How to Stain a Basswood Guitar
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- Опубликовано: 25 апр 2020
- A lot of guitar bodies are made of basswood. Particularly the less expensive ones. In this video we talk about how to stain it so that you can get a nice natural look. First we need to sand through the sealer that comes on most kits and on finished guitars. Then we remove any residue and make sure everything is nice and smooth. Finally, we have to choose our stain and apply it.
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Heads up for anyone using this as a guide: apparently I have been pronouncing basswood wrong most of my life. Don't be like me! (and yes I say it wrong in this video)
I am hoping you have to pronounce "quay" at some point. Will make for a fantastic comments section.
I still say basswood when I'm talking to my guitar buddies I'm pretty sure you're not the only one
You’re not the only one who pronounces it that way, and everyone with a channel that I’ve watched gets comments about it. For me, I know exactly what species of wood you’re talking about so, unless you start calling it something *REALLY* whacky, like “Brazilian/Indian/Honduran Live at the Rosewood Ballroom Mahogany/pau ferro/Rio Grande Palisandro,” you can pronounce “basswood” however you like and I won’t mind. 😂😂
It's because you need a haircut. 😂
It is just your regional western Canadian dialect. I pronounce it the same way as well (I live in the big city south of you).
"Basswood" and "Polish"job!!! Fish and Sausage Guitar.... It's All About That Base Brother...Keep Up The Great Work...
Great job again Brad... Awesome, awesome!
Thanks Jeff!
Great as always Brad.
Thank you
Brad this is great!!! I just ordered some pickups from a local place in Ohio and and about to order the Solo Tele kit. Such a big help!!!
Glad it will be useful for you.
Always enjoy your videos! Would really enjoy a series on putting a top on!
Coming soon!
I'm a big fan of cheap Basswood body's as they take paint very well indeed! And if you get a one piece body they can sometimes have great figuring! Good job Brad! Keep safe brother 💪
Thanks Stu! Take care.
This video came out just in time. Yesterday I finished removing the lacquer and a sealer from my Squier VM Jazz Bass and now I'm thinking about putting something different on it. The body is basswood, very bright creamy color and very soft. Since I'm watching your videos about painting guitar with a spray cans and so on I will use that body to experiment on it and learn. Thank you Brad! BTW watching your videos from the other side of the globe, from Poland.
Thanks Bobby. I’m glad you like the videos.
Hey bro! What did you do to your guitar. I also remove the sealing but not decide what to do
Great video. Very helpful
Glad you think so!
thank you Brad !! it is very interesting !
Glad you liked it!
👍👍Thanks for useful tips and detailed information.
Glad it was helpful!
Very good your work won one more, great guitars
Thanks man
Working on my first kit and literally had this question today after sanding it. How will I know I'm through the sealant from the factory. Thanks for showing this and explaining it! I had to go back at it with a heavier grit. I see you started with 80, whereas I was around 200. I like your explanation about taking off that sheen or slight shine to a very matte true wood look. Thanks Brad! Keep these videos coming! So appreciated during these trying times when we're all doing projects!
Thanks, I’m glad you found it helpful.
Watching ur videos bro make me have those guitars 🎸 ☺️☺️✌️keep it up! Brother
My son and I did a Solo music gear tele stained in purple. It came out great... after re-sanding it about 4 times because of all the sealer spots we missed on previous passes. In particular, the side curves around the horns. Sand, sand, sand.
I’m glad it turned out well. I hate removing sealer from the horn area...
I have 2 basswood guitars but I doubt I'll ever strip them and refinish. Still, I'm watching this in great detail. Thanks, Brad! 👍
FYI hand sanitizer using ethanol should be at least 60% ethanol to kill bacteria, etc... Just saw that somewhere yesterday.
Thanks JC!
Just so you know I tried, I was going to buy Mohawk sanding sealer from here, but you didn't have it listed. Keep up the great videos and I'll keep checking here first before I add any new tools, finishes, etc. to my shop
Thanks, that’s very kind of you. Was there an issue with how they were listed in the amazon link there? I guess their not all in there probably. The funny thing is, if anyone goes through my link and then searches anything else and buys it I get credit haha. Someone picked up a unicorn princess toy that way the other day and it counted.
@@BradAngove I'll remember that!
My Fender Telecaster bass is made from Bsswood. Still heavier than my Les Paul, I bought it a few years ago the day it was put out for sale after being in the storage of a local indie store I’ve ben buying from since 1984. It was a special order, and never picked up. Also have read that Jeff Beck’s #1 white Strat is also made from Bsswood.
Nice. There’s no reason not to make a solid body electric from basswood particularly if it’s being painted opaque. It’s a bit of a softer wood, but that doesn’t hurt anything. Its not like it changes the sound in a way that we can really perceive.
Hi Brad try Angelus Leather Dyes such great strong colours and blends brilliantly. I’ve tried the Blue Red Yellow Green Black and Purple.
Yes, the Angelus dyes are nice. Derek over at BigDGuitars uses them all the time.
Ok just hadn’t seen you use for vivid colours
Thanks
It’s not what I generally use for vivid colors either, but it’s a good product.
Mine looks Great but it took Massive Amounts of Grain Filler to get it to workable Smooth, but grain and weight with a Amber tinted to Mahogany usually best finish
Great video! I'd like to see a follow up video on how to finish it. Polyurethane or what would you recommend for "basswood"? :) Thank you
There are a large number of finishes that would work depending on what you’re after.
A good tip for anyone looking to stain a cheaper guitar with filler/sealer just wipe some water on the guitar to see where the water soaks in and discolors the wood to make sure you don't have any areas where you maybe didn't get all the sealer off nothing like staining the whole body just to find places where you didn't sand through all the sealer it can be pretty rough to get through it on some guitars and sorta hard to see sometimes just let the water show you where to sand and let it dry before staining
Yes, that works well. The lacquer thinner can also serve that purpose if you’re doing a solvent wipe at the end.
Ya a thinner will dissolve faster and allow you to get back to work faster
I'm about ready to try staining a tele body amber... wish me luck.
Good luck. Have fun with it.
Hey Brad, I will be doing a Mango wood strat body kit, and I wonder what colour should be most appealing in terms of staining. The pickguards will be black and the neck is maple. Thanks mate!
There are tons of options. It's just comes down to personal preference. You can also use a more vibrant dye if that is your preference.
when faced with a light piece of wood in an otherwise well matched top. you can just mask off the darker portion and apply a darker, mix of your dye (more pigment less water/alcohol) to better match the pieces. I've done this a number of times with good results.
Nice. I’m glad to hear that has worked for you.
Another awesome video. Thanks so much! What would be a good finish for basswood after the staining (as it tends to dent quite easily)
Are you looking for something very hard that adds some durability?
Yes sir any sugeations would be appreciated.
You should probably aim for a 2 part finish. There are several options. Epoxy, catalyzed polyurethane, or polyester are good options.
Thanks Brad. I was leaning very strongly towards poly. Lol since I have your approval, i will try that. Keep up the great work man.
Hello Brad. Back to the Frankenhondo. Not being familiar with different woods used in guitar bodies, is there a guide or something that would help me identify what I have?
There probably is somewhere, but I haven't seen one.
Hi Brad. Great video and exactly what i was looking for...almost. i have a basswood kit that it indeed sealed. This one os laser engraved Paisley pattern on the front. I was thinking of hitting the front with a poly lacquer black and yhen sanding back the raised parts. Then apply Angelus dye. That was what Derek at Big D did but frustratingly he keft out the actual sanding process. I'll wing it. Question about ckear coat. I am a recent convert to Spraymax 2K. Can i use that over the Mohawk dyes? Should i seal it before i clear coat? Thanks
I have a solo kit that I'm doing....my question is, can I dye the maple top and get a burst, even though the veneer is so thin. There is no thickness to the veneer, so sanding the dye back will just go through the top veneer. Will 000 steel wool work or is this just not possible. Any idea's.
You can dye it and do a burst. I would avoid trying to do a sand-back finish on a veneer though. You can use steel wool a little bit, but I’m not sure I understand what you plan to use it for.
Build question for Brad or anyone:
Building a telecaster. Almost decided to forgo the drilling for the through stringing on the bridge. Just went to Lowe’s and the didn’t have drill guides or the portable drill press... probably going to order those from brads link. But could I do my dye and finish before that? Really want to work on it now and don’t want to wait two weeks for shipping. Would drilling string holes after dye be bad? How bout even after a wipe on poly finish? Thanks in advance for any responses.
After dye will be fine. After finish gets a bit riskier. If you’re careful it can work, but you definitely risk harming the finish with the guide etc.
Hi Brad. Love your videos. They are really helping me. I just stained a basswood body. Can I put a water based polyurethane over Danish oil? That was my plan, but I wanna be sure. Cheers.
Really that combination should not work. I have found danish oil to play well with other finishes, but I would say at least use an oil based poly with it.
Hey Brad, thanks for all the guitar building videos. I'm thinking about ordering a Solo kit through your link. The one I like though is the hollowbody tele (the one with 2 f holes). I can finish the basswood back and sides like this video, but I don't know about the poly on the maple veneer top. I'd like to do a light stain with a satin oil finish over it, but I'm afraid of sanding through the veneer or delaminating it with a chemical stripper. Any suggestions?
rene croteau I built that guitar. Sanding the sealer off the veneer is tricky business. Yes you have to be really careful you don’t go right through it. And mine had a couple glues spots that had to be sanded even more so it would take the stain. And in the end you get a guitar with some serious neck dive. I had bought some nice tuners to go on it but ended up removing them because they were heavy and made the dive worse.
Just sand carefully. If there are glue lines, use a bit of solvent and a toothbrush to try to remove them. I’m not sure the flamed maple veneers come with sealer in them.
If you’re having trouble with neck dive you can sometimes alleviate that before the finishing work by repositioning your strap buttons.
Mine had sealer on the maple veneer, and wouldn’t take stain hardly at all until I removed it. It was the first kit I did, and that strap button taught me to check for such things before doing all the finishing :)
First of all, thanks for the info Greg. I definitely would not have thought to check the balance of the guitar and reposition the strap buttons if you hadn't brought it up. It's a great help to have someone who's built that model share their experience.
For the original question, you both seem to think that it will be OK if I go slowly hand sanding and look for the glue. I've got a can of mineral spirits hanging around, would that help dissolve the glue spots?
Oh, I forgot to say thanks to you too Brad for your quick reply.
Hey, for some reason I thought you had a link to Solo for ordering kits. Maybe I got it confused with your Amazon links, but I can't find it now. If you can get some kind of a commission or something from Solo, I'd be happy to order through you.
I've been using True Oil to protect/finish my guitar projects after staining, but unfortunately it looks like Birchwood Casey no longer makes True Oil the way it used to. What would you recommend to protect/finish basswood after staining?
For a similar finish to tru-oil I would use modified tung oil.
Im planning on ordering 6 or 7 various guitar kits, (I'll be using your link) but I want to know what the best way/product to get vibrant colors on the wood like greens, blues, purples, like alot of the LPs Darryl B uses in his videos
Im most familiar with poly stains on birch and cedar in furniture I used to make by hand, never used colors
Hi brad thanks for the videos.
Have a couple of question :
How long between each coat of stain?
If I decide use 2k spraymax clear coat(the exact one you use) as the
Finish,how long do I need to leave the stain to cure? Also do I need to light sand the stain before clear coat?
Many thanks
What kind of stain are you using? For this water based stain I waited about 15-20 minutes between applications. If there’s raised grain you should sand it off before clear coating. Give the stain a few days to dry out completely before that step.
@@BradAngove I believe it's water base. It's what's available in uk really.
Here's the link:
www.crimsonguitars.com/collections/finishing/products/stunning-stains
@@BradAngove thanks again, I'll do what you said and if any question I'll ask you. I really appreciate your responses.
it’s pronounced basswood, not basswood :)
jk, great video!
Apparently I've been pronouncing this wrong for over a decade haha.
I been Painting & Finishing since 1972 if you're staining dissimilar pieces of Bare Wood use a Shellac Wash. Apply 1 thin coat of Zinsser Seal Coat ( it's a 2lb cut 100% wax free Shellac) using a Wooster Yachtsman 2" or 2-1/2" White China Bristle Stain & Varnish Brush. Clean/wash Your Brush with Denatured Alcohol. This Shellac Wash might sound Crazy, but it works like a Pre-stain only better. Apply Your Zinsser Seal Coat Shellac Wash then lightly sand Your Wood with a 320-400 sanding Sponge just enough to knock the raised grain off. Shellac barely raises the grain so You'll barely have to sand. Do not wear thru Your Shellac Wash. Applying a Shellac Wash before Staining Controls the penetration of Your Stain or Dye disguising the different color pieces of wood and giving you a uniform color. You need to apply you were staying or die with a brush not wiped on with the rag and not wiped off afterwards. If you're using something like Minwax stain and it's too dark when you applied with a brush then you can take some natural Minwax which is just to clear oil the stains made from and mix it until you lighten up your stain to wear the color is the color you want when applied with a brush keeping in mind that a brush applied stain or die will come out much darker than applying it with a rag. the point of using the brush is after you have your shellac wash on you can brush it on there and you won't be able to tell that you have different colors of wood because the shellac wash controls to penetration and applying the coat with the brush helps this even more. after you have applied Your Stain or Dye spray 1 or 2 coats of sealer. Zinsser Seal Coat is the Best and comes in a spray can. Spraying Your Sealer locks in Your Colour. A Brush can sometimes move Your Stain or Dye around but Seal Coat as a Shellac Wash is Best Applied with a Wooster Yachtsman Brush as is Your Stain also. Wax Free Shellac like Seal Coat is the Best Sealer and it's a great Barrier Coat over old Finishes, Paint, Stain, Lacquer, Varnish, etc because Shellac sticks to anything and anything sticks to Wax Free Shellac
God Bless!!
Jimmy in NC....
(910)-818-3279
Call anytime 24/7/365
good tip Jimmy. thanks.
@@BradAngove I've worked with coatings all My life. Born July 4th, 1963. I started helping My Grandfather in 1972 and I've been a professional since 1980. Use Shellac Wash as a Pre-stain before (under) Stain if You're trying to hide dissimilar colours of Wood. Using Seal Coat on top of Your Stain as a sealer and You'll find it barely raises the Grain requiring very little sanding and it makes Your top coats lay down much better. I can make Polyurethane look like dipped ceramic glaze using a Wooster Yachtsman Marine Varnish Brush when going over Zinsser Seal Coat as My sealer coat. It's also a great Barrier Coat between dissimilar finishes. If You ever run into anything that You aren't quite sure of feel free to Me anytime 24/7/365 at (910)-818-3279
God Bless,
Jimmy in NC....
Hi Brad. I have just prepared a Basswood guitar body for finishing and I am going to use Angelus Leather dye for the colour. I am concerned with splotchiness with the colour on the Basswood. I was thinking of using the violin makers technique of applying gelatin to the wood first to seal it, and then apply the dye. Do think this will work or could there be problems. Normally I would experiment first with a piece of scrap wood, but unfortunately I do not have any scrape pieces of Basswood to test. Any opinion would be helpful. Thanks for the great videos.
I’m not familiar with the violin technique, but a thin layer of dewaxed shellac can help prevent splotchiness and as long as you keep it thin it shouldn’t prevent you from being able to stain.
Thanks for the info. I went ahead and did it without a base and so far only a few small splotches. Using Angelus navy blue as the base and the the lighter blue after sanding the navy blue back. The surprise was the Navy Blue turned out more purple than blue before sanding
A lot of navy is heavy on the purple. You may want to consider mixing the two blues together a bit if you don’t like that.
On a basswood body like this with not a lot of grain pattern visible, is it possible (does it work) to use the “stain black and sand down” trick to see more of the grain? Thanks man, great videos.
It doesn’t really do much in this type of grain pattern. Mostly just seems to make it look dirty.
@@BradAngove Thanks!
I haven't tried it yet because I don't have 10 kit guitars like you do, but you might try bleaching the darker pieces of basswood to a lighter shade so they match better. In fact I think you should try it and make a video about it.
Using acid?
@@BradAngove Wood Bleach. There are several videos here on YT for bleaching wood but none of them are guitar related. And it usually involves peroxide and some type of acid.
I think I’ve seen it done what oxacylic acid or something like that.
Is there one for mahogany? Body.
The same concepts apply to mahogany.
Hey Brad, if I sent you a picture of the guitar I am looking to project could I get some advice regarding sanding and the kind of stain I plan to use? It was my dad's guitar and while your videos are helpful I'm not confident that I know what I'm doing yet lol
You can send me a picture using the Facebook or Instagram links in the description.
can i mix it with acrylic paint?
I suspect you probably could, but I’ve never tried.
hey brad, love your videos, looking to start my DIY guitar kit from solo very soon, just trying to line up all the materials i need. Since you are in Canada i favour your guidance over your american friends due to availability of dyes, stains, and finishes. I live in Toronto, and most of the products from your amazon link states, "currently, there are no sellers that can deliver this item to your location". How are you getting these products? What do you suggest? Thanks.
Hi Roger, do you know what you’re looking for in particular?
@@BradAngove hey, i was looking for the powder stain from mohawk that you used in this video, but there are no sellers from amazon, and the colortone liquid stain is also not available in my area. looking for dyes or stains, sanding sealer and a clear gloss lacquer. Any direction will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for replying to my comment.
Does okoume wood need to be grain filled before finishing? I know I have to for mahogany.
For basswood I usually don't. You certainly can, but if it's sanded smooth I don't find it necessary. Okoume is open grain for the most part, so I would.
Thanks Bro,
Brad, you are my go to guy for finishing guitars. Yes there are tons of forums I've looked through but I just need a straight answer and not a dissertation.
One of these days I need to find time to post some of these videos in the forums to help people out haha.
I have used two kit guitar basswood bodies but used warmoth necks on them, they came out really nice. But now I want to build another one and use the neck that comes with. Is it feasable to use the necks that come with after a re radius and fret upgrade?
I think the necks are basswood too and it seems very soft. Wondering if anyone else has used them. Thanks.
The necks are largely maple I think. They work fine with a little work.
@@BradAngove OK, great, thanks.
After applying the stain/dye, and the project is thoroughly dry should the sanding sealer be applied over that to seal the stain? Or should the next application be the clearcoat. Thanks for the lesson!
It’s generally best to do the sealer first then the clear coat. Sealer helps prevent you from needing so much clear.
Do you think I could skip the sealer since the body is basswood, do the stain, and apply as much clearcoat as I want.@@BradAngove
You could. It would just mean you would need more ear. So it’s more work and generally more expensive.
Brad, I applied the stain and the application turned out a lot better than I had expected. Thanks for your direction. I just watched your clearcoat, lacquer thinner and white tint mix. Great lesson/tutorial. That will be one of the other processes I will apply to this guitar, Thanks. Greg@@BradAngove
Great video Brad. I'm getting a kit with basswood body and ash veneer which I assume will be paper thin. I'd like to sand and stain it like you did here but don't want to sand through the veneer. Any thoughts on how to manage this? I'm thinking lightly sanding with 150 then 220 grit then use my water based tinted stain. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Is it the ash burl veneer?
@@BradAngove yes it is an ash burl veneer.
@@BradAngove the kit is actually an ibanez jem style kit with basswood body and ash burl veneer. If I sand that veneer I'm afraid I might ruin that veneer. Any advice you can offer would be great! Thanks
Have you seen my series on the telecaster kit I did with the ash burl veneer?
@@BradAngove didn't know you did one. I'll check it out. Thanks!
Bro, do you think ots a good idea to stain a poplar guitar?
I don’t see why not.
I've heard some people complain about streaks. I would try anyway, because some people complain about anything, often without knowing for sure. Did you try it yet, René?
I have a basswood guitar with a flamed maple veneer with a satin poly finish.. and I want to dye it any tips?
If it’s already got a finish you may not be able to do that. Removing the finish fully enough to dye would also risk removing the veneer. Have you considered using a transparent tinted spray instead?
@@BradAngove thanks for the reply, I guess I'll look into that spray. Thanks.
@@BradAngove do you happen to know any brands you might recommend?
I’m fond of the toner lacquer from Mohawk.
Can i use nitrocellulose varnish as a sealer? Please reply
Dude, how many of my videos did you leave this comment on?
@@asimhussain8716 why?
Why remove the sealer? You don't need the stain to soak into the wood. Stain can be applied over a sealer. How's how finishes are done on other wood instruments like violins. That also makes it easier to fix or change in the future. If you soak the stain into the wood, then it's effectively permanent.
Did you watch the whole video? I demonstrated what happens when you try it without removing sealer. Stain is supposed to soak in so that it can stain. That’s the point.
Brad
Honest question as I'm not sure is this not bass wood name and pronounced like the wide mouth bass the fish?
Could be a Canadian pronunciation. . . . Anyhow love your vlogs. I know in bass wood said fish name or is it basewood and I'm not aware of this so many exotic and different woods some I rarely run across as they are REALLY high dollar.
Once I put gold handles on a solid ebony cabinet in a oil executives personal office zero error day on that one absolute perfection a must. Solid gold pulls and handles and a many hundred thousand dollar cabinet. Gulp
Best David
Alas for now my work is more humble. Hoping to get back into that kind of work again soon.
Hello! can i email you and can i ask for a favor to specify my guitar body if which type of wood is it. thank you! anyway, i’m a subscriber for a long time! 🙋♂️
The easiest way to send me photos is through the Facebook or Instagram links in the description of the video.
Hey Brad! Thanks to your video guide and personal advice, my first build was a success. We raffled off the guitar (named Lexi after our late niece) and raised more than $1500 for the American Cancer Society! So, I bought two more Tele kits from Solo. One is a mahogany body, the other a basswood. I have a plan for the mahogany body, but I'm curious to know of it is possible to ceruse the basswood body. Does cerusing only work on open grain woods?
I believe the ceruse technique only works, in the way that we are familiar with it, on open grain woods. You may be able to get an interesting textured finish using the same technique on basswood though.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the advice. I think I'll save trying out cerusing until I buy another mahogany body.
Brad....which type of sander would work the best to sand the body? A rotary or a vibrating one. Thanks for you videos. I really enjoy them.
I always find the rotary ones more effective and efficient personally.
@@BradAngove Thank you for your response. Hope you are staying safe.
Staining starts at 10:20
Yes, after a significant amount of important prep information.
Seal first, sand, then stain...?👍
Here you go: ruclips.net/video/jqJaJ2anL7M/видео.html
@@BradAngove Thanks for the link!
Everclear? You mean the 180 proof liquor?
Yes.
Brad Angove Awesome! But like I needed another excuse to buy liquor…😂
Dude you'd better hope your wife doesn't catch you using her measuring spoons! Lol
She was very confused when I picked those up. A plastic set for powders and a stainless set for paint. Gave me a pretty funny look.
Just saw Grammar police attacking you, next they will accuse you of not turning your toilet paper in Right Direction. when will the Pettiness end and People Appreciate those like you trying to Help Others. Keep up the ZGreat Work and Watch out for the Thought Police and keep making these Fun and Entertaining
i'd suggest cutting the low end out of your audio. very boomy. should clean up the audio nicely :)
I need to get around to making a separate mastering preset for my voiceover mic for sure. The one for my lav mic does sound very low end heavy on that guy. Thanks.
@@BradAngove I watch/listen through an old 80s hifi...it stuck out to me.
Basswood....pronounced like the fish, not the instrument
Thank you. He IS Canadian, tho...😁👍
@@salmonline It's aboot time someone brought that up.
I've literally been saying this wrong for 12 years haha.
This is almost unwatchable for me because of the constant mispronunciation 🤣🤣
Бля, как же они по3,14здеть любят🤦♂️
Lesson is don't stain Basswood that does not look good. thanks
Ya, you don’t want to be staining a multi laminate body like this one haha.
I thought it was just the Canadian way of saying it. Lol
Probably not haha. Although I was sure I heard it that was at the lumber yard a few years back (quite a few years).
How to stain a guitar? First, buy some stain. Then stain it. Problem solved.
Haha what a silly comment. That’s like saying “how to build a car? First buy car parts, then build it.”
You talk way to much...
This is how you spend your time? You need a hobby sir.
Its pronounced like the fish BASS
Not the instrument. Truth
I’ve heard this. Thank you for the clarification.