Although I think I found a solution for the rust problem -that I plan to fix soon, I’d love to hear your feedback if anyone has experience cleaning rusted chains!😊 or should I just get a new chain altogether? 👀
i just bought my first bike, a 2006 SV650s, and it's just the best feeling watching other women learn alongside me. we all start somewhere. your videos are super lovely and enjoyable. thank you for sharing
I respect this woman for getting out there and joining the bike gang. Since I myself started back in April of this year, n thoroughly enjoy it. I ride a Nightster 975 but I was looking at a Honda Rebel initially.
Lubing the chain right after a ride. (Chain will be warm) helps the wax/lube adhere better. It’ll also be dry by the time you go on your next ride and won’t fling off. I’m sure you’ll take better care of the chain than the previous owner.
I would say just by looking at the chain you won't be able to tell whether or not it needs to be changed. Your Honda Rebel came with a sealed O-ring chain which means lubricant is sealed inside O-rings to protect the most critical parts of the chain. Sealed chains last a long time and are quite robust especially when fitted to a bike with a modest power train like your Rebel but you'll want to check a few things. Since you've already taken those first steps of cleaning and lubricating, the next step should be to try to adjust the chain. The proper specification is on the sticker above the expose part of the chain on your bike, on the swingarm. This will help you identify a few potential issues. First if you run out of adjustment because the chain is too long, you'll definitely need to change it as it's been elongated far too much due to age or improper maintenance. This is unlikely. Next, see if the chain slack is consistent through the entire chain. If the difference in slack at different points of the chain is great enough to not allow you to keep the chain slack within specifications throughout the entire chain, you'll want to change it. The chain has elongated unevenly likely due to age or improper maintenance. During this process if you see/feel any kinks in the chain, you'll also want to change the chain. Seal/lubricant is damaged/gone. Cleaning the chain facilitates inspections of the chain. A clean chain also makes it easier for you to spot problems. Keeping debris away from those O-rings will help to prolong the life of the chain as well. Most critical parts of the chain are sealed behind those O-rings as mentioned. Cleaning the chain often allows you to use the mildest cleaners with the lightest cleaning pressures which helps to protect seals and sealed lubricant. Lubricating the chain reduces the wear between the chain and the sprocket, reduces elongation and prevents surface rust. Using lubricants that won't allow debris from sticking to the chain/sprocket (such as Teflon based lubricants) is ideal especially if you intent to keep longer intervals between maintenance. There are many different recommendations for chain maintenance intervals. This may be controversial but you'll have to find a good balance for yourself. What is your time worth versus longevity of the chain. Of course, don't neglect it so much that it becomes a safety hazard but honestly, that takes a LOT of neglect for that to happen. If the surface rust bothers you for any reason (Could be aesthetics, making it harder to spot issues, etc.), changing it certainly wouldn't be a bad thing. You'll want to use at least an O-ring chain of the proper width (length can be adjusted/set when installing a new chain). You can upgrade to a X-ring chain, chains with cut outs (lighter) or any other more elaborate types of chains but I would say you'll run into diminishing returns especially since it's not going on a performance oriented motorcycle. I hope that helps!
Recommendation (riding for 4 years now): (1) purchase “Motul” chain cleaner and lube (road lube), spray chain cleaner, scrub, spray again. Wipe chain cleaner off. Do not wait 60 seconds, just spray and start scrubbing. (2) Do not wipe or dab the “excess” lubricant. You want as much lubricant in the joints/cracks of the chain as possible, dabbing it could dry out the lubricant you just put on. There’s point. Your rims are going to get dirty no matter what. I promise you. (3) Buy a “Bilt” bike cover. Cheap. Reliable. I wish I could give more advice without this being a insanely long paragraph hahaha
Rea, good video on a very important subject, chain cleaning and lubrication. Problem is modern bikes don't have a center stand to raise up the bike and allow chain free movement. Get a motorcycle chain brush that can get into the links. use a degreaser spray, then apply chain lube. I enjoyed the video and it reminds everyone: Clean Your Chain!! 😎
Greetings again from London, Oh the things you learn along the way!! LOl Always keep the chain lubed up, I do mine every 2 weeks, never rusts and in England with our weather, it just becomes second nature! I would replace the chain, as this is always a good idea! Hows the riding training coming?
Thanks so much! & the riding is getting better I think haha I’m super nervous because my MSF course is this week so I’ve been practicing more. I hope to upload Day 5 soon with my progress right before my class!
Hi Rea! Just a heads up: I used the exact same 2 products you used in this video. Both products worked well. However I discovered soon after that WD-40 is the only product you need as it works as a great cleaner and chain lubricant. I’ve researched the application of WD-40 and it turns out that it out performs all the *leading* lube and cleaning products at a much LOWER cost! Been using WD-40 for years now and it works great! Something too thick about! Safe riding!
Worth considering that WD-40 is a water-based penetrant. There's this idea that cleaning your chain is largely aesthetic because the functional parts of the chain are all sealed up and not really vulnerable to the surface rust anyways, but lubricants that are designed to penetrate deep down, like WD-40, can actually get in past the seal and start causing problems moreso than the normal chain cleaners and protective lubricants/waxes.
A valid point! However; it’s water based for a specific reason. Water helps to minimize the thickness and viscosity allowing for better coverage. The elements within w D-40 counteract the water and prevents rust.Seals within the chain are continually compromised from even the softest of chain brushes….. to each their own. 👍
Potential idea for future working on the chain and sprockets. You could get a double leg kickstand which when used will lift the rear wheel completely off the ground. You don't even have to replace the regular kickstand, my uncle has a couple motorcycles with both.
Every 600 miles I use Simple Green to clean and Motul chain paste to lube. The paste isn't as convenient as a spray, but I've been happy with the results. If available, install swingarm spools and get a rear stand to lift the rear tire. Easy DIY project.
Since you don't have a garage I would recommend using any gear oil to lube your chain. 80w-90, 75w-140. It will stay on the chain a very long time. Also when the time comes to clean lube off of your rear wheel cheap dollar store furniture polish is an economical way to clean greasy residue off of about anything with very little labor. It will take off stuff a power washer won't remove and it also acts like a wax for the wheel when your done. If taken care of that original chain can last to about 12-15 thousand miles. A cheap drill with a wire brush will take that rust right off the chain then coat it with the gear oil and wipe off any excess.
If I were you I'd change that chain, and the sprockets, ASAP. Also, fit some bobbins to the rear wheel and get yourself a paddock stand - you'll be able to clean it easier (and do other maintenance too). A good (and cheap!) alternative is to get a piece of 4x4 and prop it under your swing arm on the opposite side to the stand, use this to lift the back wheel just enough to spin it.
One cleaning may not get it all off, but a couple more cleanings might. I suggest cleaning and oiling it a few more times before you consider replacing it, the chain could have some simple surface rust but still have a few thousand miles left in it. Use rubber gloves, keeps the chemicals off your hands. Find out how often Honda recommends oiling the chain. My old Honda was supposed to be every 500 miles. Since you store it outside, you could get a bike cover. Might help with a couple issues. If you can't afford a cover yet, you could get a small piece of plastic to cover the chain when you aren't riding. Whatever you do don't try to use WD-40 as protectant. Since it sits outside you could also oil more often then what is recommended. Careful not to use too much oil or that stuff will fling everywhere when you ride. Oil it well, then use a rag to wipe off excess. Take care of your vehicle and it should take care of you. Happy riding.
Thank you so much for your comment! Yea I was wondering if WD40 should be used at all? I saw some people using it for their bikes on RUclips but I had doubts
@@RidewithRea The WD stands for water displacement. It's purpose is to remove moisture, which includes lubricant. I use it to remove old grease off stuff, but then I add new grease. WD40 would remove the old lube off the chain so you can clean it but you will then have to add new lube after it's clean. Honda makes a Pro Honda Chain Cleaner and Pro Honda Chain Lube. Good luck.
You need a jack stand for your back wheel. Its not hard to lift up ur bike i do it alone but its better with another persons help. You would be able to spin the back wheel and clean the chain with ur other hand using the c brush. Do that for ten to 15 min while giving coats of degreaser. Then put the lube and do the same. Ur chain should look alot cleaner than what u got here. Mines looks new each time i clean it. Its not necessary to buy a new chain and putting the back tire back on can be a pain. Also make sure u check ur tire pressure frequently and dont put too much lube on either. Safe rides and if ur in LA we should ride.
I don't really know how often to clean and lube the chain. I've been told every 300 kilometers but then I also just clean and lube the chain at the end of the week that I rode in the rain with the bike or took it to the wash.
Of course I can't tell from here but it looks like that chain needs to be replaced. I would anyhow being used. You don't even know if the last owner even lubed it occasionally. I would take a good look at the brakes too. I would also check the sprocks . With that much dirt on the chain the sprocks are probably worn.
there is no way a chain thats been properly cleaned and lubed will rust like that just from the rain. Especially when it has a cover. I had my bike outside for 3 years with a cover under rain and snow and it still didnt rust like that,. The previous owner just didnt care or knew what they were doing. Youll need to chain the chain and the sprockets.
If it comes off the rear sprocket as you showed, that chain is toast, you need a new one. The rust should come off, but what's important is the slack and the condition of the rollers, orings/xrings. If it's got seized links and pieces of rubber are falling off, time for a new one, or you'll have to change both sprockets as well, if it runs like this and damages the teeth. 🤭🏍
#1) Does your Chain have a MasterLink (probably not) IF it does simply remove the entire chain & clean it in a tub of Kerosene (wear gloves) #2) Buy yourself a set of Spools (don't call them Bobbins) & a Rear TrackStand (aka paddock stand) more carboard underneath, remove the plastic Chain Guard. When it's that Rusty, I say go with Metal Bristles. (I know someone is going say metal could potentially damage the sealed inside O-rings, but you're so very rusty) #3) SCRUB; Push a serious steel-tooth Brush Harder against the section of the chain that doesn't move or flop, aka Scrub where the chain meets the sprocket. #4) If you decide to buy a New Chain, put great effort into Rusty Prevention, that will save you time, money & effort in the end. (I know this is not your fault)
I hope I didn't go overboard. Us experence Riders love to give advice, but sometimes we do it too much or when it's not needed. You can buy a used Rear Trackstand (as I like to call it) that doesn't even require spools. It will have rubber pads that lift your swing-arm. Or you can even put a car jack under the frame using wood as spacers. What will truly help your chain the most is SCRUBING. May I recommend a video for you to watch.? 🙂
@@AngelFaceMotoRiderno not at all!! I really appreciate all the info I can get since this is all new to me. I find these comments very helpful 😊 and yes! You can recommend any video!! I will watch it :)
@@RidewithRea Since you said you are interested in video recommendations... If you have not already found this awesome Canadian motorcycle channel: Chain cleaner: ruclips.net/video/UrEpAUi_QKA/видео.html Chain lube: ruclips.net/video/VnPYdcbcAe0/видео.html EDIT: As for what I use, I generally clean with WD-40 (depends on the condition of the chain), and lube with Maxima chain wax. My 1990 Yamaha FJ1200 is still on its first chain. Its home has been a garage for all but its first two years (and any multi-day trip).
Put the bike on the MAIN stand (not the side stand), and the rear wheel can be turned by hand (if it's in neutral). You don't need that bit of cardboard. You see where the top chainguard finishes at the back of the wheel? Point your spray tube onto the chain and sprocket at 0degrees angle to the bike at that point - not 90degrees perpendicular. Bit difficult to explain in words. Bit surprised your bf doesn't know this...
why is only the chain rusty kinda seems like it was planted, also modern chains dont need lube they are internaly lubed and adding lube can cause breakdown of the chains seals. cleaning the rust off is the only necessary thing
geeez rusty chain better oily dirty chain than rusty chain :) if u not lazy, clean ur chain with diesel and used tooth brush then lube with any leftover oil u have, or gear oil (better) if u lazy like me, just lube the chain after riding (when the chain still warm) then clean with used clothes or towel there is 125 million motorcycle in my country no need special technology for chain :)
Although I think I found a solution for the rust problem -that I plan to fix soon, I’d love to hear your feedback if anyone has experience cleaning rusted chains!😊
or should I just get a new chain altogether? 👀
no no no :-) the chain is not broken lmao!!!! just lube it.
i just bought my first bike, a 2006 SV650s, and it's just the best feeling watching other women learn alongside me. we all start somewhere. your videos are super lovely and enjoyable. thank you for sharing
That’s amazing!!! & yes it makes me so happy to see other women learning and riding :) thank you so much ☺️
I respect this woman for getting out there and joining the bike gang. Since I myself started back in April of this year, n thoroughly enjoy it. I ride a Nightster 975 but I was looking at a Honda Rebel initially.
Lubing the chain right after a ride. (Chain will be warm) helps the wax/lube adhere better. It’ll also be dry by the time you go on your next ride and won’t fling off. I’m sure you’ll take better care of the chain than the previous owner.
Thank you for the tip☺️👍🏼 I’ll be sure to do that
90 wt gear oil is better
You're much better than me when I rode my Harley for he fist time, 20 years ago... Your footages are entertaining, shout out to REA from Italy!
I appreciate that! Thank you!
I would say just by looking at the chain you won't be able to tell whether or not it needs to be changed.
Your Honda Rebel came with a sealed O-ring chain which means lubricant is sealed inside O-rings to protect the most critical parts of the chain.
Sealed chains last a long time and are quite robust especially when fitted to a bike with a modest power train like your Rebel but you'll want to check a few things.
Since you've already taken those first steps of cleaning and lubricating, the next step should be to try to adjust the chain. The proper specification is on the sticker above the expose part of the chain on your bike, on the swingarm.
This will help you identify a few potential issues.
First if you run out of adjustment because the chain is too long, you'll definitely need to change it as it's been elongated far too much due to age or improper maintenance. This is unlikely.
Next, see if the chain slack is consistent through the entire chain. If the difference in slack at different points of the chain is great enough to not allow you to keep the chain slack within specifications throughout the entire chain, you'll want to change it. The chain has elongated unevenly likely due to age or improper maintenance.
During this process if you see/feel any kinks in the chain, you'll also want to change the chain. Seal/lubricant is damaged/gone.
Cleaning the chain facilitates inspections of the chain. A clean chain also makes it easier for you to spot problems. Keeping debris away from those O-rings will help to prolong the life of the chain as well. Most critical parts of the chain are sealed behind those O-rings as mentioned. Cleaning the chain often allows you to use the mildest cleaners with the lightest cleaning pressures which helps to protect seals and sealed lubricant.
Lubricating the chain reduces the wear between the chain and the sprocket, reduces elongation and prevents surface rust. Using lubricants that won't allow debris from sticking to the chain/sprocket (such as Teflon based lubricants) is ideal especially if you intent to keep longer intervals between maintenance.
There are many different recommendations for chain maintenance intervals. This may be controversial but you'll have to find a good balance for yourself. What is your time worth versus longevity of the chain. Of course, don't neglect it so much that it becomes a safety hazard but honestly, that takes a LOT of neglect for that to happen.
If the surface rust bothers you for any reason (Could be aesthetics, making it harder to spot issues, etc.), changing it certainly wouldn't be a bad thing. You'll want to use at least an O-ring chain of the proper width (length can be adjusted/set when installing a new chain). You can upgrade to a X-ring chain, chains with cut outs (lighter) or any other more elaborate types of chains but I would say you'll run into diminishing returns especially since it's not going on a performance oriented motorcycle.
I hope that helps!
This was extremely helpful! Thank you 😊
You can get a portable lift from Harbor Freight.
Recommendation (riding for 4 years now): (1) purchase “Motul” chain cleaner and lube (road lube), spray chain cleaner, scrub, spray again. Wipe chain cleaner off. Do not wait 60 seconds, just spray and start scrubbing.
(2) Do not wipe or dab the “excess” lubricant. You want as much lubricant in the joints/cracks of the chain as possible, dabbing it could dry out the lubricant you just put on. There’s point. Your rims are going to get dirty no matter what. I promise you.
(3) Buy a “Bilt” bike cover. Cheap. Reliable.
I wish I could give more advice without this being a insanely long paragraph hahaha
You should clean your chain every 2-3 weeks. They’re almost 100% going to tell you to buy a new chain.
I appreciate the advice and I don’t mind if it’s long! I will read it all!😊
Thank you so much!
Hi, again. Hope your riding skill is better than the last video. Chain maintenance is very important yes, but not only clean and lubricate though😉
Thank you for sharing this video. I might get a Rebel also. This information I'll bet will come in handy.
I was gonna comment on the previous video about the chain looking rusty lol
I'm glad you cleaned it, phew :)
Rea, good video on a very important subject, chain cleaning and lubrication. Problem is modern bikes don't have a center stand to raise up the bike and allow chain free movement. Get a motorcycle chain brush that can get into the links. use a degreaser spray, then apply chain lube. I enjoyed the video and it reminds everyone: Clean Your Chain!! 😎
Greetings again from London, Oh the things you learn along the way!! LOl Always keep the chain lubed up, I do mine every 2 weeks, never rusts and in England with our weather, it just becomes second nature! I would replace the chain, as this is always a good idea! Hows the riding training coming?
Thanks so much! & the riding is getting better I think haha I’m super nervous because my MSF course is this week so I’ve been practicing more. I hope to upload Day 5 soon with my progress right before my class!
Hi Rea!
Just a heads up: I used the exact same 2 products you used in this video. Both products worked well. However I discovered soon after that WD-40 is the only product you need as it works as a great cleaner and chain lubricant. I’ve researched the application of WD-40 and it turns out that it out performs all the *leading* lube and cleaning products at a much LOWER cost! Been using WD-40 for years now and it works great! Something too thick about! Safe riding!
Worth considering that WD-40 is a water-based penetrant. There's this idea that cleaning your chain is largely aesthetic because the functional parts of the chain are all sealed up and not really vulnerable to the surface rust anyways, but lubricants that are designed to penetrate deep down, like WD-40, can actually get in past the seal and start causing problems moreso than the normal chain cleaners and protective lubricants/waxes.
A valid point!
However; it’s water based for a specific reason. Water helps to minimize the thickness and viscosity allowing for better coverage. The elements within w D-40 counteract the water and prevents rust.Seals within the chain are continually compromised from even the softest of chain brushes….. to each their own. 👍
Potential idea for future working on the chain and sprockets. You could get a double leg kickstand which when used will lift the rear wheel completely off the ground. You don't even have to replace the regular kickstand, my uncle has a couple motorcycles with both.
Thank you for the video. Good info. I'll be waiting for next video. 👍
Every 600 miles I use Simple Green to clean and Motul chain paste to lube. The paste isn't as convenient as a spray, but I've been happy with the results. If available, install swingarm spools and get a rear stand to lift the rear tire. Easy DIY project.
A greasy chain is a happy chain, especially in the rain.
I have one of those rollers which makes the chain maintenance a lot easier too and its compact too.
Honestly the jack is good thing to have and a time saver, they're not that expensive. And you can clean the chain far more thoroughly.
Since you don't have a garage I would recommend using any gear oil to lube your chain. 80w-90, 75w-140. It will stay on the chain a very long time. Also when the time comes to clean lube off of your rear wheel cheap dollar store furniture polish is an economical way to clean greasy residue off of about anything with very little labor. It will take off stuff a power washer won't remove and it also acts like a wax for the wheel when your done. If taken care of that original chain can last to about 12-15 thousand miles. A cheap drill with a wire brush will take that rust right off the chain then coat it with the gear oil and wipe off any excess.
If I were you I'd change that chain, and the sprockets, ASAP. Also, fit some bobbins to the rear wheel and get yourself a paddock stand - you'll be able to clean it easier (and do other maintenance too). A good (and cheap!) alternative is to get a piece of 4x4 and prop it under your swing arm on the opposite side to the stand, use this to lift the back wheel just enough to spin it.
I second everything said here. Best advice.
Thank you so much!!! :)
That’s seems like a lot that’s too much to remember 😊
One cleaning may not get it all off, but a couple more cleanings might. I suggest cleaning and oiling it a few more times before you consider replacing it, the chain could have some simple surface rust but still have a few thousand miles left in it. Use rubber gloves, keeps the chemicals off your hands. Find out how often Honda recommends oiling the chain. My old Honda was supposed to be every 500 miles. Since you store it outside, you could get a bike cover. Might help with a couple issues. If you can't afford a cover yet, you could get a small piece of plastic to cover the chain when you aren't riding. Whatever you do don't try to use WD-40 as protectant. Since it sits outside you could also oil more often then what is recommended. Careful not to use too much oil or that stuff will fling everywhere when you ride. Oil it well, then use a rag to wipe off excess. Take care of your vehicle and it should take care of you. Happy riding.
Thank you so much for your comment! Yea I was wondering if WD40 should be used at all? I saw some people using it for their bikes on RUclips but I had doubts
@@RidewithRea The WD stands for water displacement. It's purpose is to remove moisture, which includes lubricant. I use it to remove old grease off stuff, but then I add new grease. WD40 would remove the old lube off the chain so you can clean it but you will then have to add new lube after it's clean. Honda makes a Pro Honda Chain Cleaner and Pro Honda Chain Lube. Good luck.
You need a jack stand for your back wheel. Its not hard to lift up ur bike i do it alone but its better with another persons help. You would be able to spin the back wheel and clean the chain with ur other hand using the c brush. Do that for ten to 15 min while giving coats of degreaser. Then put the lube and do the same. Ur chain should look alot cleaner than what u got here. Mines looks new each time i clean it. Its not necessary to buy a new chain and putting the back tire back on can be a pain. Also make sure u check ur tire pressure frequently and dont put too much lube on either. Safe rides and if ur in LA we should ride.
If the previous owner neglected the chain, I wonder what else was overlooked.
If the bike lives outdoors (or just in a humid environment) the chain will rust, unless you bathe it in oil daily.
@@233kosta yes! It’s very humid here and rains often 🥲
I don't really know how often to clean and lube the chain. I've been told every 300 kilometers but then I also just clean and lube the chain at the end of the week that I rode in the rain with the bike or took it to the wash.
Of course I can't tell from here but it looks like that chain needs to be replaced. I would anyhow being used. You don't even know if the last owner even lubed it occasionally. I would take a good look at the brakes too. I would also check the sprocks . With that much dirt on the chain the sprocks are probably worn.
there is no way a chain thats been properly cleaned and lubed will rust like that just from the rain. Especially when it has a cover. I had my bike outside for 3 years with a cover under rain and snow and it still didnt rust like that,. The previous owner just didnt care or knew what they were doing. Youll need to chain the chain and the sprockets.
Need a new riding video soon we wanna the see the progress
I hope to have one uploaded this week!!🎉😊
If it comes off the rear sprocket as you showed, that chain is toast, you need a new one. The rust should come off, but what's important is the slack and the condition of the rollers, orings/xrings. If it's got seized links and pieces of rubber are falling off, time for a new one, or you'll have to change both sprockets as well, if it runs like this and damages the teeth. 🤭🏍
New chain would be good dont need a expensive one for the power of the bike even a factory chain is fine
ACF50 will do away with some of that surface rust. Use a rag, don't spray it on directly.
Paddock stands - Even easier.
❤❤❤❤
#1) Does your Chain have a MasterLink (probably not) IF it does simply remove the entire chain & clean it in a tub of Kerosene (wear gloves)
#2) Buy yourself a set of Spools (don't call them Bobbins) & a Rear TrackStand (aka paddock stand) more carboard underneath, remove the plastic Chain Guard. When it's that Rusty, I say go with Metal Bristles. (I know someone is going say metal could potentially damage the sealed inside O-rings, but you're so very rusty)
#3) SCRUB; Push a serious steel-tooth Brush Harder against the section of the chain that doesn't move or flop, aka Scrub where the chain meets the sprocket.
#4) If you decide to buy a New Chain, put great effort into Rusty Prevention, that will save you time, money & effort in the end. (I know this is not your fault)
Thank you so much for this! This comment was very helpful ☺️
I hope I didn't go overboard. Us experence Riders love to give advice, but sometimes we do it too much or when it's not needed. You can buy a used Rear Trackstand (as I like to call it) that doesn't even require spools. It will have rubber pads that lift your swing-arm. Or you can even put a car jack under the frame using wood as spacers. What will truly help your chain the most is SCRUBING. May I recommend a video for you to watch.? 🙂
@@AngelFaceMotoRiderno not at all!! I really appreciate all the info I can get since this is all new to me. I find these comments very helpful 😊 and yes! You can recommend any video!! I will watch it :)
Chain Cleaners on the "FortNine" MotoChannel
ruclips.net/video/UrEpAUi_QKA/видео.html
@@RidewithRea Since you said you are interested in video recommendations...
If you have not already found this awesome Canadian motorcycle channel:
Chain cleaner: ruclips.net/video/UrEpAUi_QKA/видео.html
Chain lube: ruclips.net/video/VnPYdcbcAe0/видео.html
EDIT: As for what I use, I generally clean with WD-40 (depends on the condition of the chain), and lube with Maxima chain wax. My 1990 Yamaha FJ1200 is still on its first chain. Its home has been a garage for all but its first two years (and any multi-day trip).
I'm kinda'f afraid of those brushes... I started to notice missing O rings on my chain and I think it's from the brush. I am only using rags now.
Oh no 😳 that worries me lol
@@RidewithRea yeah ... I might have been too energetic while using it, you might have a gentler touch:)
Gear oil, no need for the can. of wax
Your so Cute!!
salty air in your region
Put the bike on the MAIN stand (not the side stand), and the rear wheel can be turned by hand (if it's in neutral). You don't need that bit of cardboard. You see where the top chainguard finishes at the back of the wheel? Point your spray tube onto the chain and sprocket at 0degrees angle to the bike at that point - not 90degrees perpendicular. Bit difficult to explain in words. Bit surprised your bf doesn't know this...
why is only the chain rusty kinda seems like it was planted, also modern chains dont need lube they are internaly lubed and adding lube can cause breakdown of the chains seals. cleaning the rust off is the only necessary thing
😘
Chain cleaner wd40
Lube 90 wt gear oil done
geeez rusty chain
better oily dirty chain than rusty chain :)
if u not lazy, clean ur chain with diesel and used tooth brush then lube with any leftover oil u have, or gear oil (better)
if u lazy like me, just lube the chain after riding (when the chain still warm) then clean with used clothes or towel
there is 125 million motorcycle in my country no need special technology for chain :)
Your chain is too tight.
replace it
I'm a Japanese HondaRebel nice👍