Sport Climbing on Ro Shampo at the Red River Gorge, KY
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- The Roadside Ultra Classic. I really, really wanted the onsight of this thing, though even I have to admit, it's more of a flash. End of the day ugliest ensued but even with a couple screw ups, got the job done.
So 12a? It's steep but short. There are a few bad holds but intermixed with a whole lot of very good ones. A few bouldery moves among pretty decent stances and rests.
I'm going to say yes, 12a. For staters, 12's in the Red are a breed of their own (in terms of style and difficulty). While I've been on 11's I've felt were harder, it doesn't mean that this climb just fit my style and those "harder" 11's just didn't. But more so 12a because I thought it simply "felt" like a top star 12a. It for whatever reason reminded me a lot of Narcissus ( • Sport Climbing on Narc... ) at Summersville.
But if consensus puts at 11d or 11c, I wouldn't be heartbroken. It doesn't make it any less fun of a climb. 
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That audio. Priceless. Good push man!
way to go man - you really powerexd through what looked like one overhanging pump fest - good job!!
I like the audio! It's hilarious
jeeez, nice work but wow is there enough tick marks on this thing???
gotta know where the finger wraps are!
About how many attempts does it usually take to send these routes? I always watch videos and since it’s a send video it makes my brain think everything is just on sight but I’m not sure how accurate that is. I’ve only been outside 4 times and haven’t really projected anything ever so I was just curious
Nice one! Head to NRG over memorial day weekend, I'll help you make some cool videos w/ some new angles... maybe bring the drone out.
Last minute decision has been made, heading to NRG now. Maybe I'll see you around!
+FirstPersonBeta excellent! We are at junkyard today, and fern/endless tomorrow. I just whipped off new Yosemite 15 min ago
+RocksandSharks Welcome to the club ;)
+FirstPersonBeta emailed you my cell
+FirstPersonBeta be at Fern Buttress today, starting at Star Trek and ending up at Orchard Wall for all the 5.10's
I like your videos but that thing is 11c at most.
+Chris Snyder I wouldn't argue that though I'm sure many would. Grades are a funky thing when it comes to climbing. Nothing's really concrete but they matter a lot to many people.
The grades I list I just draw straight from whatever the popular guide to the area is. With the advent of aps and Mountainproject, I've run into conflicting grading on a few climbs. The consensus grade on Ro Shampo on Mountainproject has it at 12a, the lowest proposed is 11c. The Wolverine guide makes it even more confusing, listing 12a as the grade and then in the comments mentioning the debate and its supposed 11 rating (the lowest the author has heard being 11b). Expanding on what I mentioned about it "feeling" like a top star 12a. IMO, 5 star climbs (or whatever the top star rating in the guide you're using is) tend to consistantly feel easier then what I would expect for the grade. My guess is becasue the beta is intuitive and there is little awkwardness. If that opinion is universal, should we be downgrading climbs because they're quality? As the tech gets better and the climbing gets a little easier, should everything be downgraded?
I doubt the climbing comunity will ever really settle the debate. As I mentioned, I totally wouldn't argue the 11c grade. However, I am willing to agree with what the concensus is. Where ever that may come from, who knows.
fair enough
I've been climbing in the Red for 30 years. I was there the day this route was bolted and in fact did the 3rd ascent. 1st, 2nd, myself all thought it was 11c. Only later was it upgraded by John Bronaugh only because he couldn't do it and refused to admit an 11c shut him down. Bummer...
No one cares about your comment just about as much as no one cares the old Ro grade debate. You should know as an experienced climber that grading is purely subjective. For shorter folks this climb is easily 5.12. At 6'1" I felt 11c/d was right about spot on. It's 12a consensus is the public online guide book so don't go correcting people every time someone says its 12a
You sully your achievement by complaining about the situation online to a bunch of people who don't care. It shows that you didn't do it for yourself. It shows your ego. It makes everyone take you less seriously on the matter.