LOL! I'm just curious...why would anyone bother to 'thumbs down' a fuel level sender replacement video?? Did I leave out a step? Feedback on that is MORE than welcome.
Just a suggestion, try changing the in-tank strainer (next to the fuel level float). Might help your throttle response and increase the lifespan of your fuelpump (and handpump)
I just learned about this a couple days ago! I am in the Philippines and can't seem to find a replacement so easily. Thanks very much for your attention in posting.
@@TheBlackz05 Thanks again...yeah I have that too, but no good suppliers here in the Philippines and all the ones on eBay cost more in shipping than the actual part.
I have the replacement part (aliexpress) , i have your great video, so probably today i will perform the replacement procedure. In my case the float do not send the same signal to gauge, so sometimes indicator show the real level (i suppose) and other times lower than supposed... Another question to you, if possible. Do you know which is de RPM wire or connector on pump? Sometime inhave erratic signal at idle and rpm gauge do not show properly. When i increase rpm it turns up well... I think there is bad contact or broken wire somewhere. Thanks for your great video
Hope my reply is not too late. BE SURE TO WD-40 your tank sender screws for many days before you attempt to loosen them! ;-) I have another video on the RPM gauge. Two most likely problems...the VERY thin wire inside the gauge, or MOST likely...the sensor located on the inside of the fuel pump distributor. Pardon the music in advance. It was early in my editing beginnings. ;-) ruclips.net/video/hSFtfE8Rvsc/видео.html
@@offgridislandfamily thanks a lot, i performed replacement of sender succesfully, no problem at all, and nuts took out easily. I will check your other video. Thanks!
@@offgridislandfamily probably in this case, my previous owner of the montero , took care of it (garage, road, an d not too much offroad, and not many corrosion on bolts despite the age of the car...) Working great by now
Overall big thanks! It was great to hear you talk through your problems and the subtle adjustments of OEM parts compared to orig. Granted it's my first time on your channel but I gotta say the model bits were a little uncomfortable. I couldn't tell if she was your wife or daughter or just a random person. If she want to be a car model, I would suggest leaning into the modeling aspect, but her parts felt pretty rigid and forced
Well...as they say, 'Chew the meat and spit out the bones.' If something in the video was useful, then terrific. If something was less than useful, feel free to ignore. My wife does cosplay TikTok videos and has 200,000+ followers. However, being caught off guard and asked very specific mechanical questions on video, for which she can't possibly answer, may have been somewhat embarrassing...thus, the reasonably perceived rigidity.
BEFORE breaking any bolts, I would spend a few days or a week continually soaking them in WD40. If after this, one still breaks, I would very carefully use an 'easy-out', which I have never found to be very easy.
Lazada. But, based on reading, they ALWAYS seem to get bent in transport. Be prepared to recontour the float rod. Mine still doesn't read right and I'll have to pull it again and adjust this rod. I may end up just buying a factory part so I don't have this nonsense.
I'm going to have mine replaced tomorrow on the Hyundai Galloper I have. Unfortunately, I don't have that opening from the storage space on the back. The mechanics need to take the dank down from underneath the car.
THAT'S too bad. They will then probably charge to drain the tank and stuff...at least they would in western Europe. Maybe the three door didn't get one, or it's only Mitsubishi version. Good luck with that! Thanks for watching and commenting!
greetings .. My friend change the Gasoline float like you, step by step. and I started the car but the gas level does not rise. follow the fallen needle.
Greetings back to you! Well, the first question is an obvious one, but did the float and arm move full range and freely? There is a copper arm also that sweeps across the sensor to register levels...make sure that hasn't been bent away from the surface and has no contact. If none of this, then maybe the flimsy plastic circuit board on the back of the gauge cluster. I don't think the actual fuel gauge is susceptible to failure, but that would be the last thing to check.
@@offgridislandfamily I checked and everything is fine and according to your video I did it step by step. I have little gasoline in the tank, they would more or less fill it and check if it rises. and the other a nut does not come out.
@@imeemcis Then take the fuel level sender back out of the tank. Ground the base with a jumper cable or wire to a SURE ground on the chassis and the with the wire to the gauge connected and key ON, move the float up and down with your hand and see if the gauge changes reading. Slowly and carefully, of course.
Shoot! Are there screws inside your fuel tank? You can drill and use a tap to clean the old screw threads. Use a container to catch the metal from inside the tank, holding just below the holes. Any progress since you posted?
Yeah I also broke one of the wires coming from the sender as the plug was also super stuck I've been googling for an hour trying to find out what type of plug it is with no luck. I have an aftermarket tank so sender is also in a different location (cant go via hole gotta climb under). Gonna call mechanic and maybe get it up on a hoist since im a bit over it.
@@cyclingzero2353 WOW...crap. Yeah...most of the plugs are very generic and can be sourced from several types of hardware and/or auto parts stores...but this ONE plug is very specific.
@@offgridislandfamily i saved one and snaped tow due to rust… bit half of the bolts still sticking out… so my cap is not moving around. is it fine if i just drill two new holes and fix it eith 2 self tapping screws?
Ok...so now I've had time to process the performance change. Far stronger boost and now maxes out at 1.4 instead of 1.2-1.3 and very strong to that top end. Biggest difference is IMMEDIATE boost. I only have to LOOK at the accelerator peddle and the turbo begins boosting. But, I'm going to wind the fuel screw the extra 20 degrees to a full 180. Still not enough supply at top boost.
LOL! I'm just curious...why would anyone bother to 'thumbs down' a fuel level sender replacement video?? Did I leave out a step? Feedback on that is MORE than welcome.
Just a suggestion, try changing the in-tank strainer (next to the fuel level float). Might help your throttle response and increase the lifespan of your fuelpump (and handpump)
I just learned about this a couple days ago! I am in the Philippines and can't seem to find a replacement so easily. Thanks very much for your attention in posting.
Check "mitsubishi epc data" and you might just find the part number.
@@TheBlackz05 Thanks again...yeah I have that too, but no good suppliers here in the Philippines and all the ones on eBay cost more in shipping than the actual part.
Thabks for ur videos can u make one on how to adjust the desel qantity from carborator
To have best flow of desel going into engine
This video explains it all. ;-) ruclips.net/video/n3i2_akwAiI/видео.html
I have the replacement part (aliexpress) , i have your great video, so probably today i will perform the replacement procedure. In my case the float do not send the same signal to gauge, so sometimes indicator show the real level (i suppose) and other times lower than supposed...
Another question to you, if possible. Do you know which is de RPM wire or connector on pump? Sometime inhave erratic signal at idle and rpm gauge do not show properly. When i increase rpm it turns up well... I think there is bad contact or broken wire somewhere.
Thanks for your great video
Hope my reply is not too late. BE SURE TO WD-40 your tank sender screws for many days before you attempt to loosen them! ;-)
I have another video on the RPM gauge. Two most likely problems...the VERY thin wire inside the gauge, or MOST likely...the sensor located on the inside of the fuel pump distributor.
Pardon the music in advance. It was early in my editing beginnings. ;-)
ruclips.net/video/hSFtfE8Rvsc/видео.html
@@offgridislandfamily thanks a lot, i performed replacement of sender succesfully, no problem at all, and nuts took out easily.
I will check your other video. Thanks!
@@divierteknia GLAD TO HEAR! Getting many reports of broken bolts. ;-)
@@offgridislandfamily probably in this case, my previous owner of the montero , took care of it (garage, road, an d not too much offroad, and not many corrosion on bolts despite the age of the car...) Working great by now
Will replacing the gauge may also fix the fuel warning light on the dashboard?
No. I don't think so, as the fuel level is detected by the fuel sending unit in the tank. Thanks for the question! Cheers!
Overall big thanks! It was great to hear you talk through your problems and the subtle adjustments of OEM parts compared to orig. Granted it's my first time on your channel but I gotta say the model bits were a little uncomfortable. I couldn't tell if she was your wife or daughter or just a random person. If she want to be a car model, I would suggest leaning into the modeling aspect, but her parts felt pretty rigid and forced
Well...as they say, 'Chew the meat and spit out the bones.' If something in the video was useful, then terrific. If something was less than useful, feel free to ignore. My wife does cosplay TikTok videos and has 200,000+ followers. However, being caught off guard and asked very specific mechanical questions on video, for which she can't possibly answer, may have been somewhat embarrassing...thus, the reasonably perceived rigidity.
Couldn't have come up with a better response! Well said
@@randindragonheart4558 Cheers for that.
I have a 2000 mitsubishi montero sport can you access the fuel tank sender fr under the seat ?
If you have the same NL body, then the access panel will be the same. CHEERS for watching. I'll take a look at your channel. SUB? ;-)
What is that part called next to the sender on the tank?
Happy to assist, but can you be more descriptive please?
what would u suggest if you would break any bolt?
BEFORE breaking any bolts, I would spend a few days or a week continually soaking them in WD40. If after this, one still breaks, I would very carefully use an 'easy-out', which I have never found to be very easy.
Is this the same for a 2000 montero sport xls?
Which engine? If 4m40, then yes. If 4m41 or other, then maybe.
Is it a 9seater?
On paper...with the two rear jump seats, yes. I've had 8 adults, but 4 were Filipino girls who don't take up much space.
where'd you get your fuel gauge level?
Online store. Aftermarket. Probably ok, but the Pajero sat for about two years unused.
How much new ones price?
I think it was only about $20 usd or less.
where u purchase the new sender?
Lazada. But, based on reading, they ALWAYS seem to get bent in transport. Be prepared to recontour the float rod. Mine still doesn't read right and I'll have to pull it again and adjust this rod. I may end up just buying a factory part so I don't have this nonsense.
Fahim where are you based
@@ZaheerKhan-mx8ik I'm located in trinidad & tobago, in the Caribbean.
I'm going to have mine replaced tomorrow on the Hyundai Galloper I have. Unfortunately, I don't have that opening from the storage space on the back. The mechanics need to take the dank down from underneath the car.
THAT'S too bad. They will then probably charge to drain the tank and stuff...at least they would in western Europe. Maybe the three door didn't get one, or it's only Mitsubishi version. Good luck with that! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I replaced mine like this, but it didn't work, it comes in half an hour and stops, what's the problem with that?
What do you mean 'comes in half an hour and stops'?
@offgridislandfamily The gauge gets to half and stops
greetings .. My friend change the Gasoline float like you, step by step. and I started the car but the gas level does not rise. follow the fallen needle.
Greetings back to you! Well, the first question is an obvious one, but did the float and arm move full range and freely? There is a copper arm also that sweeps across the sensor to register levels...make sure that hasn't been bent away from the surface and has no contact. If none of this, then maybe the flimsy plastic circuit board on the back of the gauge cluster. I don't think the actual fuel gauge is susceptible to failure, but that would be the last thing to check.
@@offgridislandfamily I checked and everything is fine and according to your video I did it step by step. I have little gasoline in the tank, they would more or less fill it and check if it rises. and the other a nut does not come out.
@@imeemcis Then take the fuel level sender back out of the tank. Ground the base with a jumper cable or wire to a SURE ground on the chassis and the with the wire to the gauge connected and key ON, move the float up and down with your hand and see if the gauge changes reading. Slowly and carefully, of course.
@@offgridislandfamily ok my friend I will try
I havr same issue
Easy fix!
Uggg
so 2 of my nuts/bolts felt ok coming off but after removing they are broken
Shoot! Are there screws inside your fuel tank? You can drill and use a tap to clean the old screw threads. Use a container to catch the metal from inside the tank, holding just below the holes. Any progress since you posted?
Yeah I also broke one of the wires coming from the sender as the plug was also super stuck
I've been googling for an hour trying to find out what type of plug it is with no luck.
I have an aftermarket tank so sender is also in a different location (cant go via hole gotta climb under).
Gonna call mechanic and maybe get it up on a hoist since im a bit over it.
@@cyclingzero2353 WOW...crap. Yeah...most of the plugs are very generic and can be sourced from several types of hardware and/or auto parts stores...but this ONE plug is very specific.
@@offgridislandfamily i saved one and snaped tow due to rust… bit half of the bolts still sticking out… so my cap is not moving around. is it fine if i just drill two new holes and fix it eith 2 self tapping screws?
@@vitohajtnik2867 Yes. Or epoxy small nuts on the underside of the hole, using 'steel epoxy'.
how was the extra power? 😂
jor Sian It’s amazing how much more power the engine has WITH fuel in the tank! 👍🤣
Ok...so now I've had time to process the performance change. Far stronger boost and now maxes out at 1.4 instead of 1.2-1.3 and very strong to that top end. Biggest difference is IMMEDIATE boost. I only have to LOOK at the accelerator peddle and the turbo begins boosting. But, I'm going to wind the fuel screw the extra 20 degrees to a full 180. Still not enough supply at top boost.
i think im also lacking fuel supply. but im scared modifying it hahahaha. i only played w boost control
@@luluflengchannel8114 You have a boost gauge? How many bar you getting?
@@offgridislandfamily yes i have. max boost dialed it to .9 max haha 1bar it will open the prv. haha
Who is the girl's name?
ruclips.net/channel/UCVTcza4f7ZHi2gbuv_sy4bA