Another excellent tutorial. I use the direct method for at least 60% of my work, the mesh method for perhaps 20% more; but, the other 20% is split beyween the indirect and double-indirect methods. Right now I'm doing a Glass on Glass mosaic on a 4 ft by 3ft circumference round glass vase. The design itself is extremely intricate, so I'm using the double-indirect method. It's amazing how often I find the need to use these methods on a regular basis, and for numerous applications beyond uneven tessera. I often use this method when teaching newcomers and children as it's much less intimidating (and cheaper) than starting with glueing individual pieces. That way they can concentrate on their skills in a more relaxed way, and the final substrate application and reveal always leaves them thrilled at the end of my courses. Glad to see you showing everyone how to make the glue, and enjoy the process. ☺
No grout. The riven edge of stone is a bear to grout and most often not grouted. It is a good technique if you want something flat and have materials of various thickness.
What's the longest you can wait between mortaring and removing the paper and still be able to clean up any mortar that has worked its way onto the face of the tiles? Thank you for your videos and sharing your knowledge with us!
Ultimately in this video we used a product called HydroBan, it is one of many lightweight substrates suitable for mosaics, This video explains all. Thanks for being a fan! ruclips.net/video/oKaVqfqS3sc/видео.html
Amazing. Wow I can't wait to try this.... what substrate did you use? And can thin set generally be used in place of grouting material? Oh and the glue what's the shelve life... a couple hours, a few days???
Substrate was Wediboard in the example. Yes thinset can be used in lieu of grout, or you can back grout. The flour paste is good for about 2 weeks, I refrigerate in between work sessions to avoid mold. Good luck!!
Not necessarily would you need to add sealant. Doing so may trap water and if you live in a freeze/thaw area that may create a problem over time - the water can not escape so it freezes-then thaws and may pop tiles off. Watch Kim's video "Vintage Table Top", she discusses, she is not a big fan of sealants. Thanks for being a fan!
@@tinamaruco4920 Sealant is optional. Keep in mind our mosaic making is grounded in the tile trade. For heavy-duty use, like floors, sealant makes sense. For our decorative stepping stones and wall hangings it is not a good return on investment (in my humble opinion). To properly seal anything you wipe on then you wipe off, and I mean wipe off every single tile (tessarae), if you don't the tile/glass will be dull, and the longer you wait to clean off the more difficult. Furthermore, water always finds a way. If you seal a stepping stone, or a mosaic bench and it is outside experiencing freeze-thaw I can pretty much guarantee water is getting trapped behind your tiles. The expansion/contraction cycle experience during freeze/thaw may pop off the tiles/glass. If you have concerns because it is something outside, or high traffic there are grouts on the market that have sealants and UV protectors in the mix, so it is not a separate step. Laticrete's Permacolor is just one of many amped-up grouts. If leaving artwork outside all year you must consider your substrate and adhesive as much as your grout. They must be rated for your climate. Terra-cotta, low fire ceramic and any kind of wood can not withstand freeze/thaw. There is a lot of well-meaning information out there, we all have our opinions, mine is an adaptive tile trade approach. Good luck, keep creating.
Do you mean use the flour paste to adhere your glass to your substrate, if so no! The flour paste is a temporary adhesive. This video explains all about adhesives and may provide some insights. Thanks for being a fan. ruclips.net/video/IQrQxSginUg/видео.html
The flour recipe is from Cennini's Craftsman Handbook (written in the 15th century) - glycerine, gum arabic, and borax are interchangeable. As a student I have used the honey recipe. Works just as well, but I forgot to refrigerate overnight and attracted ants! Great question, thanks. Bonnie
Hello, great video. Just one question, tho. How to grout the mosaic with this technique? The mortar fills the gaps on the front side so it looks like there is no space for grout to fit in. I would like to try your method, but I would also like to use grout because I think it leaves a better finish after it cures. How would you do it? Thank you
The sample shown in the video our mosaic materials of stone and smalti traditionally are not grouted. But you can certainly do this technique and grout, there are a few techniques, one is called back grouting. Another trick is to sprinkle dry grout in the spaces before applying the thin-set mortar adhesive on the back, when you flip and remove the paper the powder will get partially soaked by the thinset. Clean you and then go back a day later and grout the color you want, but allow the thin-set to cure out so your mosaic design remains in tact. The dry grout becomes part of the adhesive. Other alternatives, after removing the paper, while the mortar is soft, pick out some of the spaces so there is room for grout. Or color your thin-set the color you wish to grout and allow it to be the "grout". Good luck and thanks for your interest.
@@MakeitMosaics thats great, I wouldnt come into my mind to sprinkle dry grout, than add mortar on top of it. That sounds like something to try out. Thanks for the reply
A variety of materials used, to demonstrate how technique makes all relatively flat - used stone, some smalti, stained glass. Sorry I just saw your reply, my bad!
HI, can you do a reverse of this reverse method. for example if I am doing a mosaic of old china etc I can't really do it the way you have explained, I want to be able to work out my design and in theory paper over that so I could put it down as a complete piece onto a bed of cement glue etc in one go, then remove the paper when it has cured. Would this work?
I theory it could work, but the only you'll know is to do a small test. I assume this is because you want the dishes to be flat. Honestly I have never been really happy with totally flat picassette works, part of the charm is the curves and edges of the dishes. That's just me. I have had colleagues do a modified face tape method with more dimensional materials, using "Frosty" contact paper, alternative, check out the fact tape method video, may be a viable alternative. Even with that make a small test first. Good luck and thanks for being a fan.
As said in the video, when your materials are of different thicknesses and you want a flat surface, maybe a floor medallion or table top. Sorry I did not reply sooner, I just saw your note. My bad!
Another excellent tutorial. I use the direct method for at least 60% of my work, the mesh method for perhaps 20% more; but, the other 20% is split beyween the indirect and double-indirect methods. Right now I'm doing a Glass on Glass mosaic on a 4 ft by 3ft circumference round glass vase. The design itself is extremely intricate, so I'm using the double-indirect method. It's amazing how often I find the need to use these methods on a regular basis, and for numerous applications beyond uneven tessera. I often use this method when teaching newcomers and children as it's much less intimidating (and cheaper) than starting with glueing individual pieces. That way they can concentrate on their skills in a more relaxed way, and the final substrate application and reveal always leaves them thrilled at the end of my courses. Glad to see you showing everyone how to make the glue, and enjoy the process. ☺
Thank you for being a fan. I very often do indirect methods for exactly the reasons you note.
wow!! very nice!! good idea! thank you!!
Wow , amazing video with all details ❤️thank you for sharing ❤️
Thank you for Watching!
Thank you for this video! I’ve always wondered how to do this method! Seeing it versus reading, makes a huge difference in my understanding !
Thanks you for being a fan!
About to do twinset on my first try of this technique. I think I've rewatched this video about 50 times lol I'm so nervous
You got this!!
MUchas gracias.
Superb information and well explained. I appreciate all the help I can get.
Glad it was helpful!
Ok so you use mortar for this, and don't grout in between each piece? Or do you grout also? It doesn't show on your video. Thanks for the lesson.
No grout. The riven edge of stone is a bear to grout and most often not grouted. It is a good technique if you want something flat and have materials of various thickness.
What's the longest you can wait between mortaring and removing the paper and still be able to clean up any mortar that has worked its way onto the face of the tiles? Thank you for your videos and sharing your knowledge with us!
probably 12 to 24 hours, depends on exact quality of your thinset, amount of polymers (or not), humidity, etc. Good luck!
@@MakeitMosaics Thank you!
What kind of board did you glued the mosaic piece to?I never seen this technique before. Is awesome!
Ultimately in this video we used a product called HydroBan, it is one of many lightweight substrates suitable for mosaics, This video explains all. Thanks for being a fan! ruclips.net/video/oKaVqfqS3sc/видео.html
Amazing. Wow I can't wait to try this.... what substrate did you use? And can thin set generally be used in place of grouting material? Oh and the glue what's the shelve life... a couple hours, a few days???
Substrate was Wediboard in the example. Yes thinset can be used in lieu of grout, or you can back grout. The flour paste is good for about 2 weeks, I refrigerate in between work sessions to avoid mold. Good luck!!
@@MakeitMosaics Thanks for the response. Only started mosaics this year, much to learn. So really appreciate videos like this.
Can wedibiard or backer board be used outdoors in winter?
Thank you for the great instructions. If i want to place the made mosaic outside, do i need to add sealant?
Not necessarily would you need to add sealant. Doing so may trap water and if you live in a freeze/thaw area that may create a problem over time - the water can not escape so it freezes-then thaws and may pop tiles off. Watch Kim's video "Vintage Table Top", she discusses, she is not a big fan of sealants. Thanks for being a fan!
@@MakeitMosaics Thank you so much! All your videos have been great. Best mosaic help channel! Here's to my first attempt!
Then why does every utube video specifically requires sealant? I live up north plan on leaving them out all year
@@tinamaruco4920 Sealant is optional. Keep in mind our mosaic making is grounded in the tile trade. For heavy-duty use, like floors, sealant makes sense. For our decorative stepping stones and wall hangings it is not a good return on investment (in my humble opinion). To properly seal anything you wipe on then you wipe off, and I mean wipe off every single tile (tessarae), if you don't the tile/glass will be dull, and the longer you wait to clean off the more difficult. Furthermore, water always finds a way. If you seal a stepping stone, or a mosaic bench and it is outside experiencing freeze-thaw I can pretty much guarantee water is getting trapped behind your tiles. The expansion/contraction cycle experience during freeze/thaw may pop off the tiles/glass. If you have concerns because it is something outside, or high traffic there are grouts on the market that have sealants and UV protectors in the mix, so it is not a separate step. Laticrete's Permacolor is just one of many amped-up grouts. If leaving artwork outside all year you must consider your substrate and adhesive as much as your grout. They must be rated for your climate. Terra-cotta, low fire ceramic and any kind of wood can not withstand freeze/thaw. There is a lot of well-meaning information out there, we all have our opinions, mine is an adaptive tile trade approach. Good luck, keep creating.
Can we use this glue for stain glass too?
Do you mean use the flour paste to adhere your glass to your substrate, if so no! The flour paste is a temporary adhesive. This video explains all about adhesives and may provide some insights. Thanks for being a fan. ruclips.net/video/IQrQxSginUg/видео.html
Question. Why do you use glycerin and not honey?
The flour recipe is from Cennini's Craftsman Handbook (written in the 15th century) - glycerine, gum arabic, and borax are interchangeable. As a student I have used the honey recipe. Works just as well, but I forgot to refrigerate overnight and attracted ants! Great question, thanks. Bonnie
Hello, great video. Just one question, tho. How to grout the mosaic with this technique? The mortar fills the gaps on the front side so it looks like there is no space for grout to fit in. I would like to try your method, but I would also like to use grout because I think it leaves a better finish after it cures. How would you do it? Thank you
The sample shown in the video our mosaic materials of stone and smalti traditionally are not grouted. But you can certainly do this technique and grout, there are a few techniques, one is called back grouting. Another trick is to sprinkle dry grout in the spaces before applying the thin-set mortar adhesive on the back, when you flip and remove the paper the powder will get partially soaked by the thinset. Clean you and then go back a day later and grout the color you want, but allow the thin-set to cure out so your mosaic design remains in tact. The dry grout becomes part of the adhesive. Other alternatives, after removing the paper, while the mortar is soft, pick out some of the spaces so there is room for grout. Or color your thin-set the color you wish to grout and allow it to be the "grout". Good luck and thanks for your interest.
@@MakeitMosaics thats great, I wouldnt come into my mind to sprinkle dry grout, than add mortar on top of it. That sounds like something to try out. Thanks for the reply
very very nice.what material did you use to make this beautiful mosaic? thanks
A variety of materials used, to demonstrate how technique makes all relatively flat - used stone, some smalti, stained glass. Sorry I just saw your reply, my bad!
1:52
Thanks for watching!
HI, can you do a reverse of this reverse method. for example if I am doing a mosaic of old china etc I can't really do it the way you have explained, I want to be able to work out my design and in theory paper over that so I could put it down as a complete piece onto a bed of cement glue etc in one go, then remove the paper when it has cured. Would this work?
I theory it could work, but the only you'll know is to do a small test. I assume this is because you want the dishes to be flat. Honestly I have never been really happy with totally flat picassette works, part of the charm is the curves and edges of the dishes. That's just me. I have had colleagues do a modified face tape method with more dimensional materials, using "Frosty" contact paper, alternative, check out the fact tape method video, may be a viable alternative. Even with that make a small test first. Good luck and thanks for being a fan.
So it looks like with this method you don't have to grout the mosaic, correct?
Completely optional. Sorry I just saw your comment! My bad.
What is the benefit of reverse method? When we should use this method?
I think ...it will make it more flat when using different height tiles/pieces.
As said in the video, when your materials are of different thicknesses and you want a flat surface, maybe a floor medallion or table top. Sorry I did not reply sooner, I just saw your note. My bad!