Welding Mild Steel Sheet Metal | TIG Time
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- #welddotcom
This video was by special request from a viewer (arcstreams). He asked that we demonstrate some tips for welding mild steel sheet metal and some of the common pitfalls that welders encounter. The biggest thing to remember with welding thin gauge metal is to keep your travel speed quick, because it is easy to burn through.
One thing that we didn't account for in the making of this video was wind. We were filming in the welding garage at the Indy Motor Speedway and the garage door was open. Always remember to weld in an area where your shielding gas won't get blown away from your weld.
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I see a lot of comments about him warping the metal , you never weld a 6 in area at one time on sheet metal or body work on a car , he did the video to show you a technical point of welding not applying it.
There was only one pass on one side. We did not weld both sides of the material. What we did do was weld 2 separate work pieces (both only had one weld on them on the top side). We did this, because the first one we did we got some wind coming in.
2% Thoriated is my personal preference because of its arc characteristics, but Lanthanated is acceptable as well.
It is best to have no gap when butt welding sheet metal. But in my experience welding on various years makes and models of automobiles, doing custom sheet metal body modifications, it is best to do a series of tack welds or short stitch welds, in various areas. Welding in a series of small tacks or short stitch welds puts less heat into the panel. Doing your welds in various areas around the panel instead of one long bead, helps to evenly disperse the heat throughout the panel. Less heat, and even distribution help to keep the piece from distorting as much. In many automotive applications the pieces being welded have a lot of shape and can only be clamped together in certain ways. The less heat you put into the piece the less distortion you will have to hammer and dolly back in place.
Yup! been there...think you are doing great, but once you get to the end you realize you pushed a big wave to the end of the panel
MrArtisticPrecision Bondo the shit out of it!!!
Yeah on a car where most of the sheet metal welding happens, you do not have a fancy jig, a slight space between the edges/lap.
ZL1 JJBK m
Yes, 100% agreed AP. It appears the other commenters aren't comprehending ...or they simply choose to ignore your point. Putting in hundreds ...thousands of tacks ....is the only way to control distortion.
Mr. Tig: the gap is not your friend.
The gap: :(
Nice info, will be doing some sheet metal myself soon. Just need to make sure I buy the right Tig machine to get down the 30 amps and that filler rod, should be sweet
Arcstreams, This was done in one pass. We showed it twice, because the first time the garage door was open and there was a lot of wind. They were two separate work pieces.
"Sometimes you gat gap and you don't want it" - so much truth here
Great information
great Video!
My biggest take away from this vid is that I have way too much breeze in my workspace.
The sound for those engines in the background is fantastic!
I have a precision tig 275 and i repaired my sister inlaws glasses frame with it.
Mr TIG seems to need a refresher course on sheet metal.
Mr tig... the only welder on RUclips that is not full of themselves and explains the process too a tee.
mm almost if you weld a body pannel like this your gonna spend a day or a new body pannel to get rid of warpage to much heat
I'm still in practice mode, man I wish my welds would look that good🤨
I feel ya, currently enrolled at school for welding. Every little thing can mess you up until you get that steady dab hand
That didn’t look like a breeze, it looked like he hit his electrode with the filler rod. A breeze is a good cover up though.
No, he definitely did NOT touch the electrode. If he did, the filler rod would have immediately contaminated the electrode and left filler rod material on the electrode. Further proof of this is the fact that you can see the arc get "blown around" left and right when a breeze came in.
@@taxicamel I’m not so sure about that.
@@melgross Watch it again. You'll see the breeze blow that arc over toward him, then return, and then blow it back and forth between the sides. I saw the spark 5:28 but his filler was no closer to the electrode then than it had been throughout the video. It sparked again for the same reason at 5:47 when the gusts returned.
I'm new to sheet metal welding but it seems to me a guy could use a heat sink around the welds. Is that possible to stop warpage, like maybe a copper plate with copper tubing and water running through it? Just wondering.
I’m interested in that welding table. Can you do a video describing tables?
Furai333 try getting your torch positioned like your ready to weld then roll or drag your filler rod between tungsten and work piece to establish an arc
Or you can scratch start
2 things:
1. if you try to tig anything that thin and care at all about warping from heat, that will not work. The part will warp like crazy with that travel speed (which is right) but duration of weld. If you did not have that clamped down (and even having done so) the part warped. This will not work, for example if welding small boxes.
2. I commend you on being able to hold the electrode that close to the work and I know that is as it should be but I'll be damned if I can infer where the tip of the electrode is once an arc is started. I can't see it on my setup and I can't see it in the video-all I can do is hope I don't get too close and stick the tip. I wish I did not have this problem and would love to know if anyone else has figured out how to see how close tip is to work.
Thanks for the video
With the correct shade you can see it.
If you usually need glasses to read small print try a cheater lens in the hood.
Thank you so much for posting this! I've been playing with tigging sheet metal for the past few weeks and struggling. I started at 8-15Amps with varied success. Bumped up to 30amps and increased my argon flow as you mentioned, BAM! Working a treat now. I'm still struggling to get the tacks sorted as I have a scratch start machine and scratching on the gap/join fit up, blows holes. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
Can't you scratch on a thin piece of waste lying across the join?
Use copper plated filler sticks and scratch on them to start. That's how I started my Harbor Freight "purring tigger machine". Loved the sound that machine made.
actually i have welded the MS sheet coating of GI in tig. it will be proper way. what i did?
I notice that here in Canada, it is much easier to find 1.5% Lanthanated electrodes than others. I know 2% Lanthanated seems more popular in the US. Any difference?
Thoriated seems increasingly difficult to find, I think partly because it sets off homeland security radiation detectors when it reaches import borders.
Where did this guy go?
Could you guys make a video showing how to weld 1/4 inch steel? I'm currently going to learn how to tig and was wondering if you guys can help me out. Thanks!
+Jose Ramirez Anything in particular or just a butt joint?
At one point in the video you mentioned about the puddle bubbling. I was taught that when this happens you have to much heat or are not moving fast enough on the weld line, also to ad filler as quickly as possible when this happens to help cool the puddle as with to much heat you can make the metal become brittle. Your thoughts on this. Thank you
I'm sorry the demo is not welding sheet metal as he has a monster heat sink from the clamps.
Nice background "music" (racing).
I'm having a problem forming a puddle working with aluminum. I've clean it with acidtone and still can't get a puddle with sheet aluminum... my machine seems to push out way to many amp even at 10 amp, what am I doing wrong. Mr tig?
Aluminum has a harder outside oxidization than the inside. Give the surface a little grind to clear off the oxidization and to get to that soft center
Good
when u use low amp does that afect the weld
Yes he could turn it up and move faster and not have warped the part.
Mr, Tig, I have a snapon mm250sl muscle mig, of course I buy a lot of tools so my snapon guy gave me the Tig torch for free, I have no pedal and want to learn to Tig but this isn't exactly the easiest one to learn on but found no videos on it either on how to start and end, I'm guessing it's a scratch start but still having a hard time, first I couldn't get it to start, but finally I can establish a arch now but melt my tungsten so what video of yours can I watch to learn what I'm doing wrong, the tungsten's have red labels on the end of them and was told they are good and I am running 100 argon
Daniel Lavigne you need to run electrode negative, you probably need to switch polarity on your machine. I know this is nearly a year old hope you figured it out 😅
Was this recorded at a race track!? Lol 😂😂😂
Come on weld already. To hell with it off to see Jodi welding tips and tricks.
nice
I’m trying to butt weld a patch, .036 sheet steel in my trunk at 25-30 amps and it just keeps blowing through it’s so annoying
I liked that. Might I add that when you get no blow through, the flipping thing warps like a used hanky. Practice makes perfect.
Cheers.
basically, a series of spot welds as far apart as possible until it's filled in.
7:55. No gloves. Not gonna lie, when I weld stuff thinner than 16 Ga, I use driving gloves instead of welding gloves.
TIG gloves aren’t much thicker than driving gloves, are they? More expensive, too, I bet.
Heads up on that one mate. Can't even move or pick up a 0.045 or even a 1.6 with those gloves.
I usually do barehand as the amps are really low, but definitely considering your tip here now.
not a bad thought.
Cheers.
@@jockellis The seams on the fingertips are different. TIG glove for the torch, driving glove for the wire.
@@Dr_Xyzt Good idea.
nice welding,nice video production..... I'm spoiled, welding Sil-bronze for sculpture most of the time...my problem with steel is 1) the tip gets so cruddy so quick and 2) Blistering, I have a nice puddle, a good looking wetted join, and, BLURP, up from the depths there is a blister of black material that erupts, ruining the weld. I pool it again This doesn't happen with oxy actl or arc rod welding on same metal, only with TIG. If i use stainless filler rod, or hi carbon filler rod the problem goes away. This happens with brand NEW MILD STEEL FROM THE MILL, not old rusty scrap, seems to happen with lower carbon mild steel...any ideas of what i'm doing wrong?
I only use American or German made steel and tubing. That Chinese crap is just that....CRAP.! Most of the racing Karts I repair use this crap. Welding along, and BAM! it goes up like a Fizzy!
for all those looking. The filler is at the VERY VERY VERY end
Hey Guy! Is there some product or method that will allow me to see the place I'm suppose to be welding at like I could when I was young? It's a driving me bananas!!
+JD Wisdom Perhaps a cheater lens would help you out. www.weld.com/index.php/shop-weld-com/shop-weldcom/optical-cheater-lenses
I bought a "cheater lens", but it doesn't help. I'd turn down the darkness but that causes the flash to blind me and then I still end up welding somewhere other than where it's suppose to go. If there's something like a white pencil that produces a line to follow I think that could be seen. So the question is if there's such a product and it doesn't contaminate the weld?
Thank you so much JD
+JD Wisdom Have you tried a soapstone marker? It leaves a nice white mark but doesn't usually interfere with the weld.
Now why didn't I think of that? Tanks!
What kind of helmet do you have? I switched from a HF auto darkening to something a little nicer and it really made everything clearer.
Was he tigin' barehanded?
is heat affected zone like that fairly typical? my welds have been looking mostly like this and i was getting a bit discouraged. Is there a way to not get so much discoloration? or is that just how mild steel is?
No, he's travelling a bit slowly, often on thin sheet its better if you skip around a bit, I.E. weld short beads say one inch long with an inch gap between then come back and fill in the gaps. Jodie at Weldingtipsandtricks has some great videos on travel speed vs heat input and back stepping to avoid distortion. You should be able to get less heat affected zone and distortion, even without the massive fixture he's using. That type of fixture is typically used for test pieces on stainless, nickel alloys or titanium.
@@framavia2201 Thanks for the reply! Most of my practice on 16ga has resulted in something pringle-shaped and absolutely cooked.. i guess i gotta take breaks XD
Welimg thin sheet 16-18 guage backstep. So if you are welding a 6 inch weld from right to left weld the 2 inches on the left first. Then the next two inches ro the right if that. Since you are welding right to left it really helps with heat build up in the part.
And he's going a little slow. Time is what equals heat not amps. He should have turned the machine uo a couple of amps and then went faster. Too low of amperage puts more heat in the part because it takes longer to create the weld. More amps moving faster equals less heat. So the time it takes you to complete a weld is what equals how much heat is put into the part.
Watch the fabrication series, and welding tips and tricks .com both here on RUclips.
@@FreedomInc you are so correct on this....and yes, Justin and Jody really have some great information......cheers, Paul
@@FreedomInc To make it easier for people to remember... think about cooking a steak in a smoking hot skillet. The inside will still be rare, by the time you brown the outside. If your skillet isn't as hot, then the inside of the steak will be 'medium', by the time the outside is browned. And it will take *longer to brown. It's counter-intuitive to turn up the heat, to reduce the Heat Affected Zone... but you're browning that steak FASTER, as you say.
Let's do it with no backing?
Warp speed
What was the point of the tutorial if he warped the fire out of it?
Do you not have to back purge ? How come you get a good weld without back purge ?
It's not stainless.
@@DonHavjuan Thanks for clarifying. Michael
Its also a flick representative of mild steel sheet = Panel beating for cars. How can you possibly purge the backside of a panel??? beats me. SHS, CHS, you know steel sections - E.G. exhaust pipe - yeah Ok, waste your gas.
But stainless piping - go for it.
Is he at a race track?
+Brad Mamo (BradowsFilms) Yes. We are in the welding garage at the Indy 500 every year. During slow times in the day we will take that time to film some other videos.
Why didn't you get a marching band in the video as well !!!!
I have a question Mr Tig? When I tig or mig weld a sheet metal patch in an old car or truck, and then grind the weld so that I can dolly the patch smooth, I get real small pinholes that I can shine light through. Do you or anybody else know what could be the cause of the pinholes?
Kenneth Geelhaar porosity causes pin holes. make sure front and back are both clean then clean some more.
less talky.....more weldy, jeeezus
warped it. no good on a car.
Looked like shit
Just practice you'll get better!
In my opinion Wyatt's travel speed was far too low. In a real sheet metal application, sitting around saturating your part with heat will cause a nightmare of warpage. I'd aim for 10mm/second (roughly 2.5 seconds to an inch of travel).
Mmmm. that big old block was certainly acting as a heat sink backing bar. On a real vehicle, with nothing but air behind it, you'd be patching up holes after the first inch, but I could be wrong. I'm only qualified to do nuclear stuff where we used argon purges a lot. Why bother with a purge block unless you're using it to take away the heat or keep the sheet from warping, which is the whole point, to not have it warp. I'm with tack and stitch and allow to cool. Nice shop though. SFX of cars. Priceless.
Frank Reading I found this out the hard way. All I had was 3/32 filler wire. The wire was twice as thick as the sheet metal. The heat caused the sheet metal to sink in. That was a bad day
@@kenlane6655 I totally agree. The purge block being used in that way has no real world application that I can see. Can't imagine a more skewed example.
so yeah no that is so warped and not very good looking
need a mosquito trap
do not take it seriously
Shut the door i cant hear you
Ok try doing a car now, not a piece of metal bolted down perfectly. And you warped it
exactly. Talk about stacking the deck. Wonder how many jobs he runs into that he can run perfectly flat 4" X 8" butt welds clamped down to a purge block?
I’m sure autobody shops can afford a $9000 welder. No wonder this guy is not on weld.com anymore. Talk about overkill on a process
pleace lincoln i dont like it ,
That sounds like a pretty unorthodox way to weld sheet metal. The gaps would probably lead to a lot of distortion. I think Wyatt's mission is to make videos to help as many folks as possible. I don't think it would be worth the trouble to produce a video demonstrating a technique that is really not the best way to go about welding thin gauge materials.
lol
I don’t know why this guy always annoyed the shit out of me. Probably why they replaced him with the cool guy.
Well all this guy does is run beads on flat plate
where's your chancel were we can watch something more challenging?
audio sucks
Not worth watching if you want to weld really thin stuff.. If your welding thin car panels they won't be that thick, and secondaly who the hell can mount cat patches in a heat sink setup like that. Be more practical dude try .020" or 0.5mm thick car panels welded "on air" i.e. in situ without being able to squeeze a heatsink in behind.
Beginners mistake you'll get better!
I usually enjoy your videos but whoever thought filming one that competes with 10,000rpm engines, should be fired. Very annoying, distracting, and even made it difficult to hear what was being said at times. Please don’t do that again or you’re gonna lose viewers. 👍
Too much heat