*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
Just found this video 10 years later and the info is still good. I noticed that you are missing the handle. I replaced mine years ago with one-off of a cardboard box that a Christmas tree came in.
Your video is one of the best when it comes to going over all parts of testing including where to place probes on meter. Going over each step doesn't take that much extra time, your having to do it anyway so including it is a true instructional videos. Majority of people don't include most of the steps and that is why people look for help when they don't know and probably trying to learn because this isn't something they do often or ever have done. I assume others who skip all this think everyone is a electric specialist? If they are it's scary to think they need help. I wish you had a camera that allows you to work without holding camera/phone. This is the only issue because a lot of footage you can not see what your testing. Thanks for doing this and taking the time to help others.
This is my exact (rusty) charger AND my exact problem! Thanks. Working fine and I've sourced the circuit breaker. Great video. I can see why some people suggest bypassing the switch and CB. Pretty junky stuff. CB Part No. 246-392 12V 35A
Looked for the "by-pass" video and can't find it. Saw other comments here asking the same. I need a constant 12VDC/10amp supply to power my de-rust electrolysis rig. The auto circuitry in my charger keeps shutting me down after a while. I don't think the shut down is due to the thermal breaker, but I stumbled onto your vid in my search for answers to defeat/by-pass the auto circuitry. Thanks
The thermal relay CAN be repaird by filling the damaged contact with silver bearing solder. My Dad worked for the Telephone company, and that is what he used to do when a relay contact got burned and there were no replacements. Worked pretty well and lasted until it was finally replaced. You could use regular 60/40 lead/tin solder, but it didn't last long. I used the silver solder to repair old telegraph key contects, and then buff them down with relay files for a permanent fix. I have a Continental telegraph bug that had corroded contacts that I fixed that way, and it still works today 40 years later. Relay contact pitting comes from switching high current loads that arcing contacts cause. Just be sure to either use a burnishing file or jewlers file or a bronze brush to clean the contacts before soldering with 10% silver bearing solder. Use a lot of rosin flux before adding the solder to keep the solder on the contacts. Then burnish the contacts with very fine emory cloth or a burnishing file. This is the same as cleaning the old ignition points in a car or truck. Mustie1 (here on RUclips) has many fine videos on how to do this. Good Luck!
Thank you for the info. Its little bits of info like this that really add up to being a well rounded DIY kind of individual. Good skills to have, thats for sure.
another problem is the switches wear out. You can carefully bend the top tangs of the metal switch case out with fine needle nose pliers. Push the metal case down a bit, that way you don't have to bend the bottom tangs. This allows repairing the switch with out desoldering. After you pull the black plastic toggle out, you can use a fine pick or razor blade to remove the copper contacts strips and rebend them to restore their contact. I think the start/charge switch just bypass the board and directly connects the transformer output to the cables (bypasses the mosfet).
My overload protector was in a two piece plastic housing, so had to break the glue joints to disassemble it. Filed contacts flat and square. Worked for a little bit, but then back to the wimp snapping! I'm ready to bypass the breaker! It'll work, or die! I need a new charger anyway. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you for this video. Showing me the inside of my charger was in perfect working condition .I found out that my alligator clamps were the culprit. Clean them up with vinegar and was able to spark two clamps together.
Very well explained and very helpful I am working on a battery charger from Harbor Freight looking to see what's wrong one side of it the needles are not worth the needle is not working keep up the good work
Can you do a video about how to convert a smart or automatic battery charger to manual operation only? The harbor freight 200amp or schumacher 200 amp sold at walmart for instance
I have a Century charger Model 87151 with a blown circuit board and I'm waiting for the video you promised on how to bypass the circuit board to get the charger working (in manual mode). You said this video was coming in your June 2, 2012 video for the Thermal Breaker fix.,,,!!!
VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! On those chargers - leave unplugged and connect Batt FIRST!!!!!!! If it throws a spark, you just save your house from burning down (bad diodes) and 12VAC. Those CAN AND WILL BURN when connected to 12VDC and unplugged from 120VAC. NEVER EVER leave a trickle charger unattended. The big ones on wheels like to burn too.
Yep, my sister's house burned down. Her husband had been routinely charging his electric bicycle battery at night, on the basement work bench. Innocent enough, right? I don't leave any kind of juice on at night. Seen too many neighbors of mine go up in flames while asleep because they left power going to their entertainment center, even though everything was turned off.
thanks for the informative video.I'll try to test my charger with 75 amps start,I used it only once during the ice storm and now doesn't spark & charge anymore.
Thanks. Great video. I have a VMAXtanks 7A 7 stage charger. All the lights on the front do not work including the power on light. When I test the voltage at the clips my meter reads 10A. It is attached to my sump 120 ah battery. Any ideas or should I just toss it? I think it was working up until recently as my back up sump went off when the circuit to the main sump blew without my knowing. Thanks.
I am not familiar with the VMAXtanks 7A 7 stage charger, so I did a Web search and found a picture. When you say that you measured the voltage, you got 10A? That would be 10 amps, which is not a voltage, and the charger does not have a10 amp light. Did you mean 10 volts? The VMAXtanks 7A 7 stage charger is quite a different charger than what is shown here. It uses electronic sophistication to generate its charging voltage rather than a heavy transformer like the charger here. For the most basic test of your charger, you would need a voltmeter, and you should connect the charger to your sump battery to be able to measure the charger's voltage while charging. If the charger is not working and is out of warranty, it would take electronics expertise and equipment to diagnose and repair the unit. You would be better off to buy a new charger.
Lite rust inside electronic equipment is inevitable due to condensation. It's important to know the difference between condensation damage and rain damage. This can be tricky if you are dealing with very small components with the potential to pool water. It's a hard thing to minimise condensation and ventilation issues with the need to avoid material fire hazards inside cabinets and minimise the possibility of insect or rodent damage. If you are thinking of adding a water resistant hack to equipment, choose PVC plastics. PVC remains the conventional flame resistant non conductive material for electrical applications because it is extremely difficult to catch alight and resists smouldering scenarios. PVC is the first line of defence against the EARLY stages of an electrical fire. BUT in a well establish fire, it's just another lump of solid gasoline.
Thanks for the great video. I have the same charger with a bad sector switch that gives you the option for 2 amp 10 amp or 55. Is it possible to hard wire it to just 10 amps only and if so can you post it? I also heard you mention with this charger you could also do away with the motherboard that would be fine as well as I would be just be using it to desulfate batteries which needs to be checked often. I live off grid and battery desulfation is important, thanks Larry
When checking the lower power side of the transformer, that should still be AC correct? I get nothing on that side of my transformer but the 120 side is fine. I get 0 at the battery clips also.
How do you check that? Do you plug in the charger and then check? And where do you put the test leads? Sorry, I am such a beginner on using the tester..... Are you actually checking the voltages (ie the charger plugged in), or only continuity? Thx PS, I am not even getting a hum, though I did verify that the 120 AC is getting to the transformer
hi everyone ,if anyone else trying to find out reconditioning lead acid battery try Battery Recovery Tactics ( battery.RecoveryTactics.com ) ? Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my friend got great results with it.
Excelent video, but obviously could be shot better: lighting and focus. The RUclips DIY community should build on this video as a script. Credit to the original creator for his general attitude and care. I really like the fact that this vidio retains all the minor errors that are inevitable when exploring old technology. It not easy to do! If only all power supply equipment had the AC elements on one side of the transformer and the safer DC stuff on the other side!
I don't think the Pronto M91's small onboard charger can be taken apart like in your video. I just bought a used Pronto M91 R SureStep Electric Wheelchair from a thrift store for my Dad. It had been there for a while and it's batteries were dead. When I would plug in the on board charger, it would not charge but instead flash Red indicating defective..... What I found is that the expensive batteries were still good, but that the onboard charger will not recharge the batteries if they are too discharged-low voltage state. What brought the batteries back to life was, I removed the seat and covers to the batteries. I disconnected the two battery quick release connectors cables. I connected an 10 amp automotive battery charger (use the deep cycle battery setting if it has one) each battery separately, for equal times(say 3 hours) BUT Not to a full charge-(Automotive battery chargers full charge to a higher voltage than what gel batteries tolerate). I then reconnected the batteries together and plugged in the onboard charger which now showed the yellow-charging mode and let charge overnight. The batteries are now full and seem fine. Hope this helps!
That's my situation as well. Things look dusty, a couple cobwebs, but no burnt look or smell. I really need a tutorial that explains what each part is supposed to do, and how to bench test it. This video would be really good, if we could see where he's putting the test leads, and which wires he's disconnecting..... :-(
sir i got a new dpi 48vote CHAGER but it has the wrong CORD.was going to change it out but the new one has three wires black white red my old one has two black white.what do I do.PLEASE help.
Dude I have a newer one than that I had a wirea yellow wire that goes from the transmitter to the switch top loose on a newer model and I'm not getting no power and I don't know which terminal to
Any other tips? I took my thermal switch out, (which is riveted shut) and it has connection when I test it on the meter, so I have a different issue. It's a peak charger. I get very low voltage (less than 2v at the alligator clamps) on the 6V and 12V switch settings , except when I turn on the engine start switch, then I get 12.8v.
I found that the MOSFET M1 on my circuit board is burnt beyond being able to read the part no. Can anyone see the part no. on the MOSFET - it starts with "IRF" - thanks
well my new battery shit to bed but with this video hopefully problem solved what ive been using for a battery charger now is a ion bluetooth speaker witch produces 14.6 volts
6.8v tap 13.6v tap is voltage is 15v regulated by transistors and current is limited by a thermal contact breaker or mosfet (metal oxide silicon field effect transistor) thermal gate switch (not mounted with or bonded to a heat sink ac to dc voltage is rectified by a full bridge rectifier or a combination of mosfet gate switches (the ones usually mounted on separate individual heat sinks, or banked in sets or pairs on larger heat sinks) they’re over built and over tech’d a lot, especially in the area of smart chargers, which are pure genius, and perfect for those that are not, or the preoccupied absentminded accident prone genius ! Lol
*interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out how to recondition used car batteries try Panlarko Recondition Planner ( **lovy.biz/zrsy** ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my m8 got great results with it.*
here's a few ideas for getting a good result Don't try to do this until you know what you are doing - the acid can burn you Test the voltage first - there may be a kaput cell which will be a waste of time trying to fix. Check the battery fluid. attempt to completely recharge the battery. (I learned about these and more on Rapid renew roadmap website )
I thank you for ur video but IMHO it was very hard to follow because it's not clear where and what u are touching with ur M/T terminal Leads. I gave up after 2.52- 3.09min. NO INSULT meant Bro,
You can delete the circuit board and put a 50 amp bridge rectifier directly to transformer. Just be careful with heat. A bridge rectifier can pull more than transformer output.
You seem to know what you talking about. Need to get a stand or someone to do the filming., because couldn't see exactly where you were putting the leads
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else is searching for how to recondition used car batteries try Panlarko Recondition Planner (do a search on google ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my partner got excellent results with it.
Love repair videos, hate the fact you godda ruin the fun of telling folks to unplug it or not to touch the inner parts because that's some RUclips worthy video fun there 😀
*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
Just found this video 10 years later and the info is still good. I noticed that you are missing the handle. I replaced mine years ago with one-off of a cardboard box that a Christmas tree came in.
Your video is one of the best when it comes to going over all parts of testing including where to place probes on meter. Going over each step doesn't take that much extra time, your having to do it anyway so including it is a true instructional videos. Majority of people don't include most of the steps and that is why people look for help when they don't know and probably trying to learn because this isn't something they do often or ever have done. I assume others who skip all this think everyone is a electric specialist? If they are it's scary to think they need help.
I wish you had a camera that allows you to work without holding camera/phone. This is the only issue because a lot of footage you can not see what your testing. Thanks for doing this and taking the time to help others.
nice focused image , everything is clear and sharp
Hello I just wanted to say I appreciate what you did for the RUclips community I took my charger apart and I was able to fix it thank you very much.
This is my exact (rusty) charger AND my exact problem! Thanks. Working fine and I've sourced the circuit breaker. Great video.
I can see why some people suggest bypassing the switch and CB. Pretty junky stuff. CB Part No. 246-392 12V 35A
Looked for the "by-pass" video and can't find it. Saw other comments here asking the same. I need a constant 12VDC/10amp supply to power my de-rust electrolysis rig. The auto circuitry in my charger keeps shutting me down after a while. I don't think the shut down is due to the thermal breaker, but I stumbled onto your vid in my search for answers to defeat/by-pass the auto circuitry. Thanks
The thermal relay CAN be repaird by filling the damaged contact with silver bearing solder. My Dad worked for the Telephone company, and that is what he used to do when a relay contact got burned and there were no replacements. Worked pretty well and lasted until it was finally replaced. You could use regular 60/40 lead/tin solder, but it didn't last long. I used the silver solder to repair old telegraph key contects, and then buff them down with relay files for a permanent fix. I have a Continental telegraph bug that had corroded contacts that I fixed that way, and it still works today 40 years later. Relay contact pitting comes from switching high current loads that arcing contacts cause. Just be sure to either use a burnishing file or jewlers file or a bronze brush to clean the contacts before soldering with 10% silver bearing solder. Use a lot of rosin flux before adding the solder to keep the solder on the contacts. Then burnish the contacts with very fine emory cloth or a burnishing file. This is the same as cleaning the old ignition points in a car or truck. Mustie1 (here on RUclips) has many fine videos on how to do this. Good Luck!
i've donethat in a pinch as well.
Thank you for the info. Its little bits of info like this that really add up to being a well rounded DIY kind of individual. Good skills to have, thats for sure.
another problem is the switches wear out. You can carefully bend the top tangs of the metal switch case out with fine needle nose pliers. Push the metal case down a bit, that way you don't have to bend the bottom tangs. This allows repairing the switch with out desoldering. After you pull the black plastic toggle out, you can use a fine pick or razor blade to remove the copper contacts strips and rebend them to restore their contact. I think the start/charge switch just bypass the board and directly connects the transformer output to the cables (bypasses the mosfet).
My overload protector was in a two piece plastic housing, so had to break the glue joints to disassemble it. Filed contacts flat and square. Worked for a little bit, but then back to the wimp snapping! I'm ready to bypass the breaker! It'll work, or die! I need a new charger anyway.
Thanks for the vid.
Thank you for this video. Showing me the inside of my charger was in perfect working condition .I found out that my alligator clamps were the culprit. Clean them up with vinegar and was able to spark two clamps together.
It is obvious that your tools and equipment are well looked after.
Thanx man this was exactly what was going on with may craftsman.. I wonder how many chargers wound up in the dump over this simple problem????
Very well explained and very helpful I am working on a battery charger from Harbor Freight looking to see what's wrong one side of it the needles are not worth the needle is not working keep up the good work
What are you saying ?
You have just given me directions and I will try it out with my charger
Yup did what you said and I just saved me some money thank you so much for the advice and a great video
Thanks for the video, it helped a lot. I thought for sure the rusty diodes in my charger were the problem, but it was the thermal breaker.
Wanted to point out you goofed and for about 3 seconds something you were pointing out was accidently in focus.
Would be nice if you held the camera steady and let it focus so we could see what is going on!!
Thanks a ton... Beats the hell outta buying a new one!
Awesome job
Thank you for your help! Greatly appreciated in troubleshooting my battery charger. Cheers!
Thanks I have learn a lot good job
Fixed my problem. Thanks!
Can you do a video about how to convert a smart or automatic battery charger to manual operation only? The harbor freight 200amp or schumacher 200 amp sold at walmart for instance
Thanks for the video!
I have a Century charger Model 87151 with a blown circuit board and I'm waiting for the video you promised on how to bypass the circuit board to get the charger working (in manual mode). You said this video was coming in your June 2, 2012 video for the Thermal Breaker fix.,,,!!!
Good vid if you held the camera steady
VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! On those chargers - leave unplugged and connect Batt FIRST!!!!!!! If it throws a spark, you just save your house from burning down (bad diodes) and 12VAC. Those CAN AND WILL BURN when connected to 12VDC and unplugged from 120VAC. NEVER EVER leave a trickle charger unattended. The big ones on wheels like to burn too.
Yep, my sister's house burned down. Her husband had been routinely charging his electric bicycle battery at night, on the basement work bench. Innocent enough, right? I don't leave any kind of juice on at night. Seen too many neighbors of mine go up in flames while asleep because they left power going to their entertainment center, even though everything was turned off.
Thanks that was just what was wrong with my battery charger.
thanks for the informative video.I'll try to test my charger with 75 amps start,I used it only once during the ice storm and now doesn't spark & charge anymore.
Nice tut.
I have an old Charger with output only at 11,7 V…Why is that i Wonder?
Jan
Is it safe when unplugged or is there any stored voltage and a shock can occur.
Thanks. Great video. I have a VMAXtanks 7A 7 stage charger. All the lights on the front do not work including the power on light. When I test the voltage at the clips my meter reads 10A. It is attached to my sump 120 ah battery. Any ideas or should I just toss it? I think it was working up until recently as my back up sump went off when the circuit to the main sump blew without my knowing. Thanks.
I am not familiar with the VMAXtanks 7A 7 stage charger, so I did a Web search and found a picture. When you say that you measured the voltage, you got 10A? That would be 10 amps, which is not a voltage, and the charger does not have a10 amp light. Did you mean 10 volts? The VMAXtanks 7A 7 stage charger is quite a different charger than what is shown here. It uses electronic sophistication to generate its charging voltage rather than a heavy transformer like the charger here. For the most basic test of your charger, you would need a voltmeter, and you should connect the charger to your sump battery to be able to measure the charger's voltage while charging. If the charger is not working and is out of warranty, it would take electronics expertise and equipment to diagnose and repair the unit. You would be better off to buy a new charger.
Thank you Jon for your thoughts. Yes I meant 10 V. I ended up buying another one and switched the cables to one with an in-line fuse.
thx for the video
yolo
Lite rust inside electronic equipment is inevitable due to condensation. It's important to know the difference between condensation damage and rain damage. This can be tricky if you are dealing with very small components with the potential to pool water.
It's a hard thing to minimise condensation and ventilation issues with the need to avoid material fire hazards inside cabinets and minimise the possibility of insect or rodent damage. If you are thinking of adding a water resistant hack to equipment, choose PVC plastics. PVC remains the conventional flame resistant non conductive material for electrical applications because it is extremely difficult to catch alight and resists smouldering scenarios.
PVC is the first line of defence against the EARLY stages of an electrical fire. BUT in a well establish fire, it's just another lump of solid gasoline.
I hope you will take care of your things.
Good
Cool 👍🏻
Thanks for the great video. I have the same charger with a bad sector switch that gives you the option for 2 amp 10 amp or 55. Is it possible to hard wire it to just 10 amps only and if so can you post it? I also heard you mention with this charger you could also do away with the motherboard that would be fine as well as I would be just be using it to desulfate batteries which needs to be checked often. I live off grid and battery desulfation is important, thanks Larry
When checking the lower power side of the transformer, that should still be AC correct? I get nothing on that side of my transformer but the 120 side is fine. I get 0 at the battery clips also.
How do you check that? Do you plug in the charger and then check? And where do you put the test leads? Sorry, I am such a beginner on using the tester..... Are you actually checking the voltages (ie the charger plugged in), or only continuity? Thx
PS, I am not even getting a hum, though I did verify that the 120 AC is getting to the transformer
The best way to fix that type of Charger is Just Hard wire it to 10 Amps and throw away all the switches and the Thermal Breaker.
hi everyone ,if anyone else trying to find out reconditioning lead acid battery try Battery Recovery Tactics ( battery.RecoveryTactics.com ) ? Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my friend got great results with it.
Late to the party, but thanks for the info. It has earned you a like and another subscriber. :)
Excelent video, but obviously could be shot better: lighting and focus. The RUclips DIY community should build on this video as a script. Credit to the original creator for his general attitude and care. I really like the fact that this vidio retains all the minor errors that are inevitable when exploring old technology. It not easy to do!
If only all power supply equipment had the AC elements on one side of the transformer and the safer DC stuff on the other side!
How do you by pass the board video was first class many thanks
Did you get any info on bypass procedure? I am looking for it too.
Will it still charge even if you don't hook up a hundred and something volts on the import side
Note : Most newer battery chargers won't put out power until it detects voltage from the battery. Safety feature to avoid sparks, etc.
what would the thermal breaker look like on a newer circuit board on a digital charger?
I don't think the Pronto M91's small onboard charger can be taken apart like in your video.
I just bought a used Pronto M91 R SureStep Electric Wheelchair from a thrift store for my Dad.
It had been there for a while and it's batteries were dead.
When I would plug in the on board charger, it would not charge but instead flash Red indicating defective.....
What I found is that the expensive batteries were still good, but that the onboard charger will not recharge the batteries if they are too discharged-low voltage state.
What brought the batteries back to life was, I removed the seat and covers to the batteries.
I disconnected the two battery quick release connectors cables.
I connected an 10 amp automotive battery charger (use the deep cycle battery setting if it has one) each battery separately, for equal times(say 3 hours) BUT Not to a full charge-(Automotive battery chargers full charge to a higher voltage than what gel batteries tolerate).
I then reconnected the batteries together and plugged in the onboard charger which now showed the yellow-charging mode and let charge overnight.
The batteries are now full and seem fine.
Hope this helps!
Very informative...
What if i don't hear the hun but it don't look burnt or anything
That's my situation as well. Things look dusty, a couple cobwebs, but no burnt look or smell. I really need a tutorial that explains what each part is supposed to do, and how to bench test it. This video would be really good, if we could see where he's putting the test leads, and which wires he's disconnecting..... :-(
sir i got a new dpi 48vote CHAGER but it has the wrong CORD.was going to change it out but the new one has three wires black white red my old one has two black white.what do I do.PLEASE help.
Dude I have a newer one than that I had a wirea yellow wire that goes from the transmitter to the switch top loose on a newer model and I'm not getting no power and I don't know which terminal to
Thanks bud I appreciate it 👍
got the same charger could you help a Old Scotsman out how to bypass the board on the charger
Can that transformer be replaced by a microwave transformer, is that the same thing?
Can you just put in a circuit breaker to replace the thermal fuse?
That's a good question, wish I knew the answer
Any other tips? I took my thermal switch out, (which is riveted shut) and it has connection when I test it on the meter, so I have a different issue. It's a peak charger. I get very low voltage (less than 2v at the alligator clamps) on the 6V and 12V switch settings , except when I turn on the engine start switch, then I get 12.8v.
I found that the MOSFET M1 on my circuit board is burnt beyond being able to read the part no. Can anyone see the part no. on the MOSFET - it starts with "IRF" - thanks
I've seen thermal breakers for vehicles - I wonder if one could get one of appropriate size for this?
Yes I have replaced 1 in my charger.
YOU CAN PUT A 100 AMP d.c. CIRCUIT BRAKER OFF E BAY AND it will work fine !!
well my new battery shit to bed but with this video hopefully problem solved what ive been using for a battery charger now is a ion bluetooth speaker witch produces 14.6 volts
just wondering where the video is for bypassing these circuit boards i checked your channel and there nothing there ??
6.8v tap 13.6v tap is voltage is 15v regulated by transistors and current is limited by a thermal contact breaker or mosfet (metal oxide silicon field effect transistor) thermal gate switch (not mounted with or bonded to a heat sink ac to dc voltage is rectified by a full bridge rectifier or a combination of mosfet gate switches (the ones usually mounted on separate individual heat sinks, or banked in sets or pairs on larger heat sinks) they’re over built and over tech’d a lot, especially in the area of smart chargers, which are pure genius, and perfect for those that are not, or the preoccupied absentminded accident prone genius ! Lol
*interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out how to recondition used car batteries try Panlarko Recondition Planner ( **lovy.biz/zrsy** ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my m8 got great results with it.*
everyone should follow it
Wow!!! Go Ahead
I love solar for our office
Really work it
When you are about to die, a wombat is better than no company at all.
Thanks!
Does anyone know where I can order a slide switch 6v/12v/12v boost?
thanks man subbed
Would you upload Ring battery charger RCB 320. Repairing Circuit board > And No of all Transistors.
here's a few ideas for getting a good result
Don't try to do this until you know what you are doing - the acid can burn you
Test the voltage first - there may be a kaput cell which will be a waste of time trying to fix.
Check the battery fluid.
attempt to completely recharge the battery.
(I learned about these and more on Rapid renew roadmap website )
just sort your camera out . great channel you need a tripod .
Most Auto parts house have that thermal breaker about $5
I thank you for ur video but IMHO it was very hard to follow because it's not clear where and what u are touching with ur M/T terminal Leads. I gave up after 2.52- 3.09min. NO INSULT meant Bro,
My board is burned, help out
Be nice to know how to bypass the board
You can delete the circuit board and put a 50 amp bridge rectifier directly to transformer. Just be careful with heat. A bridge rectifier can pull more than transformer output.
What is the purpose of the board? I must have an old charger, I don't have a board anywhere on it.
Good informative video but majority of your filming is blurry, very annoying for the audience.
Why dont ppl review videos first before posting?
how do you bypass the board
I have a question
good show tu
cant see what you are doing
I've been studying battery repairing and found a great resource at rapid renew roadmap (search gogle)
Thanks. Now I don't have to buy another Sears bullshit battery charger. I'm tired of buying sorry made battery chargers.
This looks like an informative video, but the filming is so bad it is useless for me
What happen when you hit connector like he did then it stop working lmao🤔🤣😂
Hola Amigo Hello Friend how are you?
very hard to see
👽
oh my gawd!
Buy a new battery will last plus warranty
learn to shoot video pls. vertigo anyone??
You seem to know what you talking about. Need to get a stand or someone to do the filming., because couldn't see exactly where you were putting the leads
Get a camera stand
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else is searching for how to recondition used car batteries try Panlarko Recondition Planner (do a search on google ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my partner got excellent results with it.
Love repair videos, hate the fact you godda ruin the fun of telling folks to unplug it or not to touch the inner parts because that's some RUclips worthy video fun there 😀