Those main bolts work great, we used them in Jason's 446 after we had that (luckily non-destructive) #4 main babbit wipeout upon freshening (repeated 175hp and occasional 225?hp nitrous shots and burning one piston!). Mains mic'd perfectly after swapping the stock bolts for the ARPs! Held up to a consistent 225-250hp until he jerked the whole shebang for a 512 RB.
Hey Joe!!! I, along with so many others, ENJOY watching these build videos you do: you’re very thorough. I hope to build something one day (I’m 65, but still turning wrenches lol). Keep up the good work: are you gonna dyno this engine?
Looks like it spins rather nicely, almost effortless. Can't wait you see you button it up w little more than that when you get time. That is the Issue that plagues us today. As always great job. P. S., Have you ever bolted everything on the crank and put a beam or digital torque wrench on it and checked the break away force and how much ft. lbs it takes to spin your crankshaft around a couple of revolutions after it breaks free and spins. I have seen old timers and John Kasee's friend Keith Dorton I believe on a couple of motors and he even has specs for what it should be between to get it broken loose and spinning it around 2 to 3 revolutions to ensure that is just right and something is not binding, too tight, or just flat out wrong with the bottom rotateing
This is amazing info. Everything Ive wanted to know about these kits pretty much. Except the costs. Would it be out of line to get a relatively detailed list?
Thanks brother! I may can video a price breakdown of everything. The stroker kits are $2699 with everything included, in 440 source. I need to ask the owner if he wants all the prices of the parts added up and posted online. His wife may be watching it with him 🤫😅
Very nice video Joe and I like your approach to this build. A roller cam is a great choice for the RB. I was going to ask you what your 50/50 Lucas assembly lube/oil is? I would like to mix up a batch for my shop. BTW, pretty nice shirt for engine assembly! Lol😊
Thank you for asking! I didn’t include it here, because I did it in full detail in a different video. Check this video out around 17 minutes: ruclips.net/video/5GwXCoee2Ro/видео.html
Have you ever used the oil galley drill bit from 440 Source? I know they say that it will help with oiling the mains, but I'm just curious if you has done that. I really enjoy watching your videos!!!!
When cleaning and recleaning the block after returning from the machine shop, what cleaner/solvent do you use? Possible to get a little clip in the future of the cleaning procedure?
Thanks for asking. I have a video showing how Ed at Ed’s machine showed how he cleans blocks when he’s finished with them. This block was machined somewhere else, so I used most of his techniques. I’ll get you a video link.
Yeah, I have a set of them pistons, but I bought the 23 cc dished ones, way to much compression loss for me, I should have got the 17 cc ones. I'm gonna stick with my flat tops, I'll be at 11.8 to 1, but the cam I have has an advertised intake closing of 72 degrees, you comp should be similar, which is why your milling all your parts to get That cylinder pressure up...my elevation is 3400 in the California high desert, and I should be 170 psi cranking up here..so 91 pump should be fine. What is your elevation in Arkansas?
Elevation is 223’ at my track. I would have flat tops if I ever build one for my racecar. This should work well with the conservative cam choice. Thanks for sharing!
@@JustMoparJoe I'd be interested to know what your cranking cylinder pressure is when it's all done and broken in....my calculations show 160 psi...assuming that cam has similar closing timing as mine. I'm using the TF cam which has similar timing at .050...but Comp doesn't publish the numbers I need to calculate properly...at that altitude, my 496 would be around 186 psi, which should still be able to run on pump
Finally...I'm ready to hear it run!!!
You and me both! Thanks for the help!
Nice job like always Joe, I like the way you pay attention to detail!
Thanks, Walter!
Those main bolts work great, we used them in Jason's 446 after we had that (luckily non-destructive) #4 main babbit wipeout upon freshening (repeated 175hp and occasional 225?hp nitrous shots and burning one piston!). Mains mic'd perfectly after swapping the stock bolts for the ARPs! Held up to a consistent 225-250hp until he jerked the whole shebang for a 512 RB.
Thanks Rod
She's looking shiny 😂 coming together great, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thanks Donald!
That's gonna be a bad ass engine.
Thanks brother. Owner is going to hurt some tires in his D100!
Looks good Joe.
Rod clearance looks great.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Ed! I appreciate the support
Another great video Joe
Thanks brother. Should be a nice mannered street monster
Excellent as usual!!
Keep them Coming
Thanks Andy! Going to keep pushing. Been on out ramcharger today
Top notch as always... Thanks Joe
Thanks for watching, buddy!
Very nice.
Thank you Jaybo
It's going to be a beast with EZ heads !
Absolutely! Air in and out with big cubes and nice headflow.
You are making me jealous!!
Haha! Thanks John!
I have that exact same camshaft! It's been 11.60s in a 505 stroker in my friends super bee.
Excellent! Thank you for sharing!
Looks great!
Thank you, Tim!
Nice technica great just nice day.
De Nada
I think tightening the rear cap first is to compress the crank seal before tightening the other caps. Nice work Joe.
Great point! Thank you, Garry!
Very nice, Joe!! I might have to recruit you to build my next engine!! ;)
Thank you, Steve! I know I’ve improved a lot since the old 360 build
Hey Joe!!! I, along with so many others, ENJOY watching these build videos you do: you’re very thorough. I hope to build something one day (I’m 65, but still turning wrenches lol). Keep up the good work: are you gonna dyno this engine?
Awesome, thank you! This one is for a friend. I would love to see how it does on a dyno. Not sure of it yet.
I've always tightened from the center out too just like the heads I don't think it's ever made any difference. Nice video good-looking engine
Thanks Shane. I’m ready to hear this one roar!
That’s just like I’d do it, if I was to do it, but I won’t, cuz I don’t do that😁😁
Thanks Billy. Be careful out there!
Looks like it spins rather nicely, almost effortless. Can't wait you see you button it up w little more than that when you get time. That is the Issue that plagues us today. As always great job. P. S., Have you ever bolted everything on the crank and put a beam or digital torque wrench on it and checked the break away force and how much ft. lbs it takes to spin your crankshaft around a couple of revolutions after it breaks free and spins. I have seen old timers and John Kasee's friend Keith Dorton I believe on a couple of motors and he even has specs for what it should be between to get it broken loose and spinning it around 2 to 3 revolutions to ensure that is just right and something is not binding, too tight, or just flat out wrong with the bottom rotateing
Thanks John. I can check this one with my old beam style torque wrench
There’s a one price rear main seal for big block Mopar now
Yes sir
This is amazing info. Everything Ive wanted to know about these kits pretty much. Except the costs. Would it be out of line to get a relatively detailed list?
Thanks brother! I may can video a price breakdown of everything. The stroker kits are $2699 with everything included, in 440 source. I need to ask the owner if he wants all the prices of the parts added up and posted online. His wife may be watching it with him 🤫😅
Very nice video Joe and I like your approach to this build. A roller cam is a great choice for the RB. I was going to ask you what your 50/50 Lucas assembly lube/oil is? I would like to mix up a batch for my shop. BTW, pretty nice shirt for engine assembly! Lol😊
Thanks Mike. This is Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer and 10w30 diesel engine oil. It’s handy for a lot!
Why don't you show the installation of the rear main seal? A lot of people would like to see your way of installing it.
Thank you for asking! I didn’t include it here, because I did it in full detail in a different video. Check this video out around 17 minutes: ruclips.net/video/5GwXCoee2Ro/видео.html
Have you ever used the oil galley drill bit from 440 Source? I know they say that it will help with oiling the mains, but I'm just curious if you has done that. I really enjoy watching your videos!!!!
Thanks brother. I actually bought one recently. I will try it out on the next race stroker.
@@JustMoparJoe, right on!
When cleaning and recleaning the block after returning from the machine shop, what cleaner/solvent do you use? Possible to get a little clip in the future of the cleaning procedure?
Thanks for asking. I have a video showing how Ed at Ed’s machine showed how he cleans blocks when he’s finished with them. This block was machined somewhere else, so I used most of his techniques. I’ll get you a video link.
ruclips.net/video/rnTKqAiwsVE/видео.html
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks! As always, very informative. Keep making these video!
Yeah, I have a set of them pistons, but I bought the 23 cc dished ones, way to much compression loss for me, I should have got the 17 cc ones. I'm gonna stick with my flat tops, I'll be at 11.8 to 1, but the cam I have has an advertised intake closing of 72 degrees, you comp should be similar, which is why your milling all your parts to get That cylinder pressure up...my elevation is 3400 in the California high desert, and I should be 170 psi cranking up here..so 91 pump should be fine.
What is your elevation in Arkansas?
Elevation is 223’ at my track. I would have flat tops if I ever build one for my racecar. This should work well with the conservative cam choice. Thanks for sharing!
@@JustMoparJoe I'd be interested to know what your cranking cylinder pressure is when it's all done and broken in....my calculations show 160 psi...assuming that cam has similar closing timing as mine. I'm using the TF cam which has similar timing at .050...but Comp doesn't publish the numbers I need to calculate properly...at that altitude, my 496 would be around 186 psi, which should still be able to run on pump
😁👍🇨🇦
Yes sir