I'm 100% with you on loving where we are today. I grew up on Autodesk AutoCAD, so when I first got a 3D printer, I didn't even want to use the thing. Sketchup was soooo painful. Fusion360 has quite a learning curve, but it makes a ton more sense coming from an engineering background. Sketchup seems to be ok for people that didn't know how to use CAD properly prior to using it. I haven't put the CAM into use yet, since I'm retrofitting an old Bridgeport Boss 2 CNC still, but love learning about the CAM through your videos. Thanks! And I know Fusion pays attention here too, so Thanks Autodesk! Life improved!
that trick putting the WCS on the back jaw of the vise is AWESOME!! My machine supports a probe but I don't have one so that will save me a lot of time
You along with John Grimsmo have done so much for the community just wanted to say thanks. Just built my own cnc from a optimum bf20l for knife making - nyatiblades and will have linear rails. Keep it up mate all the best from Australia 🇦🇺.
Hi John, if spindle did not want to start after tool change, its because of the bug Tormach has in software that they have not fixed yet. It has to do with the spindle door clicking the safety switch on the door on and off in rapid succession which confuses the software. You don't have to reboot machine usually you simply open the door wait a bit and then close it again. If you make sure that this on/off clicking does not happen just pay attention to how you close the door so when you close it you don't trigger the switch on/off cycle. I have emailed Tormach months ago about this and so far they have not fixed it.
Nice work. I noticed some spin up of the spindle when initially contacting the softjaws. Adding in a G4 (dwell) followed by a P4.0 or similar (time in seconds or possibly miliseconds depending on control configuration) will enable the spindle to be at full speed before contacting the part.
I generally don't clamp parts off center of the vise because it makes the vise not have equal clamping force. might run into issues in longer runs, I haven't tried tho, was just told this from the get go
You know what I'm gonna say.... VISE HANDLE! You can get away with it on the tormachs since they don't have much acceleration. You do that on your new HAAS though and you'll find out how much a new door or piece of safety glass costs...
Hey John, another great video. If I were you, I'd make a small modification on your softjaws. Basically, you have milled the jaw to-dimension of the "F" model. Since none of the EMs actually have a "0" edge radius, actually if by any chance someone mills and does not chamfer the edge and places that model in the cavity it will most certainly sit a bit above the bottom edge and it could also be a wee bit skewed. That can be avoided by running a small EM, say 2mm dia, along the perimeter (say 0.1mm from the edge, or along the edge), with a depth of .2mm or more. That will leave you with a slot around 2mm wide on the edge and will tolerate a few burrs, non chamfered edges and will be more precise since now the base will actually sit flat (or in its shape) accurately. I use this technique for all my machining jigs.
Naresh Sharma I do the same thing for parts with sharp edges. But in this case the first op put a heavy chamfer on. More than enough to clear any corner radius in the bottom of op 2's pocket. So channeling the op2 pocket isn't needed here. There's also an easier way than channeling for small parts like this. Just cut 3 pieces of .005 ( .01 if its particularly ugly) shim stock and place it in 3 positions in the pocket. It'll jack the part up precisely and clear the corner radius. And no worries about breaking a tiny endmill in the floor of your softjaws.
Occams Swazall, yes the shimming way would be the way to go if you'd forgotten to place the channeling. If you're into onesies and twosies then that would be perfect, but if you're showing this as a technique to make soft jaws, its necessary to put a channel. How many shims will you cut anyway? Remember cutting shims using a shear will take them off size, you'll need to grind them to size ;-)
11:04 That spindle sounded slow. Pretty sure that spindle and or tool can handle more abuse than you can think it can John. Which is nice to know, for a little 440. Give a try to feed faster or bury the cut more. :)
John, congrats on the teaching gig! Way to go! I note that with the soft jaw design as shown, the part rotates front to back when flipped. That means that what was machined on the front side ends up against the back jaw for the second operation. In this case it probably doesn't matter, but if it was a precision part, wouldn't it be better to keep the back edge at the back for both ops? I.e flip it over the end, y axis, rather than around centerline, X axis? Thanks for the edutainment! -- Mike
Not to try to tell a guy his business but I'm curious as to why you use a different angle spot drill than your twist drills? I've heard that it's better to use the same angle on your drills as your spot drills but I've seen people use both.
If time was a concern why not mill the jaws such that you could have both operations going at once? Would save some time and tool changes. As someone who owns a simple gantry style cnc and is looking to take it to the next level, would you recommend the 440?
Any particular reason why the parallel path was done on the XY direction? Or is just a style preference? Could have easily use a path that does pretty much all cutting along the X, and the stepover is the Y. The posted code is bit smaller with mostly XZ, and maybe faster for the controller to go through it. (Not that the Tormach is fast enough to to start choking code, but that's besides the point. ;P)
great video 😀 and good question 'is a used CNC viable for the hobbiest? ' I love the finish a fly cutter can leave. Can I show you a pic of my homemade fly cutter in action?
does a hobby need to be viable? you invest in your skills and the possibilities of your workshop - a used CNC starts at 5 grand, but you need another 10 for transport setup and tools ;) and you will invest in tools all the time, because you never have all tools you need ;)
So, what if you wanted to run both ops simultaneously? Do you have to machine the blank to fit properly? Do you have to do some extra work in Fusion 360 to make sure you don't hit the other part? Thx!
What is your recommendations for reducing line count on a program? I have a Bridgeport that uses a TNC 370 control and I am limited to around 6000 lines of code. I am trying to avoid drip feeding as much as possible.
I've actually been thinking about using soft jaws for an ongoing project I have going right now. Do you have to do anything special to align the two jaws if you take them off and put them back on? Everytime I've used them, I have never removed them until the project is over.
Is the spindle error you talk about that it begins milling while the spindle still is ramping the rpm up? Because it really should ramp all the way up before starting operation.
I'd be curious on the "fix".. I've been manually adding delays after spindle-start for gcode created via conversational, and for Fusion360 generated code there is a dwell added after each spindle on command.
I fixed mine by enabling a DO on my VFD and modifying the ladder on my machine. When a M3 or M4 SXXXX is commanded, the controller won't acknowledge the completion of the execution of that M code until the controller sees a signal from the VFD "spindle at speed". Once that signal is acknowledged then the M3_DONE bit is enabled and the controller executes the next line of G code. This allows the spindle to completely accelerate before the machine does anything else.
Hi John, you should really consider hitting bit higher f stop on your camera that is filming the action, the focus area is quite small as it is currently set up.
Another great video thx. Hope this is ok...but here is a link to an awesome video series on buying a used CNC. ruclips.net/video/WH20etJpizE/видео.html The videos are very well thought out and there are a bunch of other very informative videos on CNC set up, leveling, programming...etc Oh there is machining as well !!!
I'm 100% with you on loving where we are today. I grew up on Autodesk AutoCAD, so when I first got a 3D printer, I didn't even want to use the thing. Sketchup was soooo painful. Fusion360 has quite a learning curve, but it makes a ton more sense coming from an engineering background. Sketchup seems to be ok for people that didn't know how to use CAD properly prior to using it. I haven't put the CAM into use yet, since I'm retrofitting an old Bridgeport Boss 2 CNC still, but love learning about the CAM through your videos. Thanks! And I know Fusion pays attention here too, so Thanks Autodesk! Life improved!
Good luck in Vegas! It's cool to see Autodesk looking your way to demo their software.
that trick putting the WCS on the back jaw of the vise is AWESOME!! My machine supports a probe but I don't have one so that will save me a lot of time
You along with John Grimsmo have done so much for the community just wanted to say thanks. Just built my own cnc from a optimum bf20l for knife making - nyatiblades and will have linear rails. Keep it up mate all the best from Australia 🇦🇺.
Hi John, if spindle did not want to start after tool change, its because of the bug Tormach has in software that they have not fixed yet. It has to do with the spindle door clicking the safety switch on the door on and off in rapid succession which confuses the software. You don't have to reboot machine usually you simply open the door wait a bit and then close it again.
If you make sure that this on/off clicking does not happen just pay attention to how you close the door so when you close it you don't trigger the switch on/off cycle.
I have emailed Tormach months ago about this and so far they have not fixed it.
You like that flycutter? You'll frigging LOVE a Coromill Century with PCD inserts.
I'm listening to your spindle ramp up to speed WHILE cutting. Do you have any concerns? Aaaaaand you just mentioned it while I was typing. K Bye!
Nice work. I noticed some spin up of the spindle when initially contacting the softjaws. Adding in a G4 (dwell) followed by a P4.0 or similar (time in seconds or possibly miliseconds depending on control configuration) will enable the spindle to be at full speed before contacting the part.
PREACH ON! I'm DYING to get the PDB for the 440.... it's such a hassle switching tools, especially when doing larger runs of parts.
Parallel ball end mill finish at 90 deg angles is a nice go to finish that will run with the lights off. Go home and come back in the morning.
Grabbed the files! Looking forward to running it for myself...
Thanks, John! I'm sure this will be a big hit at AU this year.
Sincerely,
Tom Z
I generally don't clamp parts off center of the vise because it makes the vise not have equal clamping force. might run into issues in longer runs, I haven't tried tho, was just told this from the get go
You know what I'm gonna say.... VISE HANDLE!
You can get away with it on the tormachs since they don't have much acceleration. You do that on your new HAAS though and you'll find out how much a new door or piece of safety glass costs...
And underwear :P
bensbenz
Always a spare pair in the bottom drawer XD
what do you mean vise handle?
Tim Wolf
To never ever leave the vise handle on the vise while the machine is running.
John has a bad habit of doing that...
that's what I thought you meant, just making sure :)
Maybe some canned air dusters to go with the paint brushes for chip removal?
When I'm finishing a 3d surface I really like to use the 3d ramp tool path. It uses very little air moves.
Hey John, another great video.
If I were you, I'd make a small modification on your softjaws. Basically, you have milled the jaw to-dimension of the "F" model. Since none of the EMs actually have a "0" edge radius, actually if by any chance someone mills and does not chamfer the edge and places that model in the cavity it will most certainly sit a bit above the bottom edge and it could also be a wee bit skewed. That can be avoided by running a small EM, say 2mm dia, along the perimeter (say 0.1mm from the edge, or along the edge), with a depth of .2mm or more. That will leave you with a slot around 2mm wide on the edge and will tolerate a few burrs, non chamfered edges and will be more precise since now the base will actually sit flat (or in its shape) accurately. I use this technique for all my machining jigs.
Naresh Sharma
I do the same thing for parts with sharp edges. But in this case the first op put a heavy chamfer on. More than enough to clear any corner radius in the bottom of op 2's pocket. So channeling the op2 pocket isn't needed here.
There's also an easier way than channeling for small parts like this. Just cut 3 pieces of .005 ( .01 if its particularly ugly) shim stock and place it in 3 positions in the pocket. It'll jack the part up precisely and clear the corner radius. And no worries about breaking a tiny endmill in the floor of your softjaws.
Occams Swazall, yes the shimming way would be the way to go if you'd forgotten to place the channeling. If you're into onesies and twosies then that would be perfect, but if you're showing this as a technique to make soft jaws, its necessary to put a channel. How many shims will you cut anyway? Remember cutting shims using a shear will take them off size, you'll need to grind them to size ;-)
You should wear that around on a neckless...Fusion FanBoy!
11:04 That spindle sounded slow. Pretty sure that spindle and or tool can handle more abuse than you can think it can John. Which is nice to know, for a little 440. Give a try to feed faster or bury the cut more. :)
John, congrats on the teaching gig! Way to go!
I note that with the soft jaw design as shown, the part rotates front to back when flipped. That means that what was machined on the front side ends up against the back jaw for the second operation. In this case it probably doesn't matter, but if it was a precision part, wouldn't it be better to keep the back edge at the back for both ops? I.e flip it over the end, y axis, rather than around centerline, X axis?
Thanks for the edutainment!
-- Mike
Not to try to tell a guy his business but I'm curious as to why you use a different angle spot drill than your twist drills? I've heard that it's better to use the same angle on your drills as your spot drills but I've seen people use both.
If time was a concern why not mill the jaws such that you could have both operations going at once? Would save some time and tool changes. As someone who owns a simple gantry style cnc and is looking to take it to the next level, would you recommend the 440?
Neat to see more on making dog tags! :-)
Any particular reason why the parallel path was done on the XY direction? Or is just a style preference?
Could have easily use a path that does pretty much all cutting along the X, and the stepover is the Y. The posted code is bit smaller with mostly XZ, and maybe faster for the controller to go through it. (Not that the Tormach is fast enough to to start choking code, but that's besides the point. ;P)
I have a video idea: grind some metal on the surface grinder, but film it with a strobe light...
great video 😀 and good question 'is a used CNC viable for the hobbiest? '
I love the finish a fly cutter can leave. Can I show you a pic of my homemade fly cutter in action?
does a hobby need to be viable? you invest in your skills and the possibilities of your workshop -
a used CNC starts at 5 grand, but you need another 10 for transport setup and tools ;) and you will invest in tools all the time, because you never have all tools you need ;)
So, what if you wanted to run both ops simultaneously? Do you have to machine the blank to fit properly? Do you have to do some extra work in Fusion 360 to make sure you don't hit the other part? Thx!
What is your recommendations for reducing line count on a program? I have a Bridgeport that uses a TNC 370 control and I am limited to around 6000 lines of code. I am trying to avoid drip feeding as much as possible.
THAT SO COOL.
I've actually been thinking about using soft jaws for an ongoing project I have going right now. Do you have to do anything special to align the two jaws if you take them off and put them back on? Everytime I've used them, I have never removed them until the project is over.
what is that finish parallel toolpath Feed per tooth and stepover??
What's the tolerance between the part and the jaws ? Is there a tutorial around that shows how to "cut" the model into the jaws in CAD ?
Never mind... just found ruclips.net/video/YM2de456TSk/видео.html :P
Surely you will have uneven clamping pressure. The part needs to be nearer the centre.
Is the spindle error you talk about that it begins milling while the spindle still is ramping the rpm up? Because it really should ramp all the way up before starting operation.
I'd be curious on the "fix".. I've been manually adding delays after spindle-start for gcode created via conversational, and for Fusion360 generated code there is a dwell added after each spindle on command.
I fixed mine by enabling a DO on my VFD and modifying the ladder on my machine. When a M3 or M4 SXXXX is commanded, the controller won't acknowledge the completion of the execution of that M code until the controller sees a signal from the VFD "spindle at speed". Once that signal is acknowledged then the M3_DONE bit is enabled and the controller executes the next line of G code. This allows the spindle to completely accelerate before the machine does anything else.
supahonkey I didn't realize you could do that on a 440?
awesome!!
15:20 you should clean the vise before putting the part in
You mean just like he did with the acid brush? The keychains dont need to be precise to the tenths either.
simply because of principle
It's good pratice to do so.
spindle glitch. that sounds lethal / imagine it happens when ur power tapping
Hi John, you should really consider hitting bit higher f stop on your camera that is filming the action, the focus area is quite small as it is currently set up.
:) higher ISO will also work, there is about 0 noise in the image currently and it could have some and still look very good
I'm working on it too :)
15:30 sure looks bigger than a quarter inch end mill sir. EDIT, guess it is, nevermind.
Did it cut on the backswing at 16:00?
No, thats a keep tool down preference, just puts in a small clearance so it still will climb mill
What is the engraving tool?
Looked like the diamond drag.
niiiiiiiiiiiice!!!!!!!!!!!
you may have that bug back
Someone forgot the feedrate over ride hose. ;)
I spoke too soon. Great demo part.
Rambozo Clown Where's the video of the fail that caused him to start reminding himself to pay attention to feed rate override?
Another great video thx.
Hope this is ok...but here is a link to an awesome video series on buying a used CNC. ruclips.net/video/WH20etJpizE/видео.html
The videos are very well thought out and there are a bunch of other very informative videos on CNC set up, leveling, programming...etc Oh there is machining as well !!!