Excellent! I have a 2015 F3 sport and the set up looks exactly like that after the covers are removed.... The only thing I did differently was to remove the spring first....thanks so much
That’s exactly what I tell people. Except don’t bother with the screw driver. You do more damage. Just grab the top of the lever and move it side to side and it’ll come off on it’s own. When the lever is off DO NOT operate the brake button until it is reassembled. I’ve had several units jump the gear and damage the brake switch.
And what if you take the arm off and the mechanism doesn't release or rotate to take off the parking break? You're basically assuming an electrical failure with this trick. Not all failures are electrical. If the mechanism seized, then doing this will not be a solution.
I'm from New Zealand Just priced the new electric motor for this brake on the F3 its just behind the Drivers right hand side headlight The Part alone is $976.70 NZD plus labor Its made in Taiwan
That is crazy, what usually caused the motor to stick is a tooth from the plastic gear inside gets damaged. If you remove the motor from the Spyder and get the piece out it will usually work. Low battery will also cause issues. The plastic gear becomes damage from forgetting to cancel the parking brake a few times and sticking it in gear. Something has to give.
Thanks. I’m hearing of this more frequently. I like the idea of not loosening the adjustment nuts. But won’t you need to do that when you repair/reassemble?
Yes, you'll need to return everything back in the same place but the cable will now be released. I usually put the lever back on with the bolt and washer in place, lightly tighten and put the spring in the glove box. Leaving the cable loose, this way you don't have to search for the parts. :)
Thanks Pirate, that’s really useful..........Any reason you couldn’t keep a small spring puller in your box of tricks and pop the spring off before you remove the nut? (I just have visions of the spring flying off and down the nearest drain 😉)
No, they are completely different. Brembo brake were installed on 2013 and newer Spyder models. The earlier models had other things that needed to be looked at. 2008 and a portion of the 2009 models need to be replaced due to the piston that will wear from the brake pads. Do not use aftermarket pads. You'll need the aluminum backing plates to keep wear to a minimum.
Excellent! I have a 2015 F3 sport and the set up looks exactly like that after the covers are removed....
The only thing I did differently was to remove the spring first....thanks so much
Can’t figure out how to get the cover off
That’s exactly what I tell people. Except don’t bother with the screw driver. You do more damage. Just grab the top of the lever and move it side to side and it’ll come off on it’s own. When the lever is off DO NOT operate the brake button until it is reassembled. I’ve had several units jump the gear and damage the brake switch.
And what if you take the arm off and the mechanism doesn't release or rotate to take off the parking break? You're basically assuming an electrical failure with this trick. Not all failures are electrical. If the mechanism seized, then doing this will not be a solution.
I'm from New Zealand Just priced the new electric motor for this brake on the F3 its just behind the Drivers right hand side headlight The Part alone is $976.70 NZD plus labor Its made in Taiwan
That is crazy, what usually caused the motor to stick is a tooth from the plastic gear inside gets damaged. If you remove the motor from the Spyder and get the piece out it will usually work. Low battery will also cause issues. The plastic gear becomes damage from forgetting to cancel the parking brake a few times and sticking it in gear. Something has to give.
Very useful. Thanks very much. I have subscribed. Nick J
i took my off the first week i had i already know the park had some problem .
Does this happen on the 2020 and 21 models as well? Figure if it happens on the earlier models they should have a fix. Thanks for the info good video
Thanks. I’m hearing of this more frequently. I like the idea of not loosening the adjustment nuts. But won’t you need to do that when you repair/reassemble?
Yes, you'll need to return everything back in the same place but the cable will now be released. I usually put the lever back on with the bolt and washer in place, lightly tighten and put the spring in the glove box. Leaving the cable loose, this way you don't have to search for the parts. :)
Yes, but this is just a quick way to get the brake released.
Thanks Pirate, that’s really useful..........Any reason you couldn’t keep a small spring puller in your box of tricks and pop the spring off before you remove the nut? (I just have visions of the spring flying off and down the nearest drain 😉)
You can if you like, hopefully you have a pair of riding gloves and can lightly put your hand on it as you release. :)
if it continues to stick, what is the repair. My 2014 RSS looks just like that but is mechanical.
What did you have to do?
I have a 2018f3s with it sticking…
682.500.9843
@@KevinScottMaines963 replaced the return spring.
Are the rear brake calipers the same from 2008 to 2012?
No, they are completely different. Brembo brake were installed on 2013 and newer Spyder models. The earlier models had other things that needed to be looked at. 2008 and a portion of the 2009 models need to be replaced due to the piston that will wear from the brake pads. Do not use aftermarket pads. You'll need the aluminum backing plates to keep wear to a minimum.
@PiratePowersports Thank you very much for the info