What oil should you put in a rock saw?
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- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2023
- I think these tests show undoubtedly what the best oil is to put in your rock saw.
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Very informative and educational, the internet is loaded with bad advice. Videos like this are important. Just because you were taught how to do something a certain way doesn't mean that it's correct or the best way to do things! Keep making videos like this.
You Sir are a scientist 🧐
Ha! I'm just a guy that likes rocks.
It's nice having a visual comparison between the oils. Thank you for making this!
I'm glad you liked it.
I’m rebuilding my slab saw and had no idea what to put in it when it was finished. Perfect video. Thanks.
Thanks man, just got a small feed saw and needed to get some oil. Wasnt sure what I needed
Super interesting! I use food-grade mineral oil in my slab saws (not laxative, but used for oiling wood, bought from Amazon). (haha, running normal mineral oil for 100 years)... I just looked at the listing, and it doesn't say whether it's 70 NF or something else. I'll look into it! Thanks for the awesome video, Jared.
If you have normal food grade mineral oil in your saw and been cutting with it, what would you say the finish is like coming off of your saw and how mucky is the oil? I know these are rather subjective things but I just would like hear your thoughts on it.
Knowledge for future me, thanks. I didn't think about the oil clearing debris from the blade, I only thought about its capabilities to disperse the heat, or lower evaporation rate. So I'm guess by letting the particulates to drop out faster also reduces scoring on the faces? Thanks for keeping it simple enough for this old guy to ponder.
It is my assumption that letting the particulates dropping out both helps keep the oil clean as well as reduces scoring on the cuts but its really hard to test as well without draining my saw, filling it with the other oil and cutting some to see which is something I really don't want to do.
Still trying to figure this out since so many sellers don't tell you what the viscosity is.
As far as I can figure it, both of the oils you showed were "70 NF". The NF means pharmaceutical grade (ie very clean) and the 70 is just the distillation portion/process of crude oil that qualifies as "white mineral oil". But clearly things labeled as white mineral oil still have different viscosity ranges. So I'm still quite lost.
E: Contacted Highland Park and their Cool Cut oil is "Viscosity :
That was very informative. Thanks, Jared.
I’ve only been cutting for a year. I use light mineral oil for horses that I order from a veterinary supply company, and it works fine for me. But it’s much lighter/thinner that what you can buy at walmart. I haven’t ever seen the oil from tractor supply or other farm stores to know if that is different.
Thanks for the info - thanks!
This was an educational experience. Thank you!
Love all your vids by the way. Good job! Hope RUclips's change of compensation doesn't hit you too hard
Thank you.
It has hit me massively hard. Without Patreon I would have to stop making videos.
Great information. Yes, I love a great investigation.
Great information - thanks!!
I'm glad you liked it.
Fantastic video! Thank you for covering it so well.
Very interesting! Thanks for sharing!
I came by 8 gallons of Mineral Oil Light for lubricating horses. It seemed a bit thick to me so I diluted it with baby oil to get a thinner consistency. So far...so good.
I have to say it. I switched to mineral oil a number of years ago. Your reasons are all valid as well. When I bought my used 20" saw, they had run diesel in it. Did you know diesel will absorb moisture out of the air? They didn't. As a result, the oil absorbed so much moisture it overflowed and leaked diesel fuel all over their area. Fortunately, it was emptied before I purchased it. All I had to do was clean out about three inches of caked on mud before I could use it. Another informative video. Thanks Jared.
I completely forgot about diesel absorbing moisture out of the air when exposed.
Great info. I been using straight water in my tile saw so maybe I can try a little oil.😊
I don't know if putting oil in a tile saw will help much for cutting and it will likely make a mess I would assume.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding lol well it’s a small saw with a tray at the bottom I’m talking about a few drops not straight oil
Awesome video!! I need to get oil for the used saws I bought. I am going to do like you recommend and get the good stuff! Thank you for making these videos. Your videos have answered so many of my rock hounding and lapidary questions. 👍😎
I'm glad you liked it.
Yet another great video, thank you!
I'm glad you liked it.
Thank you so much for this video; it could not have been better timed. Just finished cleaning up an old LST-12 that had been sitting for years (still filled with oil) in someone's garage. Was trying to go back through your videos last night to try and find the one where I remembered you mentioning what kind of oil you used.
I'm glad you found it to be helpful.
Very cool and good to know. I want to pick up a slab saw.
Thanks!
Oh my gosh thank you so much! :)
When your feeling really energetic, fill your saw with the veterinary junk and cut a few slabs to show people how fast it sludges up. That sludge does nothing but carry blade/saw damaging heat. After you clean it out, you can show people the comparison with the lighter grade mineral oil.
I believe it but I don't know if I will be doing that with my saw anytime soon.
good vid mang
Interesting differences between machinist oil for drilling metals and rock cutting blade oil for rock slabes
Thanks good info
I'm glad you liked it.
The main reason the slab saw cuts smoother is because the feed mechanism is much more precise than hand feeding a rock and the feed speed is much slower. Oil itself does not create a smoother cut than water, it's just that no one runs water in their slab saws.
Problem I've had in the past with the oilier cutting fluids is if the rock is a bit porous it's hard to get it to evaporate out. I've had it leach out when you get to the polishing stage and cause problems.
Also have had it cause discoloration on some material. Works fine on non porous stuff. I can't use water based coolants in my old saws.
Didn't you say in another comment that you run kerosene in your saw? That could be one of your issues when ti come to things discoloring.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding Generally I don't get discoloration with the kerosene, as it evaporates, whereas with ones like Rockhound Oil, it tends to stay in the stone. With non porous materials like agate, yes, the oil is likely beter. I agree the oilier ones give longer blade life, but it's a trade off. I can get kerosene a lot cheaper, and still get several years out of a blade.
One way I've found to help keep coolant out of porous rocks regardless of what type you use, is to soak them in water for a few hours before you cut.
@@JFSmith-nb8hf What porous rocks are you cutting?
@@CurrentlyRockhounding Nothing currently, but in the past I've had the problem with some types of onyx, and travertine. Some fine grain sandstone, and had some problem with some blue and white soapstone from the Barstow Ca. area once. I ruined a piece of un stabilized turquoise once. Learned that lesson quick, now I clean out my 6" saw and fill it with water. As soon as I'm done I drain the water, dry it out good, and put the oil back in before anything can rust.
I wonder if the saw marks on the hand-cut one are because it isn't going through at a smooth rate. I'll have to try it on my autofeed trim saw - although that uses oil too.
I think its a combination of things, hand holding will produce uneven cuts, using water will not clear out the kerf of the cut as well as water and cutting by hand will often mean more pressure being applied to the rock being cut.
I would love to see a side by side of something cut on your trimsaw by hand and then the next cut done with autofeed.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding Good idea!
I have been using Canola oil for years
How smooth are your cuts with it?
Wouldn't you have to change it regularly?
I use Kingsley lubricool. When I clean my saw I recycle my oil through a paper grocery bag.
Can use coffee filters as well
@@turnerg I use 2 five gallon buckets. One has holes drilled in the bottom in which the paper bag is placed. It is suspended over the other bucket and filled with dirty oil and sludge from my 18 inch saw. Bottom bucket collects clean, reusable oil.
I also do that with a grocery bag.
I have been looking for information about venting a rock saw,and recovering the oil in a type of retort chamber.I have a 14 inch that I haven't used yet,because of this issue.It is right next to the house,so I don't want the mess to get all over the house.
If you are running NF 70 mineral oil in your saw, there is no need to vent it. Also why do you think you need a retort chamber for it?
glycerin and water works good for me
It’s just not worth the nickel per slab savings…buy the good lapidary oil!…
Even better…get a everclean centrifuge from highland park…you will never have to muck out a slab saw again!!!…they are a lil finicky but once setup correctly, it’s the cat meow!!!
Thanks for the vid!
I really like the idea of the centrifuge to clean a saw, first I should build a new saw, something bigger than a 14". Really what I want to have is a 24" drop saw as I really prefer cutting big things in half more than slabs.
Yeah... So your saying maybe that used fried chicken oil isn't the best? People here are proud bargain hunters LOL. Yeah my lace agate smells like fried chicken. Excellent video though Jared the viscosity test definitely illustrates the point.
I'm not sure used cooking oil will be the best but if you make a video testing that out I will 100% watch it! :D
Bacon!
Found this at the right time. What do you think about the Highland Park 16" slab saw? I'm going to buy a saw within a couple months and so far I like this one.
The machines that HP makes are far from perfect, but when it comes to buying something new, they are just about the only company you buy a large saw from.
I only have my homemade 14" and if I had the money to buy a new saw I would likely go with an HP saw.
Jared - off subject but I would like to know about your apron. I have neck problems and any pressure on it eventually causes discomfort.
I'm right there with you. I really like this one and its call the Lapidarist Shop Apron and you can buy it from Kingsley North for $40 and its 100% worth it!
Do you use an exhaust fan when cutting indoors? I am wondering about exposure to vapor mist as an inhalant. The saws I use have hoods, but obviously I lift the hood to remove the cut rocks. And my trim saw does not have a hood. Thanks for all your information.
I have my saw next to the shop door which helps a lot with it.
Other people that I know just give their saws a little bit of time after cutting for the mist to settle but a hood would be really nice if you have the space for it.
how do you filter mineral oil? coffee filters?
I use brown paper shopping bags like coffee filters and just let the oil pass through.
Do you mind sharing where you get yours in the Spokane area? Been looking for a good source, but cheapest I'm finding is like $35/gallon which feels a bit painful. Thanks!
Pacific Petroleum & Supply use to sell it but it might be worth calling them. Also Irv's use to sell it.
I have been filtering and recycling mine for a long time now.
Much appreciated.@@CurrentlyRockhounding
You made a few valid points, but there are some things that are misstated. First you are correct in stating that White 70NF mineral oil is one of the best cooling agents for larger rock saws on the market. You then went on and described how the suppliers get it, rebrand it and re-sell it. For the users out there, White 70NF mineral oil is called two different things in the market. It is called “food grade mineral oil” as well as being called “light mineral oil.” Your description of if its uses in rock cutting is very well. Yes, 70NF is not needed in trim saws, water is an acceptable cooling agent in those, not because the trim saws are made of materials that do not rust, rather a trim saw is a light duty saw that does not generate nearly the amount of friction which generates heat. So, the issue of rusting the equipment is not a correct reason not to be using 70NF in a trim saw. Rust on a blade in a trim saw is another issue, but not to be addressed here. With the trim saw, less friction equals less heat. Also, short duty cycles of the trim results in less heat. You then presented the Equate brand of Mineral oil (this is the same as nearly all store-bought and farm-store mineral oils). What you failed to discuss was that this mineral oil is a heavy mineral oil, this is a much higher viscosity oil, much thicker than the light mineral oil or 70NF. This is the primary difference between the two. Then you went on and compared the cut you made with your slab saw and compared to a rock cut on a 10” tile saw. First the cut on your saw shows that it is a very well-tuned saw. But why would you show a cut from your saw and compare that to a 10” tile saw? That is like comparing a Peterbilt to a Ram pickup. That section made no sense because there was no connection made. Proper comparison would be showing your setup of your saw and comparing it to the cut of a saw that used heavy mineral oil, kerosene, or diesel. That would have been a valid comparison, especially if you had a heat gun to compare the heat of the saw blades immediately after cutting. Note, any well-tuned saw, can produce a finish like you have shown on your cut sample, however, once too much heat gets into a blade, that blade can slightly warp causing issues with the finish of the cut surface. Your video has some factual aspects to it, but there were a few misleading points and confusing points in it. The end result is any Mineral Oil labeled as 70NF, Food Grade or Light all will work perfectly well in lapidary saws. Heavy Mineral oil will work, but due to it being so much thicker may not cool the saw blade as well under heavy continuous loads like 70NF will. The information you provided does allow the users of saws to now be able to find better sources of cutting oil than being over charged through many of the Lapidary shops, and a much lower risk of burning their shop down. Final note, interesting how my primary account here is blocked.
I'm not really sure what to make of this giant comment you left here as there's a lot to unpack in it but Ill do my best to address all of your points here.
I'm rather happy with the video and the comparisons I made.
First off lets be clear here 70NF is a light weight low viscosity mineral oil which is often called "light mineral oil" vs thicker food grade or farm store mineral oil.
"What you failed to discuss was that this mineral oil is a heavy mineral oil, this is a much higher viscosity oil, much thicker than the light mineral oil or 70NF. " I showed that very clearly in this video and talked about one being thicker than the other.
"First the cut on your saw shows that it is a very well-tuned saw. But why would you show a cut from your saw and compare that to a 10” tile saw?" I did this to show the difference between an autofeed oil saw and a hand cut rock using water, you get very different results.
"Proper comparison would be showing your setup of your saw and comparing it to the cut of a saw that used heavy mineral oil, kerosene, or diesel." feel free to go do that and upload a video of it.
"The end result is any Mineral Oil labeled as 70NF, Food Grade or Light all will work perfectly well in lapidary saws." I disagree and showed how and why they are different.
"Final note, interesting how my primary account here is blocked." if I banned an account you have its because you likely said something rude, misleading, or political in a comment. Those kinds of comments and accounts get banned here.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding Again Food Grade Mineral Oil and 70NF mineral oil IS the same. Here are multiple examples::
Velona Food Grade Mineral Oil 70 Viscosity NF USP Grade - 64 oz | for Cutting Boards, Countertops and Butcher Blocks, Stainless Steel, Knife, Tool, Machine, and Equipment | Made in The USA. About this item: Mineral Oil 70: 100% Pure and Natural Carrier Oil. Lubricant Pure. Not Diluted, Non-GMO, No Additives, No Fragrance, Chemical Free, Alcohol Free.
Another Example: Mineral Oil 70 vis, NF Formulary Grade CAS: 8042-47-5 Clear Water White viscous Liquid Mineral Oil 70 Viscosity NF Grade / Formulating Grade. Description: White Mineral Oil 70 Viscosity is an odorless, tasteless, colorless white mineral oil. White Mineral Oil can be used in many applications - including:
Personal care ointments
Lotions
Oils
Creams
Hair preparations
Make-up
Make up removers
Veterinary ointments
Creams
Textile manufacturing
Other specialty industries.
Industries:
Food
Personal Care
Pet Care
Mineral Oil 70 Food Grade, Light NF Grade - 1 gallon (128 oz.) www.walmart.com/ip/Mineral-Oil-70-Food-Grade-Light-NF-Grade-1-gallon-128-oz/602752415
Clarion® Food Grade White Mineral Oil 70 www.clarionlubricants.com/Product.do?code=633507009
Description:
Clarion Food Grade White Mineral Oil meets the requirements set forth in the U.S. FDA regulations 21 CFR 172.878 for contact with food for human consumption, and 21 CFR 178.3620 (a) for use as a component of nonfood articles intended for use in contact with food for human consumption, and is certified as Kosher with the Union of Orthodox Jewish Congregations of America and certified as halal under the supervision of the Islamic Food and Nutrition Council of America with the Islam. This product meets the current standards of the National Formulary (NF) or US Pharmacopeia (USP), and is registered as 3H and H1 lubricants for direct and incidental food contact by NSF, for use in food plants under the jurisdiction of the USDA.
So, Food Grade Mineral oil is the same ad 70NF. the user has to read the label to make sure they know what they are getting.
Again, as for your video, you never mentioned the word Heavy mineral oil which was the Walmart brand.
Again, I will stand by my words, why would you compare a tile saw (which was never designed for detailed lapidary work) to an auto feed lapidary slab saw and try to show that water vs 70NF is the difference in the cut quality? You are the one who brought up the comparison of 70NF to the other oils types, but you never shown the quality of the cuts of the other oil types. You only shown a small portion of this argument on what is the best lubricant to use, you walked through the open door that is a pretty hot topic among many lapidary craftsman, but you never did anything to prove your point other than showing one oil is thicker than the other and showing two rocks using different technologies to cut them. Why did you not fully address address the real reason for proper lubrication, Heat and the damage heat can cause a blade. I am sure you have a ruined blade somewhere or knows someone who has one that you can show what an over heated blade looked like and show the warping that can occur. I have watched your videos for years and really never commented on anything. I am not trying to bash you or anything, I am just having you realize you made a few misstatements and made a very poor comparison and failed to bring out the real reason why quality oils such as a White 70NF Mineral Oil is so very important to protect the user's equipment and aid in quality cuts. Another thing you could have brought up was the smell and easy of cleanup (if you did mention that then I missed that portion). The smell and ease of cleanup is a very good convincing argument as why not to use many of the other well known oils. 70NF is by far the easiest to clean and with no odor, one does not smell like that Peterbilt that I previously referenced. This video really could use a follow up video or a few videos diving into these details further, it would be good content that would get you a lot of views. As for me making my own, I am an entertainer with RUclips, not a factual presenter. I show my ways of doing things for entertainment purposes only, never trying to be the voice of the lapidary craft since I am told multiple times that my processes are all wrong despite putting out quality material.
Mr low budget tile saw guy here.
Can you use a little oil in the tile saw to help?
I think you could but it would make a mess I think as most tile saws get water all over the place.
@CurrentlyRockhounding had to sell my last tile say because it was a draw type...great for no mess but the standard one will probably fling water or oil everywhere
The oil does not change the shine of the rock
It does when coming off of the saw which does impact how much work you are putting in to that polish depending on what you're doing.
whale oil of course.
Ha!
That is just Mil-L-23699 jet turbine oil... used to service the Whale 🐋 (A-3 Skywarrior) with it everyday.
Never tried as a rock cutting fluid 🤔
Snake oil gets the job done 👍…Hit me up, I know a great salesman!!
Sounds pricey.
I’m rebuilding my slab saw and had no idea what to put in it when it was finished. Perfect video. Thanks.
I'm glad you liked it!