I too have 1.5 - 2ft of clay layer on top of loam. I try to dig my holes deep enough so that I expose the loam layer hoping that will aid drainage. I have been backfilling (and sometimes replacing the soil in the root ball - getting rid of the heavy compost/sawdust/bark/chips) with sand/loam/pumice. Towards the top 2-5" of the root ball I'll also mix in worm castings. Then on top of root ball out to the drip line, 1" of pure worm castings and then 2-3" of compost/woodchips. Would you recommend this method?
HARD PAN!? Yuk,,, Yea lots of the valley is that way. My soil is sandy loam, though...Good thing you caught the bad planting in time! By the way... Good channel! What is is your first name?
This is true, except our climate gets insanely hot during the summer months. We commonly get 42° Celsius for weeks. Although not shown or mentioned in the video, I will be returning to apply about a foot’s worth of mulch on top of the soil. Ensuring the root system remains cool during the summer is one of the reason I don’t plant tropical fruit trees above grade.
@@TropicalCentralValley ahh okay makes sense I'm in a temperate climate in australia too 9b and it gets alot of clay and frosty winters for 6 months and dry summers for 6 months
Yes, all of my in ground longan and sapodilla trees have no problem with our winter. Concerning the sapodilla, you’ll want to provide it with some shade in the summer time.
Wind hasn’t been an issue with my tropicals, maybe the starfruit trees being the only exception. During winter, you’ll certainly want to protect all of your tropicals from the wind, as the wind strips the moisture from the foliage, introducing further cold onto the tree.
@@TropicalCentralValley right! Was just responding to his question about winter threats. Winter winds are what have done damage for me. Luckily plants have bounced back strong!
that clay soil is exactly what I have in my back yard, I should plan to dig during rainy season when it is soft. During the summer was hard like a rock. So how are they right now in 2022? Are they growing?
Assuming the tree has been in your container for a few years now, it may be watering issues. Container grown trees require consistent watering, as the soil does dry up rather quickly. It can also be fertilizing issues, including too much and too little. If the tree is a newly planted, it may just be getting used to the soil. For instance, my Sri Champoo planted in the ground went through the tip browning phase, however, the new leaves do not have any tip browns.
@@TropicalCentralValley it's been in the container for 2 years now, it had a die back,dropping it's leafs also putting out flowers. It's had new growth since then, worried it might repeat the process. I don't water it much anymore, unless the soil drys out. I might need to change the potting mix!!. Thanks kao
If changing the soil, use a 50% peat moss and 50% sand mixture and leave the newly transplanted tree in full shade for about a week, then partial shade for the remaining weeks, until you’re comfortable with it being in full sun.
What a good son you are.👍🏽😊
Intresting how soils vary from California to Florida.
Yeah, we’re kind of stuck with clay soil containing high pH, not friendly to tropical fruit trees.
An update would be nice
The trees were growing great…until my parents decided to rip them out of the ground, unbeknownst to me.
Any update?
Everything but the longan is thriving. Unbeknownst to me, my parents took out the longan tree for some reason.
You should get some gold nugget under California ground
Not quite gold nuggets, but we do have something called hardpan in the Central Valley.
I too have 1.5 - 2ft of clay layer on top of loam. I try to dig my holes deep enough so that I expose the loam layer hoping that will aid drainage. I have been backfilling (and sometimes replacing the soil in the root ball - getting rid of the heavy compost/sawdust/bark/chips) with sand/loam/pumice. Towards the top 2-5" of the root ball I'll also mix in worm castings. Then on top of root ball out to the drip line, 1" of pure worm castings and then 2-3" of compost/woodchips. Would you recommend this method?
If possible, I would incorporate more sand into your mixture, beyond that, your method sounds really good for the tree.
HARD PAN!?
Yuk,,, Yea lots of the valley is that way.
My soil is sandy loam, though...Good thing you caught the bad planting in time!
By the way... Good channel! What is is your first name?
Kao, pronounced “Cal”.
Do they not need to be planted above grade for drainage?
This is true, except our climate gets insanely hot during the summer months. We commonly get 42° Celsius for weeks.
Although not shown or mentioned in the video, I will be returning to apply about a foot’s worth of mulch on top of the soil. Ensuring the root system remains cool during the summer is one of the reason I don’t plant tropical fruit trees above grade.
@@TropicalCentralValley ahh okay makes sense I'm in a temperate climate in australia too 9b and it gets alot of clay and frosty winters for 6 months and dry summers for 6 months
Will Longan, and Sapodilla survive the Fresno winter if planted in the ground without protection?
Yes, all of my in ground longan and sapodilla trees have no problem with our winter. Concerning the sapodilla, you’ll want to provide it with some shade in the summer time.
Just make sure you don't have too much wind hitting your tropicals as that will desicate the leaves as well. My guavas don't do well with wind.
Wind hasn’t been an issue with my tropicals, maybe the starfruit trees being the only exception.
During winter, you’ll certainly want to protect all of your tropicals from the wind, as the wind strips the moisture from the foliage, introducing further cold onto the tree.
@@TropicalCentralValley right! Was just responding to his question about winter threats. Winter winds are what have done damage for me. Luckily plants have bounced back strong!
that clay soil is exactly what I have in my back yard, I should plan to dig during rainy season when it is soft. During the summer was hard like a rock. So how are they right now in 2022? Are they growing?
Unfortunately, my parents had removed the guava and longan to make room for other trees. I found out about it afterwards.
@@TropicalCentralValley after all that work and blisters LOL
We need an update vid here haha
Yeah, unbeknownst to me, my parents had dug up and the trees. It a real bummer as I’m confident the trees would have done great.
@@TropicalCentralValley I cant imagine why.. damn, well im sure you have plenty to share
Yeah, it was a sad day.
My chompoo longan in a pot is giving me grief, the leaf tips are crispy copper colour. Can you give me some advice brother
Assuming the tree has been in your container for a few years now, it may be watering issues. Container grown trees require consistent watering, as the soil does dry up rather quickly.
It can also be fertilizing issues, including too much and too little.
If the tree is a newly planted, it may just be getting used to the soil. For instance, my Sri Champoo planted in the ground went through the tip browning phase, however, the new leaves do not have any tip browns.
@@TropicalCentralValley it's been in the container for 2 years now, it had a die back,dropping it's leafs also putting out flowers. It's had new growth since then, worried it might repeat the process. I don't water it much anymore, unless the soil drys out. I might need to change the potting mix!!.
Thanks kao
If changing the soil, use a 50% peat moss and 50% sand mixture and leave the newly transplanted tree in full shade for about a week, then partial shade for the remaining weeks, until you’re comfortable with it being in full sun.
Is there anyway to post pictures on comments need help and where to pot my lychee and cherimoya tree
Not through RUclips. You may reach out to me on Instagram at TropicalCentralValley
@@TropicalCentralValley will do
Same problem my plants. 🥺
Buy a “digging bar”. So much easier to dig a hole in clay soil.
Unfortunately, that was not an option at the time.