Last week when my "gear head" dad watched your video, he said the clicking sounded like you had a bad piston. We lost dad on Monday....so this would be his last engine diagnosis. He loved watching your show. He was a frustrated sailor, due to age and declining health, unable to sail his Force 50 around the world. However, he was able to live vicariously through your videos. Thank you for bringing so much happiness to his life.
I'm a diesel mechanic for a living. The only things you could have done differently to avoid the bent pushrod are: A) "fog" the engine before you left. B) physically turned the engine by hand if possible using a giant ratchet or breaker bar. C) took the engine apart for a preemptive rebuild. All in all sometimes you have to accept that engines fail sometimes even when you treat them great. I've seen engines need major work at 2000 hrs and the same model of engine run 20k hrs with only minor issues. You guys are great! Keep adventuring!
I just googled this and he's right. You can buy fogging oil to spray into an inboard engine's carburetor, called STA-BIL lubricant. If we don't do that before leaving an engine unused for a long period then the oils & lubricants drain away, and then the startup occurs in a dry engine. I wonder what you do if you couldn't fog the engine before leaving? What's a safe way? Maybe turn it over by hand and inject oil slowly? ...
@@directedby100 In this case fogging the intake and under the valve cover (no carb on diesel but you have the right idea). If the oil filler cap is on the valve cover, fog it. After thinking about it for a few days, maybe performing a cold oil change and pouring or brushing some of the new oil on all the components under the valve cover. Maybe tapping all the rocker arms with a brass mallet. Even after all that it still could have stuck shut.
The first tick sound, 4:20 is stuck valve, tick tick tick.. 4:34 the sound is now cam lobe smacking bottom of lifter, wack wack wack lol, and at 5:30 you shine the light on the culprit Ben! The rocker assy comes off the get out the push rods and then the head has to come off to get at the lifters, and to inspect the running surface on the camshaft. Sounds bad but not catastrophic.. from here anyways. good luck neighbors
@@TF-uj6po by the look of the rocker position im leaning towards that valve being stuck closed, leaving enough clearance for piston, but piled up between valve stem and lifter.
Just wow you guys.. Im loving watching your journey. You been thrown some shit overthe last 12 months yet here you are.. Back on the water with Willow. You should be extremely proud of yourselves.. Good luck moving forward with your travels.. Take care and stay safe.. RD
When you said “blew up” I picture a rod hanging out of the block. Push rod likely bent because the valve was stuck, or the valve spring tension failed to close the valve all the way and the push rod fell out. Replacing a push rod is as simple as dropping a new one in and backing off the adjuster enough to get it aligned. Sometimes you have to pull the rocker assembly to drop them in, make sure it’s lined up in the lifter and use plenty of engine oil during assembly. In your case the problem of the stuck valve still exists so it sounds like you are doing the right thing by popping the head off and having the valves and guides cleaned up since those services are available. Not really anything you could have done differently. If you knew it could be a problem you could have pulled the valve cover first and barred the engine over making sure all the valves were opening and closing before trying to start it. Stopping when you heard the first tick may have helped but its likely the push rod was already bent, having the fuel shut off may have actually helped since the engine spent more time at lower RPM giving that valve a chance to loosen up... who knows. Fun to see your family back on the boat, the happiness is apparent even with all the struggles. Cheers
Exactly. And I also feel like this is not a big deal as long as the right person is doing the job. If they know what they’re doing this should be a piece of cake. While you’re in there you might as well replace them all. Hahahahaha indeed.... 🤙🏽🍤🍺🤞🏽
The valve is stuck. Remove the rocker are, remove the push rod, put a piece of wood on the valve and tap with another piece of wood until it moves back up to seated position. Oil valve stem through out procedure. Bend push rod straight using wood not metal. Take your time. Reinstall components leaving valve cover off. Rotten crankshaft by hand to make sure valve moving properly. Reinstall valve cover using red high temp sealer. Close hood and have a good day!
You guys are awesome! Thank you for taking me with you.... I am a sailor that is land locked.... But you give me freedom somhow.. Thank you.. Keep on truckin!
prep and shakedowns...the sailors life... any other time, I'd recommend a net bag and some strong line and pitching that warm beer overboard but you're near the Indian Ocean so water temps are pretty warm....warm beer is still beer, just with more belches. stay safe folks and late Happy Birthday, Willa.
I've gone thru the comments and no one seems to have a suggestion on what to do prior to starting an engine that sat for a year. That said, I think Ill make a mental note of it and remember that the valve cover comes off relatively easy. A soft mallet hammer strike on top of the valve rocker arms would prob "break" that seal loose. Lub it up well while your in there and it may prevent the bent rod. If I hear clicking like that ever, Ill just shut it down. Thanks for sharing Ben, it sucks this happened to you guys, but it may prevent others from suffering the same fate. God Bless, looking forward to your next vid and Happy Birthday Willa!
Ben it is very easy to replace the push rod, which looks bent. Then pull the injectors and do a compression test, this will tell you if you have damaged the valve or piston.Unfortunatley I think the valve was stuck open and got bent the second time you ran the motor hence the different sound but for the sake of less than one hours work I would do the comp. test, if all cylinders show the same you should be ok . Worst is engine out piston ,con rod, valve , pushrod, oil and gasket kit.
i have also lost my father due to covid 2 weeks ago and his last days were relaxed and calm due to watching all of your vids although he never got to fulfill his dream of sailing the world he enjoyed all the sailing vids from youguys and outhers but for an old salty dog you brought him and i peace and joy thank you my thoughts are with you kat w
When you leave engines for an extended period of time you should use sea foam engine fogging oil to clean the valves out so they don’t stick. Also you should use it on the other engine to clean off any buildup of carbon.
God bless you and your family if there is something that I will ask you guys is that never stopped posting videos you guys are awesome I enjoy every minute of your videos you have a beautiful family enjoy the ocean God be with you guys
You guys are my heroes. I love you. Just to make you feel better; my washing machine kicked the bucket, flooded the laundry and the ktitchen. Same same problems everywhere except you guys have a view.
Hard to miss your smiles, your happiness is contagious! Thanks again for living your dream and sharing it. 🥂❤️ Oh and Willow and the cupcake aftermath, priceless.
UPDATE: Something happened with my viewing of your Video and I only saw the engine question. Piston hitting the Cylinder head and then cut off. Now, that I can view the whole video, the only thing I missed is your helm is on the Port and I notice; you're running on one engine again, that's a No-No! For one, you almost hit another boat! Plus, I don't know If this is true for yours but, sometimes the Starboard engine runs backwards (Right hand) and the Port runs (Normal) Forward (Left Hand). That said the Starboard engine would also sometimes be built with the piston wrist pins off set from the Port engine. So, if the Port was confused with the Starboard engine on assembly... Well, you could imagine. This makes the propellers rotational torque cancel each other out and the boat goes straight. Always when the Cylinder head is rebuilt, the Cylinder block needs to be rebuilt as well. Here again some people will disagree with me but, I don't care what they say; I am right and they are wrong! Possible, your mechanic's diagnosis is correct but, IS also a moot point. You can go with your mechanic's plan and this will work for a short time, with issues, oil burning and low oil pressure, ending with the same problem again in a much shorter time. Remember; you're working with two engines that are continuously trying to vibrate apart, with the weight of two pistons as running mates, against half the weight of one with no running mate and adding to this problem with substandard repairs, will not work. Now's a good time to; Adjust all the valves on the Port engine, I would look into replacing the port cylinder head gasket, rebuilding Both fuel injection pumps, replacing all the Glow plugs on both engines, check the exhaust manifolds for internal leaks (I would replace the goose necks), replace Sea water cooling (impellers) and circulation pumps, clean the air intake baffles, replace all the Fuel filters, Fuel polish, rebuild all the fuel injectors, change oil in both transmissions, clean out both Sea water cooling screens, flush/replace the engine cooling water, check and clean all cooling water heat exchangers (1 for transmission and 1 for engine oil)... add anything else you would like to do here. DO NOT DO what Diesel boaters say; by dumping your used Oils in the fuel tanks! *************************************************************************** Pay attention Boy (in a Foghorn way) Cause, I know something about Boats and Diesel Engines! LOL! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foghorn_Leghorn The cause: I assume, this engine is Starboard, of two 3 Cylinder Diesels (3 Cylinder Diesels, My Personal Pet Peeve) and Boat was ran on one engine to conserve fuel. Usually a Captain will run the engine closest to the helm (Right vs Left) and this will be your problem engine (Wild guess, Starboard?). All Diesels, will not take very much over revving or over loading especially 3 Cylinder types (however 4 Cylinder types will take a little more abuse). Your Diesel is running on 2 Cylinders outta 3 and the big end of one of the connecting rods is loose due to (I assume) over loading which really IS over revving on Boats, one be gets the other. The problem child rod is now able to allow the Piston to hit the Valves of the one Problem cylinder that is not running *OUTTA BALANCE*. Check your manual and see what the Maximum extended running RPM is (3 Cylinders need special attention to RPM to run in BALANCE which actually means they are design to run at one RPM somewhere in the 1800 to 2100 RPM area only NOT WOT). I recommend 1800 to 2100 RPM, Captain needs to always adjust throttles to this RPM range paying close attention to the least amount of exhaust Smoke and Vibration. Note: All twin engine Boats (Gas or Diesel), are NOT designed to run on one engine (Running Overloaded)! Also NOTE: normal operating cruise speed IS 50% Capability speed BOTH ENGINEs RUNNING! NO, I DON'T CARE WHAT EVERYONE ELSE SAYS! A good way to check to see if your Diesel engine is running within it's capabilities, is to check to see if Black smoke is coming out the exhaust at what you THINK is your normal operating cruise speed; Engines in gear running at your normal boat speed (approximately 8 knots Max). BLACK SMOKE; Then engines are either over loaded or under loaded and overrevving. Also, another check is the end of the Diesel engine life check; Take a 3X5 piece of paper and hold it 1 inch above the open Oil filer hole in the Valve cover while lowest RPM running. IF the paper gets blown upward, the engine is very near the end of it's life and is ready for Rebuild. IF the paper gets deflected up and down only 1/4 inch, then Except, for Bearings the engine gets a partial ok by Me for at least 20+ hours. Old Diesels need more frequent Oil changes (Change every time you can't see the dipstick through the Oil)! If RPM is within specifications then the Propellers are making the engines work too hard, Props have too much blade angle pitch and or too much Diameter. determines how far the boat travels in one rotation of Prop shaft (More Pitch more engine load) My Diagnosis is; 1) Sounds like the Engine has low oil pressure and is now damaged. A) Caused by sustained over revving which increases Oil bearing clearances allowing Oil to escape B) I assume, The engine now also has low Oil level attributing to more bearing wear. C) I assume, The engine now also has Dirty Oil attributing to low Oil Pressure D) I assume, at least one Rod Bearing is so lose it has allowed a Piston to hit the Valves May be the Knock Knock Noise but, IS a bad rod bearing that caused this problem of running outta balance (3 cylinders are RPM Dependent otherwise run *OUTTA BALANCE* but, not as bad as shown) . E) I assume, The engine's low Oil Pressure is not allowing all the valves to open properly. F) Possible plugged fuel injector included in "D" assumption. 2) I Assume, engine 2 Port engine has low oil pressure and is about to let go in the same fashion. Remedy; 1) Remove and Rebuild problem child engine. 2) Recommend, Remove and Rebuild Both Engines! 3) Re-prop to run engines within RPM range and load as per Specifications, with least smoke and Vibration! 4) Pay extra special close attention to Break in speeds and loads after rebuild! 5) Always run engines within their specifications per manual NOT at their Wide open throttle Capable speed! WOT is for short bursts of not more than 2 minutes of emergency use only! 6) Oil Change every 100 hours or less if Oil looks dirty and Oil change every time Boat is left for season. 7) Always "fog" the engines before you leave and rotate engines to a point where most of the intake valves are closed and all of the exhaust are closed if possible. And take care of those Babies!
OMG Willa is already a year old! My gosh times flies! She is so cherubic. This was fascinating to see how you navigated dealing with engine problems. I love all your videos and this wonderful journey. Be well!
Hi Team Nahoa, Glad to see back on Nahoa. You all look great. Happy Birthday to Willa. Sorry to see/hear your engine difficulty. Agree with Sailing Fair Isles that after long storage period turning over engine with kill lever/switch in off position to circulate engine oil is good practice. Yanmar manual recommends that one should turnover engine that way for 5 seconds then wait 30 seconds and do this procedure 2 or 3 times before attempting starts, just after 30 days of storage. No telling what that tropical climate did to you after a year. Hopefully as others have said it’s just a bent pushrod. Keep those videos coming. We sail vicariously thru you all. Team Galileo
The VERY best thing about Sunday's is a new Sailing Nahoa episode! You folks absolutely beam positivity - it's so nice to see such a happy (and grateful) family. A shame about the engine but no need to beat yourself up Ben, (would have been nice if the fuel supply valve being closed solved the problem). So glad that you are on the hook again and can recharge your personal batteries for a few days - then tackle the power train reliability. Willa - is simply gorgeous and will be a star in her own right as so many have pointed out in comments. (Perhaps show her name in print or say it slowly so more get the spelling right ?) (Having suffered with GI issues for years it was reassuring to discover that my issue was Gluten-intolerance. Often closely related to dairy sensitivities. Glad you're on top of it Mom!) Thanks for making me laugh out loud - that messy cupcake scene was too much. 😘
WOW! Look at those smiles!!! Engine problems and warm beer haven't dampened your happiness, So glad to see you back on the water. Tick tick tick is usually always a valve. since the push rod is bent, depending on the hours on the motor, you might want to check the pistons and just do a ring job while it is down. Its more work and expense, but its better to do it when you are half way torn down it could save time and expense in the long run. Just a thought. Best of luck.
G'day Ben & Ash, the last noise the engine made, when started, eerily sounded like metal on metal ~ which is bloody awful. It's either a damaged pushrod in the valvetrain or possibly a con rod and rod bearing took a dump? I'd pull the valve cover first, and inspect the pushrods? If nothing is wrong, then remove the head. At least you'll be able to properly inspect the engine, and replace anything you find, before you begin cruising! A lot better to make repairs while still at the marina and not anchored in the middle of the ocean!!! If I was closer, I'd come help you, and completely tear-down both diesels and rebuild them beyond factory specs! I build so many freaking engines at my boat-yards! If you have questions, please don't hesitate to ask mate! Good luck, Ben & Ash. Cheers from Western OZ 🇦🇺.
The fast noise you're hearing while cranking is a loss of compression on one of the cylinders. You should have stopped cranking and pulled the valve cover at that point to investigate. Probably a stuck valve from being rusty from sitting so long in port as I have watched almost every video up to maybe 6 months ago. The loud bam most likely is popping back into the intake as the exhaust valve I think is bent there. what happened was the pushrod continued to bend and the exhaust valve totally stopped moving. What happens is it still draws air in, still fires the cylinder and when the exhaust valve should open, it does not, then it rolls on past with all of that pressure built up still that was not released through the exhaust valve and when the intake valve opens again, it makes a huge pop back into the intake and you are hearing that. Pull the intake hose or whatever it has going to the intake manifold and fire it up. If its popping like crazy, then that is what is happening. It will sound like a gun going off. If so, you could soak the valve stems in pb blaster or a good penetrating lube and it will free them up. I got this typed, now let's watch the rest of the video and I will comment more. As far as the pushrod, you just have to roll the engine until the cam has the lifter on the base of the cam lobe at its lowest point, loosen the jam nut, then the adjuster and that style of rocker arm should have enough room to slide over pushing against that spring on the rocker arm shaft. Pull the old pushrod, inspect that the lifter is still in place, install a new pushrod and slide the rocker over the top. Adjust using a feeler gauge and tighten down the nut. Some of those require pulling the whole shaft up with all of the rockers because there is not quite enough room to get the adjuster in the pushrod cup, but that style there looks like you can simply slide it like I said. Also, you will see a height difference in the valves if you look across the top of them, if you loosen all of the adjusters and pull the rockers, you will see the height difference in that one valve that bent the pushrod if something bent the head or it dropped the valve. Another way is to take a rubber mallet and tap lightly on the top of the stem and you will feel a difference in that one valve if something is bad wrong. Freightliner semi truck senior tech here.
Really glad there were no explosions, Oil coursing everywhere kind of blown engine. Looks like you are getting it and all else sorted. Awesome. Time to work on the tans!!
Glad to see you out and about again a year's a long time to be away as the seized bits on your boat are letting you know! In regard to what you could have done to prevent it, well probably nothing but one thing I always do when starting an engine when it's been left for a bit is hold down the kill switch & turn it over a couple of times without letting it fire up. All your oil would have drained down & turning it over will pump some oil back to the top end. So it will (hopefully) free up under starter without the excessive forces of the engine under power. It will at least limit the damage if something is really stuck! The other thing is, did you put new oil in the engine before you left? Old oil sitting in the engine for long periods is asking for trouble as it will have water and all sorts of acid & corrosive substances in there, diesels are nasty dirty things! This is why out of the tropics where we might lay up for a few months over winter we always change the oil at the end of the season not the start. Make sure you get the engine up to temp before you shut it down too to chase off all the water. Those pushrods are hollow, they're designed to bend rather than force something more vital to break, so just lifting the rocker arm off, dropping a new one in and adjusting the tappet is probably all thats required. So unless there's some other reason for a top end overhaul I wouldn't bother.
⬆️ WHAT!?! "... pushrods are hollow, they're designed to bend rather than force something more vital to break." 🙄 Oh, please. They are hollow to allow oil to flow to the upper mechanical mechanisms. You must be in the sun to much.
After watching to the end now I agree with the repair. It will be a new adventure rebuilding the head and reassembling it but well worth the effort. i would get a second set of seals and gaskets for the other just in case( better to have the parts and not need them) it goes later on the trip. Always enjoy the further adventures of Willa and what shes up to next. Going to make a great sailor some day soon. Shes so calm while her parents freak out . Lol. Better days and better sailing ahead. Bill H.
So cool to see you guys back in the water, remember that tiny caravan😝. I am sure those days all you could think of was this moment, jumping into the water from your boat!! Well done guys!!!🥰
By far my most favorite RUclips channel I look forward to your videos every week I been following you since day one and you guys do a great job on editing and making a film.. and willa is getting so big so fast... congrats guys you both are amazing people keep putting out great content for us.. ps.. happy bday willa
I always enjoy your guys video uploads. Bummer about the engine. Willa is definitely the star of the show, she is adorable. I'll be awaiting your next upload.
I used to have a 30 foot piver trimaran on the west coast of Canada. my engine was a Yamaha outboard mounted on one back corner, every time I left the dock I had to do a 360 to gain enough speed to steer the boat lol.
Hey guys I’m a marine mechanic from Vancouver Island Nanaimo. One thing I have noticed that nobody has mentioned is that you should be very careful trying to start and excessively cranking an engine without the raw water ball valve being turned off. Because the water lock muffler can fill with ocean water and flow up into the aft cylinder. Because water cannot be compressed the result will be a bent push rod which is the weakest link in the top end of the engine. Watch out for rust in the cylinder. And change your oil. Your little JH should last for 6000 hours
I believe what you meant to say is a bent connecting rod not push rod. If the cylinder is full of water you will bend the connecting rod between the piston and crankshaft.
@@howiroll740 The connecting rod is way stronger than the little pushrods. With a cylinder full of water and the starter rolling the engine over. The piston is trying to compress the water and an valve is trying to open. The valve has resistance against the water and the force is transferred to the pushrod. Both bent connecting rods and push rods can be caused by water intrusion I agree with your statement. But watching Ben crank the engine for a long time trying to start the engine without possibly shutting off the raw water lead me to suspect water intrusion.
@@jaredkolich2004 The bent push rod is on an exhaust valve which begins to open at BDC before the upstroke (exhaust) of the piston. In order for water to enter the cylinder the valve would have to be stuck at least partially open on a downstroke. If the valve was stuck open, then the push rod could move out of alignment as the camshaft rotated and be bent as the cam continued rotating. I'm curious how many hours are on this engine since Ben said the loud knocking didn't start until they revved the engine.
@@howiroll740 My guess is they will find some sort of interference causing the valve not to move properly. The push rod is like the fuse-able link in the system, first to pop. Salt water and engines are never a good mix. Hopefully they find a reputable shop to remove the head properly.
Even if hydrolock did not cause this problem, knowing to shut off the intake water if a marine diesel does not start within a minute of cranking is important basic knowledge.
Sitting at the hem Willa total has the boat under control while docking. And was wondering what all the fuss was about. She is so adorable. Happy Birthday Willa!
Looks like Willa enjoyed her cup cake. Ben it looks like you have a yanmar 3JH series engine. I would have turned the engine over by hand to make sure that the valves or pistons were not stuck from sitting for long. Looking forward, since you will be doing a long crossing and you already programmed replacing your impellers for the fresh water and sea water pumps, it would be best to drain your fuel tanks of the old fuel, replace the filters for your fuel water separators and also the fuel filters on the engine. Most of the engine problems are due to dirty or contaminated fuel. Looking forward to see you guys on your way. Good luck!
It's a damn shame you guys had to leave the boat dry-docked for so long! All the corrosion is a real shame & I'm sure these fixes have been ghastly expensive. I love watching your channel... ⛵
Wish you the best of luck but im sure you two our tough people and can handle this little set back. Congrats on the new addition to the family 👪she's adorable. Will be pray for you all. Can't wait to see what yoir next adventure brings. God's speed and blessings. I'll be pray n for yall. Great times ahead and you both no its all wwll worth the reward.
You have engine problems, and I start Radiation treatment for lung cancer this week. Life is full of funky problems. Good luck with getting the rods fixed. Love ya, Ben, Ashley, & Willow.
I am so glad to see you guys back on the water been following you every step of the way since fall of 2019, excellent work well done. Thank you for not giving up and continuing this loop. Im a father of four and got interested in sailing in order to get them out in the world to meet people like you guys and experience the cultures of other lands.
The more I watch your videos, the more appreciative I am of your narrative & video skills and your overall living of life. So happy for you and thanks for sharing your journey.
Piston hitting a stuck valve which is now bent, completely mangled bearing or threw a rod if you have a bunch of oil under the engine? Edit: Winner winner chicken dinner! You got unlucky and one of the valves was fully open when you shut down and got stuck. Not much you can realistically do to prevent that BUT when you heard the ticking you should have opened the valve cover and soaked the valves in penetrating fluid to try and free it up.
No engine requires oil additives. Engine oil is already perfectly slippy and designed to clean and protect. An additive wouldn't have prevented this in any way. Also your suggestion to "run 40% additive" is utter nonsense. Additives are normally sold in 250ml bottles, and the engine oil capacity will be 4-5L so to run 40% additive would require 2L of additive or 8 bottles. You're talking out your arse.
For a next time before and after storage, remove the Valve cover and spray some penetrating oil onto the valve stems. Plus use a storage oil or additive. A stuck valve after using penetrating oil, you also can tap lightly with a hammer on the spring. It is usually the build up of carbon causing the trouble, by running the engine high once in a while you can burn off those build ups. On a Diesel the fuel also lubricates, so to open the fuel valve before starting is a heck of a good idea! And always of coarse check the oil level before starting the engine, make sure it is at its proper mark!
After a long period of an engine standing still. Best practice is to turn the engine over by hand 3 or 4 revolution, to make sure everything is free and clear prior to starting. If it does not turn by hand you can rock it to free it up. Hopefully this will avoid any damage when starting. Also doing a pre-start check list would be beneficial, as it has been awhile since you were onboard. So you catch things like closed valves.
Don't beat yourself up ! Hindsight is 20/20 vision ! Good luck with the repair ! At least you have great access to your engine ! That will make things a whole lot easier Cheers
I’m was also allergic to milk and egg but when I turned five I had just grown it away and I believe it will be the same to your kid and even though it's hard I believe you can make it. And happy B day
if you ever have to store your boat again, There is a spray you can get to spray into the air intake to lubricate the face of the valves just before turning off. It will keep the valves from sticking harshly there fore no bent push rods. But even so, its not a big job in most cases to replace the push rod, you simplify loosen up the rocker and push it to the side. then shake and spend and wiggle the push rod until it breaks from the lifter, pull it out the simple slide the new in. just make sure you read the Manuel on how to adjust the rockers.
Had a similar problem after letting our boat sit for about 8 months in Panama. But it had an old Perkins and those old engines were very forgiving and the valve freed up. Boats and engines just don’t like to sit!! We had the same problem. With green slime and mold. Lots of clean up. And always issues. You guys are doing great! I love your third crew member!! And yes, I had a similar incident in fuel management. I forgot to switch fuel tanks and ran one dry while bashing into the Caribbean trade winds with heavy squalls. Big mistake. And of course, only had one engine on our 44’ monohull.
Last week when my "gear head" dad watched your video, he said the clicking sounded like you had a bad piston. We lost dad on Monday....so this would be his last engine diagnosis. He loved watching your show. He was a frustrated sailor, due to age and declining health, unable to sail his Force 50 around the world. However, he was able to live vicariously through your videos. Thank you for bringing so much happiness to his life.
sorry for your loss Kat.
So sorry for your loss
Fair winds and following seas, Dad. Much love to you, Kat.
love this kat
So sorry to hear about your dad’s passing. Prayers to you and your family.
I'm a diesel mechanic for a living. The only things you could have done differently to avoid the bent pushrod are: A) "fog" the engine before you left. B) physically turned the engine by hand if possible using a giant ratchet or breaker bar. C) took the engine apart for a preemptive rebuild. All in all sometimes you have to accept that engines fail sometimes even when you treat them great. I've seen engines need major work at 2000 hrs and the same model of engine run 20k hrs with only minor issues. You guys are great! Keep adventuring!
I just googled this and he's right. You can buy fogging oil to spray into an inboard engine's carburetor, called STA-BIL lubricant. If we don't do that before leaving an engine unused for a long period then the oils & lubricants drain away, and then the startup occurs in a dry engine. I wonder what you do if you couldn't fog the engine before leaving? What's a safe way? Maybe turn it over by hand and inject oil slowly? ...
@@directedby100 In this case fogging the intake and under the valve cover (no carb on diesel but you have the right idea). If the oil filler cap is on the valve cover, fog it. After thinking about it for a few days, maybe performing a cold oil change and pouring or brushing some of the new oil on all the components under the valve cover. Maybe tapping all the rocker arms with a brass mallet. Even after all that it still could have stuck shut.
The first tick sound, 4:20 is stuck valve, tick tick tick.. 4:34 the sound is now cam lobe smacking bottom of lifter, wack wack wack lol, and at 5:30 you shine the light on the culprit Ben! The rocker assy comes off the get out the push rods and then the head has to come off to get at the lifters, and to inspect the running surface on the camshaft. Sounds bad but not catastrophic.. from here anyways. good luck neighbors
Hopefully it didn't smash the hell out of the top of the piston 😬
@@TF-uj6po by the look of the rocker position im leaning towards that valve being stuck closed, leaving enough clearance for piston, but piled up between valve stem and lifter.
Happy birthday to Willow! She is a lucky princess! You guys are wonderful people, always positive! Love you!
It was so special for you to share Willa’s first birthday with us, thank you so much!
Stay safe and good luck with the boat work!
Looks like Willa loved her cupcake. Happy birthday little sailor girl. Congratulations on getting back in the water.
Just wow you guys.. Im loving watching your journey. You been thrown some shit overthe last 12 months yet here you are.. Back on the water with Willow. You should be extremely proud of yourselves.. Good luck moving forward with your travels.. Take care and stay safe.. RD
And although it's a tad late, HAPPY BIRTHDAY SWEET BABY GIRL!!!
When you said “blew up” I picture a rod hanging out of the block. Push rod likely bent because the valve was stuck, or the valve spring tension failed to close the valve all the way and the push rod fell out. Replacing a push rod is as simple as dropping a new one in and backing off the adjuster enough to get it aligned. Sometimes you have to pull the rocker assembly to drop them in, make sure it’s lined up in the lifter and use plenty of engine oil during assembly. In your case the problem of the stuck valve still exists so it sounds like you are doing the right thing by popping the head off and having the valves and guides cleaned up since those services are available. Not really anything you could have done differently. If you knew it could be a problem you could have pulled the valve cover first and barred the engine over making sure all the valves were opening and closing before trying to start it. Stopping when you heard the first tick may have helped but its likely the push rod was already bent, having the fuel shut off may have actually helped since the engine spent more time at lower RPM giving that valve a chance to loosen up... who knows. Fun to see your family back on the boat, the happiness is apparent even with all the struggles. Cheers
Exactly. And I also feel like this is not a big deal as long as the right person is doing the job. If they know what they’re doing this should be a piece of cake. While you’re in there you might as well replace them all. Hahahahaha indeed.... 🤙🏽🍤🍺🤞🏽
Danm this a whole essay
Yep, a sticky valve guide will certainly bend a hallow pushrod.
Agree with rod went out, bent.
My rod is also bent.
The valve is stuck. Remove the rocker are, remove the push rod, put a piece of wood on the valve and tap with another piece of wood until it moves back up to seated position. Oil valve stem through out procedure. Bend push rod straight using wood not metal. Take your time. Reinstall components leaving valve cover off. Rotten crankshaft by hand to make sure valve moving properly. Reinstall valve cover using red high temp sealer. Close hood and have a good day!
You know what's great You're honesty about explaining you don't know everything. Very refreshing. Just love watching you guys's video.
You guys are awesome! Thank you for taking me with you.... I am a sailor that is land locked.... But you give me freedom somhow.. Thank you.. Keep on truckin!
Willow looks very happy to be living on the water again. She can probably feel that Mom and Dad are happier, she is adorable!
prep and shakedowns...the sailors life... any other time, I'd recommend a net bag and some strong line and pitching that warm beer overboard but you're near the Indian Ocean so water temps are pretty warm....warm beer is still beer, just with more belches. stay safe folks and late Happy Birthday, Willa.
Willa in the Captains chair, she's so stinkin cute. A midst the chaos your smiles are genuine and it is still home sweet home.❤
as for the valves I would have thought you would have already hit them with a rubber mallet to verify they moved.
I've gone thru the comments and no one seems to have a suggestion on what to do prior to starting an engine that sat for a year. That said, I think Ill make a mental note of it and remember that the valve cover comes off relatively easy. A soft mallet hammer strike on top of the valve rocker arms would prob "break" that seal loose. Lub it up well while your in there and it may prevent the bent rod. If I hear clicking like that ever, Ill just shut it down. Thanks for sharing Ben, it sucks this happened to you guys, but it may prevent others from suffering the same fate. God Bless, looking forward to your next vid and Happy Birthday Willa!
Always pull valve cover turn engine over by hand see if valves are moving before trying to start.
@@dougjones6823 you beat me to it if in doubt turn it over by hand!
Guys you look sooo much happier and bubba is really doing well. Honestly- Im smiling x
Ben it is very easy to replace the push rod, which looks bent. Then pull the injectors and do a compression test, this will tell you if you have damaged the valve or piston.Unfortunatley I think the valve was stuck open and got bent the second time you ran the motor hence the different sound but for the sake of less than one hours work I would do the comp. test, if all cylinders show the same you should be ok . Worst is engine out piston ,con rod, valve , pushrod, oil and gasket kit.
Comp test, drain the oil and look for anything shiny.
i have also lost my father due to covid 2 weeks ago and his last days were relaxed and calm due to watching all of your vids although he never got to fulfill his dream of sailing the world he enjoyed all the sailing vids from youguys and outhers but for an old salty dog you brought him and i peace and joy thank you my thoughts are with you kat w
Awww. Thanks and so sorry to hear ❤️
When you leave engines for an extended period of time you should use sea foam engine fogging oil to clean the valves out so they don’t stick. Also you should use it on the other engine to clean off any buildup of carbon.
Drain the oil and gas, check the lines for any signs of age or cracking.
God bless you and your family if there is something that I will ask you guys is that never stopped posting videos you guys are awesome I enjoy every minute of your videos you have a beautiful family enjoy the ocean God be with you guys
Willa, cute kid! Happy Birthday!
You guys are my heroes. I love you. Just to make you feel better; my washing machine kicked the bucket, flooded the laundry and the ktitchen. Same same problems everywhere except you guys have a view.
Willa and the cupcake - oh my how cute
Great to see you back in the water with smiles on your faces. Willa seems to be quite the sailor sitting in the Captains chair.
"Abaft the port beam ye landlubbing hearties," commands Willa as she quaffs some warm ale with Da.
Hard to miss your smiles, your happiness is contagious! Thanks again for living your dream and sharing it. 🥂❤️ Oh and Willow and the cupcake aftermath, priceless.
Man, you have some proper challenges, 2 lovely ladies to keep happy and satisfied. And only warm beers !!! Great episode.
UPDATE: Something happened with my viewing of your Video and I only saw the engine question. Piston hitting the Cylinder head and then cut off. Now, that I can view the whole video, the only thing I missed is your helm is on the Port and I notice; you're running on one engine again, that's a No-No! For one, you almost hit another boat! Plus, I don't know If this is true for yours but, sometimes the Starboard engine runs backwards (Right hand) and the Port runs (Normal) Forward (Left Hand). That said the Starboard engine would also sometimes be built with the piston wrist pins off set from the Port engine. So, if the Port was confused with the Starboard engine on assembly... Well, you could imagine.
This makes the propellers rotational torque cancel each other out and the boat goes straight.
Always when the Cylinder head is rebuilt, the Cylinder block needs to be rebuilt as well.
Here again some people will disagree with me but, I don't care what they say;
I am right and they are wrong!
Possible, your mechanic's diagnosis is correct but, IS also a moot point.
You can go with your mechanic's plan and this will work for a short time, with issues, oil burning and low oil pressure, ending with the same problem again in a much shorter time.
Remember; you're working with two engines that are continuously trying to vibrate apart, with the weight of two pistons as running mates, against half the weight of one with no running mate and adding to this problem with substandard repairs, will not work.
Now's a good time to;
Adjust all the valves on the Port engine, I would look into replacing the port cylinder head gasket, rebuilding Both fuel injection pumps, replacing all the Glow plugs on both engines, check the exhaust manifolds for internal leaks (I would replace the goose necks), replace Sea water cooling (impellers) and circulation pumps, clean the air intake baffles, replace all the Fuel filters, Fuel polish, rebuild all the fuel injectors, change oil in both transmissions, clean out both Sea water cooling screens, flush/replace the engine cooling water, check and clean all cooling water heat exchangers (1 for transmission and 1 for engine oil)... add anything else you would like to do here.
DO NOT DO what Diesel boaters say; by dumping your used Oils in the fuel tanks!
***************************************************************************
Pay attention Boy (in a Foghorn way) Cause, I know something about Boats and Diesel Engines! LOL! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foghorn_Leghorn
The cause:
I assume, this engine is Starboard, of two 3 Cylinder Diesels (3 Cylinder Diesels, My Personal Pet Peeve) and Boat was ran on one engine to conserve fuel. Usually a Captain will run the engine closest to the helm (Right vs Left) and this will be your problem engine (Wild guess, Starboard?).
All Diesels, will not take very much over revving or over loading especially 3 Cylinder types
(however 4 Cylinder types will take a little more abuse).
Your Diesel is running on 2 Cylinders outta 3 and the big end of one of the connecting rods is loose due to (I assume) over loading which really IS over revving on Boats, one be gets the other. The problem child rod is now able to allow the Piston to hit the Valves of the one Problem cylinder that is not running *OUTTA BALANCE*. Check your manual and see what the Maximum extended running RPM is (3 Cylinders need special attention to RPM to run in BALANCE which actually means they are design to run at one RPM somewhere in the 1800 to 2100 RPM area only NOT WOT).
I recommend 1800 to 2100 RPM, Captain needs to always adjust throttles to this RPM range paying close attention to the least amount of exhaust Smoke and Vibration.
Note: All twin engine Boats (Gas or Diesel), are NOT designed to run on one engine (Running Overloaded)!
Also NOTE: normal operating cruise speed IS 50% Capability speed BOTH ENGINEs RUNNING!
NO, I DON'T CARE WHAT EVERYONE ELSE SAYS!
A good way to check to see if your Diesel engine is running within it's capabilities, is to check
to see if Black smoke is coming out the exhaust at what you THINK is your normal operating cruise speed; Engines in gear running at your normal boat speed (approximately 8 knots Max).
BLACK SMOKE; Then engines are either over loaded or under loaded and overrevving.
Also, another check is the end of the Diesel engine life check;
Take a 3X5 piece of paper and hold it 1 inch above the open Oil filer hole in the Valve cover while lowest RPM running.
IF the paper gets blown upward, the engine is very near the end of it's life and is ready for Rebuild.
IF the paper gets deflected up and down only 1/4 inch, then Except, for Bearings the engine gets a partial ok by Me for at least 20+ hours.
Old Diesels need more frequent Oil changes (Change every time you can't see the dipstick through the Oil)!
If RPM is within specifications then the Propellers are making the engines work too hard, Props have too much blade angle pitch and or too much Diameter. determines how far the boat travels in one rotation of Prop shaft (More Pitch more engine load)
My Diagnosis is;
1) Sounds like the Engine has low oil pressure and is now damaged.
A) Caused by sustained over revving which increases Oil bearing clearances allowing Oil to escape
B) I assume, The engine now also has low Oil level attributing to more bearing wear.
C) I assume, The engine now also has Dirty Oil attributing to low Oil Pressure
D) I assume, at least one Rod Bearing is so lose it has allowed a Piston to hit the Valves
May be the Knock Knock Noise but, IS a bad rod bearing that caused this problem of running outta
balance (3 cylinders are RPM Dependent otherwise run *OUTTA BALANCE* but, not as bad as shown) .
E) I assume, The engine's low Oil Pressure is not allowing all the valves to open properly.
F) Possible plugged fuel injector included in "D" assumption.
2) I Assume, engine 2 Port engine has low oil pressure and is about to let go in the same fashion.
Remedy;
1) Remove and Rebuild problem child engine.
2) Recommend, Remove and Rebuild Both Engines!
3) Re-prop to run engines within RPM range and load as per Specifications, with least smoke and Vibration!
4) Pay extra special close attention to Break in speeds and loads after rebuild!
5) Always run engines within their specifications per manual NOT at their Wide open throttle Capable
speed! WOT is for short bursts of not more than 2 minutes of emergency use only!
6) Oil Change every 100 hours or less if Oil looks dirty and Oil change every time Boat is left for season.
7) Always "fog" the engines before you leave and rotate engines to a point where most of the intake valves are closed and all of the exhaust are closed if possible.
And take care of those Babies!
Good luck guys. It won’t be long until it’s all finished and you’re sailing again.
Love watching your family. Never felt the desire to join a patron until now.
OMG Willa is already a year old! My gosh times flies! She is so cherubic. This was fascinating to see how you navigated dealing with engine problems. I love all your videos and this wonderful journey. Be well!
Sounds like it bent a valve, was stuck then the second time it got started it bent it.
Hi Team Nahoa,
Glad to see back on Nahoa. You all look great. Happy Birthday to Willa.
Sorry to see/hear your engine difficulty. Agree with Sailing Fair Isles that after long storage period turning over engine with kill lever/switch in off position to circulate engine oil is good practice. Yanmar manual recommends that one should turnover engine that way for 5 seconds then wait 30 seconds and do this procedure 2 or 3 times before attempting starts, just after 30 days of storage. No telling what that tropical climate did to you after a year. Hopefully as others have said it’s just a bent pushrod.
Keep those videos coming. We sail vicariously thru you all.
Team Galileo
Willa going off to college and theirs “still a lot to do “. Excellent
The VERY best thing about Sunday's is a new Sailing Nahoa episode!
You folks absolutely beam positivity - it's so nice to see such a happy (and grateful) family.
A shame about the engine but no need to beat yourself up Ben, (would have been nice if the fuel supply valve being closed solved the problem). So glad that you are on the hook again and can recharge your personal batteries for a few days - then tackle the power train reliability.
Willa - is simply gorgeous and will be a star in her own right as so many have pointed out in comments. (Perhaps show her name in print or say it slowly so more get the spelling right ?)
(Having suffered with GI issues for years it was reassuring to discover that my issue was Gluten-intolerance. Often closely related to dairy sensitivities. Glad you're on top of it Mom!)
Thanks for making me laugh out loud - that messy cupcake scene was too much.
😘
So living through your experiences! We watch every log as we work our way to our dream in Palawan! Willow is so good, what a champ!
Absolutely correct A Rod
WOW! Look at those smiles!!! Engine problems and warm beer haven't dampened your happiness,
So glad to see you back on the water.
Tick tick tick is usually always a valve. since the push rod is bent, depending on the hours on the motor, you might want to check the pistons and just do a ring job while it is down. Its more work and expense, but its better to do it when you are half way torn down it could save time and expense in the long run. Just a thought.
Best of luck.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO STAY AFLOAT GOOD LUCK PRAYING FOR YOUR FAMILY.
Amen :)
keep smiling! with that, nothing can happen to you. Good luck and enjoy the young family.
G'day Ben & Ash, the last noise the engine made, when started, eerily sounded like metal on metal ~ which is bloody awful. It's either a damaged pushrod in the valvetrain or possibly a con rod and rod bearing took a dump? I'd pull the valve cover first, and inspect the pushrods? If nothing is wrong, then remove the head. At least you'll be able to properly inspect the engine, and replace anything you find, before you begin cruising! A lot better to make repairs while still at the marina and not anchored in the middle of the ocean!!! If I was closer, I'd come help you, and completely tear-down both diesels and rebuild them beyond factory specs! I build so many freaking engines at my boat-yards! If you have questions, please don't hesitate to ask mate! Good luck, Ben & Ash. Cheers from Western OZ 🇦🇺.
Happy Birthday beautiful girl!!
You’re so blessed to sail with your Mom & Dad
The fast noise you're hearing while cranking is a loss of compression on one of the cylinders. You should have stopped cranking and pulled the valve cover at that point to investigate. Probably a stuck valve from being rusty from sitting so long in port as I have watched almost every video up to maybe 6 months ago. The loud bam most likely is popping back into the intake as the exhaust valve I think is bent there. what happened was the pushrod continued to bend and the exhaust valve totally stopped moving. What happens is it still draws air in, still fires the cylinder and when the exhaust valve should open, it does not, then it rolls on past with all of that pressure built up still that was not released through the exhaust valve and when the intake valve opens again, it makes a huge pop back into the intake and you are hearing that. Pull the intake hose or whatever it has going to the intake manifold and fire it up. If its popping like crazy, then that is what is happening. It will sound like a gun going off. If so, you could soak the valve stems in pb blaster or a good penetrating lube and it will free them up. I got this typed, now let's watch the rest of the video and I will comment more. As far as the pushrod, you just have to roll the engine until the cam has the lifter on the base of the cam lobe at its lowest point, loosen the jam nut, then the adjuster and that style of rocker arm should have enough room to slide over pushing against that spring on the rocker arm shaft. Pull the old pushrod, inspect that the lifter is still in place, install a new pushrod and slide the rocker over the top. Adjust using a feeler gauge and tighten down the nut. Some of those require pulling the whole shaft up with all of the rockers because there is not quite enough room to get the adjuster in the pushrod cup, but that style there looks like you can simply slide it like I said. Also, you will see a height difference in the valves if you look across the top of them, if you loosen all of the adjusters and pull the rockers, you will see the height difference in that one valve that bent the pushrod if something bent the head or it dropped the valve. Another way is to take a rubber mallet and tap lightly on the top of the stem and you will feel a difference in that one valve if something is bad wrong. Freightliner semi truck senior tech here.
Really glad there were no explosions, Oil coursing everywhere kind of blown engine. Looks like you are getting it and all else sorted. Awesome. Time to work on the tans!!
Glad to see you out and about again a year's a long time to be away as the seized bits on your boat are letting you know!
In regard to what you could have done to prevent it, well probably nothing but one thing I always do when starting an engine when it's been left for a bit is hold down the kill switch & turn it over a couple of times without letting it fire up.
All your oil would have drained down & turning it over will pump some oil back to the top end. So it will (hopefully) free up under starter without the excessive forces of the engine under power. It will at least limit the damage if something is really stuck! The other thing is, did you put new oil in the engine before you left? Old oil sitting in the engine for long periods is asking for trouble as it will have water and all sorts of acid & corrosive substances in there, diesels are nasty dirty things! This is why out of the tropics where we might lay up for a few months over winter we always change the oil at the end of the season not the start. Make sure you get the engine up to temp before you shut it down too to chase off all the water.
Those pushrods are hollow, they're designed to bend rather than force something more vital to break, so just lifting the rocker arm off, dropping a new one in and adjusting the tappet is probably all thats required. So unless there's some other reason for a top end overhaul I wouldn't bother.
⬆️ WHAT!?! "... pushrods are hollow, they're designed to bend rather than force something more vital to break." 🙄 Oh, please. They are hollow to allow oil to flow to the upper mechanical mechanisms.
You must be in the sun to much.
After watching to the end now I agree with the repair. It will be a new adventure rebuilding the head and reassembling it but well worth the effort. i would get a second set of seals and gaskets for the other just in case( better to have the parts and not need them) it goes later on the trip.
Always enjoy the further adventures of Willa and what shes up to next. Going to make a great sailor some day soon. Shes so calm while her parents freak out . Lol. Better days and better sailing ahead.
Bill H.
Drinking warm 🍻 beer... The struggle is real!
So cool to see you guys back in the water, remember that tiny caravan😝. I am sure those days all you could think of was this moment, jumping into the water from your boat!! Well done guys!!!🥰
By far my most favorite RUclips channel I look forward to your videos every week I been following you since day one and you guys do a great job on editing and making a film.. and willa is getting so big so fast... congrats guys you both are amazing people keep putting out great content for us.. ps.. happy bday willa
Happy Birthday Willa! Love you guys.. watching the last commercial now :).. I always watch the commercials for the channels I love :)
Been waiting for your weekly update guys🥰
Great to see you all moving the boat. Happy 1st birthday to sweet Willa!
I think Willa already loves cake :D!
Take care guys!
Love the way you both just laugh off issues. Hope things stop breaking cheers from the UK
Hell yes first lol great video guys live your work mad love from Australia
I always enjoy your guys video uploads. Bummer about the engine. Willa is definitely the star of the show, she is adorable. I'll be awaiting your next upload.
I used to have a 30 foot piver trimaran on the west coast of Canada. my engine was a Yamaha outboard mounted on one back corner, every time I left the dock I had to do a 360 to gain enough speed to steer the boat lol.
Hey guys I’m a marine mechanic from Vancouver Island Nanaimo. One thing I have noticed that nobody has mentioned is that you should be very careful trying to start and excessively cranking an engine without the raw water ball valve being turned off. Because the water lock muffler can fill with ocean water and flow up into the aft cylinder. Because water cannot be compressed the result will be a bent push rod which is the weakest link in the top end of the engine. Watch out for rust in the cylinder. And change your oil. Your little JH should last for 6000 hours
I believe what you meant to say is a bent connecting rod not push rod. If the cylinder is full of water you will bend the connecting rod between the piston and crankshaft.
@@howiroll740 The connecting rod is way stronger than the little pushrods. With a cylinder full of water and the starter rolling the engine over. The piston is trying to compress the water and an valve is trying to open. The valve has resistance against the water and the force is transferred to the pushrod. Both bent connecting rods and push rods can be caused by water intrusion I agree with your statement. But watching Ben crank the engine for a long time trying to start the engine without possibly shutting off the raw water lead me to suspect water intrusion.
@@jaredkolich2004 The bent push rod is on an exhaust valve which begins to open at BDC before the upstroke (exhaust) of the piston. In order for water to enter the cylinder the valve would have to be stuck at least partially open on a downstroke. If the valve was stuck open, then the push rod could move out of alignment as the camshaft rotated and be bent as the cam continued rotating. I'm curious how many hours are on this engine since Ben said the loud knocking didn't start until they revved the engine.
@@howiroll740 My guess is they will find some sort of interference causing the valve not to move properly. The push rod is like the fuse-able link in the system, first to pop. Salt water and engines are never a good mix. Hopefully they find a reputable shop to remove the head properly.
Even if hydrolock did not cause this problem, knowing to shut off the intake water if a marine diesel does not start within a minute of cranking is important basic knowledge.
you missed it she grabbed the wheel while you were gone and saved ya'll from catastrophe. lol
😂👼🏻
Ashley you look great! Willa is adorable!!!
poor ash looks horrified when ben is describing the engine repairs. She's thinking omg its gonna be expensive
Sitting at the hem Willa total has the boat under control while docking. And was wondering what all the fuss was about. She is so adorable. Happy Birthday Willa!
I wish that someday this child become a ship 🚢 captain and make tour around the world
Looks like Willa enjoyed her cup cake. Ben it looks like you have a yanmar 3JH series engine. I would have turned the engine over by hand to make sure that the valves or pistons were not stuck from sitting for long. Looking forward, since you will be doing a long crossing and you already programmed replacing your impellers for the fresh water and sea water pumps, it would be best to drain your fuel tanks of the old fuel, replace the filters for your fuel water separators and also the fuel filters on the engine. Most of the engine problems are due to dirty or contaminated fuel. Looking forward to see you guys on your way. Good luck!
Stuck valve caused a bend push rod 😢
It's a damn shame you guys had to leave the boat dry-docked for so long! All the corrosion is a real shame & I'm sure these fixes have been ghastly expensive. I love watching your channel... ⛵
Rod knocking/spun bearing - bummer😬
I agree, at first it was a valve second sound was a rod!
So happy you're back home. Enjoy! Things break then get repaired. (Too over simplified, I know.) But, bottom line, your family is home.
0:35 you left a wrench inside a valve 😂
Just watched a top 40 RUclips sailing vlogs. Congrats on your #8.
Bro whose disliking your vids :C there so ENTERTAINING are u guys not afraid with 1 engine
Wish you the best of luck but im sure you two our tough people and can handle this little set back. Congrats on the new addition to the family 👪she's adorable. Will be pray for you all. Can't wait to see what yoir next adventure brings. God's speed and blessings. I'll be pray n for yall. Great times ahead and you both no its all wwll worth the reward.
If we are guessing, I’m going with something broken in the valve train.
You have engine problems, and I start Radiation treatment for lung cancer this week. Life is full of funky problems. Good luck with getting the rods fixed. Love ya, Ben, Ashley, & Willow.
praying for you Jack
Kaputt. I feel kaputt too
I am so glad to see you guys back on the water been following you every step of the way since fall of 2019, excellent work well done. Thank you for not giving up and continuing this loop. Im a father of four and got interested in sailing in order to get them out in the world to meet people like you guys and experience the cultures of other lands.
Dropped valve, or tapper come loose!
Willa, Happy birthday, cute and pretty lady. You'll be a great sailor someday like your Dad and Mom. God bless.
you can fix that i trust you
The more I watch your videos, the more appreciative I am of your narrative & video skills and your overall living of life. So happy for you and thanks for sharing your journey.
Piston hitting a stuck valve which is now bent, completely mangled bearing or threw a rod if you have a bunch of oil under the engine?
Edit: Winner winner chicken dinner!
You got unlucky and one of the valves was fully open when you shut down and got stuck. Not much you can realistically do to prevent that BUT when you heard the ticking you should have opened the valve cover and soaked the valves in penetrating fluid to try and free it up.
👆 what he said
Thankyou for sharing your journey guys as an avid sailor you giving me that kick up the ass I need to achieve same as you good luck for the future
The dilithium crystals are gonna blow, Cap'n.
"Ye engines canna takes no more, Capn!"
So cool to see you guys back in the water again!
Threw a leg out of bed 😬
Happy First Birthday! Just keep smiling. I love how Willa ate the cupcake!
Sticky valve Run 40 percentage oil additive Wynn's Morley's this would have prevented it will double engine life
Run the additive continuously or just a one shot?
Continuously
No engine requires oil additives. Engine oil is already perfectly slippy and designed to clean and protect. An additive wouldn't have prevented this in any way.
Also your suggestion to "run 40% additive" is utter nonsense. Additives are normally sold in 250ml bottles, and the engine oil capacity will be 4-5L so to run 40% additive would require 2L of additive or 8 bottles.
You're talking out your arse.
For a next time before and after storage, remove the Valve cover and spray some penetrating oil onto the valve stems. Plus use a storage oil or additive. A stuck valve after using penetrating oil, you also can tap lightly with a hammer on the spring.
It is usually the build up of carbon causing the trouble, by running the engine high once in a while you can burn off those build ups. On a Diesel the fuel also lubricates, so to open the fuel valve before starting is a heck of a good idea! And always of coarse check the oil level before starting the engine, make sure it is at its proper mark!
Oooh, the little one needs a safety seat in the cockpit so she can supervise.
After a long period of an engine standing still. Best practice is to turn the engine over by hand 3 or 4 revolution, to make sure everything is free and clear prior to starting. If it does not turn by hand you can rock it to free it up. Hopefully this will avoid any damage when starting. Also doing a pre-start check list would be beneficial, as it has been awhile since you were onboard. So you catch things like closed valves.
Wow, doesn’t sound good. That metallic clanking sounds like something hitting the oil pan or valve cover. That cant be anything good!
Happy Birthday.....Willa.....She eats cake like Ben....awesome
I am glad it is not blown! Pulling for you guys!
Happy birthday to Willow our fave rate sailing baby. ❤️💕
Glad to see you back on Nahoa
Don't beat yourself up ! Hindsight is 20/20 vision ! Good luck with the repair ! At least you have great access to your engine ! That will make things a whole lot easier Cheers
I’m was also allergic to milk and egg but when I turned five I had just grown it away and I believe it will be the same to your kid and even though it's hard I believe you can make it. And happy B day
if you ever have to store your boat again, There is a spray you can get to spray into the air intake to lubricate the face of the valves just before turning off. It will keep the valves from sticking harshly there fore no bent push rods. But even so, its not a big job in most cases to replace the push rod, you simplify loosen up the rocker and push it to the side. then shake and spend and wiggle the push rod until it breaks from the lifter, pull it out the simple slide the new in. just make sure you read the Manuel on how to adjust the rockers.
Had a similar problem after letting our boat sit for about 8 months in Panama. But it had an old Perkins and those old engines were very forgiving and the valve freed up. Boats and engines just don’t like to sit!! We had the same problem. With green slime and mold. Lots of clean up. And always issues. You guys are doing great! I love your third crew member!! And yes, I had a similar incident in fuel management. I forgot to switch fuel tanks and ran one dry while bashing into the Caribbean trade winds with heavy squalls. Big mistake. And of course, only had one engine on our 44’ monohull.
Happy Birthday, Wila!