexus forum says replace the ECU but I don’t think this is broken. Should I pull off the valve body and clean it out or just do a flush?
Gary Ferraro in just one to two minutes. If I leave the battery unplugged over night in the morning driving the car is hard shifting first and second gear the code takes up to 5 minutes to set then the transmission goes back to normal but I still feel a light hard shift from first to second gear. I checked the tranny pan no metal pieces
update.. ive flushed it and replaced the filter etc.. fluid is alittle dirty but i ran outta money.... its still doing it alittle bit when i come to a stop from 2-1 down shift alittle bit rough but nothing like omg... so im thinking either just leave it.. or buy a rebuilt trans and have one installed.. my 10k truck from a used car dealer will cost me as much as a new car.. im so pissed at this used car place..... i got it from i could of bought a nissan 2018 for 16 grand new but no thought i got a deal till i replaced all the smog equiptment etc and dumped thousands into this thing.. so people watch out you can get scammed too
I have not looked at it in a a couple of months. I will be getting it moved to my new house and unto my gerage. then the first thing I was going to do was drop the pan see how bad it is. check the fluid. I had it on my scanner and it shows all the electrical working there was no codes
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Appreciate your time in making these videos. At 5:43 the most valuable piece of knowledge is shared, one that only years and years of experience could provide, one that will never be in any repair/rebuild manual. Chances are if you take your vehicle in with a P0770 your going to be told it needs to be replaced when really its just a solenoid or more likely the front oil pump "bushing".
Yes, you are correct, most shops wont drop the trans to install a bushing. I just fixed a FJ Curiser with a 5 speed trans, with a similar code(but basically same meaning) and pump bushing was the problem
Gary Ferraro Hi Gary, I have a 2001 4Runner with a P0770 code, how do I change the front oil pump bushing on it without dropping the trans?
You cant, Trans has to come out and pump has to be taken out as well, if you wanted to try something without dripping the trans, you could try a lock-up solenoid first.
good video thanks for good information
where do u get new parts or replacement part?
As always excellent video.!
Thanks John
Hey dude, I need to pick up some new shift solenoids for my A343F transmission in my Hilux Surf 3.0 Diesel (same shape as 4runner) and since I cannot find A343F specific solenoids, would any A340/A343 solenoid set work?
Apparently the 'F' only stands for Fourwheeldrive?
Great video, you make it look easy. I have a 1994 4Runner 4WD Auto that seems to be slipping. I get all 4 gears no problem, however at highway speeds it seems like it's slipping or possible torque converter is not locking up. Any suggestions before i tear into it? Also with Dexron III no longer available what fluid would you recommend, Dexron VI?
I’m almost done rebuilding mine for the 3.0. Forward and direct clutches were burnt. Lo and rev was burnt. One of the drums in the transfer case gets chewed up by the seals on the output shaft. Had to send it to a place in Texas to get machined. That can cause slippage even those it’s in the t case. G-cor saved my life finding me my good pressure plates for the forward and direct clutches. Very hard to find some parts for this thing.
How did your rebuild go?
Ok gary took it for 2 days of test drives.. since the new fluid has hit the inner workings it shifts much much better... about a 75% reduction in the 2-1 shift when comeing to a light..
i also took out the sliding yoke and greased it and greased my ujoints.. seems i had the yoke stuck that would help it a rougn down shift too.. seems these tacos have that issue...... and axle wrap which im taking care of that next time i get money.. but i knew the tranny was never ever cared for 120k miles not one change of fluid.. so now its acting nice but the damage is done as they say it wont ever be perfectly new but its much happier now.. i think what it was was the film that acumulates on the metal like in the pan sticking that valve you talked about.. i havent tryied the passing gear thing where you jam on the gas so it can down shift to pass another car... i dont want to put stress on this old truck.. but im sure its far better off with new fluid ive got maybe 2 or 4 quarts before its 100% all new... so i need to drive it to see if it turns alittle black if not im done....
plus im out of money lol im doing this on a budget thats why im flushing with old stock i had when i was a mechanic..
Can the side servo for the band be reinstalled without teardown? How?
What torque converter brand do you recommend for this same transmission only mines is 4WD
Thanks for video, very useful.
Thanks for watching
Good video, thanks for sharing! I did a shift kit on an A343F, and this video would have been helpful! Thanks again.
Thanks for watching, any transmission questions just let me know
That's an awesome video. May I ask, why do you suppose the od went when the rest looked so good? Could it be due to thrashing while towing? Also, you say these almost never break. I just bought one which is supposedly getting bad on the reverse. Is that likely? Also, how much is a rebuild such as the one you're doing here? thanks.
Hey did your transmission end up giving out on you?
@@mikeypotts4732 I just took it apart, never tried to use it.
I have a 2002 Sequoia that has the same transmission problem. Is it possible for me to send it to you to have it rebuilt?
I need help my transmission is only working in reverse it is a a340e from a Lexus sc400.. it will go into gear if I hold brake a give it a Little gas it will move forward gears an shifts good then when I come to a stop a no gears. Have to move to neutral then back to drive hold the brake an Lil gas then it will jump into gear. what could be the problem be??
Hi Gary, I've read every comment below and I am very impressed with all your knowledge and your willingness to help every person asking you for advice and help. Thank you for taking the time because thousands of people read these and find answers...
I too need help... I have a 2002 4runner with the a340f , no shift cable type, that locks up and stalls the engine as soon as I shift into forward and reverse. TC lock up not disengaging... I get the P0770 Sol "E" code. On Christmas Day on my back, I dropped the pan and replaced the 3 solenoids with the ROSTRA kit from AZ. Lock up sol and both shift solenoids. Now I find out that this trans has the 4th solenoid on top of the valve body as well. The Long one. In your Video you referred to it as the "EPC" Sol. Some Videos and blogs refer to this one as being the Lock Up Solenoid for the 2002 and later. Is that true, that this one controls the Torque Converter Lock up instead. I didn't realize there even was an 'EPC' Sol in this unit, until after I got it all back together, and started looking for other solutions.
Hoping you can help me. My scan tool shows "Solenoid SLT > ON.. Can a bad EPC sol keep the TC clutch from disengaging, or is there no relationship and it is there for unrelated pressure control. . Is it worth while to drop the Valve Body and replace the EPC Sol... ? Toyota refers to Part # 35290-60020 as the EPC or "Lock Up" Solenoid for 2002 - 2009 4runner. Does EPC = Lock up for this year /build? Thank you very much for all you do... and, Thank you for reading this and your very knowledgeable response.
Hi Brad, No, EPC Solenoid is Electronic Pressure Control. That solenoid controls the main line pressure. First thing to check just to make sure it's good is the Snorkel tube that is attached to the air box, make sure there are no big cracks where it would allow extra air to enter the engine and stall(have seen this before) Question, does the stalling happen hot or all the time?
@Gary Ferraro Hi Gary, Thanks for your response... I appreciate any insight I can get, but this is no doubt a TCC lock up problem and my question is about the EPC solenoid. It's not like my engine is sucking air.. The engine runs strong, But when I shift out of park / neutral into Drive or Reverse, The engine is physically / mechanically, instantly being held from turning and forced to stop rotating. The vehicle tries to lunge forward and the unforgiving strength of the drivetrain kills the rotation of the engine instantly. Exactly like if it were a standard and I drop the clutch with my foot on the brake. It doesn't stumble and stall out. Even when I give it some throttle, it lunges and dies, even harder. I know you understand what I am describing here... I am elaborating for your future readers to be able to relate to what happens when a Torque Converter Lock Up Clutch does not release the transmission and it's locked in rotation to the engine crank shaft. When the vehicle/transmission stops... So does the engine.! It's Like driving a standard with a broken clutch cable... When you approach a stop sign, the whole vehicle BUCKS and the engine STALLS. It doesn't just coast to a stop like a stalled engine normally does with an automatic trans, Even though, this IS an automatic trans.
So, Back to the Transmission/torque converter, EPC issue. A friend of mine owns a transmission shop and told me it's worth replacing it before dropping the whole trans out, because if the pressure isn't getting to the clutches inside the TC, it not going to release them. Some of these guys here on RUclips that have tear down vids are all calling this EPC sol - the Lock Up Sol on the 01 and later A340F. It's discouraging to hear that you think I will be wasting my time and that the EPC has no effect on the pressure needed to release the TCC lock up clutches, but now I have shelled out another $150 for the new EPC solenoid, so this weekend, I will drop the pan again, but this time the complete valve body as well, so I can gain access and replace the Pressure control solenoid on top. I'll try it, I'll flush the valve body and look for sun gear pieces in the the o-rings of the valves... Lol. Wish me luck.. Thanks too Gary, for all you do.
For the most part, aren't these A340 and A341E transmissions considered pretty long lasting? I drive a car with the original, untouched (except for religious maintenance) A341E with 380,000 miles. Still shifts flawlessly.
I ran my lexus sc300 on dirty black fluid. Wasn't until a few days ago it refused to go into any gear. Is it worth it to service the transmission or just swap it?
If this will not move and it's full of fluid, service will not help
Is this the same a340e in a 2001 4runner? I know gm and ford transmissions very well but my runner is slipping 1 and 2nd and I will be doing the rebuild myself?
It maybe similar yes, not sure the tooth counts are the same
Does anyone know what would cause hard shifting in this A340, even harder when cold? Mine has really hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear and a little softer slamming from 2nd to 3rd gear. One morning when cold the RPM's went really high until it finally slammed into 2nd gear.
lol may be some one moded it if bought if that way
Looks like there is more than One speed sensor and are both the same part numbers? And is it necessary to buy the little round gear located on the end or its not usually the problem? . Because I have a problem with my twin turbo soarer where the speed shows 0 then may jump to 150km and then lower numbers again all while cruising between 40-80km.
Any idea what could be the issue. It's also not letting me use full throttle max half throttle or it will cut power till I let go of accelerator and drive normal
The input speed sensor? Do you have a code for that?
Hi Gary, is there a A340or similar that is full Hydraulic controlled ? no computer, cheers Brett
There is maybe back in the early 90's
Love the videos. I'm subscribed. I have a Toyota with a A245E 4 speed That has shift shock going into over drive while warmed and clunkss harshly when I'm slowing down. Do you have any experience with these transmissions? Any known pattern failures? all Gears work other than that. Also, Are you from NY?
Anthony, Just to confirm, if you drive the car with the overdrive off, it drives ok? Are there any codes present? Yes im in New York on Long Island.
No codes OBD1 but yes if I drive with the overdrive switch off it drives fine I change the solenoid for the overdrive but the problem still there
There maybe a broken accumulator spring in the trans(accumulator softens shifts). What year is your car?
1994 toyota corolla dx model. Is that sericeable without droping the trans? Btw im in Brooklyn. Names Anthony. Nice to meet you and appreciate the info
There are 3 accumulators under the valvebody, but i would like to research this alittle more, because im also thinking about a possible check ball problem in the valvebody or there is also a anti rattle clip that can cause clunks in the higher gears as well. How is your engagement into drive?
You gotta respect the transmission rebuilders They are the brain-surgeons of the automotive mechanics
Thanks for watching, please subscribe. Any questions just let me know
Gary Ferraro I did already sir, and I appreciate your channel very much. Could you pump up video resolution? 360p is kinda low for your valuable content
@@Airman.. Going to try to upload on my laptop, i have so much on my main PC at home, it keeps telling me "not enough room" Thanks again for watching
Always tow with overdrive off and change your fluid! my 02 has 319k on it.
Thanks for the info Steve.
Gary Ferraro no problem
hey gary.. i pulled the pan.. wow was it covered in film black film... there was about 2.1 quarts after draining that was black i have 120k miles they didnt once change the oil in it....
so i cleaned it all up.... added 5 quarts just above the cold top mark to make sure... i cleaned out all the 3 solenoids they have 14 ohms resistance each... they actuated when i stuck 12 volts on them i also used brake cleaner on them... one was sticking alittle the tourq converter one... put it all together.. ive got 2 quarts that needs to be changed out to equal the 12 so im there.. almost one more drain and fill..
there was one small shard of metal in the pan magnets... also tiny particles not un common for 120k miles i mean it was minute..... also the filter was dirty.. so i put it back and drove it.. the harsh shift down from 2 -1 is cut in half.... it might get better over time when the new fluid circulates more.....
so if my valves are good.. what could that be? if its still doing it...? mind you its far better now smoother but still im ocd and notice alittle maybe its normal for a truck... my Nissan altima 1997 was smooth when it shifted and it had 200k miles on it... i dunno maybe im over reacting let me know what you think thanks
If the trans has no cable, it has an epc solenoid, which means it may adapt, when hot try a couple of forced downshifts, see if that helps
how do i force a down shift? i dont have a scan tool capable of accessing the tcm and activating things.. i have a matco md1000 scan tool.... and no it does not have the cable you mentioned.
i wish i had access to the schematics from Toyota.. the all data versions i have does not show but 3 solenoids.. oh thts the solenoid thats long... is there any way to get to the epc valve without pulling the whole valve body apart?
@@jackoneill8585 When you driving do a couple of kickdowns(passing gear). The epc solenoid, can't really get to it unless you drop the valvebody, but try a couple of kickdowns
AHH got ya.. ill try that in a couple of days... yea i figured as much... if it gets worse id just get a whole valve body and go from there have a shop install it toyota dealer... and just be done with it...
I'm currently working on a 91 Toyota Pickup Transmission. I just put it in; but, it's leaking like sieve and I don't want to take it back out. I don't even know what model transmission I'm dealing with; but, after some youtube research, I found that it's leaking from the extension housing and it's right at the edge of the rear oil pan line. I thought it was leaking from the oil pan gasket; but, it's not. Do you know what model transmission it is and what seal do I need to replace? Plus, where can I buy that seal? ruclips.net/video/J1hxiDTvbX0/видео.html
Nice video
Thank you
Great video I had just done mine but upon starting and idling I put it into reverse and one of the metal tubes pop out which results to no reverse any idea why?
It probably was not in all the way
@@GaryFerraro Its happened twice now unfortunately also small bits of non magnetic metallic bits are in the pan upon draining
hi gary nice video
can you do a video on toyota u660e
Next one i get sure, quick tip on these transmissions, change the molded pistons when doing an overhaul, they give problems, also the U660E is in the 6 cylinder cars, the cases wear out at the center bearing. the 4 cylinder cars have the U760E, the case does not wear on these.
Do you have the assembly process of this transmission
I do not ,sorry
Hi Gary. I have a client in south africa with a A3040 Transmission toyota. It does not engage reverse, no movement. But it drives fine all front gears. He replaced the reverse solonoid and oil. thats the info. No her did not replace the oil filter, i asked. Any advise. No scanner connected as to yet and he is not close to me so still have to get to that when i am in his area
Ask him if by chance if this moves forward in Neutral
@@GaryFerraro He says neutral stands still and park stand still as it should work. Only reverse does not engage, does not even effect the revs as it should when car is put into gear. Thanks for the reply.
@@sv_endless6340 Well, very possible the low/reverse clutch is no good. Think on that unit the clutch is on in manual one, you can see if there is engine breaking in manual one
Hi Gary
I have a 2000 4Runner V6 4WD. I'm getting that P0770 code and I heard you say something about that very code in this video but I didn't quite understand what you did. Was it indeed the solenoid?
Something like this could be the solenoid, the pump bushing, the stator bushing or converter itself. What time in the video was i talking about this
@@GaryFerraro The 6:01 point. I was going to order a solenoid first. That's what I didn't understand, the type/kind of solenoid you used. After re watching I wonder If I should just drive it until it quits. Ive just been clearing the code. When I drive it there doesn't seem to be an issue. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
@@gbrianmullinax8448 ok, i was pointing to the stator bushing, a worn bushing can cause that code. Once cleared, how long before the code returns?
@@GaryFerraro It varies. It can be several days even a week or so. I don’t drive it on a regular basis.
@@gbrianmullinax8448 ok, just thinking maybe code would not clear which may be a solenoid, if takes a while can really be bushings worn valvebody, possible solenoid too but i don't see that much
Nice and very educative video. I have a 1996 T100 with same A340E tranny. It will go into reverse and drive but will not shift beyond 1st gear. What is likely the problem
would like to know if any codes are present
@@GaryFerraro no codes
Please show me how to fix a540e valve body
what problem do you have?
Hi Gary. I have a A340f that I got out of a wreck . I installed it in my 4runner. The problem is that it slips badly at first when I put it in Drive. Only in Drive. It does fine in low and reverse and it shifts fine. It just slips in Drive when I try to take off. I've been told that it probably isn't the clutches. What is ur opinion?
It probably is, unless it doesn't move in drive and pulls in manual low, that may be a sprag problem. Reverse is ok?
@@GaryFerraro yes, reverse and low work just fine. Just when I put it in Drive it makes the truck move forward but not like normal ( softer) and then when you give it gas it slips. I can barely give it gas and it will go but I have to really try not to make it slip. It's just when I put it in Drive or 2nd.
@@todhowell6366 sounds like forward clutch problem, these units are generally pretty good, wonder if ran low on fluid at some point
Yeah the fluid was low and it looked like burnt oil when I flushed out the lines and cooler. So burnt clutches?
@@todhowell6366 More than likely yes
question, I rebuild a re5r05a (2005-Xterra) but we use parts from a re5r05a (2006-350z) now trans don't move on any gear. thanks for your time
As a test, start it up and unplug the connector see if it moves. did you use the original valvebody?
Gary Ferraro I'm using the 350z valve body.
Gary Ferraro I can pay or d a donation for you.
Luxury Auto's do you have reverse?
Gary Ferraro .no reverse don't move on any gear. I can move the drive shaft , and I'm using the (350z ) valve body.
gary i need your advice i got the same tranny out of a 02 Tacoma 2.7 liter extra cab off road trd... anyway it shifts fine going up.. but when i come down from 2nd to first at a stop light its a little rough not too bad but a little rough what could it be? and it seems to only do this once and a while not all the time
ive swapped 50% of the fluid with non Toyota just dex 3 which Toyota stuff is..
anyway do you think it could be the shift sylinoid for first gear or should i just do a filter change and change out all the fluid? or is it something else?
Does the car have a kick down cable? (some do and some do not)
im not sure.. its a 02 tacoma extra cab prerunner.. not the 4x4... just a standard automatic 4 speed trans is all i know.... what are you thinking the cable is staring to stretch? possible to adjust it? the only cables off the throttle are the throttle on the passenger side going into the throttle body and the cruise control cable on the same side... no cable other than those to come off the throttle.. not sure what else this could be.. i was thinking just put in 3 solenoids do a filter kit and 2.1 quarts and call it a day.. that is if i dont have to pull the whole valve assembly to change the solenoids and just do it under the vehicle..... it seems to hold just fine on take off meaning its not slipping the clutch pack... now that i think about it sometimes its hard or alittle rough barely that when you slow down to turn a corner and it hits second gear then has to upshift that its a tad rough.. so im thinking valve body i dunno thats why im asking you trying to save myself money.... if it comes down to it ill just buy a remaned tranny and have toyota install it...
@@jackoneill8585 ok, next question, do you happen to know if you have 3 or 4 solenoids, if you have 4 solenoids then you have an EPC solenoid, Are there any codes in the transmission or engine?
no codes in the tcm or ecm ...im not sure how many i have but its a 4 speed trans with overdrive... so im not sure how to find out how many it has.. ive seen them with 3 and 4 on all data.. it shows 3 solenoids and their location in diagram.. so i guess 3.. i just checked the program....can i get to the 3 solenoids on the ground and swap them out? without having to pull the valve body?
@@jackoneill8585 I believe you can, pretty much if this has a detent cable you have 3 solenoids, no cable 4 solenoids, but you should be able to change the 3.
I have seen that damage from tow jobs on front wheels
do you have any videos about a SX2.0 car. the transmission sometimes will work then Rev then will drop into gear drive for a bit then do it again the last time I did try to drive it it would not work.
What trans do you have?
What likely causes a failure like this in the first place?
I personally think that a bearing failed and that took the planet set out
the light is not good
i can't see the parts inside transmission .
Sorry about that
Im having a a pretty hard bang on my 2014 tundra at around 25 to 35 mph...when i am just cruising normally at 35 mph and let my foot off the pedal,it slows down to 30mph, then when i reapply the throttle it jerks the truck and clunks no matter how gentle i am...i flushes trans and put new filter...wondering what it could be? Any help would be great
Do have any codes? Do you know what transmission you have in the car?
@@GaryFerraro no codes...its 4x4 5.7 tundra i think ab60f
@@SWEATY-Braaapper666 Does this happen when the car is cold too?
@@GaryFerraro no it does not seem as prominent when cold only when warm
@@GaryFerraro i have been trying to chase it down for 20k miles i think its getting worse..i ckecked all u joints and greased everything...i bought it used and the first trans fluid change was very very dirty
hello great video i have a 1999 4runner it goes into reverse but doesn't feel like it goes into gear if you get on the throttle it will go but slowly it went into the shop to replace the crank bearings and came out with a trans problem i was away on vacation a friend picked it up for me said trans felt weird got back from vacation garage was closed im thinking they pulled a fast one there was a 4runner on the lift when i dropped it of trans oil was clean when it went in and filthy when i got it back let me know what you think thanks in advance
ok, and no prior issues before this? when you put it in drive it just revs and will not move and reverse is ok? what is the condition of the oil?
@@GaryFerraro when you put it in drive it revs up and moves slowly the higher you rev more it will go oil is dirty reverse is fine no problem in reverse totally normal
@@GaryFerraro any suggestions?
@@jdd-ht2nv Almost sounds like the trans is in failsafe, have you had it scanned for codes?
@@GaryFerraro no codes except o2 sensor
Are you familiar with the A343f in a 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser?
I worked on a few, similar to the 340 trans
I have a 1996 toyota land cruiser and love the car. But when i let off the throttle and coast around corners or what have you sometime it seems like it goes into neutral and then when i apply throttle again the tranny doesent seem to be in gear until engine rpms get to about 1200 1300 then bang all of the sudden.(basically what i am saying is it is not a smooth liner transition between engine rpm and vehicle speed.) What would cause this problem? Any ideas how to fix it?
@@Logan_H701 Almost sounds like it's low on fluid, if the fluid level is good, i would overfill it and see if problem persists
@@GaryFerraro I was thinking of dumping fluid and putting new fluid and filter in. I have heard you can adjust a kickdown lever on these for more line pressure. Is there anything else it could be. Thanks again p.s. the car has 200000 miles on it.
@@Logan_H701 yes cable can adjust. I would say if low fluid level is not the problem, may have something internal but it certainly sounds like low fluid, before you dump the fluid, check the level, dump a quart in and see how much it moves, drive the car see if you still have the problem
I e got one of these it had reverse but stoped working in reverse and goes fwd in nutral
Your forward clutch is locked on and will not release, did you by chance run it low on oil
It is a salvage yard transmission and we dont know any history on it so we are going to pull it and rebuild it
Thank you very much
I have a 2000 Lexus gs300 giving me a P1755 lock up solenoid. I changed it and checked the plug for power and it came back ok. Lexus forum says replace the ECU but I don’t think this is broken. Should I pull off the valve body and clean it out or just do a flush?
What is the definition of that code?
Gary Ferraro Shift lock up solenoid
Low pressure
@@servo5651 If you clear the code, how fast does it come back?
Gary Ferraro in just one to two minutes. If I leave the battery unplugged over night in the morning driving the car is hard shifting first and second gear the code takes up to 5 minutes to set then the transmission goes back to normal but I still feel a light hard shift from first to second gear. I checked the tranny pan no metal pieces
Gary Ferraro I was driving it this morning and hit the power transmission button. The Lexus GS300 lifted up into the air and took off
update.. ive flushed it and replaced the filter etc.. fluid is alittle dirty but i ran outta money.... its still doing it alittle bit when i come to a stop from 2-1 down shift alittle bit rough but nothing like omg... so im thinking either just leave it.. or buy a rebuilt trans and have one installed.. my 10k truck from a used car dealer will cost me as much as a new car.. im so pissed at this used car place..... i got it from i could of bought a nissan 2018 for 16 grand new but no thought i got a deal till i replaced all the smog equiptment etc and dumped thousands into this thing.. so people watch out you can get scammed too
What year is the truck?
@@GaryFerraro 02 prerunner 2.7L
I believe it is a 40TE or 41TE.
Im assuming its full of fluid? whats the condition of the fluid? does this have an external solenoid pack(the 41TE has this)
I have not looked at it in a a couple of months. I will be getting it moved to my new house and unto my gerage. then the first thing I was going to do was drop the pan see how bad it is. check the fluid. I had it on my scanner and it shows all the electrical working there was no codes
ok, let me know
I THANKS YOUR
Thanks for watching
damn that transmission is like a clown car. he just keeps reaching in and pulling out more and more parts.
Dennis Datin LOL. Yes this one is. Like 7 sets of clutches
this video looks like its from 85
I like it
@@tylerd55555 Thank You
Ничего не понял, но видео интересное
Translation
Понял
working hard
@@user-nv5sp9mg7v Yes 7 days a week
you need to rest before the weekend
Only Toyotas To AVOID!
2000-Land Cruisers/LX470s,
2000-2002 Tundras and Sequoias
THESE WERE THE ONES EFFECTED BY THE WEAK PLANETARY GEAR.
Toyota Lexus it’s weaker but they’re not weak by any means
Ohhh stfu dumbass. Plenty of ppl with 2000-2002 tundras with tons of miles on em. I'm at 134,000 on my 01 tundra